A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xvii Part 13

There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula; but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will probably increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary, that they should not have adopted the services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.

The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest rocks with an agility that is astonis.h.i.+ng. The natives work their horns into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.

xiii.

I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coa.r.s.er. They are of a variety of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.

Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty- nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be remarked, that they never make use of b.i.t.c.hes for the draft, nor dogs, but those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food, they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are necessary for their future destination.

The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild- ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives _a-an-gitche_; a word intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable, consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each other.[68]

There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water- fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.

In the woods through which we pa.s.sed, were seen several eagles of a prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle, with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard kind, there are great numbers.

This country likewise affords woodc.o.c.ks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse, or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which sometimes consisted of twenty brace.

We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.

Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.

The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here; but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.

We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they were exceedingly plentiful.

The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea- animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.

Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work, almost ready for publication, ent.i.tled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]

Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some good and nouris.h.i.+ng roots, and every part of the country abounds in berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.

Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes; they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no part of the whale which here does not find its use.

From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught great quant.i.ties of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm, and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round p.r.i.c.kly k.n.o.bs, like turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large quant.i.ties of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.

Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred, but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.

The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales _Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this circ.u.mstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superst.i.tious ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first should belong. The season for fis.h.i.+ng for this species lasts from the middle of May till the end of June.

The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June; from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great quant.i.ties, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the sh.o.r.e. In this position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course close in with the sh.o.r.e, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when they shoot the canoe to sh.o.r.e in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling, but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across, and haul another down the stream to it.

The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quant.i.ty of bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.

The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish, and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes, that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.

_List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant_.[75]

*Argali, wild sheep, Arct. _Capra ammon_, Lin. Syst. 97 Zool. vol. i. p. 12.

Ibex, _or_ wild goat 16 _Capra ibex_. 90 *Rein 22 _Cervus tarandus_. 93 *Wolf 38 _Canis lupus_. 53 *Dog 40 *Arctic fox 42 _Canis lagopus_. 59 *European fox 45 _Canis vulpes_. 59 * a. black 46 b. cross ib.

*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea _Ursus Arctos_. 69 only 55 *Bear 57 _Ursus arctos_.

*Wolverene 66 _Ursus luscus_. 71 *Common weasel 75 _Mustela nivalis_. 69 *Stoat, _or_ ermine ib. _Mustela erminea_. 68 *Sable 79 _Mustela zibellina_. 68 Common otter 86 _Mustela lutra_. 66 *Sea otter 88 _Mustela lutris_. 66 *Varying hare 94 _Lepus timidus_.

Alpine hare 97 *Earless marmot 113 _Mus citellus_. 113 Bobak marmot 115 Water rat 130 _Mus amphibius_. 82 Common mouse 131 _Mus Musculus_. 83 OEconomic mouse 134 Red mouse 136 Ichelag mouse 138 Foetid shrew 139 _Sorex araneus_. 74 *Walrus. Icy sea 144 _Trichecus rosmarus_. 49 *Common seal 151 _Phoca vitulina_ 56 Great seal 159 Leporine seal 161 Harp seal 163 Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles 165 Ursine seal ib. _Phoca ursina_ 58 Leonine seal 172 *Whale-tailed manati 177

There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are aboriginal.

BIRDS.

LAND BIRDS.

I. Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194 _Falco ossifragus_ ..... 124 *Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4 _Vultur albiulla_ ...... 123 *White-headed eagle ... 196 _Falco leucocephalus_ .. ib.

Crying eagle ......... 215 (Latham, I.38.) Osprey ............... 199 _Falco haliaetus_ ....... 129 Peregrine falcon ..... 202 (Latham, I.73.[76]) Goshawk .............. 204 _Falco palumbarius_..... 130 II. Eagle owl ............ 228 _Strix bubo_ ........... 131 Snowy owl ............ 233 _Strix nyctea_.......... 132 III Raven ................ 246 _Corvus corax_.......... 155 Magpye ............... 147 _Corvus pica_ .......... 157 Nutcracker ........... 252 _Corvus caryocatactes_.. ib.

IV. Cuckoo ............... 266 _Cuculus canorus_ ...... 168 V. Wryneck .............. 267 _Jynx torquilla_ ....... 172 VI. Nuthatch ............. 281 _Sitta Europea_ ....... 177 VII. White grous .......... 308 _Tetrao lagopus_ ....... 274 Wood grous ........... 312 _Tetrao urogallus_ ..... 273 VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332 _Sturnus cinclus_ IX. Fieldfare ............ 340 _t.u.r.dus pilaris_ ...... 291 Redwing thrush ....... 341 _t.u.r.dus iliacus_ ...... 291 Kamtschatkan ......... 343 (Latham, III. 23.) X. Greenfinch ........... 353 _Loxia chloris_ ........ 304 XI. Golden bunting ....... 367 (Latham, II. 201.) XII. Lesser red-headed linnet .............. 379/ (Latham, II. 305.) XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390 (Latham, II. 351.) XIV. Sky-lark ............. 394A. _Alauda a.r.s.ensis_ ..... 287 Wood-lark ............ 395B. _Alauda arborea_ ...... ib.

XV. White wagtail ........ 396E. _Motacilla alba_ ...... 331 Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F. _Motacilla flava_ ..... ib.

Tschutski wagtail .... 397H. (Latham, IV. 403.) XVI. Yellow wren .......... 413 _Motacilla trochilus_. 338 Redstart ............. 416 _Motacilla phaenicurus_. 335 Longbilled ........... 420 Stapazina ............ 421 _Motacilla stapazina_. 331 Awatska .............. 422 XVII. Marsh t.i.tmouse ....... 427 _Paras pal.u.s.tris_ ..... 341 XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429 _Hirundo rustica_ ..... 343 Martin ............... 430 _Hirundo urbica_ ..... 344 Sand martin .......... ib. _Hirundo riparia_ .... ib.

XIX. European goatsucker ... 437 _Caprimulgus Europeus_. 346

WATER FOWL.

_Cloven-footed Water Fowl_.

Crane P.453 A. _Ardeagrus_ 334 Curlew P.462 A. _Scolopax arquata_ 242 Whimbrel P.462 B. _Scolopax phaeopus_ 243 Common sandpiper No 388 _Tringa hypoleucos_ 250 Gambet No 394 _Tringa gambetta_ 248 Golden plover No 399 _Charadrius pluvialis_ 254 Pied oyster-catcher No _Haematopus ostralegus_ 257

_With pinnated Feet_.

Plain phalarope.

_With webbed Feet_.

Wandering albatross No 423 _Diomedea exulans_ 214 Razor-bill hawk No 425 _Alca torda_ 210 Puffin No 427 _Alca arctica_ 211 Antient No 430 Pygmy No 431 Tufted No 432 Parroquet No 433 Crested No 434 Dusky No 435 Foolish guillemot No 436 _Colymbus troille_ 220 Black guillemot No 437 _Colymbus grylle_. ib.

Marbled guillemot No 438 Imber diver No 440 _Colymbus immer_ 222 Speckled diver No 441 Red-throated diver No 443 _Colymbus septentrionalis_ 220 Great tern No 448 _Sterna hirundo_.

Kamtschatkan P.525 A.

Black-headed gull No 455 _Larus ridibundus_ 225 Kittiwake gull No 456 _Larus rissa_ 224 Ivory gull No 457 Arctic gull No 459 Tarrock P.533D._Larus tridactylus_. ib.

Red-legged P.533 E.

Fulmar petrel No 464 _Procellaria glacialis_ 213 Stormy petrel No 464 _Procellaria pelagica_ 212 Kurile petrel P.536 A.

Blue petrel.[77] Preface.

Goosander merganser No 465 _Mergus merganser_ 208 Smew No 468 _Mergus albellus_ 209 Whistling swan No 469 _Anas Cygnus ferus_ 194 A.

Great goose P.570 Chinese goose P.571 _Anas cygnoides_ 194 B.

Snow goose No 477 Brent goose No 478 _Anas bernicla_ 198 Eider duck No 480 _Anas molitsima_ ib.