Observations Upon the Windward Coast of Africa Part 1

Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa.

by Joseph Corry.

PREFACE.

With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to ill.u.s.trate in the following pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa, and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle of Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c.

and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be preserved with that important quarter of the globe.

Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superst.i.tious idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers.

I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; and if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen in behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neither travelled, nor written in vain.

Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing state of society.

The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be essentially enlarged.

Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has. .h.i.therto strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science throughout these extensive regions.

Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to extend the Commerce of my Country, will s.h.i.+eld me from the severity of animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation.

J. CORRY.

_September 1st, 1807_.

CHAPTER I.

_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival at Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Pa.s.sage--its Bearings and Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c._

Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th of April, 1805, I shall notice my pa.s.sage, and display the sketches I have taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of Africa to-windward.[1]

On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the s.h.i.+p Thames, commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of s.h.i.+ps bound to the East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's s.h.i.+p Indostan. We had a favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa.

Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick pa.s.sage, until the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th of April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next morning, steering our course for the river.

The s.p.a.ce between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape Sierra Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; being in lat.i.tude 8 30" N. and in 13 43" W. long. and is computed about seven geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into the ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with impervious forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of an extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented with foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration in those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of the creation never fail to inspire.

Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, circ.u.mscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an a.s.semblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity.

This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, encourage to a.s.semble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with great dexterity in their canoes.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant about 8 leagues from A Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bay in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages.

At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this island for s.h.i.+ps, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the branches of the Port Logo and Roch.e.l.l. It is obscured from the view by the island of Ta.s.so, until bearing round a point of that island called Ta.s.so Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas.

Ta.s.so is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view.

Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters of a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door or gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. The expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessened by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were a.s.sembled several traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of their curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _give me service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony is simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminy language by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The reply to this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service.

The Grumittas, or free black people, are a.s.sembled outside the fort, in houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency.

Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society over barbarous customs and habits.

[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular phenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow.]

CHAPTER II.

_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of Goree, &c._

From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having determined to embark for Europe, where circ.u.mstances required me by the first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, and want of unanimity had occasioned.

The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III.

avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue for the s.p.a.ce of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September 1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one two-decker, several armed s.h.i.+ps and brigs, in the whole about seven or eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of 20,000_l_.

In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for the present dismiss it.

On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with 15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our pa.s.sage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c.

exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right before the furious a.s.sailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity.

To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north lat.i.tude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refres.h.i.+ng breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland.

Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent.

Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter.

On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position in the event of tornados, as a s.h.i.+p may always run in safety to sea, between the island and the main land.

Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters of a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called princ.i.p.al inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently between three and four thousand souls. Their princ.i.p.al trade is in slaves, of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia.