Textiles and Clothing Part 15

Shadow embroidery is worked on the wrong side of thin material, using the cat st.i.tch. The outline of the design only shows on the right side, the body of the design being seen dimly through the material.

[Sidenote: Arrow Heads]

The arrow head and crow's foot are ornamental fastenings used in fine tailoring as endings for seams, tucks, plaits, and at corners. They are made as shown in the ill.u.s.tration.

Mercerized cotton, linen, or any of the embroidery silks can be used for these st.i.tches, in all sizes and colors, or they can be worked with ordinary thread, cotton or linen, sewing silk, or twist. Cotton thread wears better than linen.

HEMS

[Sidenote: Folding Hems]

A hem is a fold of goods twice folded to protect a raw edge. The first turn or fold of the hem is the most important. It should be straight and even, _folded to a thread_, for upon it depends the beauty of the hem.

The hem should always be turned towards the worker and creased firmly, but never pleated along the fold. First crease the narrow fold, then crease the second fold the desired width, marking by a measure and baste not too near the edge. The first fold _along_ the _woof_ threads should be at least one-fourth of an inch in width, as the woof threads give or stretch more than the warp threads; otherwise it will not lie flat.

[Sidenote: Sewing Hems]

In sewing the hem, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. In white work the st.i.tches should be fine, showing as little as possible.

[Sidenote: Bias Hem]

All bias and curved edges should have the first fold basted. In cloth or silk this first basting thread should match the material and not be taken out.

[Sidenote: Faced hem]

A facing or faced hem is also used as a protection to the edge of a garment. A true bias or fitted facing should be used for a facing if the edges of the garment are curved. An extension hem is one in which the whole width of the hem is used.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HEMMING

_a_--Shows method of cutting to do away with a clumsey corner.]

[Sidenote: Slip-St.i.tching]

Slip-st.i.tching or invisible hemming is done on silk, wool, and thick material. The hem is pressed with an iron, a st.i.tch as fine as possible is taken on the surface of the cloth and the needle slipped under and through the first fold, drawing the thread lightly. The needle and thread used in this st.i.tch must be very fine.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MITERED CORNERS

Method of Folding and Cutting.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROLLED HEM AND WHIPPED GATHERS

_a_--Rolled Hem Gathered; _b_--Whipped Roll; _c_--Double Whipped; _d_--Roll Hemmed; _e_--Gathers Sewed to Band.]

[Sidenote: Rolled Hem]

Rolled hem and whipped gathers are made with the wrong side of the material next the worker. Make a tiny roll of the edge towards the worker, using the left thumb and index finger, rolling an inch at a time (and no more) before hemming. Make fine, even st.i.tches in the roll and goods. Keep the hem perfectly round, firm and not too large. This hem is adapted only to fine material and the edge across the warp is the more easily rolled.

[Sidenote: Whipped Gathers]

To gather, whip the rolled hem without hemming, making overcasting st.i.tches towards you, even and not too fine. Use coa.r.s.er thread than for hemming. This gathering thread is used to hold down the edge as well as for drawing up the gathers and it not to be taken out, as is the ordinary gathering thread. It should _not_ catch in the roll. Have the thread the length of the plain s.p.a.ce to which it is to be sewed and regulate the gathers as you do the gathering. After the edge is rolled, whipped and gathered, it is sewed to the garment by the little scallops or raised parts made by the whipping. This is used only for making ruffles or gathering on very fine hand work.

[Sidenote: French Hem]

The French hem is used for table linen. Fold as in an ordinary hem, then fold the hem back on the right side and overhand the edge formed, taking fine st.i.tches. Press the hem flat from the right side.

[Sidenote: Flannel Hems]

Flannel hems should _not_ be twice folded, for there will be a ridge instead of a flat surface after the garment has been laundered, owing to the felting properties of the wool. Hems on flannel should not be st.i.tched by hand or machine, but cat st.i.tched on the wrong side and finished on the right side with any ornamental st.i.tch.

Hems in infants' clothing may be turned on the right side and made ornamental by feather st.i.tching.

No selvage should ever be used on a hem. The selvage is more closely woven and will draw or pucker in laundrying.

TUCKS

Tucks are folds made on thin material for ornament, to shorten or to provide for lengthening a garment. If done by hand, a card measure is preferable to a tape measure for marking the s.p.a.ce and width of the tucks. The folds should be creased to a thread, basted and sewed with a running st.i.tch showing but little on the face, or st.i.tched on the machine. Fine thread should be used.

SEAMS

A seam is the line of sewing that joins material; it may be plain or ornamental. The most important are the overhand, felled, French, slot, lapped, flannel, and beaded.

The overhand seam is described under the overhand st.i.tch.

[Sidenote: Felled Seam]

A fell is a seam hemmed down to the goods to protect the raw edge. It is usually made in night dresses, drawers, corset covers, etc. Baste with the piece farthest from the worker extended one-eighth of an inch beyond the other and sewed _with the grain_ of the goods, beginning at the widest part of any bias. Press the seam with the nail on the right side, turn the wide edge down flat to cover the raw edge and line of sewing, and hem flat either by hand or machine. Care should be taken to keep the seam flat on the right as well as on the wrong side. If the felling is done with the machine hemmer, the wide edge must be on the opposite side. The seam may be basted with both edges even if preferred, cutting off one edge after st.i.tching.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SEAMS

_a_--Full; _b_--French Screen.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: BEADED AND TAPED SEAMS

_A_--Tape basted on one edge, and the other edge turned and st.i.tched; _B_--Beading whipped to the folded edges; _a_--St.i.tched hem; _b_--Hem finished with feather st.i.tching.]

[Sidenote: French Seam]

A French seam is sewed twice--first on the right side as near the raw edge as possible. Cut off all frayed edges, turn the material by folding _on the seam_ or line of sewing, so the seam is folded inside and the second sewing is on the wrong side below the raw edges. This is not a good seam for underwear worn next the body, as it leaves a ridge on the wrong side, but it is useful for skirts of thin material, etc. It is more easily made than a fell.