Twixt France and Spain Part 19

Carriage on Hire (from the stand).--The "course," 1 franc; the hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents respectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs.

50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 cents and 5 frs. respectively.

For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for 2 frs. by Lafont.

The Chief Excursions:--

For Superbagneres (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person in the season), Vallee du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost (carriage _via_ St. Beat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs.

each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than 1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallee du Lys), the Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to Chapter X.

The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora.

To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back.

To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice (_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits.

The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de Montne can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 frs.; or by day 7 frs.

Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs.

This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!

Saint Beat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI.

L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be ridden.

Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult ascension.

Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary.

Splendid view.

Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary.

Le Cecire.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each.

Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine view.

The Peaks Bacanere and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs.

each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the excursions from Luchon.

L'Entecade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit.

Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs.

each; an easy climb.

The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously mentioned.

_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, _via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season.

BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort,"

as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds.

The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs vary in heat from 71 to 112 Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, "The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaph.o.r.etic, and expectorant action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints.

Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrenees, Richelieu. Board and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with snow.

The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen under-clothing, which should always be taken.

Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for one month, 10 frs.

Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, according to position and size.

Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from Luz.

[Ill.u.s.tration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREAN CHAIN.----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.]

Post and Telegraph Office in the season.

Carriages, Horses, and a.s.ses in abundance; apply at the hotels.

Guides.--Of the 1st cla.s.s: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd cla.s.s for minor excursions.

Chief Excursions::--

For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallee de Lienz, refer to Chapter VI.

Pic de Nere.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers.

Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an excellent inn.

Lacs d'Es...o...b..us.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Es...o...b..us; 2 hrs. 30 min.

to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto.

Pic d'Ayre.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within 1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto.

Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter VI.

Le Neouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees.

BAUDeAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrenees.

BAYONNE.--City and first-cla.s.s fortress in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the sh.o.r.es of the terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and Spain.

Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Amba.s.sadeurs, St. Martin, De la Bilbana, De la Guipuzcoana, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Negresse station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _via_ Anglet.

Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz.

Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c.

Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents extra respectively for 2 horses.