The South of France-East Half Part 8

LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des +Tap.i.s.series+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth 600, gift to the Empress Eugenie.

+Salon de Francois I.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fres...o...b.. Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry.

+Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-gla.s.s, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de Medicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp.

Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777.

Salle des +Gardes+, princ.i.p.ally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the

ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV., was originally the Chambre de la d.u.c.h.esse d'Etampes. The frescoes, representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo dell' Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.

GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fetes. The most magnificent hall in the palace, s.h.i.+ning with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by Francois I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the

GALERIE DE FRANcOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.

Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect.

The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of Francois I.

From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the

APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited by Catherine de Medicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as the G.o.ddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio's best works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather.

Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+ Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+ (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David.

Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riesener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d'Attente. Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.

+Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.

Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.

GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des a.s.siettes. All the pictures in this gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading to the

SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.

[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.]

LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.

+Chapelle Ba.s.se de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas a Becket in 1169. The painted gla.s.s of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed ma.s.s during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.

Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle a Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.

Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed.

It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6).

Appartements des Cha.s.ses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by J. B. Oudry.

Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the n.o.ble pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7).

The Musee Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.

THE COURTS.

From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side facing the lake is the Galerie de Francois I. Having pa.s.sed through the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left the +Porte Doree+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539.

And by this portal the d.u.c.h.esse d'Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pa.s.s the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow b.u.t.tresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Doree is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The princ.i.p.al entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.

At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d'Armes, connected with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.

[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.]

Excursions into the forest. Those wis.h.i.+ng to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compa.s.s and a copy of the plan of the Foret de Fontainebleau, 1 fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction.

The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three princ.i.p.al drives, each requiring 6 hours:--

1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle Vue--Barbison par le Bas Breau--Gorges d'Apremont et Franchard.

2. Vallee du Nid de l'Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d'Augas--Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort l'Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa.

3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare aux Fees--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd.

Maitre.

The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2 m. W. The second contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially from the Fort de l'Empereur, about 2 m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3 m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3 m. by rail from Fontainebleau.

After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous grape, the Cha.s.selas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and trellis-work.

[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{42}{495} +MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: ecu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is princ.i.p.ally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th.

7 m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.

Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town.

_Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office.

Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville.

Montereau has important potteries.

[Headnote: SENS.]

{71}{466} +SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; ecu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thenard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of the d.u.c.h.ess of Angouleme, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are s.p.a.cious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable walks.

[Headnote: THOMAS a BECKET.]

The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The facade, though not without beauty, is heavy and ma.s.sive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with ma.s.sive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on cl.u.s.tered colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his a.s.sa.s.sination. He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied by the Surs de l'Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by superb gla.s.s; but the best window is the second to the right on entering from the facade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a gla.s.s case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple worn by Thomas a Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St.

Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon.

Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialite, restored by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings that existed in Becket's time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was a.s.sa.s.sinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom.

Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour.

[Headnote: TROYES.]

41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l'Etat is TROYES, pop.

39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the princ.i.p.al street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hotel de Ville, the Hotel des Couriers.

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.]

Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, ca.n.a.lised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These ca.n.a.ls move the machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St.