The Diary of John Evelyn Volume I Part 23

I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would have us to the mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we were dismissed.

Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited.

The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that very day twelve months before I met at sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the next morning.

5th July, 1650. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great chemist.

Sunday 7th July, 1650. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went thither, and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad.

17th July, 1650. I went to London to obtain a pa.s.s,[41] intending but a short stay in England.

[Footnote 41: A copy of it is subjoined. "These are to will and require you to permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and other necessaries, into any port of France without any your lets or molestations, of which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650.

"Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, appointed by authority of Parliament, JO. BRADSHAWE, President.

"To all Customers, Comptrollers and Searchers, and all other officers of the Ports, or Customs."

Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing; "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed]

M[emory."] Its endors.e.m.e.nt, also in his writing, is, "The Pa.s.s from the Council of State, 1650."]

25th July, 1650. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the state, as then called.

4th August, 1650. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties.

6th August, 1650. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an excellent copy of t.i.tian.

12th August, 1650. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and having only an antiquated pa.s.s, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear of them though not without extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe himself, where I had not so much as my trunk opened.

[Sidenote: CALAIS]

13th August, 1650. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind not favorable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about one o'clock; about five in the morning, we had a long boat to carry us to land, though at a good distance; this we willingly entered, because two vessels were chasing us; but, being now almost at the harbor's mouth, through inadvertency there broke in upon us two such heavy seas, as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehensive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into the pier, and so, G.o.d be thanked! we got to Calais, though wet.

Here I waited for company, the pa.s.sage toward Paris being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers.

16th August, 1650. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1,400 horse and foot (among them was a captain whom I knew), being come to town, I took horses for myself and servant, and marched under their protection to Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, cattle, and whatever came in their way; but they had such ill pay, that they were ready themselves to starve.

As we pa.s.sed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the guards doubled, and everybody running with their movables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within five leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this part of France at this time.

[Sidenote: PARIS]

The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months only.

1st September, 1650. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives.

Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife had baptized.

15th October, 1650. Sir Thomas...o...b..rne (afterward Lord Treasurer) and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent on a treat; they shot so exact that it was a drawn match.

1st November, 1650. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going on his journey toward Italy; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's Household, the Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor.

6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas...o...b..rne supping with us, his groom was set upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave the a.s.sa.s.sin nine, who was carried off to the Charite Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my friends.

16th November, 1650. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one ba.s.s viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patroness of Musicians. News arrived of the death of the Princess of Orange of the smallpox.

14th December, 1650. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an imposter that had liked to have imposed upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold; it is certain he had lived some time in Paris in extraordinary splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheat.

22d December, 1650. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me.

31st December, 1650. I gave G.o.d thanks for his mercy and protection the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, near 600 sterling.

1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had long been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those countries, the Arabs especially.

27th January, 1651. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grand-mother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety.

29th January, 1651. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel.

9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arret du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.

23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of hermits; a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden on the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard, and a delicate prospect toward the city.

24th February, 1651. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also dancing on the rope; but, above all, surprising to those who were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter, who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his mouth in several gla.s.ses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. For a piece of money he discovered the secret to me. I waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, who, being an excellent chemist, showed me his laboratory, and rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both physician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some [Transcriber's note: special symbol for the planet Mercury] of antimony. He had cured Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a monumental altar that was to cost 1,500.

11th March, 1651. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to an iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor, and then his feet with another cable, fastened about five feet further than his utmost length to another ring on the floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the rope which bound his feet, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary manner, he having only a pair of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they questioned him of a robbery (the lieutenant being present and a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this agony, confessing nothing, the executioner with a horn (just such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quant.i.ty of two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and affrighted any one to see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then let him down, and carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I know not; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly averred him to be the man, and the fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be racked, betrayed some guilt; the lieutenant was also of that opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture; and so it seems they could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the galleys, which is as bad as death.

There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spectacle was so uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It represented yet to me the intolerable sufferings which our Blessed Savior must needs undergo, when his body was hanging with all its weight upon the nails on the cross.

20th March, 1651. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the Marquis de Crevecoeur's, where were divers princes, dukes, and great persons; but what appeared to me very mean was, that it began with a puppet-play.

6th May, 1651. I attended the amba.s.sador to a masque at Court, where the French King in person danced five entries, but being engaged in discourse, and better entertained with one of the Queen-Regent's secretaries, I soon left the entertainment.

11th May, 1651. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera. The first scene represented a chariot of singers composed of the rarest voices that could be procured, representing Cornaro[42] and Temperance; this was overthrown by Bacchus and his revelers; the rest consisted of several entries and pageants of excess, by all the elements. A masque representing fire was admirable; then came a Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _a l'antique_, but the habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious.

[Footnote 42: The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.]

23d May, 1651. I went to take leave of the amba.s.sadors for Spain, which were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edward Hyde; and, as I returned, I visited Mr. Morine's garden, and his other rarities, especially corals, minerals, stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of the Red Sea, the body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the two legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of sh.e.l.ls, at least 1,000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of great price; and had a very curious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was compiling a natural history. He had also the pictures of his choice flowers and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips only. He had _taille-douces_ out of number; the head of the rhinoceros bird, which was very extravagant, and one b.u.t.terfly resembling a perfect bird.

25th May, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned priest and famous philosopher,[43] author of the book "De Mundo," with whose worthy brother I was well acquainted at Rome. I was shown a cabinet of Maroquin, or Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and gilding, that the workman demanded for it 800 livres.

[Footnote 43: A native of Ess.e.x, who was born in 1582, educated abroad, and, his family being Catholic, became a priest of that church, the sub-rector of the college at Douay. He advocated the Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him into an extensive correspondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of which he Latinized his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died in 1676.]

The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of Pentecost, perstringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgin.

4th June, 1651. Trinity Sunday, I was absent from church in the afternoon on a charitable affair for the Abbess of Bourcharvant, who but for me had been abused by that chemist, Du Menie. Returning, I stepped into the Grand Jesuits, who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me, on his return to England.

5th June, 1651. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, and some other n.o.ble persons, to hear Madam Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and Italian excellently well, but her voice was not strong.

7th June, 1651. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full of images, and other rich furniture, especially that before the Court, of a rare design and architecture. There were abundance of excellent pictures and great vases of silver.

13th June, 1651. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, porcelain, medals, statues, relievos, paintings, _taille-douces_, and antiquities, might compare with the Italian virtuosos.