The Old Pike Part 28

Boss Rush commenced his career as a tavern keeper in the old house at this point, and it was kept at various times by such well known men as Wm. S. Gaither, German D. Hair, Wm. Dillon, Morris Mauler, John Rush, John Foster and David Ogg. It was essentially a wagon stand, and night after night, in the prosperous era of the road, the ground all around it was crowded with big wagons and teams, and the old bar room rang out with the songs and jokes of the jolly wagoner. Opposite the house a large water-trough was erected, kept full and overflowing from a spring near by, called "The Monroe Spring," in honor of President Monroe. When McKinney kept this house President Monroe pa.s.sed along the road, and a public dinner was given him here. John Hagan, then a contractor on the original construction of the road, was prominently connected with the bestowal of this compliment upon the old-time President. The few old folks who have personal recollections of this event, speak of it as a memorable and exciting occasion. The dinner was substantial and superb, and highly enjoyed by all partic.i.p.ating, including the ill.u.s.trious guest. John Hagan was the father of Robert Hagan, esq., ex-commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HON. SAMUEL s.h.i.+PLEY.]

One of the old stone toll houses stood a short distance east of the Monroe Springs, and remained until 1893, when it was torn down. Hiram Seaton was one of the early collectors at this point. He was the father of [R]C. S. Seaton, the well known banker of Uniontown. He subsequently served two terms as County Treasurer. He had a wooden leg, and was esteemed as an honest man. He went west, settled in Missouri, and died there. He was succeeded as toll collector by Robert McDowell, always thereafter called "Gate Bob," to distinguish him from a number of other well known citizens bearing the same name. Robert McDowell was also an honest man, a popular man and a fighting man. He was tall, thin and muscular. His fingers were distorted by rheumatism, but he could use them in a fight with terrible effect. He was the Democratic candidate for county commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, in 1854, but beaten by the Know Nothings. He died a few years ago at Dunbar, very greatly lamented. The memory of "Gate Bob" will long remain fresh in the recollection of the pike boys, old and young.

[Footnote R: Now dead.]

The next old tavern stand is the "Braddock's Run House." Gen. Braddock was buried near this house, a day or two after his disastrous defeat by the French and Indians, at Braddock's Field, near Pittsburg. The exact spot where he was buried is still pointed out, and can be seen from the road. This circ.u.mstance gave name to the brook here, and the tavern. The house was built by Charles McKinney, the same person who built the "Monroe Springs House." He kept tavern here for many years. The house is a large two-story stone structure. It was subsequently and successively kept by Robert Shaw, n.o.ble McCormick and William Shaw. This property is now owned by the heirs of James Dixon, and is not a public house.

Next we come to the "Fayette Springs Hotel," a large stone house built at an early day by the Hon. Andrew Stewart, who owned the property, and remained its owner until the day of his death. It was recently sold by his heirs to Capt. John Messmore, of Uniontown. This house was a favorite resort for visitors to the Fayette Springs, situate about three-quarters of a mile distant. In its halcyon days it had its ten-pin alley, billiard tables, swing, and other appliances of pleasure and comfort, but they have all pa.s.sed away, and probably by reason of hard times, and the abatement of interest in the Springs may never again be brought into requisition. Here merry parties of young folks from Uniontown and elsewhere were accustomed to a.s.semble and enjoy a hearty supper, engage in the dizzy mazes of the dance, and when it was all over "go home with the girls in the morning." Mahlon Fell and Tom Collins were the old-time fiddlers, and furnished the music, which in its line was of superior excellence. They were occasionally reinforced by Jacob B. Miller, esq., who tendered his services without pecuniary reward, and in the language of the day, "could make a fiddle talk." Collins is dead.

[S]Fell and Miller are both living. The former has joined the church and abandoned the fiddle, while the latter still retains his taste and talent for music, and often entertains his friends in a private manner, with many of the popular tunes of the olden time. The "Fayette Springs House" has been kept in turn by Cuthbert Wiggins, John Risler, B. W.

Earl, Samuel Lewis, William Snyder, William Darlington, John Rush, Major Swearingen, Redding Bunting, Cuthbert Downer, and perhaps others.

[Footnote S: All now dead.]

We next reach "Chalk Hill," so called from the circ.u.mstance of white clay adhering to the shovels of the workmen engaged in digging the foundation of the road. The tavern house was built here in 1823 by Jonathan Downer, who was its first host. He was succeeded by Boss Rush, and he in turn by Springer Downer, Samuel s.h.i.+pley, William s.h.i.+pley and Milford s.h.i.+pley. [T]John Olwine now owns the property, and keeps tavern here. It is a two-story frame, with commodious stabling attached. Boss Rush went from this house to Farmington. Samuel s.h.i.+pley bought this property at an Orphans' Court sale, in 1846, for $1,405, and paid for it in gold. Westley Frost was the sheriff and trustee to sell. s.h.i.+pley subsequently became an a.s.sociate judge. He was more fortunate than his neighbor and fellow inn keeper, Boss Rush, in belonging to the strong side. Rush was one of his compet.i.tors on the Republican side.

[Footnote T: Now dead.]

Next comes the old tavern stand of James Snyder. Snyder seems to have been here always, and is here yet. He did vacate a short time for William Shaw, but not long enough to change the tradition that this is, and always was, Snyder's. The house looks old and dingy, and no wonder, for it has withstood the wild dashes of numberless mountain storms. It is situate at the foot of the eastern slope of Laurel Hill, and on the head waters of Sandy Creek. The old stable is decaying, and will soon be gone. The old host, too, is showing the marks of time and age. He has already pa.s.sed beyond the age defined by the Psalmist. His three score and ten are supplemented by well nigh half a score.[U] He is the only old landmark left along the road, that has not s.h.i.+fted from original ground, except Natty Brownfield. A few years ago he was elected county commissioner on the Democratic ticket, but practically without opposition. He is universally esteemed for his honesty. As a tavern keeper he enjoyed an excellent reputation, and many a weary traveler has found consolation and comfort under his hospitable roof. The best wishes of all his neighbors attend the old gentleman in his declining years, and heaven's choicest blessings are invoked upon his venerable head.

[Footnote U: Now deceased.]

Near the top of Laurel Hill on the eastern slope, once lived a noted character named Benjamin Price. His house, a log structure, was built near the roadside, but below its surface, so that the upper story was about on a level with the road. He kept a cake shop, was an acting justice of the peace, and a strict Methodist, and was in the habit of annoying wagoners and hog drovers by fining them for swearing, and they in turn annoyed him by throwing billets of wood and disabled hogs down his chimney. Price is long since dead, and the last vestige of his old house has disappeared. The stable nearby it remained longer, but it has gone, too. A few apple trees planted by the hands of the 'Squire, now encroached upon by the mountain undergrowth, are all that remain to indicate the spot where the old house stood.

[Ill.u.s.tration: STONE HOUSE, DARLINGTON'S.]

We next reach the "Summit House." This is not a wagon stand, nor strictly an old tavern, but rather a fas.h.i.+onable and popular summer resort. It is on the apex of Laurel Hill, and has the advantage of pure air, and an extensive and charming view of the surrounding and underlying country. At this point large finger boards were erected, indicating distances and routes to the Was.h.i.+ngton Springs, Dulaney's Cave and Jumonville's Grave, which are landmarks indelibly impressed upon the memories of surviving wagoners and stage drivers. The property here belongs to [V]Col. Samuel Evans, a wealthy and well known citizen of Fayette county. [W]Ephraim McClean kept the house here for many years, and made it famous by the excellence and style of his entertainment. His flannel cakes and spring chickens have pa.s.sed into history, as unrivalled productions of culinary art and tempters of the appet.i.te. There is a large spring and bath house here. This has ever been a favorite resort of parties in pursuit of pleasure. Here the youth, beauty and fas.h.i.+on of Uniontown were wont to come to while away an evening in eating, dancing and other diversions. The rooms were small, but the pleasure was unbounded. Here also the yeomanry of the county came to make a harvest home, or celebrate an anniversary. The drive, up and down the mountain, is delightful, and formed no small share of the pleasure incident to the old time parties at this popular place of resort.

[Footnote V: Deceased.]

[Footnote W: Deceased.]

Ephraim McClean left this house many years ago and settled in Illinois.

He was succeeded by Henry Clay Rush, who maintained the reputation of the house during his occupancy, but left it in 1856 to go to Searights.

Brown Hadden came in after Rush, and after Hadden the house was successively kept by Stephen W. Snyder, John Snyder, William Boyd and Webb Barnet, the present occupant. Anterior to the erection of the present buildings, and many years ago, one Molly Calhoun kept a small cake shop at this point, and displayed upon her sign-board the following quaint legend:

"Out of this rock, runs water clear, 'Tis soon changed into good beer, Stop, traveler, stop, if you see fit, And quench your thirst for a fippennybit."

About a mile down the western slope of Laurel Hill we come to the famous watering trough. Here William Downard lived for many years in a stone house built against the hillside. He did not keep a tavern, for he had no ground for teams to stand upon, and no stabling that was accessible, but he always maintained the big water-trough in good condition _pro bono publico_, and it would be almost impossible for big teams to make the ascent of Laurel Hill, in hot weather without water. Downard was eccentric and cross, and begrudged the use of his water to persons he did not like, although the supply was inexhaustible. He was born near Uniontown of English parentage, a Federalist in politics, and a skeptic in religion. He was endowed with strong sense, and could argue with considerable force. He has been dead many years.

A little over a mile below the big water trough the romantic spot known as the "Turkey's Nest" is reached. The road crosses a small stream here, which, owing to the peculiar formation of the ground, required the erection of a bridge, supported on the south side by an immense stone wall. This is one of the largest stone structures on the road, and is in a good state of preservation. It is a fine specimen of workmans.h.i.+p, and a grand monument to the skill of the old time stonemasons. This locality has always been invested with much interest, and admired by the lovers of picturesque beauty. Until recently it wore its primitive colorings.

Now it is changed. Its primitive appearance has disappeared before the advancing forces of progress and improvement. The native trees have been cut down and a little hamlet occupies their places with attendant stables, cribs, coops and other out-houses. The old ma.s.sive curved stone wall remains, but all about it so changed in appearance that the spot is scarcely recognized as the "Turkey's Nest." It is the popular belief that this locality derived its name from the discovery here of a wild turkey's nest, by workmen engaged on the original construction of the road.

An old long log house, near the foot of the hill, was called the "Goat Pen," and why is not accurately known, but this name it bore from one end of the road to the other.

We now reach the ancient and celebrated village of Monroe, a name it took in honor of the President hereinbefore mentioned. Approached from the east, the first old tavern and the first house in the place is the "Deford House," in the olden time and by old people called the General Wayne House. It appears that at an early day General Wayne had occasion to pa.s.s this way, and tarried over night with John Deford, who kept tavern in a small log house a short distance in the rear of the present building. Deford at this time was contemplating the erection of a new and more imposing edifice, and applied to his distinguished guest for a plan. It was furnished, and the present stone structure is the outcome of it, which shows plainly enough that General Wayne was a much better soldier than architect. Deford kept tavern here for a long time, and was succeeded first by Henry Fisher and next by Matthias Fry. Samuel Magie is now the owner of the property, and its career as a tavern is ended.

A frame house a short distance below and on the opposite side of the street from the Deford House was once kept by James Dennison, who had a considerable trade. It was afterward kept by Matthias Fry, but business then had greatly decreased. Fry, in his prime, was one of the best men on the road, and a great favorite among the wagoners. He had been a wagoner himself for many years, and was at one time general agent for a transportation line from Baltimore to Wheeling, which made him the disburser of large sums of money, and he discharged his office with scrupulous fidelity. He was a large, fine looking man, stoutly built, and possessing great physical power. Although amiable and good natured, he was occasionally drawn into a fight, and on one occasion, at Petersburg, in Somerset county, Pennsylvania, whipped three reputed bullies, one after another, who entered his house when he lived there, and proposed to "clean him out," as evidence of their prowess. He died a few years ago in Monroe, where his widow is still living.[X]

[Footnote X: Now dead.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: JAMES SNYDER.]

The next old tavern in Monroe is the stone house built by Andrew McMasters, and subsequently owned and kept for many years by German D.

Hair. He was the only man that ever kept this house, and he died in it a few years ago, aged about eighty years. He was a native of Chester county, Pennsylvania, and came to the vicinity of Uniontown about the time the road was made. He was a stonemason by trade, and worked on many of the bridges of the road, including the eastern and western bridges at Uniontown.

Next we come to the "s.h.i.+pley House." Like all the tavern houses in Monroe, and nearly all the private houses, this is a stone building, and is two stories high. It was erected by E. W. Clement, and good workmans.h.i.+p displayed in its construction. It was kept awhile by Clement, and after him at different times by John Wallace, Archibald Skiles, Samuel s.h.i.+pley, Redding Bunting, and Lindsey Messmore.

Next is the "Monroe House," one of the oldest in the place. It was built by Andrew McMasters, and subsequently and successively kept by E.W.

Clement, Thomas Acklin, James Shafer, A. Skiles, John Worthington, M.

Fry, and Calvin Springer. This was a popular house in the golden era of the road, and did an extensive business. Monroe was a thriving village when the pike flourished, and the center of fun and frolic. It began to decline when the trade left the road, but is now reviving and wearing an air of prosperity by reason of the coal developments in the vicinity.

On the hill above Monroe stands an old two-story brick house, fast sinking into decay, which was once a well known and popular tavern stand. It was owned and kept by William Morris. He put up an imposing sign, inscribed on the west side with the words, "Welcome from the West," and on the east side the words, "Welcome from the East." This was no false lure, and travelers from the east and west crowded into the old house to enjoy its good cheer. Alonzo L. Little, for many years editor and proprietor of the _Genius of Liberty_, was a son-in-law of William Morris, and he had a son (Luther) who settled in Iowa and was elected State Treasurer there.

Harry Gilbert once kept a tavern in the house where Charles Livingston now has a grocery, at the east end of Uniontown, and in later years it was kept by M. Fry and J. Allen Messmore.

Many years ago the Widow Sands kept tavern in the frame house at the point where the Connellsville and Cool Spring Furnace roads lead off from the pike.

CHAPTER x.x.xIII.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Uniontown--The Town as it Appeared to Gen. Dougla.s.s in 1784--Its Subsequent Growth and Improvement--The First Tavern--Other Early Taverns--An Old Chief Justice and an Old Landlady wrangle over a Roasted Pig--Anecdote of George Manypenny and President Jefferson--The Swan, The McClelland, The Seaton, The National, The Clinton, The Moran, The Mahaney._

[Ill.u.s.tration: GEN. EPHRAIM DOUGLa.s.s.]

At the east end of Uniontown the road crosses Redstone creek, over a ma.s.sive and extensive stone bridge, one of the best and most expensive samples of masonry on the whole line, built by Kinkead, Beck and Evans in 1818. Gen. Ephraim Dougla.s.s, the first prothonotary of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, in a letter to Gen. James Irvine, in 1784, describes Uniontown in the following vigorous and graphic style:

"_My Dear General_--If my promise were not engaged to write to you, my inclinations are sufficiently so to embrace with alacrity any opportunity of expressing the grat.i.tude so justly due to your valuable friends.h.i.+p, of declaring the friends.h.i.+p of mine. This Uniontown is the most obscure spot on the face of the globe. I have been here seven or eight weeks, without one opportunity of writing to the land of the living, and though considerably south of you, so cold that a person not knowing the lat.i.tude, would conclude we were placed near one of the poles. Pray have you had a severe winter below? We have been frozen up here for more than a month past, but a great many of us having been bred in another State, the eating of hominy is as natural to us as the drinking of whisky in the morning. The town and its appurtenances consist of our president and a lovely little family, a court house and school house in one, a mill and consequently a miller, four taverns, three smith shops, five retail shops, two tan yards, one of them only occupied, one saddler's shop, two hatter's shops, one mason, one cake woman (we had two, but one of them having committed a pet.i.t larceny is upon banishment), two widows and some reputed maids, to which may be added a distillery. The upper part of this edifice is the habitation at will of your humble servant, who, beside the smoke of his own chimney, which is intolerable enough, is fumigated by that of two stills below, exclusive of the other effluvia that arises from the dirty vessels in which they prepare the materials for the stills. The upper floor of my parlor, which is also my chamber and office, is laid with loose clap-boards, or puncheons, and the gable ends entirely open; and yet this is the best place in my power to procure, till the weather will permit me to build, and even this I am subject to be turned out of the moment the owner, who is at Kentuck, and hourly expected, returns. I can say little of the country in general, but that it is very poor in everything but its soil, which is excellent, and that part contiguous to the town is really beautiful, being level and prettily situate, accommodated with good water, and excellent meadow ground. But money we have not, nor any practicable way of making it. How taxes are collected, debts paid, or fees discharged, I know not; and yet the good people appear willing enough to run in debt and go to law.

I shall be able to give you a better account of this hereafter.

Col. McClean received me with a degree of generous friends.h.i.+p, that does honor to the goodness of his heart, and continues to show every mark of satisfaction at my appointment. He is determined to act under the commission sent him by council, and though the fees would, had he declined it, have been a considerable addition to my profits, I cannot say that I regret his keeping them. He has a numerous small family, and though of an ample fortune in lands, has no cash at command. The general curse of the country, disunion, rages in this little mud hole with as much fury, as if they had each pursuits of the utmost importance, and the most opposed to each other, when in truth, they have no pursuits at all that deserve the name, except that of obtaining food and whisky, for raiment they scarcely use any. The commissioners--trustees, I should say--having fixed on a spot in one end of the town for the public buildings, which was by far the most proper, in every point of view, exclusive of the saving of expense, the other end took the alarm and charged them with partiality, and have been ever since uttering their complaints. And at the late election for justices, two having been carried in this end of the town, and none in the other, has made them quite outrageous. This trash is not worth troubling you with, therefore I beg your pardon, and am with unfeigned esteem, dear general, your very humble servant.

"EPHRAIM DOUGLa.s.s."

That was a long time ago, and a great change has come over the face of things. Gen. Dougla.s.s lived to see Uniontown arise from the mud hole and become a flouris.h.i.+ng county seat. His mortal remains lie buried within the sound of the court house bell, and could he come forth now, and see Uniontown, he would be startled. Instead of a mud hole, he would see finely paved streets, studded with handsome buildings, lighted by electricity, enlivened by electric cars, telegraphs, telephones and railroads, and where the old distilleries stood, beautiful and staunch church edifices with spires pointing to the skies, and in fact he would behold all the evidences of a flouris.h.i.+ng city, inhabited by active, intelligent and Christian people.

The first tavern in Uniontown was kept by John Collins in 1781. It was a log house on the north side of the main street, the site of which is now covered by "Commercial Row." This old house remained standing until 1839, when it was torn down by its owner of that date. Isaac Beeson, who erected the buildings thereafter known as "Commercial Row." John Collins kept this old tavern down to the year 1799. It was subsequently kept at different times by Samuel Salter, Cuthbert Wiggins, William Salter, John Hoge and Andrew Byers. William Salter was an old sheriff. Byers went from this house to the old Walker House, now the "Central," and afterward to the "Clinton House."

Jonathan Rowland, Daniel Culp and Matthew Campbell each kept a tavern in Uniontown as early as 1783. The location of Rowland's tavern is not accurately known, but the best evidence available, points to the lot now owned by Daniel Downer, esq., and occupied by law offices, near the court house, as the site. Jonathan Rowland subsequently became a justice of the peace, and a leader in public affairs. Culp's old tavern was a log house on the lot now owned and occupied by Justice Willson, corner of Main street and Gallatin avenue. Matthew Campbell's old tavern, stood on the western side of the lot now covered by the Moran House, formerly and for many years known as the "Fulton."

Colin Campbell as early as 1785 kept a tavern in a house that stood on the lot now covered by the Bryan building, on Main street, near the center of the town. This old tavern was subsequently owned and presided over by Samuel Salter, father of William Salter, the old sheriff.

Margaret Allen kept a tavern in the east end of town, a little above and opposite the Madison College buildings, in the year 1788, and for some time thereafter. She died in 1810, at the age of ninety-one years.

Dr. Robert McClure opened a tavern in December, 1792, a short distance west of the court house, on the south side of the street, and kept it down to the year 1813. It does not appear that any other person kept this house. It was in close proximity to the "Jolly Irishman," hereafter mentioned.