The South of France-East Half Part 7

THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.

+Paris to Lyons, Ma.r.s.eilles, Hyeres, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+

+PART I.--PARIS TO Ma.r.s.eILLES.+

BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles.

Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For "London to Ma.r.s.eilles," see under that head in the "Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway." Through tickets sold at their London office.

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{ }{537} +PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris a Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station.

Opposite the station is the H. de l'Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules Cesar.

_Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map page 26. The fare, third cla.s.s, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Ma.r.s.eilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is 2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Ma.r.s.eilles a train starts at 6.35 A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts for Hyeres at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-cla.s.s carriages between Paris and Ma.r.s.eilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to Hyeres, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyeres (2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train pa.s.ses the most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. By the first cla.s.s the whole journey from Paris to Hyeres can be done in 18 hours for 4:13:6.

The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay 60 the year. +St.

Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Chateau d'Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of gra.s.ses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the +Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some time.

[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.]

9 m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop.

1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yeres, a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3 m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yeres, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of Henri IV.

On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas Boileau Despreaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English literature.

[Headnote: MELUN.]

13 m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the Yeres viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104 ft. high. 28 m. S.

from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000.

_Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St.

Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. eglise Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Caesar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.

Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the church is the princ.i.p.al prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a b.u.t.tressed square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire.

In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 windows with valuable old gla.s.s. A few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, "Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue francaise au 16me siecle." Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry St. Barthelemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.

[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.]

{37}{500} +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; but omnibuses await pa.s.sengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d'Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirene.

The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller's with maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good confectioner's shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes' walk.

Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.

_Coach Tariff._--The princ.i.p.al cab-stand is at the end of the Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1 fr., of the forest in the shop opposite.

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 frs. for the day.

Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following prices:--

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.

A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.

A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an hour.

Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.

+Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing s.p.a.cious courts, each bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.

The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of the rooms on the left side of the "Cour des Adieux," or "du Cheval Blanc," which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not obligatory.

To see the "appartements reserves" an especial order is requisite, procured by letter addressed to "M. Le Commandant des Chateaux." The "appartements reserves" comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.

The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by Francis I., who commenced by demolis.h.i.+ng the whole of the former edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists.

Henri IV., who spent 100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended 250,000 upon it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.

[Headnote: ENTRANCE.]

The +princ.i.p.al entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his wretchedness.

As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the following abridged list should be read before entering.

[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITe.]

The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinite+, built by Francis I. in 1529, and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish amba.s.sador having remarked that "the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty." Louis XI. was married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was p.r.o.nounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by Freminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Medicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St.

Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon.

[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.]

Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785.

Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Halle. Pa.s.s now through a small pa.s.sage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate gla.s.s, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+, containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons.

Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from Francois I. and +Henri IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circ.u.mference, one piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis XIII. The l.u.s.tre of rock crystal is valued at 2000.

[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.]

APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthelemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amelie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riesener. Clock of Louis XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthelemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Pet.i.t Salon, from which a door opens into the

GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliotheque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was a.s.sa.s.sinated on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, and, while praying G.o.d for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour.

Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E.

from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina's chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she replied with petulance, "that she could not, and that many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this coward."

At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the G.o.ddess Diana.

[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS AND DES GARDES.]

We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Cha.s.ses, not shown (see page 8). The other leads into