The South of France-East Half Part 27

_Coaches._--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6 m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., for La Crau 4 m.

N. (see p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32 m. E., whence a steamer sails to St. Raphael. Near the "Place," opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see maps, pp. 123 and 129).

[Headnote: Ma.s.sILLON.]

+Hyeres proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the princ.i.p.al thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the princ.i.p.al gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R. Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Ma.s.sillon, containing the fish-market, a bust of Ma.s.sillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hotel de Ville. Standing with the face towards the Hotel de Ville, we have to the left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No. 7, where Ma.s.sillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- "Father, I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself." The language of Ma.s.sillon, though n.o.ble, was simple, and always natural and just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii.

14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopia, which still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article "Eloquence" in the _Encyclopedie_ as an example presenting "_la figure la plus hardie, et l'un des plus beaux traits d'eloquence qu'on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes_." His father, who spelt his name Ma.s.seilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834.

[Headnote: ST. PAUL.]

Above the "Place" is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to the church is an ancient baptismal font.

[Headnote: ST. LOUIS.]

At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la Republique, is the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The quadripart.i.te vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies.

The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall.

Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3 children on the beach of Hyeres (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this square, the Place de la Republique, represents Charles of Anjou and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyeres. At the western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in 1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyeres are numerous nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the "Jardin d'Acclimatation," where animals, birds, and plants are reared for the Jardin d'Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.

[Headnote: COSTEBELLE.]

From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the Costebelle, about 2 m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux.

The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel of Notre Dame d'Hyeres, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are old olive trees.

[Headnote: CHaTEAU.]

THE CHaTEAU OF HYeRES.

On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Chateau of Hyeres+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hotel de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called _Castrum araearum_ or _araeis_, "air-castle." Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the Hotel des Iles d'Or.

The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. long.

On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d'Hyeres, and the Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain, are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt.

Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the Pointe de la Galere, with Fort Bregancon. From this fort, northwards by the beach, are the chateaux of Bregancon and Leoubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123 and 129.)

[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET.]

Behind Hyeres Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the execution of malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the east end of Hyeres, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is a favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from the castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.

+Excursion to Mont Fenouillet.+--Behind the castle ramify three paths.

The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left, called the "Chemin St. Bernard," leads down to the west end of Hyeres, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt.

Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutus unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt.

Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down to the road between Hyeres and Toulon.

[Headnote: THE TROU DES FeES.]

+Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux.+--The best way is to take the path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyeres on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.

+The Trou des Fees.+--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.

side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fees. The entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, covered with stalact.i.tes, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle road pa.s.ses near one of the princ.i.p.al springs which supply the town. The other source is in the plain, on the road "du Pere-Eternel," nearly 2 m.

S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. This water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E., through the gravelly soil of the plain.

To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the "cha.s.seurs" at such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.

[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING.]

The princ.i.p.al agricultural products of Hyeres, as indeed of all the Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state, and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12 Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22. The cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyeres, and nearly all the trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL CATERPILLAR. PIPES.] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision.

On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages.

In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption of the French word _bruyere_, signifying heath.

The "specialite" of Hyeres is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries, peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the surface, there is always abundance of water.

[Headnote: b.u.t.tERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYeRES.]

"About Hyeres are many rare b.u.t.terflies. Among the best is the Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most abundantly at Hyeres. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September, many of the latter generation living through the winter.

Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betulae, the Argynnis Pandora, the A. Niobe, the A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the S.

Fidia, the S. Phaedra, the S. Cordula, the S. Actoae, the S. Semele, and the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer."

--_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyeres._

+Climate.+--Hyeres is especially fitted for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened const.i.tutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyeres is not suited. "The chief attractions of Hyeres are its climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed." --_Dr.

Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47.4 F., and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore the chances are that the traveller's experience will not agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate of Hyeres is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice; and, "generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that disease."

[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHaTEAU.]

THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYeRES AND LES SALINS.

The railway from La Pauline and Hyeres to Les Salins extends 11 m.

south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p. 129).

8 m. S. from La Pauline, and 2 m. S. from Hyeres, is the station for La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.

At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3 m. S., with the mainland. The large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyeres are obtained on the way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le Chateau+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quant.i.ties of uni- and bivalve sh.e.l.ls are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks.

From Le Chateau a road leads westward to the small fis.h.i.+ng hamlet of La Madrague, pa.s.sing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the semaph.o.r.e or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can be had on the isthmus.

After La Plage station the train, having pa.s.sed the sea-bathing station of Cape (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at

[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA.]

+Les Salins+, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyeres by rail. The omnibus from Hyeres to Salins stops at the small "Place" opposite the pier.

Fare, fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training s.h.i.+ps anch.o.r.ed in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of sea-water princ.i.p.ally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value of 10,000. It is very coa.r.s.e grained, but is much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p. 129).

+Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6 m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the commencement of the small neck of land where pa.s.sengers for the peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, pa.s.sing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the little port is about m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d'Italie halts at the port, but pa.s.ses through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3 warmer than Hyeres.

[Headnote: BORMES.]

+Coach to Bormes+, 14 m. E. from Hyeres. The coach, after pa.s.sing the ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7 m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Bregancon. In the Place de la Republique or St.

Francois is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to Collobrieres, 14 m. N. On the other side of the "Place" is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes.

Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, pa.s.sing six small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour's easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fis.h.i.+ng village on the coast road from Bregancon to St. Tropez.

Savoury "langousts" or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map, p. 123).