Discoveries in Australia Volume I Part 26

March 1.

Bidding adieu to our hospitable friends, we left Port Phillip, and having spent a night at Port Western, stood out from it next morning, and pa.s.sed over in 12 and 15 fathoms, the patch of discoloured water discovered by Flinders, two miles south of the remarkable round islet, that lies off the western extreme of Grant Island. Pursuing our course to the eastward, we were detained by contrary winds for some time among the islands at the eastern entrance of the Strait. All these we found to be considerably out in position, showing the necessity of an accurate survey. We were exceedingly delighted when on the 5th we were enabled fairly to turn our back on Ba.s.s Strait, that region of storms, which stretched behind us as we receded like a black ma.s.s resting on the horizon. A strong south-wester soon carried us far away from it in the direction we had been so long endeavouring to pursue.

At noon on the 8th, we were close in with the land in the neighbourhood of Jervis Bay. A long line of cliffs fronts the sh.o.r.e; but the highlands recede as in the neighbourhood of Sydney, leaving a low tract of country between them and the sea.

PIGEON HOUSE.

To the South-West of this bay, we had an excellent view of that singular landmark, which Captain Cook, with his usual felicity in the choice of names, called the Pigeon House. It was just open of the south end of some tablelands, and resembled a cupola superimposed upon a large dome.

Next day in the forenoon, we again arrived at Sydney; where we remained from March 10th to May 21st, employing the time in completing our charts, sending home tracings of them, and preparing for our cruise on the Northern coast. I was glad to find the return meridian distance between Port Phillip and Sydney agree with the going one, placing the jetty at William's Town 6 degrees 19 minutes 14 seconds west of Fort Macquarie.

DROUGHT AT SYDNEY.

Everything was still suffering from one of those fearful droughts that occasionally visit this colony, but are as yet unknown in Western Australia, where the seasons are certain, although available land is scarce. An idea may be formed of the nature of this visitation, when I say, that for some time previous to our former departure from Sydney, during the whole of our absence, and for several months subsequent to our return, not a drop of rain fell. The consequence of this was, that the whole country was dried up, and the dust lay on the roads, especially towards Parramatta, at least a foot thick. Whoever attempted to travel, therefore, seemed, if the wind blew, as though he had been pa.s.sing through a mill. It will readily be imagined that so long a succession of dry seasons, did prodigious injury to the stock, and utterly ruined the wheat crops. To add to the distress then occasioned, the people of Tasmania seizing on the opportunity, raised the price of grain, expecting to make a large profit. But their avidity in this instance over-reached itself. Instead of sending to them for corn, the people of Sydney despatched vessels to South America, and as the early cargoes that arrived sold to advantage, a great deal of money was embarked in the speculation. Soon, however, the natural consequence ensued. The market became glutted, cargo after cargo came in, the purchasers held back, prices fell, and in many instances the importers were glad to dispose of their wheat at a rate far inferior to what it had been s.h.i.+pped at. I have no doubt that the financial derangement caused by so large an amount of bullion going out of the country (for all these cargoes were bought with ready money) had much to do with the subsequent depression.

I may here take an opportunity of remarking that, as a general rule, it is the labouring cla.s.ses that thrive best at Sydney. They can in tolerably prosperous times, earn sufficient in three or four days, to support themselves throughout the week. During the remainder of the time, the sober and industrious man employs himself in building a house; but I am sorry to say that the generality repair to the vast number of public houses that swarm on every side, and get drunk. This is evident from the annual revenue derived from rum, which in 1839 was 190,000 pounds, amounting to more than seven gallons for every individual in the colony.

MR. USBORNE LEAVES.

It caused us extreme regret that before our departure from Sydney, we were deprived of Mr. Usborne's valuable services. He was compelled to return home in consequence of the dreadful wound he had received from a musket ball, which, as has already been related, pa.s.sed through his body.

In him the expedition sustained a great loss; his presence and society were missed by all; and his departure was generally felt. It may easily be conceived indeed that the separation from a friend and messmate under such circ.u.mstances, must have cast for a time a shade of sadness over our minds. Mr. Usborne took charge of the charts which we sent to England on this occasion.

MR. CUNNINGHAM.

I cannot leave Sydney without alluding to our meeting with Mr.

Cunningham, the Botanist, whose death I have already mentioned, as having taken place two months after our departure from Sydney. Though worn out by disease, and evidently on the brink of the grave, the fire of enthusiasm kindled in his frame, and his eyes glistened as he talked of our projected enterprise; and it was with difficulty that he could be dissuaded from accompanying us. His name, which will be remembered by his friends on account of his many amiable qualities, will not be forgotten by posterity; for it has become a.s.sociated with the lands he explored, as well as with the natural productions he described. The presence and attention of his valued friend Captain P.P. King, contributed to soothe his last moments.

CHAPTER 1.10. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON.

Leave Sydney.

Gale and Current.

Port Stephens.

Tahlee.

River Karuah.

Stroud.

Wild Cattle.

Incivility of a Settler.

River Allyn.

Mr. Boydell.

Cultivation of Tobacco.

A clearing Lease.

William River.

Crossing the Karuah at Night.

Sail from Port Stephens.

Breaksea Spit.

Discover a Bank.

Cape Capricorn.

Northumberland Isles.

Sandalwood.

Cape Upstart.

Discover a River.

Raised Beach.

Section of Barrier Reef.

Natives.

Plants and Animals.

Magnetical Island.

Halifax Bay.

Height of Cordillera.

Fitzroy Island.

Hope Island.

Verifying Captain King's Original Chart.

Cape Bedford.

New Geological Feature.

Lizard Island.

Captain Cook.

Barrier and Reefs within.

Howick Group.

n.o.ble Island.

Cape Melville.

Reef near Cape Flinders.

Princess Charlotte's Bay.

Section of a detached Reef.

Tide at Claremont Isles.

Restoration Island.

Islands fronting Cape Grenville.

Boydan Island.

Correct Chart.

Tides.

Cairncross Island.

Escape River.

Correct position of Reefs.

York Isles.

Tides.

Torres Strait.

Endeavour Strait.

b.o.o.by Island.

Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs.

Cape Croker and reef off it.

Discover error in longitude of Cape.

Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington.

Arrive at the latter.

May 22.

We again bade adieu to our friends at Sydney, and sailed to explore the north-western part of the continent, which from the number of openings still unexamined, possessed the interest that invariably attaches to whatever is unknown. We submitted, accordingly, with impatience to the delay caused by light north-westerly winds, and a southerly current of nearly a knot per hour, which prevented us from reaching the parallel of Port Macquarie before the 29th; when about forty miles from it we experienced a gale,* from North-East and East-North-East, that lasted till the evening of the next day, when we found ourselves about 140 miles South-East of Port Stephens. During this gale the southerly current increased its velocity to two miles an hour, and its strength appeared to be about seventy miles from the land. This delay rendered it necessary to obtain a fresh chronometric departure, and as the winds prevented our returning to Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port Stephens, where we anch.o.r.ed, June 5th. We found the Admiralty chart of the coast in the neighbourhood very defective, some islands being completely omitted, whilst others were much misplaced.

(*Footnote. This gale was from South-East at Sydney, and the most severe they had experienced for many years; it blew many vessels adrift and did other damage.)