By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 5

Since the yacht lingered here until Monday, August 7th, we were enabled to become familiar with its broad streets, regularly laid out and well shaded; some adorned by beautiful private residences. The heavy, black clouds that had shrouded the whole sky ever since we made our entry in Port Huron, were yet concealing the golden disk of the summer sun. The atmosphere, however, which had previously a disagreeable, wet chilliness in it, gradually grew clearer and warmer so that we left the dock with the intention to undertake our voyage on Lake Huron, but when nearing the place where this sheet of water, covering an area of 23,000 square miles, communicates with River St. Clair, we discovered that the swell on the lake level was yet quite considerable, whereas the wind which had blown a gale all the preceding day, was gradually dying away.

Still, we found it advisable to wait until the foaming waves of the enraged element had been appeased. In consequence of this decision we concluded to moor the yacht as near the entrance of Lake Huron, as we conveniently could, ready for an early departure; for which we considered the town of _Sarnia_, opposite Port Huron, the most favorable locality.

Romantically situated on the Canadian sh.o.r.e, Sarnia affords a splendid north and west view. Its handsome streets and neat structures are quite attractive to the stranger; and not these alone but also the residents who are generous and hospitable. We observed this fact, even during our short stay, when receiving the visit of Mr. Clark and his amiable lady, who presented us with a bouquet of fragrant flowers, a kind gift that we highly appreciated.

Long ere the east became purple with the morning light and the pinnacles of Sarnia were bathed, one by one, in the glory of its burning, we departed from the pleasant city, and the white sea-bird "Marguerite"

spread her light wings over the surface of Lake Huron, whose waves--although the wind was quite fresh--did not run as high as I antic.i.p.ated; for I had been informed that on the previous day the tide from the lake into Detroit River amounted to eight miles an hour.

As I was pacing up and down the deck, I viewed an inland-sea 270 miles long, and 105 miles broad, with a picturesque coast line on our left. The purity of its waters was discernible by its limpid appearance and savory taste. The fine deposits of sand and clay extending at different places along the sh.o.r.e to a distance of twenty miles inland, by their contrasts added to the scenic beauty, exhibiting a variety of magnificent views.

The luxuriant coast bordering on the southern extremity of the lake and skirting the peninsula of Michigan and southwestern Ontario--though comparatively flat--is not void of charming features; being lined with numerous pretty villages imbosomed among gentle slopes that were covered with the richest verdure. These hamlets, situated in the quiet valleys and shaded glens, alternated with extensive fields and orchards exuberant with fertility.

Speeding along on the wavy surface of the lake, we gained sight of the breakwater of _Sand Beach_ when the noon-tide of the day had not yet arrived.

We first visited the village of Sand Beach, and returned at nightfall to the breakwater, which is five miles distant from the former; here the yacht was cabled to the dock. Near our halting place there stood a lofty tower, whose illuminating apparatus threw a radiant, vari-colored light on the dark surface of Lake Huron.

Upon expressing a desire to visit the Light Tower, Mr. James, who never left any of our wishes unfulfilled, immediately made arrangements with the keeper; and, accordingly, we were invited to intrust ourselves to his guidance.

He informed us that the structure rested on a foundation consisting of a concrete ma.s.s, nine feet below the water line. Having ascended four flights of iron-wrought winding stairs, we reached the top of the circular structure; it having a diameter of twenty-four feet at its base, and rising to an elevation of fifty-seven feet.

With great interest we inspected the revolving lights, exhibiting an ingenious piece of machinery, the invention of Finisterre and Barren in Paris, and representing a value of $1,800. This apparatus for rotating lamps is far superior to that for a fixed light.

The characteristic of the latter is to constantly illuminate the whole horizon, requiring all the rays to fall simultaneously on the navigable track, whereas the demands made of a revolving light, are not nearly so great; only each point of the horizon being lighted at successive periods.

When the dark intervals occur, the rays from the flame which are then pointing toward the obscure s.p.a.ces, have their direction so altered laterally as to pa.s.s into the adjoining bright places; and so increase the power of the luminous flashes. A revolving light, though supplied by a flame of the same strength as a fixed, will thus necessarily be raised to a higher degree; for it does not lose its power by diffusing the rays constantly over the whole horizon, but gathers them up into a number of separate beams of greater intensity.

The lights made to revolve by means of clockwork, were fed with mineral oil, a refined kerosine; and the refraction was caused by highly polished metallic reflectors.

This visit to the Sand Beach Beacon was quite instructive; since we viewed there a practical application of an important principle in optics, based on the reflection of light.

On Wednesday morning, the first beams of the new-born day had just appeared, when the yacht continued her voyage on Lake Huron. After a course of nearly twenty-two miles, we approached _Saginaw Bay_--the largest indentation on the western lake sh.o.r.e--comprising a width of thirty miles and a length of sixty miles.

The pa.s.sage across this bay, feared by many experienced navigators on account of the heavy ground swell, did not give us any cause for anxiety at first. Gradually, however, the sea became quite rough, and the enraged waves dashed their spray pearls even upon the deck of our sailing home.

"The soft, wild waves, that rush and leap, Sing one song from the h.o.a.ry deep: The south wind knows its own refrain, As it speeds the cloud o'er heaven's blue main."

The strong breeze springing up in the forenoon, increased at midday. A line of low waves, first creeping sinuously into the bay, and tossing their snowy crests like troops of wild steeds, rolled higher and higher with the noise of many waters; and to escape the wrath of the angry sea, we stopped at the harbor of _Tawas City_, located near the northern extremity of Saginaw Bay. It is a thriving country town, with about 1,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in lumber trade.

The wind continued to lash the fierce billows during the day until evening; so we decided to remain in Tawas City until the dawn of the next morning.

Guided by the pale light of another aurora, we resumed our voyage, finding the surface of Lake Huron still in uproar.

During this forenoon, we had occasion to witness a prospect quite novel to us. Glancing to our left, on Michigan's sylvan sh.o.r.e, we saw the bickering flames of a ravaging forest fire; dyeing all the surrounding air and landscape crimson, while dense clouds of smoke hung over the burning land like a pall upon which the sun-rays were reflected with weird effect. It was, indeed, an unusual sight, exhibiting strange beauty and splendor.

In a short time we experienced the disagreeable consequences of this conflagration in the woodlands, caused by the extreme dryness prevailing in these regions for several weeks. For, as we reached _Alpena_ in Michigan, at about noonday, we found the atmosphere completely saturated with smoke, and intermixed with particles of burnt material.

The reader can easily imagine that this impure air had a very unpleasant effect upon our eyes, irritating them so as to materially interfere with our comfort. This was the reason why we did not duly appreciate the attractions of Alpena, a town with about 12,500 inhabitants, regularly laid out with nice, broad streets, containing many handsome buildings and large stores.

We had an ardent desire to bid farewell to the city as quick as possible; wherefore our captain received the order from Mr. James to guide the yacht forward on her course, even before the dawning of the next day, if such an early departure could be effected with safety.

In compliance with these commands, we were on our way long ere the blush of day tinged the eastern sky. At first, disregarding the smoke and mist which became denser every minute, our navigator was soon aware that

"So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky, He cannot see the sun on high: On deck the captain takes his stand, So dull it is, he sees no land.

'Dear me,' he says, 'I know no more How far away we are from sh.o.r.e.'"

The fact is--that on account of the dense pall of smoke and mist, overshadowing everything--our pilot lost his reckoning, and only kept the yacht slowly moving through the water until we could find our way, when suddenly--we ran aground upon a rocky ledge, causing us all great consternation.

"No stir in the air, no stir in the sea, The s.h.i.+p was as still as she might be.

Her shaft and screw received no shock.

Her keel was steady on a rock."

Having lost all presence of mind, our pilot, without any meditation, abandoned the yacht in one of the small boats, for the purpose of obtaining a.s.sistance from the unknown sh.o.r.e. Before we were conscious of his proceedings, he had disappeared through fume and haze. Almost instantaneously we detected that the mariner's compa.s.s had vanished with him.

Thus, we were dest.i.tute of the most important instrument for navigation.

Wis.h.i.+ng to give our deserter opportunity to find his way back to us, we caused the whistle to resound at short intervals.

This interesting adventure was, of course, thoroughly discussed. We were all convinced that the unforeseen event might turn into a perilous one, should a wind arise to roughen the surface of the water.

Our conversation was interrupted by an involuntary cry of pleasure which burst from the lips of Miss Campbell, whose keen eyes had revealed to her quite an uncommon spectacle in the hazy distance. Following her direction, we spied, through the fluctuating light of the foggy morning, the outlines of a steadfast boat speeding along on the calm sea. Eight oars, managed with the accuracy of clockwork by eight strong and skillful hands, were hurrying toward our rock-bound craft.

As the shape and dimensions of the capable boat became discernible, it was evident she belonged to the United States Life-Saving Service, coming to our rescue. This conjecture was correct, for the robust crew soon lay alongside of us; which was a matter of intense relief to the whole party.

With their a.s.sistance, the yacht was soon afloat again; and, guided by the Thunder Bay crew, we sailed to a favorable place of anchorage between Sugar and Gull Islands. Here the yacht remained to await our fugitive pilot, who was restored to us by the kind services of the life-saving crew, a few hours afterwards.

We were informed that we had been aground two miles from the sh.o.r.e, in the vicinity of Thunder Bay Lights on _Gull Island Ledge_.

During a heavy shower in the afternoon, we received a visit from several very pleasant ladies, relatives to the captain of the Thunder Bay life-saving service.

When expressing our regret that their excursion was not favored by pleasanter weather, they a.s.sured us they were only too glad to view the tremulous skeins of rain refresh the languis.h.i.+ng earth. In fact, this rainfall was a duplicated blessing, as it not only cleared the atmosphere from its smoky shroud but helped to check the ravages of the extensive forest conflagration, then threatening the city of Alpena with destruction.

An awakened breeze, which had freshened since the violent shower, caused our floating home to roll considerably.

Not desirous of being rudely tossed by the wanton billows, we weighed anchor and returned to Alpena, the only safe harbor within reach before sunset.

Early the next day we continued our voyage on Lake Huron, entering its northern portion, which differs greatly from the nature of its southern sh.o.r.e.

The northern and northeastern coasts are mostly composed of sand- and limestones. Where metamorphic rocks are found, the surface is broken and hilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake; in this respect unlike the southern sh.o.r.e, which is low and flat. Of the many islands--whose number amounts to about 3,000--we could admire the beauties of but few; for most of them dot the Canadian coast line.

As the wind increased rapidly, it was deemed advisable to take harbor at _False Presqu'ile_, where we arrived at 9 A.M. Although this small body of land appeared very insignificant, inhabited by only twelve families, we decided to remain there, until wind and waves would prove more favorable.

We had no motive to regret that resolution; for we experienced that this solitary tract not only afforded us enchanting views of lovely scenery; it was also the abode of n.o.ble-hearted mortals. Immediately after our arrival a very amiable gentleman, introducing himself as Mr. W.A. French, a wealthy lumber merchant of this place, visited us on board; giving us a cordial welcome. Not satisfied with a kind reception, he and his pretty wife presented us with all sorts of provisions, indigenous to this locality; thus evincing the abundant supply of delicacies at their disposal, notwithstanding their residing in such solitude.

The time pa.s.sed with marvelous rapidity in the pleasant company of our new friends. When the gloom of the growing twilight reminded us of the fading day, we could hardly realize this fact. We wished to stay there another day; but when the following morning rose fair and beautiful in the clear heavens, the wind had changed to the southeast, which was disadvantageous for our mooring place; and it might have been dangerous for us to remain in that harbor, should the breeze become violent.

Leaving False Presqu'ile, we pursued our voyage under the most favorable auspices.

After a course of several hours, we reached _Cheboygan_, a town situated on the northern sh.o.r.e of the Michigan Peninsula, thirteen miles from the Straits of Mackinaw. Lumber trade is carried on especially in this place, which contains about 7,500 inhabitants.

Resuming our trip the next forenoon, a short course brought us to the terminus of our voyage on Lake Huron; when reaching the _Straits of Mackinaw_, whose blue green waves divide the State of Michigan.