The South of France-East Half Part 32

Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.

[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]

Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the order of east to west. The Hotel des Anglais, with one side to the "Jardin Public." Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Mediterranee; and opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of the cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18 frs.; the H. Mediterranee, H. Westminster, and the H. West End, all first-cla.s.s houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day.

The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the sea so much. The H. de l'Elysee, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11 frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8 to 12 frs.

Around the "Jardin Public" are the first-cla.s.s houses, the Angleterre and the Bretagne. On the Quai Ma.s.sena the H. de France; while in the Place Ma.s.sena are the best cafes and restaurants, large cab-stands, and the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Ma.s.sena is the Casino Munic.i.p.al, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden in the Square Ma.s.sena. These hotels are first-cla.s.s, and charge from 10 to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-cla.s.s house, frequented chiefly by French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.

On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Ma.s.sena towards the railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meubles, Deux Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Amba.s.sadeurs with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10 to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 frs., and the Hotel des Alpes.

In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H. Iles Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 frs.

[Map: Nice]

Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et P. de Geneve. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvetique. Near it the H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St.

Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.

At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens.

Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.

From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the Theatre Francais. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the H. Negociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the first-cla.s.s houses--the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d'Orient. The large building in the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion.

The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B. Dubouchage, and about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the first-cla.s.s houses--the H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence in a garden off the B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church, and near it the Hotel Carabacel.

On the way up to Cimies, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimies Hill, near the Convent of St. Barthelemy, is the H. et P. *Barthelemy, on the road to the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimies Hill, on opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P. Cimies, and the Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about 2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Ma.s.sena has its terminus near the P. Barthelemy. The H. Cimies has its own omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the P. Anglaise.

In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and its continuation the R. Ma.s.sena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, in garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At No. 121 is the H. de l'Elysee, with front to the Promenade des Anglais.

At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; and opposite, the H. du Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Ma.s.sena the H. St. Andre, 8 frs.

In the Place Ma.s.sena the H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial gentlemen the best is the H. des etrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.

Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings.

In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where they can arrange at the prices given:--H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11 frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H.

des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P.

de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P.

*Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Ma.s.sena the H. St. Andre, 8 frs., including everything. In the R. Gioffredo the H. and R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs.

[Headnote: CAFeS. BANKS.]

_Cafes._--The best in the Place Ma.s.sena. _Restaurants._--The *London House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Francaise, 3 Av. de la Gare, and at No. 11 Rest. d'Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._--The Cercle de la Mediterranee in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Ma.s.sena, Quai St. Jean.

_Banks._--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds of banking business and money changing is the "Credit Lyonnais," 15 Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Ma.s.sena; Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Ma.s.sena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.

_House Agents._--John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C. Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple.

_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. Francois de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi.

Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000 volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P.M. It contains a few antiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.

_Booksellers._--Galignani, 15 Quai Ma.s.sena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook's office adjoins Galignani's. Gaze's is at No. 13, and Caygill's No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.

_Druggists._--Of these there are excellent English establishments in the princ.i.p.al streets.

_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._--Of the confections the _specialite_ of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3 oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3 oz.), strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All the others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are-- *Caetan Fea, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and *Escoffier, in the Place Ma.s.sena. Rimmel's garden and perfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon.

[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]

_Churches._--Temple evangelique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity Church, Rue de France; St. Michael's, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.

Steamers to Ma.r.s.eilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.

_Coach hire._--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month.

_Cabs._--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2 frs.; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1 fr.; the hour, 3 frs.

To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats for 4, 1 fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c., and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to engage the cab by the hour.

All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Ma.s.sena.

[Headnote: CONTES.]

_Diligences._--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m.

N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see p. 180). Coach to Puget-Theniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare 2 frs., time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. Sauveur, 40 m. N. (p. 182).

Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low Corniche road. From the office, Place St. Francois, start:--Coach to Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N.

from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hotel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15 m. N. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d'Or, Rue de l'Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1 fr., time 2 hrs., 10 m. N.

up the valley of the Paillon, pa.s.sing the pretty village of Trinite--Victor, 5 m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2 hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the village Chateauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Trinite-Victor and back, 5 frs.; hour's rest allowed.

[Headnote: CLIMATE.]

_Climate._--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice a trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M. Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty years' meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:--

MEAN TEMPERATURE.

Nice. Cannes.

November 53.8 52.6 December 48.5 46.3 January 47.1 48 February 46.2 48.8 March 51.8 51 April 58.1 55.5

The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.--_Health Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D.

[Headnote: VALLONS.]

Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to be almost impa.s.sable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made.

The Mantega Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantega (see plan), has great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar.

The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new or fas.h.i.+onable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and "pensions;" 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and running up the sides of the Chateau hill, which separates it from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour.

During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled together between the Paillon and the Chateau hill.

[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY.]