The South of France-East Half Part 31

eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the "Imperial." Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m.

The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the omnibus halts.

[Headnote: VENCE.]

+Vence+, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or, pension 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and in cl.u.s.ters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its old walls and ramparts, with ma.s.sive square towers (11th cent.) next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no s.p.a.ce. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated.

The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, 68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with ma.s.sive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present "Place" behind the chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing c.o.c.ks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th cent.

[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR.]

To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea.

The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the +Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes of the p.r.i.c.kly broom. The next hill is the Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the Cagnes, a "foux," an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3 m. from Vence.

The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1 to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d.

the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2d. the kilo.

[Headnote: CAGNES.]

The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole way, pa.s.sing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop.

1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes.

_Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Doree, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see p. 169.)

ST. VALLIER.

+Gra.s.se to Digne+, 63 m. north.--By the courrier 16 frs., changing coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2 frs., Escragnolles 4 frs., Castellane 8 frs., Barreme 11 frs., and Digne 16 frs. By private coach from Gra.s.se, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at Escragnolles, and pa.s.sing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting at Barreme, and then driving down to Digne (see map, p. 165).

The road between Gra.s.se and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Gra.s.se to St. Vallier (2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Gra.s.se, and 6 m. distant, population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand views of Cannes, the sea, and the Esterel and the Tanneron mountains.

The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the "Place," near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., indicating the spot where he reposed "2 Mars 1815." The Hotel du Nord is about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the Ponte-a-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3 m., costs 5 frs. The remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Gra.s.se to St.

Vallier, and towards the Pont-a-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-a-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge, like the "Pont" across the Ardeche.

From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Gra.s.se.

A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, one of the princ.i.p.al sources of the river Siagne. The views from Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.

[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE.]

19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37 from Gra.s.se, is +Castellane+, 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect.

Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here.

A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather.

18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to +Taulanne+, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620, among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river a.s.se. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to 1242.

[Headnote: BARReME. DIGNE.]

44 m. N.W. from Gra.s.se, and 18 m. S. from Digne, is +Barreme+, pop.

1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the a.s.se. Breakfast is taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road from Barreme to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the a.s.se and the Clumane.

+Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80 m. N. from Ma.r.s.eilles, 62 m. N. from Aix, and 20 m. N. from Manosque. It is 109 m. S. from Gren.o.ble; 45 m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap; and 31 m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see map of Rhone and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the Boulevard Ga.s.sendi, near the statue of Pierre Ga.s.sendi (1592-1655), one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from the Bleonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1 m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115 Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism.

Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p. 165).

[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS.]

Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is to +Riez+, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4 hrs., a great diligence centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St.

Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22 m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Greoulx (see p. 167), 12 m. S.W. from Riez, and 9 m. E. from Manosque, fare 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), 9 m. E., by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18 m. S., by Quinson.

Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9 m. E., _Inn:_ H. du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d'Or, 9 m. S., whence other coaches run to Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7 m. W., whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25 m. N., by Puymoisson, 3 m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Es...o...b..on, 11 m.; Mezel on the a.s.se, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15 m.; and Chateauredon, 7 m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and cherries (see map, p. 165).

Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.

[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE.]

A very pleasant drive of 9 m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronne. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the "Via Crucis," is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a square belfry in three diminis.h.i.+ng stages. Between Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between them.

[Headnote: BATHS OF GReOULX.]

12 m. W. from Riez, and 9 m. E. from Manosque, is +Greoulx+, pop.

1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, fr. Or the lowest price per day, 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt new milk. Temp. 95 to 100 Fahr. The princ.i.p.al ingredient is the chloride of soda, and, in less quant.i.ties, the chloride of magnesia, the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Greoulx to Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165).

[Headnote: MANOSQUE.]

+Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Ma.r.s.eilles and Gren.o.ble, 22 m. north from Pertuis, 41 m. from Aix, 48 m. from Gardanne, and 59 m. from Ma.r.s.eilles. 4 m. south from Volx, 20 m. from St. Auban, 31 m. from Sisteron, 61 m. from Veynes, 66 m. from Aspres, and 130 m. from Gren.o.ble (see map of Rhone and Savoy).

_Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste.

Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and badly-paved princ.i.p.al street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the facade are circular, the others small and round-headed with modern gla.s.s. On each side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is extremely shallow, the roof 4 part.i.te, and the floor considerably lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the facade leads to the princ.i.p.al "Place," where there is a fountain, and whence there is a good view. Higher up the princ.i.p.al street is Notre Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hotel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of Gerard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the baths of Greoulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m.

W., by Reillane 15 m., and Cereste 20 m. W. +Volx+ station is the intended terminus of the rail from Apt.

[Headnote: VALLAURIS.]

miles from Ma.r.s.eILLES miles to MENTON

{124}{31} +GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station is a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined with villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms.

[Headnote: ANTIBES.]

{127}{28} +ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d'Or. A fortified port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their valour. Those wis.h.i.+ng a bird's-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church. The bellman's house is close by. The wine of Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 154). From Antibes station omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.

{132}{23} +VENCE-CAGNES.+ At this station coaches await pa.s.sengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the same road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice runs a diligence (see p. 165).

{136}{19} +VAR.+ This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. m. N.W. from the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pepinieres, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments.

At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in January.

NICE

is 140 m. N.E. from Ma.r.s.eilles, 95 m. N.E. from Toulon, 95 m. N.E.

from Hyeres, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19 m. N.E. from Cannes.

It is 9 m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23 m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf).