Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing Part 12

This is solution A. Solution B is prepared by dissolving

Copper sulphate 2 kg.

Salammoniac 10 kg.

Cold water 50 liters

A and B are mixed, and the mixture applied to the hair of the furs several times, drying each time at 3540 C. After three coats of dye have been applied, a pretty and fairly intense black shade is obtained, which is developed further by treating with a solution of 25 grams of sodium b.i.+.c.hromate per liter of water. The skins are then allowed to dry in air, and then if desired, an after-dyeing is made with some other dye.

On account of its extreme fastness, Aniline Black, produced by any of the methods outlined above, has attained a justifiable popularity for the dyeing of furs, in spite of the necessity of using the more or less c.u.mbersome brush method of applying the dye. Very recently there was issued to a German company a patent in which is described a method whereby furs can be dyed with Aniline Black by the dip process. An abstract of the patent (D. R. P. 33402) is as follows: "As is known, aniline salt, and similar salts, together with oxidizing agents like b.i.+.c.hromates, chlorates, etc., cannot be used for dyeing furs by the dip process, because the strongly dissociated mineral acid is injurious to the leather.

The dissociation of the acid can be reduced by adding neutral salts, like common salt, or Glauber's salt, so that good results can be obtained by dyeing in a bath of the dye mixture, the leather retaining its softness."

Thus far there have been no reports of the successful practical application of this patent, so its value cannot be discussed. It is extremely doubtful, however, that furs will ever be dyed in the dyebath with the present type of Aniline Black formulas, no matter what substances are added to prevent the leather from being affected.

CHAPTER XV

FUR DYEING

OXIDATION COLORS

The year 1888 may be considered the beginning of a new era in the history of fur dyeing; the commencement of a period which was to see the time-honored, traditional methods of the masters of the art give way to newer methods of an entirely different character; and moreover, the initiation of an age when science with its basis of fact and logic, was to undertake the rationalization of an industry which had hitherto worked upon a more or less irrational, empirical and uncertain comprehension of the fundamental principles involved. It was not the work of a single day, or even of a year which brought about the virtual revolution in the dyeing of furs, but the result of long, patient, systematic effort. About this time, the German coal tar industry was attaining its real stride along the path of progress and achievement, and had already succeeded in reaching, to an appreciable degree at any rate, most users of coloring matters, with the consequence that the natural dyes, with their time and labor-consuming processes of application were gradually being superseded by the new synthetic dyestuffs which could be simply and quickly applied.

It was now the turn of the fur dyeing industry to receive the attention of the scientists and technologists responsible for the growth of the coal tar dye industry, and so there appeared in the above-mentioned year, the following patents, taken out by a German chemist named Erdmann:

D. R. P. 47349

A Process for Dyeing Hair and Feathers

If white hair or feathers are soaked in an aqueous or alcoholic solution of para-phenylene-diamine, and then exposed to the slow oxidation of the air, or are treated in a second solution with some oxidizing agent, then the hair or feathers will be dyed. According to the oxidizing agent chosen, and the concentration of the solution used, the color obtained will be light or dark, varying from the palest blond to the deepest blue-black. Particularly suitable as oxidizing substances are ferric chloride, permanganates, chlorates, hypochlorites, b.i.+.c.hromates, and hydrogen peroxide. The dyeings are fast, that is, they do not come off, and the color cannot be removed by was.h.i.+ng. Following examples may serve to make the process clear:

20 grams pure para-phenylene-diamine and 14 grams caustic soda are dissolved in a liter of water. The hair, previously degreased, is soaked thoroughly in this solution, and while moist is entered into a three per cent solution of peroxide of hydrogen. The action is not instantaneous, but after a day, the hair is dyed a dark shade; by repet.i.tion of these operations a blue-black is obtained.

The para-phenylene-diamine can be replaced in this process by other similar bases, such as dimethyl-para-phenylene-diamine, as well as the naphthylene-diamines. Since the substances which can be applied by this process are uninjurious, the method described can be used to dye human hair on the head or beard, and so seems suited to replace for the dyeing of hair, the metallic salts and various pyrogallic solutions which are on the market, and which are harmful to the health.

D. R. P. 51073 Supplement to 47349; Process for Dyeing Hair

This patent was an extension of the original patent to include certain oxy and amido-oxy compounds, the method being essentially the same otherwise as in the original patent. An ill.u.s.tration of the process is as follows:

73 grams para-amido phenol hydrochloride are dissolved with 40 grams caustic soda in a liter of water. The solution dyes hair a golden-yellow, which on subsequent treatment with a solution of ferric chloride turns to a red-brown.

In these two patents is to be found the basis of the modern fur dyes and fur dyeing methods. It is interesting to note that furs were not mentioned at all in connection with the process, which was intended mainly for dyeing hair, especially on the human head. It was only several years later that the value of the method for dyeing furs was realized.

So about 1894, the Aktien Gesellschaft fur Anilinfabrikation put upon the market three fur dyes under the trade name Ursol, Ursol D, giving dark-brown to black shades; Ursol P, giving red-brown colors; and Ursol C, giving a yellowish-brown shade. Pyrogallic acid had been previously used as a hair dye, and also to a slight extent as a fur dye, so it was used in conjunction with the Ursol dyes for shading purposes. The new fur dyes were not dyes in the ordinarily accepted sense of the term. They were really coal-tar intermediates, substances similar in character to aniline, and their dyeing property depended on the fact that they could be oxidized either by atmospheric oxygen, or by means of oxidizing agents, forming colored insoluble products. When the oxidation of the intermediate was caused to take place on the hair the colored product formed on and in the hair fibre, and remained fast. The reactions bringing about the conversion of the intermediate to the colored insoluble compound are quite a.n.a.logous to those of the Aniline Black process, though possibly not so complicated, with the important difference, however, that, while in the production of Aniline Black acid is essential, in the present instance the oxidation can be carried on in neutral or even alkaline medium. On account of the character of the method used in applying the new fur dyes, the name Oxidation Colors has been given to them. Strictly speaking, Aniline Black is also an Oxidation dye, but it is usually considered in a cla.s.s by itself. The methods used at first in the application of the Ursol dyes to furs followed closely the process as described in the patents. The furs were first killed, usually by brus.h.i.+ng on a lime mixture, drying, and then beating out the dust. This operation was repeated, if necessary. Then a solution of the desired dye, mixed with an equal volume of 3% peroxide of hydrogen was brushed on and the fur allowed to lie exposed to the air. The dyeing could also be done by the dip process, less concentrated solutions being used. By varying the concentration of the solution, and prolonging or shortening the time of action, the shades could be varied from very light to very dark, and by combining two or more of the Oxidation Colors, many different color effects could be produced. Soon other fur dyes were developed and put on the market; for example, Ursol DB, giving blue to blue-black shades, and Ursol 2G, yielding yellowish tones suitable for mixing with the other colors. Ursol C was discarded shortly after its introduction. The dyeings obtained with the Oxidation Colors seemed to be very fast, resisting successfully the action of cold or hot water, or even hot soap solution. Moreover, a dyed hair examined under the microscope appeared to be colored through the epidermis to the medulla, and no individual particles of dye could be discerned.

The new fur dyes had many evident advantages over the coloring matters in general use at the time. The simplicity of the dyeing operations, the short duration of the process, the great tinctorial power of the new products, were facts which strongly recommended themselves to the progressive fur dyer. The cost of the dyes was higher than that of the vegetable dyes, but this consideration was largely overbalanced by the saving in time and labor in using them. And yet, the Ursol dyes found only a comparatively small market. The majority of fur dyers, always conservative and reluctant to turn from the traditional ways of the industry were skeptical of, and even hostile towards the new dyes and the new methods of dyeing. In a sense, this opposition was justifiable.

It was not an easy task to relinquish all at once methods which had been successfully applied for generations back, and with which they were thoroughly experienced, in favor of processes which were radically different, and with which they had no experience at all. But some enterprising spirits among the fur dyers undertook to try out the new products and it was not long before the skeptics had good cause for condemning the work and achievements of the chemists as far as fur dyeing was concerned. The new type of dyes did possess some of the advantages claimed for them, but they also possessed many highly objectionable features, which had never been manifest with the vegetable dyes. First of all, the dyeings were not so fast as had at first appeared, for the color came off the hair when the furs were rubbed, brushed or beaten.

Then it was observed that after a short time some of the dyeings changed color, and at the same time the hair lost its gloss and became brittle.

The condition of the leather after dyeing was anything but satisfactory.

Most serious of all, however, was the appearance among the workers in the dyeing establishments, and also among the furriers who worked with the dyed skins, of certain pathological conditions which had hitherto been unknown. Various skin diseases, eczemas, inflammation of the eyes, asthmatic affections and intestinal irritations were some of the afflictions which were directly attributable to the use of fur dyes of the Ursol type. Medical science was at a loss to know how to treat these ailments, because their nature was not understood.

Here indeed, were obstacles threatening to destroy all the hopes which the discovery of the new cla.s.s of dyes had aroused, and to check at the outset the possibility of rational progress in the fur dyeing industry.

But the men of science were not content to let the matter drop thus.

Difficult problems had been solved before, and surely there must be some way of overcoming the objections and deleterious features of a system of fur dyeing which had so much potential merit. Where hindrances sprang up in the path of progress, it was the duty of the chemist to remove them, and when difficulties arose, it was up to him to resolve them, as far as was humanly possible. So the chemists who had been responsible for the introduction of the Oxidation Colors set themselves to the task of eliminating the undesirable or injurious qualities. It was many years before the results of painstaking effort and persistent study cleared up the causes of all the objectionable aspects of the fur dyes, and suggested means of overcoming them satisfactorily. The work had been directed to the improvement of the dyes and of the methods of dyeing with them. Purer intermediates were produced, and more easily soluble ones, so that there would be no possibility of ultra-microscopic particles of the dye being deposited on the surface of the hair from the dye solution, instead of being taken up within the hair fibre. It was this superficial deposition of minute crystals of the dye or of the only partially oxidized intermediate, on the hair, crystals so fine as to be invisible in the ordinary high-power microscope, which caused the color to come off when the furs were brushed or beaten, giving rise to a dust which was frequently very injurious to the health. Then, mordants were adopted to help fix the dyes, compounds of copper, iron, and chromium being used as formerly with the vegetable dyes, and the range of shades was also increased thereby. Certain of the Oxidation Colors had a tendency to sublime off the hair, so the dyed hair was chemically after-treated in such cases to prevent this. The causes of the pathological aspects of dyeing with the Oxidation fur dyes were not so readily disposed of. But the adoption of devices to prevent the formation and circulation of dust during the handling of the dye, the employment of adequate protection against contact with the dye or its solutions, the use of the most dilute solutions possible in dyeing, the thorough was.h.i.+ng of the dyed skins to remove any excess of the coloring matter, the prevention of dust formation in the drying of the skins, and the rigid observance of, and adherence to hygienic laws, were all factors in the elimination of the health-impairing phases of dyeing with the Oxidation Colors.

It was only after all these improvements had been accomplished that the fur dye intermediates began to acquire a degree of popularity among fur dyers, and strange as it may seem, there was a more ready market for these dyes in America, than in Germany where they were manufactured. Other manufacturers of coal-tar intermediates also began to produce fur dyes, and so, in addition to the Ursols, there were the Nako brand, the Furrol brand, the Furrein brand, and one or two others. New dyes were invented, until the whole range of colors suitable for fur dyeing had been produced.

The black dye, however, presented some difficulty. A black dye which would rival logwood blacks could not be attained. Ursol DB in conjunction with Ursol D was being used to produce bluish-blacks, but the dyeings were not fast, turning reddish after a time. In 1909, a patent was taken out for a dye mixture, which was made up like the DB brand, but instead of using toluylene diamine with para-phenylene-diamine, the new dye was made up of a methoxy, or ethoxy-diamine with para-phenylene-diamine, and it yielded brilliant bluish-blacks, which were fast, and which very nearly approached the logwood black in l.u.s.ter, intensity, and bloom. For some purposes, however, the production of a black color is still dependent on the use of the logwood dye.

When the Great War cut off to a large degree the importation of skins dyed in Europe, the American fur dyeing industry developed tremendously, and in a comparatively short time was able satisfactorily to accomplish in the way of dyeing furs, what had taken foreign dyers a much longer period to attain. It had been previously considered that furs could be dyed properly only by European fur dyers, but the achievements in this direction by Americans fully dispelled this belief. But the success of the fur dyers in America might not have been so marked or rapid, had it not been for the work of the American chemists. The war had also shut off the supply of German dyes, upon which the dyeing industries of America had formerly been dependent, so enterprising chemists in this country undertook to fill the need, and in a surprisingly short time, American fur dyes, in every respect the equal of the foreign product were offered to the American fur dyers, and at the present time, the requirements of the fur dyeing industry in this country are being adequately met by domestic producers. Among the brands on the market are the Rodol, Furamine, Furol, and several others. The Oxidation Colors are now being offered in a high state of purity, and easily soluble, free from any poisonous const.i.tuents, and there is absolutely no reason for the appearance of any pathological conditions among workers on dyed furs, or users of such furs, provided the necessary precautions have been taken in the dyeing process. The occurrence of any affection which can be traced to dyed fur, cannot possibly be due to the dye itself, but to gross carelessness and negligence in dyeing, and in any such event, the dyer responsible should be brought to account.

In order to get a better understanding of the nature and action of the Oxidation Colors, a typical one will be studied in some detail. The most important one in this cla.s.s is para-phenylene-diamine, usually designated by the letter D in all commercial brands of this fur dye, while its chemical formula is represented as C6H4(NH2)2. When pure it occurs in colorless, crystalline lumps, which rapidly turn brown when exposed to the air; the technical product of commerce is of a dark-brown color.

It dissolves readily in hot water when pure, and also in acids. At one time the hydrochloride was used instead of the free base, on account of its greater solubility, but now a base is made which is sufficiently pure to be very soluble in water. There are several methods of preparing para-phenylene-diamine: first, by the reduction of amido-azobenzol, the product obtained in this way always containing a slight amount of aniline, which reduces the solubility, and also gives rise to poisonous oxidation products during the dyeing process; second, by the reduction of paranitraniline, the quality and solubility of the product in this case depending on the purity of the starting material; and third, by the treatment of para-dichloro-benzol with ammonia under pressure, the best product being obtained by this method. The crude para-phenylene-diamine, made by any of the above processes, is generally distilled in vacuo, the refined base being obtained as lumps with a crystalline fracture.

The first step in the oxidation of the para-phenylene-diamine is the formation of quinone di-imine, NH:C6H4:NH. This is a very unstable compound in the free state, and even in aqueous solution it decomposes within a comparatively short time, or combines with itself to form a more stable substance. Quinone di-imine has a very sharp, penetrating odor, and produces violent local irritations wherever it comes in contact with the mucous membrane. If a small quant.i.ty of para-phenylene-diamine is absorbed into the human body, by breathing the dust, or otherwise, the formation of quinone di-imine takes place internally with consequent irritation of the mucous lining throughout the body. The various pathological conditions mentioned before may be ascribed to irritation caused by quinone di-imine. In any dyeing process where there is a possibility of the formation of quinone di-imine, as is the case with most dyes containing para-phenylene-diamine, special precautions must be taken by the workers in handling the dye or coming in contact with its solutions, and no one who is particularly sensitive to irritation should be permitted to work in a place where such dyes are used.

The next step in the oxidation of the para-phenylene-diamine is the formation of what is called Bandrowski's base. Three parts of the quinone di-imine combine with themselves, forming a substance of a brown-black color, which was formerly regarded as the final oxidation product. The formula of Bandrowski's base is represented by the following chemical hieroglyphics:

(NH2)2.C6H3.N:C6H4:N.C6H3(NH2)2.

Further investigation has shown that the oxidation proceeds beyond this stage with the formation of a compound of what is known as the azine type, which is depicted by the chemist as

NH NH (NH2).C6H3<>C6H2<>C6H3.NH2.

NH NH

It is by no means certain that this substance is the true coloring matter obtained by the oxidation of para-phenylene-diamine, for the reactions may continue still farther, producing even more complicated oxidation products. Scientific research and study has not as yet gone beyond this stage.

The reactions of the other dyes of the Oxidation type are quite similar to those of para-phenylene-diamine, some being simpler, and others being even more complex. The presence of certain chemical groups in the intermediate, or the relative position of such groups are factors responsible for the variations in shade.

With the various mordants, the Oxidation Colors give different shades, and a great range of colors can be produced either by combining mordants, or combining dyes, or both. The following tables ill.u.s.trate the shades formed with the customary mordants.

========================================================================= CHROME COPPER IRON DIRECT ---------+---------------+----------------+--------------+--------------- Ursol D brown black coal black coal black dark brown to brown black Ursol P dull red brown dull dark brown grey brown light brown Ursol 2G yellow brown dull yellow yellow brown dull yellow brown Ursol A ... ... blue black blue to blue- black Ursol 4G light brown medium brown yellow pure yellow Ursol 4R orange brown light yellow red brown orange red brown Ursol Grey B greenish grey greenish grey mouse grey ...

Ursol Grey R brownish grey brownish grey reddish grey ...

Fur dyes of American make being equal in every way to the German product, show the same color reactions with the various mordants. The following table shows the shades produced with the same mordants as above:

========================================================================= CHROME COPPER IRON DIRECT ---------+---------------+---------------+---------------+--------------- Rodol D brown black coal black coal black brownish black Rodol P red brown dark brown grey brown light brown Rodol 2G yellow brown yellow brown yellow brown dull yellow Rodol 4G light brown light brown reddish brown pure yellow Rodol A ... blue black ... blue black Rodol Grey B greenish grey greenish grey mouse grey ...

Rodol Grey R greenish grey brownish grey mouse grey ...

All these shades are produced by dyeing in a bath containing a _neutral_ solution of the dye. Sometimes the dye comes in the form of a salt of a mineral acid, like hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, in which case a sufficient amount of an alkali, usually ammonia, is added to liberate the free base. According to the Ca.s.sella Co., German manufacturers of the Furrol brand of fur dyes, the dyeing can also be carried on in slightly alkaline or in slightly acid solution, a different series of shades being obtained in each instance. Ammonia is used to render the bath alkaline, and formic acid to make it acid. The most customary practise, however, is to use neutral solutions of the dyes.

For preparing the mordant solutions much smaller quant.i.ties of the metallic compounds are used than in the case of the vegetable dyes. With chrome mordants cream of tartar is always employed as an a.s.sistant, and occasionally also with copper and with iron mordants. With copper, and also with iron mordants no addition is made at all, or sometimes a small quant.i.ty of acetic acid is added. The temperature of the mordant solution is kept about 30 C., and the duration of the mordanting varies from 224 hours according to the depth of shade desired. The concentration of the solution may also be varied, it sometimes being just as well to use a strong mordant solution and less duration of mordanting. Chrome may be combined with copper, and iron may be combined with copper, but chrome and iron do not go together as mordants. Some typical average mordanting formulas are as follows:

Chrome mordant.

b.i.+.c.hromate of soda 2.5 gms.

Cream of tartar 1.5 gms.