Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 9

Prepare Chicken Broth. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add 1 cup champagne. Cook, stirring constantly, until champagne has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time, about 10 minutes. During remaining 10 minutes of cooking, add champagne 1 cup at a time instead of broth. Do not add more champagne until previous amount has been absorbed. Rice is done when it is tender but firm to the bite. Stir in cup Parmesan cheese and remaining b.u.t.ter. Season with salt.

Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with remaining Parmesan cheese.

DANTE'S RISOTTO Risotto Dante Prepare the vegetables ahead and the cooking will be a snap.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 carrot, halved 1 carrot, halved 1 celery stalk, halved 1 celery stalk, halved 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine pound small white mushrooms, thinly sliced pound small white mushrooms, thinly sliced (10-ounce) pkg. thawed frozen spinach, finely chopped (10-ounce) pkg. thawed frozen spinach, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley pound prosciutto, page 4, finely chopped pound prosciutto, page 4, finely chopped cup whipping cream cup whipping cream Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Fill a small saucepan one-third full with water. Bring water to a boil. Add carrot and celery. Cook over medium heat until barely tender. Finely chop carrot and celery.

Prepare Chicken Broth. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep hot over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is almost done, 10 to 15 minutes. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet. Add mushrooms. Saute until golden. Add sauteed mushrooms, spinach, carrot, celery, parsley, prosciutto and cream to rice mixture. Mix well and season with salt. Cook about 5 minutes longer.When rice is tender but firm to the bite, stir in cup of the Parmesan cheese and remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter. Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with remaining Parmesan cheese.

RISOTTO MILAN STYLE.

Risotto alla Milanese This golden risotto and Veal Shanks Milan Style, page 151, are traditionally served together.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine teaspoon saffron teaspoon saffron cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is done, 15 to 20 minutes. Rice should be tender but firm to the bite.

In a small bowl, dissolve saffron in a little hot broth and add to rice mixture. Stir in cup Parmesan cheese and remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter. Season with salt. Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

PUMPKIN RISOTTO.

Risotto con la Zucca Pumpkin gives a delicate taste to this risotto from Lombardy.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 pound pumpkin 1 pound pumpkin 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare Chicken Broth. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Peel pumpkin and discard seeds. Cut pumpkin into very small pieces. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add pumpkin and mix well. Add 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover pumpkin mixture. Cook uncovered over medium heat 10 minutes. Stir in rice and 1 cup broth. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is done, 15 to 20 minutes. Rice should be tender but firm to the bite. Add cup Parmesan cheese and 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter; mix well.

Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS.

Risotto con Punte di Asparagi Make this dish in the summer months when asparagus is at its peak.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 pounds asparagus, smallest available 1 pounds asparagus, smallest available 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine cup whipping cream cup whipping cream cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth.

Clean asparagus and cut off tips. Reserve stalks for another use.

Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Add more broth as liquid is absorbed. After 10 minutes add asparagus tips. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is done, about 10 minutes. Rice should be tender but firm to the bite. Add cream, cup Parmesan cheese and remaining b.u.t.ter; mix gently. Season with salt.

Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

Fish and Sh.e.l.lfish

Italy is a long, thin peninsula with the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Mediterranean Sea to the west. No wonder Italians are great fish lovers! But if you leave the Italian seacoasts and go inland, you will find fish consumption is less than you would expect from a country practically surrounded by water.

I was born in Emilia-Romagna. The Emilia side is inland; the Romagna side has a seacoast. In my family, fish was eaten maybe two or three times a month. But I would readily get into a car with family or friends and drive to the coastal town of Rimini to eat the fresh catch of the day. Everybody knew the best fish to be had was at the coast.

Restaurants of the area specialized in excellently prepared fish. Inside these restaurants, fish was generally displayed on a long table with some fish still alive inside large containers of water. You would choose the fish you preferred, then 10 minutes later it would arrive on your plate, broiled, fried, or poached.

What could be better than a fresh batch of shrimp coated lightly with a parsley-garlic mixture and broiled for the briefest time? Or a large pot of clams, simmered in a fresh tomato and herb sauce and served over pasta? Or fresh sole, cooked in a b.u.t.ter-lemon sauce? Italians do not camouflage fish under rich, heavy sauces, but complement them with delicate flavors.

In addition to the marvelously simple fish dishes, every coastal town in Italy has its own fish soup. Whether it is Broeto Broeto from Venice, from Venice, Cacciucco Cacciucco from Leghorn, or from Leghorn, or Ciuppin Ciuppin from Liguria, each region claims its own fish soup is the best. from Liguria, each region claims its own fish soup is the best.

The first thing to do when buying fish is to make sure it is fresh. If fish has the head still on, look at the eyes. They should be bright and rounded, not sunken. Look for a moist, s.h.i.+ny skin.The body should be firm and compact, not mushy. Fish should have a fresh ocean smell. If you don't plan to use fresh fish the same day, place the wrapped fish in a plastic bag and seal it tightly. Put the fish in the coldest part of your refrigerator immediately. Use it within two days.

Frozen fish tends to lose part of its precious moisture as it thaws.This leaves the fish mushy. When you use frozen fish, thaw it in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Don't leave fish at room temperature or it will thaw too quickly and some of its juices will be lost.

Fish and sh.e.l.lfish need only a short cooking time. When in doubt, undercook fish, rather than overcooking it. If the flesh flakes easily when pierced with a fork or knife, the fish is cooked. Sh.e.l.lfish is cooked when it is opaque all the way through. If the center of sh.e.l.lfish is transparent, it should be cooked longer.

Fish is high in protein, minerals and vitamins. It is also low in calories. Unfortunately the price of fish today is considerably higher than it used to be. One way to save money is to buy when fish is in season and plentiful. Many dishes in this chapter can be used as appetizers or main courses. Some dishes, like Prawns with Tomato and Garlic, can also become a divine sauce for pasta. Serve fish accompanied by chilled white wine and you will have a perfect union.

I hope the recipes in this chapter will encourage you to try simple but exciting ways to cook fish the Northern Italian way.

WHITE FISH IN SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE.

Pesce Bianco in Dolce Forte This elegant, mouthwatering dish can be done quickly and easily with a nonstick skillet.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 white fish fillets, such as orange roughy, sole or halibut (about 1 pounds) 4 white fish fillets, such as orange roughy, sole or halibut (about 1 pounds) 1 cup all-purpose flour, spread on foil 1 cup all-purpose flour, spread on foil 2 large eggs, lightly beaten in a bowl 2 large eggs, lightly beaten in a bowl 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cups dry white wine 1 cups dry white wine Juice of 2 lemons Juice of 2 lemons cup sugar cup sugar Salt to taste Salt to taste

Coat fish fillets lightly with flour, shaking off excess. Dip in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto fish with the palms of your hands. Set aside.

Melt 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with oil in a large, preferably nonstick, skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams add fish. Cook over medium heat until golden, about 2 minutes on each side. Place fish on a platter.

Discard the fat from the skillet. Add remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to skillet. When the b.u.t.ter foams add the wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced by half. Add lemon juice, sugar and salt to taste. Cook, stirring, over high heat about 1 minute. Return the fish to the skillet and cook 1 minute longer, stirring and moving the fish gently. At this point the sauce should have a thick consistency.

Arrange fish on serving dishes, pour a few tablespoons of sauce over each serving and serve at once.

FISH IN FOIL.

Pesce al Cartoccio Fish cooked in foil or parchment paper retains all its flavor and moisture.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 (3- to 3-pound) sea ba.s.s, striped ba.s.s or red snapper, cleaned 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 (3- to 3-pound) sea ba.s.s, striped ba.s.s or red snapper, cleaned 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon cup olive oil cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Lemon wedges Lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). Wash fish thoroughly under cold running water. Dry with paper towels. In a small bowl, combine garlic, rosemary, parsley, lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper. Cut a large piece of aluminum foil or parchment paper to twice the size of fish. Lay fish on foil or paper. Fill fish with half the garlic-rosemary mixture. Spread remaining mixture over top of fish. Fold foil or paper over fish. Pleat edges to seal tightly. Place in a baking dish.

Bake 10 minutes per pound, 30 to 35 minutes. Place fish on a board and open foil or paper. Gently remove skin from fish. Cut top half of fish lengthwise into 2 servings and place on plates. Lift off backbone and any loose bones from fish. Divide remaining fish into 2 servings and place on plates. Spoon fish juices over each serving. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon wedges.

Variation Trout in Foil (Trota al Cartoccio): Subst.i.tute 4 trout that have been cleaned but their heads and tails left on.Wrap each trout individually. Let guests unwrap their fish at the table.

FRIED SOLE FILLETS.

Filetti di Sogliola Dorati Sole fillets, breaded and fried lightly in b.u.t.ter, retain all their moisture and delicate flavor.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 sole fillets 4 sole fillets 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil Lemon wedges Lemon wedges

Spread flour and bread crumbs separately on 2 pieces of aluminum foil. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Coat fish with flour, shaking off excess. Dip in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto fish with the palms of your hands. Let coated fish stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet.When b.u.t.ter foams, add fish. Cook over medium heat until golden, 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Place fish on a warm platter. Garnish with lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

MARINATED SOLE VENETIAN STYLE.

Sogliola in Saor This is a very old Venetian dish with an unusual combination of ingredients.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS cup raisins cup raisins cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour 6 sole fillets 6 sole fillets cup olive oil cup olive oil Salt to taste Salt to taste 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 large onions, thinly sliced cup white wine vinegar cup white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon sugar cup pine nuts cup pine nuts 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Put raisins in a small bowl. Add enough warm water to cover. Let stand 20 minutes, then drain.

Spread flour on aluminum foil. Coat fillets with flour, shaking off excess.