Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham Part 4

The student of architecture will find very much to interest him in this Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture and variety in the capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to mention the rich carving of the vaulting bosses and capitals of the vaulting shafts, will well repay his earnest study.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Galilee Chapel.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Galilee Chapel.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Capital in Galilee Chapel.]

The #Galilee# or #Lady Chapel# is situated at the west end of the nave. It is well known that for some reason women were not allowed to enter any church where S. Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church dedicated to him. At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for them, and at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose.

It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, but there is no proof that he ever issued such a command. The Venerable Bede makes no mention of any special feeling of antipathy to women on the part of the saint. Bede was contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert forty-eight years. Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it is certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from the churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circ.u.mstance we owe, in the chapel under our consideration, the most beautiful and perfect example of Transitional Norman architecture existing in England.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Paintings in the Galilee Chapel.]

Let us recall briefly the circ.u.mstances attending its erection. Hugh Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to 1195, commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the church. The work had not gone far before accidents happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the walls, which the builder thought "gave manifest indication that it was not acceptable to G.o.d and His servant S. Cuthbert."[5] The work was therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced at the west end of the church, "into which women might lawfully enter, so that they who had not bodily access to the secret things of the holy place, might have some solace from the contemplation of them" (Geoffrey de Coldingham).

Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases he had previously brought from "beyond the sea," and intended to be used in the construction of his chapel at the east end. Entering the chapel by the steps leading from the Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed with the lightness and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with the ma.s.sive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we have, in fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced by the rapidly developing Early English Gothic. In plan the chapel consists of a nave with double aisles, which perhaps might be more properly called five aisles. These are divided by arcades, each of which is of four bays.

These arches and the columns which support them are the chief beauty and characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of one order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and one on the soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are light and graceful and carved with a volute, and the columns cl.u.s.ters of marble and freestone shafts. The arches, however, rest on the marble columns, which are, no doubt, those previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. The stone shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not carry any of the weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an addition, probably in the time of Cardinal Langley, when they must have been added, with a view to improving the appearance. The dimensions of the chapel are forty-seven feet from east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to south. The existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls above what were once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady of Pity, remains of fresco painting may be noticed, all that remains of what has evidently been beautiful work. These were only brought to light by the removal of successive coats of whitewash with which they had been covered.

[5] Geoffrey de Coldingham.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Galilee Chapel.]

When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was by the great west door of the cathedral. This was, however, closed up by Cardinal Langley, who constructed the two doorways at the end of the aisles by which the chapel is now entered. Those portions of the Norman wall arcading, which had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of the new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great west door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the west doorway was re-opened. Langley's two doorways have four centred arches enclosed beneath a square label moulding, with s.h.i.+elds bearing the Cardinal's coat-of-arms in each spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the five ma.s.sive b.u.t.tresses on the exterior of the western wall of the chapel, which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it was decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the walls above the arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar effect to the interior.

The original roof lines can still be made out on the west wall. Of the contents of the chapel remaining, perhaps the most interesting to the visitor is the grave and site of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The shrine, like that of S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the stone slab on which it once stood, and which bears the inscription (placed there in 1831):

Hac sunt in Fossa Baedae Venerabilis Ossa

This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for him the t.i.tle Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. Of his parentage we know nothing, except that, from his own writings, he was born in the territory of the Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years old he moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at Jarrow. He had able and learned teachers in Benedict Bishop and Ceolfrid, and appears to have turned his advantages to the best account. Deacon at nineteen, and priest at twenty-nine years of age, he led a holy and studious life.

After his ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and writings on all the known sciences--geography, arithmetic, and astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his "Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we owe all our knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into Great Britain, and the early history of the English Church. It is dedicated to King Ceolwulf. His information was collected from various sources--by letter as to Canterbury, by communication with bishops and priors as to England generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent tradition as to Northumbria. He lived most of his long life between the monasteries of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 his remains were secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the most unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a portion of them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. From here they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed in the newly-erected Galilee Chapel, where he caused them to be enclosed in a magnificent shrine.

"There, in a silver casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of Venerable Bede, and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it."[6]

When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, in 1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, where they remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that year they were exhumed and examined, and, after being enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were replaced in the tomb, with a parchment giving full details of the exhumation. Some coins and a ring which were found at this time are preserved in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.

[6] "Rites of Durham."

In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, Cardinal Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the princ.i.p.al altar.

On its head may be seen three s.h.i.+elds bearing the arms of the cardinal.

Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained beautiful stained gla.s.s, a most careful description of which may be found in the "Rites of Durham."

Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" Chapel has been the subject of much discussion and conjecture, and is still a matter of uncertainty. That it was erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, be no doubt. In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will notice a dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman was allowed to pa.s.s eastward.

#Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.#--The church of Durham is not rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. This is to be accounted for partly by the fact that for some centuries the Bishops of the diocese were interred in the chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have been lost or destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 1367, when Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for himself and his wife, the Lady Alice de Neville, who was buried in 1374. This monument occupies the third sub-bay from the east, on the south side of the nave.

It is an altar tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient remains to enable us to see that it was once a well-designed and n.o.ble monument.

Its mouldings are bold, and there are indications of the places where figures were once attached to the sides. The rec.u.mbent effigies of the n.o.ble lord and his wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, hopelessly smashed. It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this honour for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay westward is the tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 1386. This is also an altar tomb, and has suffered severely, though it remains in a better state of preservation than the one just described. Its sides each have six niches, with elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, while the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving of the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the niches are two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a s.h.i.+eld with the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the rec.u.mbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also be distinguished in places on the monument.

Close to this is the slab and matrix of a bra.s.s to Robert Neville, who was bishop of the diocese from 1438 to 1457. The bra.s.s has all been removed, but the matrix shows a dignified figure of the bishop holding a crozier and a scroll, while an inscription formerly existed on a plate at his feet. Bishop Neville was known for his generous qualities, as well as for his high descent.

In the western wall, on its south side, near to the entrance to the Galilee, is a mural tablet to a former Prebendary in the cathedral, and a well-known antiquary, Sir George Wheler, who died in the latter part of the seventeenth century. On the northern side is a slab to the memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while charging a Sikh battery at Ferozeshah.

Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern altar tomb to a former headmaster of Durham Grammar School, the Rev. James Britton, D.D., erected by his pupils. It is surmounted by a reclining figure of Dr. Britton, in academic robes, reading a book.

In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 to 1826, dying at the advanced age of 92 years, beloved by all. He was a great prelate, and used his immense powers as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The kneeling figure, with bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an att.i.tude of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Durham Light Infantry who were slain or died during the Crimean War.

Near to this is a recently inserted bra.s.s to the memory of the officers and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in Egypt and the Soudan.

In the north transept we may give some attention to a monument to the Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of Durham School. It was erected to his memory by his pupils. The monument was designed by Rickman, and is in the style known as Decorated Gothic.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Font and Cover.]

The #Font# stands at the west end of the nave. It is a comparatively modern work, covered by a tall wooden canopy which was erected by Bishop Cosin in 1663. The original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish prisoners in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington Church, where it is now in use, its place being filled by the present modern one. It is designed in the Norman style, and is square, supported on short columns. The sides are carved with medallions, copied from illuminated MSS., which represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the seventeenth century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic mixture of Cla.s.sic and Gothic forms and details.

CHAPTER IV

HISTORY OF THE SEE

The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no determined opposition, continually made piratical incursions, and eventually, through the treachery of three chieftains, the Castle of Bamburgh fell into their hands. After an interval of three or four months peace was made with the invaders, and Aldhun and his monks ventured to return towards Chester-le-Street. It was during this journey, at a place called Wredelau, that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the Bishopric of Durham.

#Aldhun# may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. He held the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. Aldhun it was who built the first or White Church, now destroyed. It is extremely probable that some of the stones of this church were used in the foundations of Carileph's choir and apses.

After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three years, when he was succeeded by

#Edmund# (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could not agree as to who should succeed Aldhun, when one day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a joke, "Why not appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they took him at his word, and, after much persuasion and fasting and prayer, he was consecrated. The choice was a good one. Edmund was an energetic and beloved prelate. He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most important events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but was beaten off, with great slaughter, and the heads of many of his men were exposed in the market-place.

#Egelric# (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an alien, and made himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. With the intention of rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden church at Chester-le-Street, which had been the seat of the bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A large quant.i.ty of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, where he soon followed it. Before resigning the see of Durham, however, he secured the appointment of his brother to the bishopric. Some years later William the Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in the matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster, where he died in 1072.

#Egelwin# (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of his brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and Morcar, and, like his predecessor, died in prison. He was the last of the Saxon bishops.

#Walcher# (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in great disorder and made many changes. He filled most of the sees by the appointment of Norman bishops. To Durham he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of gentle disposition, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of his own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by the people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At length a n.o.ble, named Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with them, and in their rage they had him a.s.sa.s.sinated. The people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied any knowledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here a tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, short rede, slay ye the bishop," and eventually setting fire to the church. The bishop was eventually reduced to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with his robe, went out. He was immediately slain on the threshold, and dreadfully mutilated. His body was removed by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards to Durham, where he was buried.

#William of S. Carileph# (1080-1096) was next appointed bishop. He was a man of great attainments. To him we owe the founding of the present cathedral. Carileph also made an important change, by the removal from Durham of the secular clergy, and their replacement by Benedictine monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the Bishop and Prior Turgot being present. He did not live to see it very far advanced, being taken ill at Windsor. He died about Christmas 1096.

#Ranulph Flambard# (1099-1128).--The see was kept vacant for three years by William Rufus, when he appointed Flambard, a great builder. He built the nave and aisles, the west doorway and lower part of the western towers, and vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate Bridge over the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church, Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the Tweed.

#Galfrid Rufus# (1133-1140) was his successor. His episcopate was much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The chapter-house was finished during his time of office.

#William de S. Barbara# (1143-1152) was next appointed. Extraordinary events marked his election. William c.u.min, chancellor of the Scottish king, attempted to take the bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far as to capture the castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop was not able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election.

c.u.min submitted in 1144.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Crypt.]

#Hugh Pudsey# (1153-1195) now succeeded to the bishopric at the age of twenty-five. He bought for life the earldom of Northumberland and the manor of Sadberg. In 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the Saracens spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out s.h.i.+ps and galleys in a most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for himself of solid silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked in the crusade, however. The king died, and Richard his son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop Pudsey and Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern and southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, and committed to the Tower. He soon obtained his release, but was compelled to resign the earldom of Northumberland. In 1195 he undertook a journey to London to see the king, and endeavour to obtain rest.i.tution of his honours and possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the way, at Howden. His work in the cathedral we have seen. He also built the great hall of the castle, most of the beautiful Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and the Elvet Bridge over the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at Sherburn, near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second only to the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful manner the rapid development of the change which was taking place in architectural style during Pudsey's time.

#Philip de Pictavia# (1197-1208), elected at the urgent request of the king. He was continually at loggerheads with his clergy. He supported King John against the Pope, and was for this excommunicated; died in 1208, and was buried in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is said to have had the permission of the king to coin money at Durham.

#Richard de Marisco# (1217-1226) was elected after an interval of nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued during his episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church of Durham should have no peace while he lived; threatened that if a monk should show himself beyond his cloister he should lose his head; and once, when his servants had beaten a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a pity they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 1226.