The South of France-East Half Part 9

Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these intermediate epochs. The fine western facade belongs to the 16th century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th.

Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising above the western facade. The building is 352 feet long, and the transept 154 feet. Two s.p.a.cious aisles run up each side of the nave, separated by cl.u.s.tered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted gla.s.s windows. The height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The gla.s.s of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V.

of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI.

should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest gla.s.s in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes.

Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul's Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.; [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the sacristy. The gla.s.s in the windows of the church is of the 16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture, the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler.

A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de l'Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel "O Sacrum Convivium,"

are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pa.s.s up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent jube, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hotel Mulet. To the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.

[Map: Troyes]

Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups.

The gla.s.s of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.

South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.

Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1 mile northwards from the barracks of the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and church of St. Andre, of which the princ.i.p.al feature is the west portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by Gentil.

Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.

[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.]

The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city.

Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814.

[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{79}{458} +VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man "au masque de Fer" spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or 84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent.

{91}{446} +JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne, which is the princ.i.p.al promenade. The most important part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St. Andre, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St. Thibault, 15th cent.

{96}{441} +LA ROCHE+, on the Ca.n.a.l de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armancon and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79 m. southwards, pa.s.sing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)

[Headnote: AUXERRE.]

LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.

12 m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill rising from the river; Hotel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.

transepts, contain superb gla.s.s set in light flamboyant tracery.

Adjoining is the Prefecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.

Near the Hotel de l'epe is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the capitals of the fascicled columns, and the gla.s.s of the windows around the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the princ.i.p.al walk is a statue of Marechal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)

13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hotel Lion d'Or, on the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdesir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty flavour.

Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hotel de l'Esperance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)

[Headnote: SERMIZELLES.]

37 miles from La Roche, 14 miles from Cravant, and 42 miles from Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6 miles distant), for which a coach awaits pa.s.sengers. Fare, 1 fr. At the station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hotel de la Gare, where a private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pere; then back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.

[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.]

+Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hotel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying b.u.t.tresses. The doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a s.p.a.cious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate the n.o.ble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing from ma.s.sive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was formerly the "salle capitulaire," built in the 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir.

Near the abbey church is St. Martin's, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas a Becket celebrated ma.s.s in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he p.r.o.nounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under Richard Cur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.

1 m. from Vezelay is St. Pere, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St.

Pere is the Chateau Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.

[Headnote: SEMUR.]

9 m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St.

Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits pa.s.sengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hotel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Foret de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.

After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12 from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop.

4150. _Hotels:_ Cote d'Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armancon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old gla.s.s; the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16 feet high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. 12 miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map page 1.)

[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{107}{429} +SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In town, H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, pa.s.sing within a mile of Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road separates from the Chablis road.

Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The windows contain 15th and 16th cent. gla.s.s, repaired with modern pieces.

The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.

At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hotel St. eloi, but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W., stopping at a cafe near the station. The greater part of the church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty ma.s.sive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund.

Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to Sens.

[Headnote: TONNERRE.]

{123}{414} +TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armancon. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or; Courriers-- both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d'Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d'Or leads down to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondiss.e.m.e.nt of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.

[Headnote: TANLAY.]

{127}{409} +TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armancon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast facade is flanked by two wings. The princ.i.p.al court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the G.o.ds of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the political and religious events of that period.

Catherine de Medicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Conde as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces is 12 feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.

[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.]

{136}{401} +ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built according to the plans of Primaticcio.