Textiles and Clothing Part 5

[Sidenote: Artificial Silk]

Artificial silk is made by dissolving cellulose obtained from cotton. It is lacking in strength and water spoils all kinds manufactured at present.

[Sidenote: Characteristics of Silk]

Silk, like wool, has the property of absorbing considerable moisture without becoming perceptibly damp. Like wool and all the animal fibers, it is harmed by alkalis. The important physical properties of silk are its beautiful l.u.s.ter, strength, elasticity and the readiness with which it takes dyes. Silk combines well with other fibers, animal and vegetable.

[Sidenote: Value of Raw Fibers]

A comparison of the relative value of textile fibers may be seen from the following approximate prices:

Cotton--$.07 to $.14 per pound; loss in cleaning and bleaching 5 per cent.

Flax--$.12 to $.30 per pound; loss in cleaning and bleaching about 20 per cent.

Wool--$.15 to $.30 per pound; loss in scouring 20 to 60 per cent.

Raw Silk--$7.00 to $10.00 per pound; loss in "boiling off" about 30 per cent which is made up and much more by "loading."

MODERN METHODS

All the complex processes and machinery of the textile industry are but developments of the old-time methods of the home. Brief outlines only will be given here for the processes are most intricate in detail.

SPINNING

The spinning of cotton yarn (thread) is typical of all the fibers. The stages may be divided into--

1. Opening and picking.

2. Carding.

3. Combing.

4. Drawing.

5. Spinning.

[Sidenote: Picking and Carding]

The picking and carding have for their object the removal of all foreign substances with as little damage to the fiber as possible. The foreign substances in cotton are sand, dirt, pieces of leaves, seed, husk, etc., which have become mixed with the fiber during the process of growing, ginning and transportation.

[Sidenote: Cleaning]

The cotton bales are opened and thrown into the automatic feeder which carries up a layer of cotton on a spiked ap.r.o.n from which it is removed by a rapidly revolving "doffer" underneath which is a screen which catches some of the dirt. It is next fed between rolls in front of a rapidly revolving blunt-edged knife which throws out more of the dirt through a screen. There is a suction of air through the screen which helps remove the foreign substances. The cotton pa.s.ses through several of such machines, being formed into a soft web or "lap" which is wound into a roll.

[Sidenote: Carding]

The carding machine further cleans the fibers and lays them in a general parallel position. From this machine the web is formed into "sliver," a loose rope of cotton fiber about two inches in diameter. This is received in circular cans.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COTTON OPENER AND PICKER

The cotton from the bale is thrown into _A_, carried by the spiked ap.r.o.ns _B_ and _C_, evened by _E_, removed from the ap.r.o.n by _F_ (some of the dirt falls through the screen into box _G_) is beaten by the revolving "knife," _N P_, more dirt being removed through screen _N_, then goes through the flue _C_ to the next machine.]

[Sidenote: Combing]

The combing is omitted for short fiber cotton, but is used in worsted spinning and with long staple cotton to remove the short fibers. Cotton to be used for making yarn suitable for hosiery, underwear, sewing thread, lace, and for very fine cotton fabrics is carded.

In drawing, from six to sixteen "slivers" are run together and the fibers drawn out in several stages until the soft rope is about an eighth of an inch in diameter, called "roving." This tends to get rid of any unevenness and makes the fibers all parallel. From this machine the roving is wound on a bobbin ready for the spinning frame.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COTTON CARD

The roll of webbing _A_ is beaten and transferred to the cylinder _H H_, carded by the spiked belt _E_, removed by the "doffer" and formed into a "sliver" which runs into the can _M_.]

[Sidenote: Spinning]

The spinning frame may have a hundred spindles or more, each one of which is drawing out its supply of "roving" to the required size of yarn and giving it the twist necessary to bind the fibers together. The yarn to be used for the warp is given a harder twist so that it may be strong enough to stand the strain in weaving. The yarn for filling is usually left soft.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COTTON COMB, USED FOR LONG STAPLE]

[Ill.u.s.tration: RECEIVING THE "SLIVER" AT THE BACK OF THE DRAWING FRAME.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: DRAWING FRAME Drawing the Roving Finer.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: A FLY SPINNING FRAME The Spools of Roving Above Are Being Drawn Out, Given the Twist by the Fliers, and Wound on Bobbins Below.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: MULE DRAWING AND SPINNING FRAME Always used for wool.

Part of the machine moves away from the frame, thus drawing out the thread, which is then twisted.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: MODERN RING SPINNING FRAME FOR COTTON. SIXTY-EIGHT SPINDLES Gives the Largest Production.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: A PLAIN POWER LOOM WEAVING LINEN]

The yarn for warp is now usually given a coating or "sizing" of starch and gums so that the thread may not become unwound and break during weaving.

The process of spinning is much the same for flax and for wool, although somewhat differently constructed machines must be used. Flax is usually spun wet.

WEAVING

[Sidenote: Modern Loom]

The modern power driven loom is a wonderful piece of machinery. The principle of its operation is essentially the same as the hand loom, but it is almost perfectly automatic in its action, a man or woman being able to tend from ten to fifteen looms weaving plain cotton goods.