Discoveries in Australia Volume II Part 41

Leaving the Glennie Isles we examined the coast beyond Cape Liptrap;* and from thence made the best of our way to Western Port. There I availed myself of the kind offer of Mr. Anderson--a settler on the Ba.s.s River, who was going to Cape Patterson, to shoot wild cattle, the produce of the stock left behind when the old settlement was abandoned--to give Mr.

Fitzmaurice, and a small party, conveyance in his bullock dray to that projection, for the purpose of determining its position. A party was also landed on the eastern entrance of Grant Island, to collect tidal observations.

(*Footnote. The next headland to Wilson's Promontory, from the extreme of which it bears North-West by West, twenty-four miles; the sh.o.r.e between recedes, forming a bay nine miles deep. The Cape lies in lat.i.tude 38 degrees 55 minutes South, longitude 5 degrees 17 minutes West of Sydney, 145 degrees 57 minutes East, and is the extreme of a tableland three hundred and fifty feet high. A small islet lies close to the sh.o.r.e, about two miles northward from the extreme, where there is a boat cove. Where the rocky coast ceases to the eastward, the sh.o.r.e falls back, affording shelter for vessels in north-west winds; a rock lies off the southern point of this anchorage.)

CORIO HARBOUR.

Having made these arrangements, we left for Port Phillip, where, after landing another party at Shortland's Bluff, also to make tidal observations, we pursued our course round Indented Head towards Corio Harbour, anchoring off Point Henry--where no less than four vessels were lading with wool for England--early on the morning of the 27th. We devoted the remainder of this day and the next to making a plan of the harbour; and from the result of our survey I feel more than ever convinced that the bar (through the northern part of which a channel winds for vessels of eight feet at low-water) might be removed, and the entrance rendered fit for vessels of any draught. There is deep water in the south-western part, close to the northern side of Geelong, where, by erecting wharfs, large s.h.i.+ps might discharge alongside, an advantage which can never be obtained at Melbourne,* and of so great importance that I am induced to believe Geelong will ultimately be the capital of Australia Felix. In this event communication will be held with Melbourne by railroad, for which the country intervening is admirably adapted, being a complete level the entire way. At present a steamer plies daily between the two places; and when we consider that on our last visit, only two years before, Geelong consisted of a few sheds at its north end only, and now stretched across from Corio Harbour to the River Barwon, a s.p.a.ce of more than a mile, the belief seems warranted that at no distant period the line of rail I allude to must be laid down. The towns.h.i.+p is now divided into North and South Geelong; the latter lies on a slope, reaching the river's edge.

(*Footnote. Corio Harbour is in fact the best anchorage in Port Phillip, that at Hobson's Bay being very confined, and scarcely affording any shelter from southerly winds for large s.h.i.+ps. Moreover, Corio Harbour lies more convenient for the western districts, there being no other place where the sheep-farmers of those parts can, with safety, s.h.i.+p their wool, except Portland Bay.)

CAPTAIN FYANS.

Located in a snug house, with a garden teeming with flowers, that reminded one of home, and overlooking a still reach of the Barwon, I found Captain Fyans, of whom I have before spoken.

ENCOUNTER WITH A NATIVE.

In the course of conversation, pointing to a weapon used by the natives, called a Lliangle, resembling a miner's pick, he said, "I had that driven through my horse's nose, a short time since, by a native, of whom I was in pursuit." As I expressed a desire to be made acquainted with the circ.u.mstance, he informed me, that being out with a party of mounted police, in search of some natives who had been committing depredations on the flocks of the settlers, in the neighbourhood of Port Fairey, he suddenly, whilst crossing a valley in advance of his men, came upon the chief of those of whom he was in chase. He, too, was alone; an attack immediately commenced. The native threw his spears, but without effect; and Captain Fyans, finding that the rain had wetted the priming of his pistols, charged to cut him down; but such was his antagonist's dexterity in defending himself with his s.h.i.+eld, only a narrow piece of wood, that beyond a few nicks on the fingers, Captain Fyans' sword-cuts were of no avail. Several times he attempted to ride over the native; who, however, doubled himself up in a ball under his s.h.i.+eld, and was saved by the natural reluctance of a horse to trample on a prostrate man in going over him. After having been apparently more than once ridden down, the chief managed to drive his lliangle through the horse's nose, and so firmly that he was unable to withdraw it. The wound inflicted bled so freely that Captain Fyans was obliged to pull up, and the native made his escape. He was not only a fine fellow in conduct, but in person, having a chest, as Captain Fyans expressed it, like a bullock's. I afterwards learned that he displayed the sword-cuts upon his s.h.i.+eld in triumph at some of the sheep-stations.

From Corio Harbour* we proceeded to Hobson's Bay, for a meridian distance, the result of which was highly satisfactory, differing from our former measurement only five seconds. The longitude, therefore, of Batman's Hill, 6 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds West of Sydney, or (approximately) 144 degrees 59 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich, may be relied on.

(*Footnote. The approach to this harbour would be vastly improved by a buoy placed at the end of the spit extending nearly across from Point Wilson on the north sh.o.r.e.)

MELBOURNE.

A great improvement had been made since our last visit in the approach to the anchorage, by the erection of a light on Point Gellibrand.* This we found to be a small lamp fixed at the top of a kind of wooden framework, thirty feet high, suggested by the superintendent, Mr. LaTrobe; and for a temporary economical affair, until a more expensive light can be afforded, it is certainly a clever contrivance.

(*Footnote. This light may be seen from a s.h.i.+p's deck, in clear weather, seven miles off. Vessels intending to anchor in Hobson's Bay should keep the light bearing North-West by North until the water shoals to 6 fathoms; then steer North by West. When the lights of William Town open out, bearing South-West by West, haul in West-South-West for the anchorage. The best berth is in 3 1/2 fathoms, with the light bearing South 1/4 East and the jetty at William Town South-West 1/2 West.)

The last three years had also made great additions to the buildings of William Town; but Melbourne had so increased that we hardly knew it again. Wharfs and stores fronted the banks of the Yarra-yarra; whilst further down, tanners and soap-boilers had established themselves on either side, where, formerly, had been tea-tree thickets, from which the cheerful pipe of the bell-bird greeted the visitor. Very different, however, were now the sights, and sounds, and smells, that a.s.sailed our senses; the picturesque wilderness had given place to the unromantic realities of industry; and the reign of business had superseded that of poetry and romance.

MANNA.

Near Melbourne I again noticed the manna mentioned above, but had no opportunity of making further observations upon it. Mr. Bynoe, however, having since visited Australia, has turned his attention to the subject, and the result of his experience, which will be found below, tends to overthrow the opinion I have previously expressed, to the effect, that this substance is the exudation of a tree, not the deposit of an insect.*

(*Footnote. There is a prevailing opinion in some parts of New Holland, particularly on the east side, that the gumtrees distil a peculiar form of manna, which drops at certain seasons of the year. I have heard it from many of the inhabitants, who, on a close investigation, could only say, that it was to be found adhering to the old and young bark of the trees, as well as strewed on the ground beneath.

In the month of December, about the warmest period of the year, during my rambles through the forest in search of insects, I met with this manna in the above-mentioned state, but could never find in any part of the bark a fissure or break whence such a substance could flow. Wherever it appeared, moreover, the red-eyed cicadae were in abundance. I was inclined to think that the puncture produced by these suctorial insects into the tender shoots for juice, would in all probability give an exit for such a substance; but by wounding the tender branches with a sharp-pointed knife, I could never obtain a saccharine fluid or substance. It was the season when the cicadae were abundantly collected together for reproduction; and on warm, clear, still days, they clung to the more umbrageous parts, particularly to trees that, having been deprived of old limbs, shot forth vigorous stems, thickly cl.u.s.tered with leaves. To one of these, in which the male insects were making an intolerable noise, I directed my steps, and quietly sheltered myself from a hot wind that was crossing the harbour, bringing with it a dense column of smoke, which for a short time shut out the powerful rays of the sun. I found that the ground about the root of the tree was thinly covered with the sugar-like substance, and in a few minutes I felt that a fluid was dropping, which soon congealed on my clothes into a white substance. On rising cautiously to ascertain from whence it came, with a full determination not to disturb the insects but to watch their pursuits, I observed that it was pa.s.sing of a syrup-like consistence per anum from the cicadae. As it ran down the smooth branches of the gumtree and over the leaves it gradually congealed, and formed a white efflorescence.

Whilst ejecting this fluid, the insect raised the lower part of the abdomen and pa.s.sed off three or four drops in sudden jets, which either streamed down the stem, or fell on the leaves or ground.

I watched them for nearly half an hour, and in that s.p.a.ce of time observed between twenty and thirty distil this fluid, which gradually concreted into a white substance. I collected above three ounces, some of which I still have in my possession. The natives gather it in their rush baskets and use it as a part of their food.)

RED BLUFF.

Leaving Hobson's Bay we pa.s.sed along the east sh.o.r.e of Port Phillip in search of a ledge of rocks, reported to lie about three miles off Red Bluff, which is eight miles to the southward of the above-mentioned bay.

We, however, found this danger to be nothing more than the extreme of the reef fronting that bluff for a distance of half a mile, in a West by North direction, and which has three feet on it at low-water, with three fathoms just outside. As the soundings gradually decrease to this depth, the lead will always keep a s.h.i.+p clear of it.

Anchoring under Arthur's Seat, I delivered the letters with which Mr.

Powlett, Commissioner of Crown Lands at Melbourne, had kindly furnished me, to the different settlers in the neighbourhood, requesting them to afford me every a.s.sistance in my contemplated visit to Cape Shanck, for the purpose of determining its position.

DR. BARKER.

One of them was addressed to a gentleman residing close to the Cape, Dr.

Barker, to whom it was forwarded, and who returned with the messenger to welcome me to his station, and in the most liberal manner placed at my disposal, his horses and his services.

ARTHUR'S SEAT.

Early the following morning, a well mounted party of us started for Arthur's Seat. I wished to get a few angles from its summit, and to show to Captain Bunbury, R.N., Superintendent of Water Police at Melbourne, the banks at the eastern entrance of the South Channel. Dr. Barker had brought his dogs over with him, to show us some sport on our way to Cape Shanck. They formed quite a pack; and among them were two bloodhounds of a celebrated Duke's breed at home. Their deep rich notes as they wound round the foot of Arthur's Seat, after a kangaroo, were quite cheering to the heart; but the ground was too hilly for the fast dogs, and too dry for the scent to lie.

I was disappointed in not seeing Port Western from Arthur's Seat, which had one of those unsatisfactory woody summits, of which it is difficult exactly to ascertain the highest part. We pa.s.sed a spring of water near the south-eastern foot, and in a level beyond were some large lagoons.

Our course was now bent towards Cape Shanck, lying eight miles to the south. The first part lay over a level open woodland country; low hills then made their appearance, becoming more numerous as we neared our destination. At their commencement we turned off the road to look for a kangaroo; a herd was soon found; but all, after a sharp burst of a few miles, got away from us.

KILLING A KANGAROO.

When both horses and dogs had regained their wind we went to better ground, and came suddenly on a fine herd. A large male, called an Old Man by the colonists, loitering to protect the does under his care, was singled out by the fastest dog; and a splendid run ensued; the country, however, being rather woody, and strewed with fallen timber which was concealed by long gra.s.s, only those who risked the pace over it enjoyed the sport. The dogs stuck well to their game, and coming at last to an open piece of ground, the fleetest began to close with the Old Man, who was covering an immense s.p.a.ce in each bound. At length the dog reached the kangaroo's quarters, and burying his teeth in them, made him face about, cutting at his pursuer, who kept out of reach, with his hind feet, and then turning round and endeavouring to escape. But the same liberty being again taken with his haunches he was once more brought to bay. The rest of the pack now came up, and a fine half-bloodhound rushed in and seized the kangaroo* by the throat; whilst the latter, in return, fiercely clutched the dog round the neck; a violent struggle ensued, each trying to choke the other. Although the dog that had first reached the Old Man was biting his quarters, the danger that the game hound would be laid open by a cut from the kangaroo's hind feet, determined Dr. Barker and myself to watch an opportunity of creeping up behind a tree to a.s.sist in the struggle. We accordingly did so, and managed to seize the animal by his monstrous tail, so that by keeping a strain on it he was prevented from lifting his hind leg, as if he had we should have pulled him over.

(*Footnote. Although these animals have a most innocent countenance, the large males are very dangerous when brought to bay. I know an instance of a gentleman, who was endeavouring to a.s.sist his dog in killing one of them, having his clothes severed in front and the skin of his body just scratched by a cut from the hind leg. Had this person been any nearer the kangaroo, his bowels would have been torn open. The middle toe projecting and being armed with a strong nail, enable them to inflict dreadful wounds, and frequently to kill dogs. It is seldom, indeed, that they will attack a kangaroo in front; old dogs never do, but have a very clever way of throwing the smaller kind by the stump of the tail when running.)

The dogs, thus protected from injury, were at last victorious; and the kangaroo, a great beast, weighing nearly two hundred pounds, was soon stretched on the ground.

CAPE SHANCK.

Having secured the tail and hind feet we continued our road to Dr.

Barker's station, situated in one of the rich valleys I have spoken of, in an early part of the work, as lying a mile and a half to the North-East of Cape Shanck.

On account of the state of the weather we were obliged to tax this gentleman's hospitality for two nights, both the early parts of which were pa.s.sed on Cape Shanck, watching between the clouds for observations.

This cape is a narrow projection of calcareous formation, rendered remarkable by a pulpit-shaped rock lying close off it. About a mile to the north is a hill 190 feet high, which has been selected for the site of a lighthouse for showing vessels their position off the entrance of Port Phillip. Being so distant, however, it is of more service for Port Western.

From Dr. Barker I received some curious information respecting the Aborigines. It appears that there is great hostility between the Port Phillip and Gipps' Land natives, who occasionally visit each other's territory for the purposes of war. So great is the feeling of enmity between them, that they will frequently take a piece of the flesh of their foes and pa.s.s it through the skin of their thighs or arms, where they leave it until it withers.

SOUTH CHANNEL.

Returning to the s.h.i.+p we placed a buoy* on the five-fathom bar at the eastern entrance of the South Channel, the bearings from which are Whale Head South 33 degrees West, and Arthur's Seat South 79 degrees East; Points Nepean and Lonsdale being a little open. Pa.s.sing through this channel,** we spent an afternoon within the heads for the purpose of visiting the lighthouse just built on Shortland's Bluff.*** This I found to be 108 feet high; the lantern, to contain a fixed light, had not been established. The position of this light being so far within the entrance it is only visible between South-West 1/2 West, and South 1/4 West; and a light placed at the extremity of the rocky ledge off Point Nepean would be of infinitely more service in showing vessels the entrance of the port.

(*Footnote. Another buoy at the east extremity of the bank on the north side of the channel, which is very steep to, and one at the west end of the bank on the south side, would render the navigation free from difficulty, as the banks on either side can be readily made out.)

(**Footnote. The directions for entering by this line-of-battle s.h.i.+p channel are as follows. After pa.s.sing Point Nepean steer for Arthur's Seat, keeping Point Flinders open south of Lonsdale Point until the last cliffy projection is pa.s.sed and bears South 1/4 West. Then steer half a point to the left of Arthur's Seat, shutting in Point Flinders with Point Nepean, and keeping Point Lonsdale a little open of the latter. The buoy at the eastern entrance will now soon be made out, and should be kept in line with Arthur's Seat. Pa.s.s on the north side of the buoy and then haul up South-East until the water shoals to five fathoms, or until Whale Head bears South-West by West; then steer North-East by East for Mount Martha, the next hill north of Arthur's Seat, until the latter bears South-East, when a course may be shaped for Hobson's Bay.)

(***Footnote. The patch of dark bushes, breaking the sand beach to the northward, and forming one of the leading marks in, had been so thinned that it was very indistinct. Mr. LaTrobe, however, was going to remedy this evil by erecting a beacon on that spot.)

Whilst we were at Port Phillip this time, a schooner left in a somewhat mysterious manner, on board of which was the Honourable Mr. Murray, who fell afterwards in a conflict with the pirates at Borneo. The particulars of this gallant affair must be fresh in the recollection of my readers.

TIDES AT PORT PHILLIP.

Leaving Port Phillip,* we returned to Port Western to pick up the party we had left there. Mr. Fitzmaurice found Cape Patterson, of which I have before spoken, to lie fourteen miles South-West by West 1/2 West from the eastern entrance of Port Western,** and twenty-one miles North 55 degrees West from Cape Liptrap, the next headland to the eastward.

(*Footnote. The result of the tidal observations made at Shortland's Bluff, gives 12 hours 20 minutes for the time of high-water on the full and change days. The simultaneous ones made in other parts of this great sheet of water during our stay, gave the times of high-water later as follows: