Textiles and Clothing Part 17

The same marker may be used to mark the position for the b.u.t.tons. All markings for b.u.t.tons and b.u.t.tonholes, or for hooks and eyes, should be made at one time.

[Sidenote: Overcasting b.u.t.tonholes]

After cutting, the b.u.t.ton holes are overcast. This should always be done directly after cutting, especially if the goods ravels easily, otherwise it will be impossible to work a neat b.u.t.tonhole. Overcasting should be done with very fine thread (No. 150 for white goods), split silk for wool and silk. Three overcast st.i.tches on each side are sufficient for an ordinary size b.u.t.tonhole.

A very good plan to follow in cutting a b.u.t.tonhole in heavy material or material that frays easily is to chalk the position and length of the b.u.t.tonhole, then st.i.tch a row of machine st.i.tching each side of this mark, the two rows being a little more than one-eighth of an inch apart.

This holds all the thicknesses together and the b.u.t.tonhole may then be cut easily. It also serves as a guide in working the b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: b.u.t.tONS, b.u.t.tON HOLES, EYELETS, LOOPS]

The b.u.t.tonholing is begun at the inner side of the slit. Always place the knot on the outside of the garment a short distance to the right of the b.u.t.tonhole, leaving a long st.i.tch underneath which can be cut off when the b.u.t.tonhole is finished. A b.u.t.tonhole should be completed with one thread if possible as it is difficult to mend the thread securely and neatly. Letter D for twist is usually employed.

[Sidenote: Making b.u.t.tonholes]

Insert the needle in the edge of the material and when half way through, take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bringing them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle, and draw the thread from you, making the purl or loop st.i.tch directly on the edge of the b.u.t.tonhole. The st.i.tches should be about the width of the needle apart to allow for the purl. Be careful to complete each st.i.tch with a uniform movement so that the line will be perfectly straight and not wavy. The st.i.tches are placed more closely together in the rounded end of the b.u.t.tonhole where the chief wear comes.

[Sidenote: Staying]

Many workers, particularly tailors, always "stay" or "bar" around a b.u.t.tonhole before working. This may be done with several threads of twist or with a cord so that the worked edge of the b.u.t.tonhole will be firm and distinct. Tailors usually use a cord as this makes the edges heavier. It is always well to stay b.u.t.tonholes in heavy material as it strengthens them very much and improves their appearance.

[Sidenote: Bar Tack]

When the b.u.t.tonhole has been worked all around, the end is completed with a bar tack made by taking two or three st.i.tches across the end of the b.u.t.tonhole, drawing the edges closer together. This bar is covered with b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tches worked close together. The thread is fastened securely on the wrong side.

[Sidenote: Large b.u.t.tonholes]

After very large b.u.t.tonholes are finished, their straight edges should be closely basted together by an over and over st.i.tch and then pressed under a damp cloth. Before they are dry, a bodkin or stiletto should be pushed vigorously up through each eyelet until that opening becomes perfectly round and the st.i.tches on its edges are regular and distinct.

When the basting is removed, the b.u.t.tonhole will be symmetrical in appearance.

b.u.t.tonholes which are to bear a strain are cut in the direction of the pull, but sometimes they are cut in the opposite direction, as for a s.h.i.+rt waist. Such a b.u.t.tonhole may be completed with a bar tack on each end.

[Sidenote: Sewing on b.u.t.tons]

Ordinary b.u.t.tons should never be sewed down tightly, but the thread should be loose so that it may be wound around at the end, thus protecting the holding threads from wear. The shank prevents the b.u.t.tonhole from being crowded out of shape. Loose sewing can most easily be done by placing a pin or needle across the top of the b.u.t.ton and sewing over it. If a b.u.t.ton is much concaved, the pin may be placed underneath. The pin is removed before winding.

In sewing on a four-hole b.u.t.ton, the st.i.tches should be made symmetrically, either parallel or crossed, but not both. If parallel or in a two-holed b.u.t.ton the st.i.tches should run in the line of the b.u.t.tonhole. The thread should always be fastened at the beginning and at the end of the work. Place the knot upon the outside of the garment where it may be cut off when the b.u.t.ton is sewed securely. The knot is sometimes placed under the b.u.t.ton.

[Sidenote: Cloak b.u.t.tons]

In sewing b.u.t.tons on a cloak or coat an extra strip of canvas or silesia over the canvas interlining should be placed the entire length of the b.u.t.toning for strength. This should be applied before the work on the garment is too far advanced and if cut sufficiently wide, will allow any slight alteration. The sewing should go through the canvas facing and stay, but not through the under side or facing of the material.

In sewing b.u.t.tons on bodices a tape should be sewed over the front basting for a stay. If sufficient material has not been allowed for a lap, this should be added, as a lap is necessary under the opening of such b.u.t.tonholes.

b.u.t.tons may be sewed through lining having a small b.u.t.ton on the wrong side. This method prevents the cloth from tearing and makes an ornamental finish as well as a substantial one.

b.u.t.tons which are supplied with wire shanks should be sewed down firmly as the shank already provided permits the b.u.t.tons to set up well from the material. They should be placed in such a position that the wire shank will run parallel with the b.u.t.tonhole and not cross it.

[Sidenote: Hooks and Eyes]

The position for hooks and eyes should be marked before sewing on. The simplest, though least desirable, method of sewing-on these fastenings is to place the eye at the edge of the seam or facing and the hook sufficiently far back from the opposite side to give a lap. A much preferable method is to baste a bias strip of crinoline along the positions to be occupied by the hooks and eyes; this gives strength to the finish. Sufficient material should be allowed for folding over the shanks after the hooks and eyes have been sewed on, or they may be covered with silk ribbon, slipping the edge under the beak of each hook and then catst.i.tched in position.

The hooks and eyes are sewed securely through the crinoline and one thickness, but the st.i.tches should not show on the outside. Over and over st.i.tches are taken through the small rings in the line of the full and again on each bar of the eye and on the shank of the hook so that they may be held in position securely. In many cases, it is advisable to have an underlap of the material. This should be slip-st.i.tched in position on the garment after the eyes have been sewed in place.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HOOKS AND EYES

Sewed on tape, Shanks covered with taffeta tape and with fold of the goods.]

[Sidenote: Eyelets]

Eyelet holes are made with a stiletto which forces the threads aside, but does not cut them. The edge is finished with over and over st.i.tches placed closely together, or with a b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch making the purl on the outer edge of the st.i.tches. Loops are made by b.u.t.tonholing very closely over several foundation threads, making the purl on the outside edge. The needle may be run under the loop eye first if preferred.

PATCHING

[Sidenote: Underset Patch]

With the underset patch have the part to be patched pressed smooth, baste the patch on the wrong side of the garment before cutting out the worn place. (If the garment or article to be mended is worn or faded and shrunken by laundering, boil the piece in soap, soda and water to fade the patch, if of cotton or linen.) After basting, cut away all the worn cloth, making a square or oblong hole. Cut to a thread. Cut each corner, diagonally, one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, turn all four edges of the garment towards the wrong side. Begin at the center of one side and hem all around the square, taking slanting even st.i.tches, not too close together. Remove the basting, trim the edges of the patch, press the patch on the wrong side and catch st.i.tch to the garment. This shows less on the right side and does not make a hard line as if the patch were turned back on the edge. If the cloth has a pattern or stripe, match it perfectly, having the warp threads of both running the same way. Cut both hole and patch square. An oval or round patch is unworkmanlike and does not wear well. Keep the corners square and hem down well. The object of pressing is to keep both garment and patch flat and even.

Flannel patches should be cat-st.i.tched on the right side. No flannel edges should ever be inturned.

[Ill.u.s.tration: UNDERSET PATCH, RIGHT SIDE, EDGE TURNED AND HEMMED TO PATCH]

[Ill.u.s.tration: WRONG SIDE OF PATCH, CAT St.i.tCHED]

[Ill.u.s.tration: WRONG SIDE OF PATCH IN TABLE CLOTH--RAW EDGE OVERCAST]

[Sidenote: Onset Patch]

The onset patch is used on lined garments and linings. The patch should be rectangular and larger than the worn place. Fold the four edges on the wrong side of the patch, place the patch with its wrong side on the right side of the garment directly over the center of the hole. This will bring the folded edges of the patch between the two pieces of cloth and both right sides towards the worker. Do not baste, but pin carefully. After the garment has been folded back until there are two folded edges side by side, overhand the seam with even slanting st.i.tches. See that the corners are well sewed, that warp and woof threads run in the same direction, that pattern and stripes match.

[Ill.u.s.tration: LINEN PATCH; CROSS St.i.tCH INITIAL]

[Ill.u.s.tration: RIGHT SIDE OF FLANNEL PATCH

Edge cat st.i.tched but not turned, back cat st.i.tched in the same way.]

The worn part of the garment under the patch is cut away, leaving one-fourth of an inch on the three sides. Cut the corners diagonally and turn back the edge quarter of an inch, overcast and press. If this patch is sewed on a lining, the worn part is not cut away. If this patch is used to repair skirts near the band, only three sides are oversewed, the upper edge should be gathered into the band. A large patch is less conspicuous than a small one.

[Sidenote: Patch for Trowsers]

An onset patch may be used for the seats of trousers by shaping the patch like the pieces on the seats of bicycle trousers and st.i.tching on the machine. Heavy cloth will need no inturned edges. The same precautions are necessary regarding warp and woof, pattern, etc.