The Beauties of the State of Washington Part 6

Transportation leads from there direct to the Columbia River, and the Yakima and Kitt.i.tas valleys. The Horse Heaven may be reached from Kennewick and Pasco, or from Prosser.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Copyright by Asahel Curtis_

SUNNYSIDE Ca.n.a.l--MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE

"_And the old wilderness is changed To cultured vale and hill_"]

The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the Palouse, Snake River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kitt.i.tas valleys, from Ellensburg a scenic overland route may be taken direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop may be made to include Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big Bend and the Spokane Country.

THE YAKIMA VALLEY.

Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich territory tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes Keechelus and Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the Columbia--a total distance of nearly 175 miles with a range of alt.i.tude, at the water's edge, varying from 2,250 down to 340 feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima Valley proper, the Kitt.i.tas and a number of minor valleys, including the Naches, the Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and the Topp.e.n.i.sh. These last two belong to the rich country just south of "Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Topp.e.n.i.sh are located, two enterprising cities, vieing for supremacy over the rich south half of Yakima county.

Further south is Prosser, county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is North Yakima with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, is Queen of the Kitt.i.tas Valley. The south half of Yakima county const.i.tutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima Tribes dwell peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the soil and occasionally entertaining the people with many a "Round Up," or Wild West Show. At Fort Simcoe is their school, deserving of a visit from anyone interested.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE YAKIMA VALLEY--MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE.

Photo by Curtis & Miller.]

In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and bunch gra.s.s, is irrigable land enough to support a population of a million people; for the total water capacity as surveyed by the United States Government is estimated at 927,000 acre feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres.

Less than a third of this is at present cultivated and watered from small ca.n.a.ls, built by private capital, and from the two largest ones in the state, constructed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter are the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the Sunnyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres.

A journey along the banks of these ca.n.a.ls or the Yakima river unfolds a panorama of unusual breadth and interest. Instead of the heavy forests of the west side, the sage brush struggles for existence just above the main ditches; but the country below is checkered with orchards, farms, and gardens; and cotton woods protect the banks of the streams.

Impressive is the sight in springtime when fruit trees are all in bloom and the Blossom Festival, partic.i.p.ated in by a hundred-thousand people, is ushering in the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches of color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.]

From the hills on either side, the picture a.s.sumes its most perfect form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, vegetable gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected and crisscrossed by railroads, highways, ca.n.a.ls, and rivers, protected by the brown hills near by and watched over by the mountains in the distance, supply composition for pictures that in detail and variety must discourage all compet.i.tion.

THE WENATCHEE VALLEY.

Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee Valley, reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot hills of the Cascades.

This, too, was a desolate brown slope until the effects of irrigation were felt on its rich volcanic ash soil. After that only ten years were necessary to convert it into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of the forlorn looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the valley and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid ma.s.s of blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink.

Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens below, are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters that irrigate the land; while dodging from one side of the vale to the other, or paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the Wenatchee river hastens onward towards the Columbia.

The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered hills, spurs of the Cascades, over which many trails lead to charming mountain lakes and streams, where summer homes are maintained, and game awaits the hunter.

The east opens up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the Columbia River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in all the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in the vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported in affluence by successful fruit culture or gardening.

Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central Was.h.i.+ngton, with a population of about 5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth near the head of the valley; and Cashmere, midway between the two. The pervading spirit is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee red apple is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 annually.

LAKE CHELAN.

Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest sheets of fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American continent. It is one of a number of beautiful lakes found throughout the highlands in the vicinity of the upper Columbia, but on account of its thrilling beauty and easy approach has become one of the favorite resorts for the entire northwest.

It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes from the Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. River boats, automobile stages, or Great Northern trains allow three princ.i.p.al modes of transportation, each of which reveals different scenes of interest.

During summer months the overland trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant and presents the fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The return might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course of four miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE WENATCHEE VALLEY--NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE.

Photo by Curtis & Miller.]

Surpa.s.sing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Columbia, and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan canyon reaches in places nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 feet below the surface. Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to Stehekin, views are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color blending are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness of the whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy with divine nature. Among features of striking scenic importance are Railroad Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 miles, the Stehekin River, and Rainbow Falls.

THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS.

This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating with fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open forests of spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the homeseeker, pleasure for the sportsman, and continuous scenes of interest for the tourist are suggested. Here one can yet feel the presence of the true western spirit of frontiers.h.i.+p, for this part of the state was the last to be thrown open to settlers; and the Indians are still in full possession of the Colville Indian reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the south central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river to the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the valleys yield liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, and the higher lands are devoted to grain and stock raising. Lumbering plays its part and mining for precious metals a.s.sumes greater importance than elsewhere in the state.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SIMILKAMEEN RIVER NEAR OROVILLE

FARM SCENE IN THE METHOW

PATTERSON LAKE

METHOW VALLEY

FORT OKANOGAN--FIRST WHITE SETTLEMENT IN WAs.h.i.+NGTON

ORCHARDS IN THE OKANOGAN VALLEY

THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.]

The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and the Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil and the Methow are dependent on highway conveyances. Of extreme interest is the ride from Spokane up the Colville and Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with a short side trip to Republic, the leading gold producing city in the state. The railroad crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing the unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion of King George of England and the next back under the Stars and Stripes.

Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque canyons are invaded before arriving at the heights from which Oroville appears far below--requiring an hour for the train to descend by a series of remarkable switchbacks.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.]

Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in their infancy, for its development has been so recent; but therein lies much of its charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading city is Newport, the county seat, prettily located on both sides of the river, half in Idaho and half in Was.h.i.+ngton. In Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, and Colville, the largest city in the region, with a population of over 1,500 people. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's Indian Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WINESAP TREE

FIRST WATER ON THE LAND

A VINEYARD

PRUNE ORCHARD IN BLOOM

IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WAs.h.i.+NGTON.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK--MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE DISTANCE.

Photo by Frank Palmer.]

THE SPOKANE COUNTRY.

From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire are easily reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city and two others operate trains; while a network of electric lines serves the immediate vicinity, penetrating the territory as far south as Colfax, Palouse, and Moscow; southwest to Medical Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden Lake and Coeur d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each mode of transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills nearest Spokane are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther away are forests of pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing many lakes teeming with trout and black ba.s.s. Within a radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain lakes, thirty-eight of which are ideally located and supplied with all necessary equipment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second largest fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National Forest Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; Liberty Lake, seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; Spirit Lake, forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; and Twin Lakes, thirty-three miles.