The Art of Perfumery Part 12

The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like.

It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulae for preparing the most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.

THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME.

Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint.

" geranium, 1/2 "

" acacia, 1/4 "

" fleur d'orange, 1/4 "

" civet, 1/4 "

THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET.

Extract of acacia, 1 pint.

" jasmine, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "

" fleur d'orange, } " tubereuse, } " civet, 1/4 "

Otto of almonds, 10 drops.

BOUQUET D'AMOUR.

Esprit de rose, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.

" violette, } " ca.s.sie, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 "

" ambergris, }

Mix and filter.

BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE.

Extrait de jasmine, } " rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.

" violette, } " tuberose, } Extract of orris, 1 "

Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET.

Extrait de fleur d'orange,} " ca.s.sie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.

" jasmine, } " rose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 "

" ambergris, } Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm.

" lavender, 1/2 "

" rose, 1 "

BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES.

Extrait de rose, } " violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.

" tuberose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 "

" ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, } " Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz.

" cedret, }

THE COURT NOSEGAY.

Extrait de rose, } " violette, } of each, 1 pint.

" jasmine, } Esprit de rose triple, 1 "

Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz.

" ambergris, } Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz.

" bergamot, } " neroli, 1 drachm.

EAU DE CHYPRE.

This is an old-fas.h.i.+oned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the _Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus--

Extract of musk, 1 pint.

" ambergris, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/2 "

" tonquin bean, } " orris, } Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints.

The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made.

EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY.

Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint.

" tonquin, } " neroli, } " geranium, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "

" santal, }

ESTERHAZY BOUQUET.

Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint.

Esprit de rose triple, 1 "

Extract of vitivert, } " vanilla, } of each, 2 "

" orris, } " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, 1 "

Extract of ambergris, 1/2 "

Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm.

" cloves, 1/2 "

Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited greater _furor_ while in fas.h.i.+on.

ESS BOUQUET.

The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., c.o.c.kspur Street, London, who are, in truth, the original makers.

Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint.

Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.

" orris, 8 "

Otto of lemons, 1/4 "

" bergamot, 1 "

The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere contraction of "essence" of bouquet.

EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La premiere qualite._)

Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons.

Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz.