The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 13

1 onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil teaspoon turmeric A 3-4-pound chicken 1 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight Juice of 1 lemon, or more to taste 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed Black pepper or a pinch of cayenne or ground chili pepper Salt Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan until golden, then stir in the turmeric.

Put in the chicken and turn it until it is yellow all over. Add 2 cups water, the drained chickpeas, lemon juice, garlic, and pepper. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or longer, until the chicken is very tender, the chickpeas are soft, yellow, and lemony, and the liquid is reduced. Turn the chicken occasionally and add aadd water so that there is plenty of liquid sauce. Add salt when the chickpeas have softened.

Adjust the seasoning and cut up chicken.

Djaj Qdra Touimiya Saffron Chicken with Chickpeas and Almonds Serves 4-6 * In this delicately flavored and scrumptious Moroccan * In this delicately flavored and scrumptious Moroccan qdra qdra, the long-cooked almonds should become very soft.

As so often in Moroccan cooking, one onion is cooked first with the meat or chicken, and when these are nearly done, the remaining onions are added. The first onion is used to add flavor to the meat, and it practically melts and disappears into the sauce. The onions added later keep their shape and add body to the sauce.

A 3-4-pound chicken 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 medium onions teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron (optional) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more Pepper cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, or a 1-pound can of chickpeas cup blanched almonds Salt cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Juice of lemon Put the chicken, b.u.t.ter, and 1 onion, finely chopped, in a large pan, and cover with water. Add saffron, cinnamon, and pepper. Bring to the boil, add the soaked chickpeas (if using canned ones, they go in later) and the almonds, and simmer for about I hours, until the chickpeas are soft and the chicken is very tender, adding salt when the chickpeas begin to soften, and more water if necessary. Lift out the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Add the rest of the onions, finely chopped, the parsley, and canned chickpeas if using, and boil slowly for about 15 minutes, or until the onions are soft and the sauce considerably reduced. Return the chicken pieces to the sauce to heat through.

To serve, arrange the chicken pieces on a serving dish, cover with chickpeas and almonds and the sauce, and squeeze lemon juice over the dish.

Variations Dried black-eyed peas, or haricot or navy beans, can be used instead of chickpeas, or all three can be cooked together.

Djaj qdra bel looz (chicken with almonds) has twice the amount of almonds and no chickpeas. (chicken with almonds) has twice the amount of almonds and no chickpeas.

Djaj Mqualli Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Olives Serves 4 * The last time I ate this famous Moroccan dish was in a restaurant in Paris where there was an evening of Arab poetry and tales accompanied by musicians. It was not the best example of the dish, but I always find it enjoyable. I love the special flavor of preserved lemons. At every vegetable market in North Africa, and now also in the south of France, you can see stalls laden with huge piles of soft lemons oozing with juice beside several varieties of olives. The two are often used together. The pulp of the preserved lemon is discarded, and the skin alone is used. The word * The last time I ate this famous Moroccan dish was in a restaurant in Paris where there was an evening of Arab poetry and tales accompanied by musicians. It was not the best example of the dish, but I always find it enjoyable. I love the special flavor of preserved lemons. At every vegetable market in North Africa, and now also in the south of France, you can see stalls laden with huge piles of soft lemons oozing with juice beside several varieties of olives. The two are often used together. The pulp of the preserved lemon is discarded, and the skin alone is used. The word mqualli mqualli alludes to the way the chicken is cooked, with oil and only a little water. alludes to the way the chicken is cooked, with oil and only a little water.

A 3-4-pound chicken 3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 1 large onion, grated or very finely chopped 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron - teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoons cinnamon Salt and pepper Peel of 1 or 2 preserved lemons (see page 459), rinsed and cut in quarters 12 green or pale-brown olives, soaked in 2 changes of water for hour Put the chicken in a large saucepan with all the ingredients except the preserved lemons and olives.

Half-cover with water and simmer, covered, turning the chicken over a few times, and adding water if necessary, for about 1 hours, or until the chicken is so tender that the flesh pulls off the bone and the liquid is reduced to a thick unctuous sauce.

Throw the lemon peel and drained rinsed olives into the sauce for the last 15 minutes of cooking. Some like to add the peel at the very end; some like to chop part of it up to flavor the sauce. Cut the chicken into serving pieces and serve hot, with the sauce poured over.

RIDDLE:.

Our black servant is green.

Her children are born white and then grow black. Who is she?

ANSWER :.

An olive tree.

Djaj Matisha Mesla Chicken with Tomatoes and Honey Serves 4 * This Moroccan tagine is one of my favorites. The chicken cooks in the juice of the tomatoes, which reduces to a sumptuous, thick, honeyed, almost caramelized sauce. And it looks beautiful too. * This Moroccan tagine is one of my favorites. The chicken cooks in the juice of the tomatoes, which reduces to a sumptuous, thick, honeyed, almost caramelized sauce. And it looks beautiful too.

A 3-4-pound chicken, cut into quarters 3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 1 large onion, grated 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces Salt and plenty of pepper teaspoon ground ginger 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron 2 tablespoons clear honey (Moroccans use up to 4 tablespoons) cup blanched almonds, coa.r.s.ely chopped, toasted under the broiler or fried in oil 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted Put all the ingredients except the honey, almonds, and sesame seeds in a large pan. Cook gently, covered, turning the chicken occasionally, for about 1 hours, or until the flesh is so tender it can be pulled off the bone easily.

Remove the chicken, and continue to cook the sauce over medium heat until reduced to a thick, sizzling cream. Stir as it begins to caramelize, and be careful that it does not stick or burn. Now stir in the honey, return the chicken pieces to the sauce, and heat through. Serve hot, covered with the sauce and sprinkled with the almonds and sesame seeds.

Djaj bel Loz Chicken with Almonds and Honey Serves 8 * A magnificent dish, and a stunning example of the way Moroccans mix savory and sweet. Chicken pieces are first stewed with lemon juice and saffron, then baked with a topping of almonds and honey. * A magnificent dish, and a stunning example of the way Moroccans mix savory and sweet. Chicken pieces are first stewed with lemon juice and saffron, then baked with a topping of almonds and honey.

2 large onions, chopped 4 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoons cinnamon 2 3-4-pound chickens, cut into quarters Salt and pepper teaspoon powdered saffron Juice of -I lemon 1 cups blanched almonds, coa.r.s.ely ground 1 tablespoon rose water 4-5 tablespoons honey In a large pan, cook the onions in the oil over low heat with the lid on until they soften, stirring occasionally. Stir in the ginger and cinnamon and put in the chicken. Cover with water, add salt and pepper, saffron, and lemon juice, and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings (the sauce should be quite salty), and move the pieces so that the top ones go to the bottom.

Lift the chicken pieces out and arrange them in a large, shallow baking dish. Remove the skin if you like, and pour the sauce over.

Mix the ground almonds with the rose water and honey. Spread this paste over the chicken pieces and bake in a 350F oven for about 30-45 minutes. The flavor, with the melting honey, is divine. Serve hot.

Jaj bel Lissan al a.s.sfour Chicken with Pasta Serves 6 * This Syrian dish is made with a type of pasta called * This Syrian dish is made with a type of pasta called lissan al a.s.sfour lissan al a.s.sfour (bird's tongues) which looks like large grains of rice. It cooks in the sauce from the chicken and acquires a rich, spicy flavor and light-brown color. You will find it in Middle Eastern stores as well as in the pasta section of supermarkets, where it is called "orzo." An apricot sauce, (bird's tongues) which looks like large grains of rice. It cooks in the sauce from the chicken and acquires a rich, spicy flavor and light-brown color. You will find it in Middle Eastern stores as well as in the pasta section of supermarkets, where it is called "orzo." An apricot sauce, salsat mishmisheya salsat mishmisheya, sometimes accompanies the dish (see variations).

1 large onion, chopped 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 chicken, about 3 pounds 4 cloves garlic, sliced 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds teaspoon ground ginger (optional) Salt and pepper Juice of lemon 2 cups orzo 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter In a pan large enough to contain the chicken, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Put in the chicken, and pour in 4 cups of water (it will not cover the chicken entirely). Add garlic, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger if you like, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 1-1 hours with the lid on, until the chicken is so tender the meat falls off the bone, turning the chicken over once halfway through. Take out the chicken, and when it is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones.

Bring the sauce to the boil, add the lemon juice, and throw in the pasta. Cook for 8-10 minutes, or until tender, adding boiling water-about 1 cup-if necessary, and more salt and pepper.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter and put the chicken pieces back into the pan, over the pasta. Heat through before serving. The pasta becomes soft rather than al dente al dente.

Variations Dry vermicelli (s.h.a.ghria (s.h.a.ghria in Arabic), crushed into 1-inch pieces with your hands, can be used instead of the orzo. They will need less cooking time-about 5-6 minutes. in Arabic), crushed into 1-inch pieces with your hands, can be used instead of the orzo. They will need less cooking time-about 5-6 minutes.

For the apricot sauce to accompany, simmer pound tart, unsweetened dried apricots in water until soft. Add the juice of lemon if you prefer a sharper taste. When the apricots are soft, crush them with a fork and continue to simmer until reduced to a soft puree, or puree to a cream with the liquid in a food processor. Serve hot or cold in a separate bowl.

In Morocco, they boil a chicken, lift it out of the broth, and cut it up, then cook broken vermicelli in the broth. They serve the chicken covered and concealed by the vermicelli and garnished with sprinklings of ground cinnamon in a pattern of lines.

Tagine T'Faia Tagine with Hard-Boiled Eggs and Almonds Serves 4-6 * In Morocco they say that this dish, like many others, was brought back from Andalusia by the Moors after the Reconquista. * In Morocco they say that this dish, like many others, was brought back from Andalusia by the Moors after the Reconquista.

1 chicken, weighing about 3 pounds, cut into 4-6 pieces 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and pepper teaspoon ground ginger About teaspoon powdered saffron 2 onions, finely chopped 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 6 hard-boiled eggs cup blanched almonds, or more Put the chicken pieces in a large pan with 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil, salt, pepper, ginger, saffron, onions, and parsley. Cover with water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently, half covered, for -1 hour, or until the chicken has absorbed the taste of the ginger and saffron and is well cooked, and the sauce is reduced.

Heat 3 tablespoons of water with a pinch of powdered saffron. Sh.e.l.l the hard-boiled eggs and roll them in the saffron water to color them all over. Fry the blanched almonds in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil, shaking the pan and turning them over, until lightly colored.

Arrange the chicken in a serving dish and pour the sauce over it. Arrange the eggs on top, between the pieces of chicken, and garnish with fried almonds.

Yogurtlu Basti Chicken with Spiced Yogurt Serves 4 * A Turkish dish in which yogurt, an important feature in Turkish cooking, is flavored with cardamom and ginger. * A Turkish dish in which yogurt, an important feature in Turkish cooking, is flavored with cardamom and ginger.

2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, or the seeds, crushed 1 inches fresh gingerroot, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice 1 large onion, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil A 3-pound chicken, cut into quarters, or 4 chicken fillets Salt and pepper cup blanched almonds, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped In a bowl, mix the yogurt with the cardamom and ginger and let them infuse while you cook the chicken.

In a large skillet, fry the onion in the oil till soft. Add the chicken pieces and saute until the onions are golden and the chicken pieces lightly browned. Add salt and pepper and a cup of water, and cook over low heat-12 minutes for breast meat, 20 minutes for dark-until the chicken is very tender and the sauce reduced, turning the chicken pieces over and adding a little water if it becomes too dry.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the yogurt. Serve sprinkled with almonds.

Fattet Jaj Fatta with Chicken Serves 8 * This multi-layered dish is complex and time-consuming, and I don't expect many people to attempt it. But it is very important in the Arab world, especially in Syria and Lebanon. And it is one of those recipes which bring me a flood of memories. I had received a letter from a woman I did not know in Beirut saying that she would like to meet me and that she had recipes for me. It was the late Josephine Salam. On our first meeting-at Claridge's tearoom, where a band played Noel Coward tunes-she brought me a bottle of orange-blossom water and a copper pan. She volunteered to come to my house and show me how to * This multi-layered dish is complex and time-consuming, and I don't expect many people to attempt it. But it is very important in the Arab world, especially in Syria and Lebanon. And it is one of those recipes which bring me a flood of memories. I had received a letter from a woman I did not know in Beirut saying that she would like to meet me and that she had recipes for me. It was the late Josephine Salam. On our first meeting-at Claridge's tearoom, where a band played Noel Coward tunes-she brought me a bottle of orange-blossom water and a copper pan. She volunteered to come to my house and show me how to make fattet jaj make fattet jaj. I got the ingredients, and we made so much that we had to call in the neighbors to eat. I saw her for many years after that, and we had many meals together. It was the time of the civil war in Lebanon, and I received through her an ongoing account of everyday life in the ravaged city. Her daughter Rana has become a conceptual artist. For her thesis at the Royal College of Art in London, she asked me to give a lecture on the history of Middle Eastern food. She filled the college with hangings announcing the event, with my portrait painted on by a cinema-poster painter in Egypt. She laid out foods and spices as in a souk, put on a tape of Egyptian street sounds and music, and offered Arab delicacies.

4 cups thick Greek-style drained yogurt, at room temperature 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 chicken, about 3 pounds Juice of 3 lemons 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 5 or 6 small pieces of mastic (page 44), pulverized with a little salt (optional) Salt and pepper 1 large onion, finely chopped 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound lean ground beef 1 cup basmati or long-grain rice (washed if basmati) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice 3 very thin pita breads or 2 ordinary pitas Vegetable oil for frying - cup pine nuts Pour the yogurt into a bowl and beat in the garlic. Let it come to room temperature.

Wash the chicken. Put it in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil, and remove any sc.u.m. Add the lemon juice and cardamom, mastic if you like, salt, and pepper, and cook until the chicken is very tender and almost falls off the bones-1 to 1 hours. Lift out the chicken, remove the skin and bones, and return the chicken pieces to the stock. Bring it to the boil again when you are ready to serve.

In the meantime, make the hashwa hashwa or filling: Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons of the oil until it is golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add the ground meat and cook, crus.h.i.+ng and stirring it, until it has changed color, then add the rice and continue to stir. Add cinnamon and allspice, salt and pepper, and l cups water. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to a minimum. Cook gently over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is done. or filling: Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons of the oil until it is golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add the ground meat and cook, crus.h.i.+ng and stirring it, until it has changed color, then add the rice and continue to stir. Add cinnamon and allspice, salt and pepper, and l cups water. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to a minimum. Cook gently over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is done.

Open out the pita breads. Toast them in the oven or under the broiler until they are crisp and only lightly browned. Then break them up into pieces in your hands and spread them at the bottom of a deep serving dish.

Work quickly to a.s.semble the dish when you are ready to serve, so that all the layers, apart from the yogurt, are hot. Cover the toasted bread with the rice-and-meat hashwa hashwa. Lay over this the chicken pieces, and pour over enough of the flavorsome stock to soak the bread thoroughly. Cover entirely with the yogurt, and sprinkle the top with the pine nuts lightly fried in a drop of oil.

Serve at once.

Note: If you want to prepare this in advance, a.s.semble the layers in a large ovenproof dish, cover it with foil, and heat it up in the oven before serving. If you want to prepare this in advance, a.s.semble the layers in a large ovenproof dish, cover it with foil, and heat it up in the oven before serving.

Variation Instead of toasting the bread, Josephine cut it into triangles, deep-fried them in oil until crisp and brown, and then drained them on paper towels.

ARAB SAYING:.

"Eat and praise your host."

Madzounov Manradzo Bulgur and Meat Dumplings with Chicken and Yogurt Serves 8 * Armenian dishes are humble and rustic. This one is a party dish which combines everyday ingredients in a complex way. The serving is something of a ritual. * Armenian dishes are humble and rustic. This one is a party dish which combines everyday ingredients in a complex way. The serving is something of a ritual.

A 3-4-pound chicken cup chickpeas, soaked overnight Salt and pepper 1 cinnamon stick 1 onion 1 cups fine- or medium-ground bulgur (cracked wheat) pound finely ground beef or lamb 2 egg yolks 1 tablespoon cornstarch 4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 3 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon dried mint Put the chicken in a large pan with the drained chickpeas. Cover with 3 or more quarts of water, add the cinnamon stick, and bring to the boil. Remove the sc.u.m and simmer, covered, for about 1-1 hours, until the chicken and the chickpeas are very tender. Add salt and pepper when the chickpeas have begun to soften. hours, until the chicken and the chickpeas are very tender. Add salt and pepper when the chickpeas have begun to soften.

Make the dumplings. Finely chop the onion in a food processor. Rinse the bulgur and drain, squeezing out the excess water, then add the bulgur to the chopped onions in the food processor, along with the meat and a little salt and pepper. Blend to a soft paste. Rub your hands with oil. Take lumps of the paste and roll into small walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s. Arrange them on a plate.

Pour off the chicken stock into another pan, leaving just enough to keep the chickpeas and chicken moist. Lift out the chicken, remove the skin and bones, and cut it into pieces, then return the pieces to the pan with the chickpeas.

Drop the dumplings into the stock and simmer for about 15 minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and keep aside in the pan with the chicken and chickpeas.

Reduce the stock to about 4 cups. Mix the egg yolks with the cornstarch in a large bowl to a smooth paste, and beat in the yogurt (the yolks and cornstarch will prevent it from curdling when it cooks). Beat in a ladle of the hot stock, pour this into the pan with the simmering stock, and stir constantly over low heat until the mixture begins to boil and thickens very slightly (it will be quite soupy).

Before serving, add the chicken, chickpeas, and dumplings, drained of their stock, and heat through.

Serve in soup plates with the melted b.u.t.ter and mint dribbled over the top.

Djaj Mahs.h.i.+ bel Hashwa Chicken with Rice, Ground Meat, and Nut Stuffing Serves 6 * Chicken with rice-and-ground-meat stuffing or * Chicken with rice-and-ground-meat stuffing or hashwa hashwa is a cla.s.sic festive dish of the Arab world. The old way was to boil the stuffed chicken first, then briefly roast it to give it a golden color. These days it is more common to cook the stuffing separately and to roast the chicken. For a large party you can make double the quant.i.ty, shape the stuffing in a mound in a large round oven dish, cover it with the cut-up pieces of chicken, then heat it through, covered with foil, before serving. is a cla.s.sic festive dish of the Arab world. The old way was to boil the stuffed chicken first, then briefly roast it to give it a golden color. These days it is more common to cook the stuffing separately and to roast the chicken. For a large party you can make double the quant.i.ty, shape the stuffing in a mound in a large round oven dish, cover it with the cut-up pieces of chicken, then heat it through, covered with foil, before serving.

1 chicken, 3-4 pounds 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cardamom Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil FOR THE THE STUFFING STUFFING.

pound ground lean beef or lamb 2 tablespoons oil Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, crushed cup long-grain rice 1 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 1 bouillon cube) cup split blanched almonds or coa.r.s.ely chopped pistachios cup pine nuts, lightly toasted Wash the chicken and rub it with a mixture of cinnamon, cardamom, salt, pepper, and oil. Place the chicken, breast side down, in an oven dish and roast in a preheated 350F oven for 1-1 hours, or until the skin is well browned but the chicken is still juicy inside, turning it over halfway through.

For the stuffing, fry the ground meat in the oil, crus.h.i.+ng it, turning it over, and breaking up any lumps, until it changes color. Add salt and pepper, cinnamon, and the cardamom seeds, and stir well. Add the rice, mix very well, and pour in the stock. Cook with the lid on, over very low heat, for 20 minutes, or until the rice is very tender. Stir in the almonds or pistachios and the pine nuts.

Serve the chicken with the stuffing.

MORG T TU P POR.

Chicken Stuffed with Dried Fruits Serves 6*I have also made this Persian stuffing for Christmas turkey, using twice the amount. have also made this Persian stuffing for Christmas turkey, using twice the amount.

1 chicken, about 3-4 pounds 1 onion, finely chopped b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil pound prunes, soaked, pitted, and chopped pound dried apricots, soaked and chopped cup raisins 2 apples, peeled, cored, and chopped Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Clean and wash the chicken. Fry the chopped onion in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil until soft and golden. Add the chopped fruits and the raisins and saute gently for a few minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cinnamon.

Stuff the chicken with some of this mixture, and secure the opening with a toothpick or sew it with thread. Rub the chicken with salt, pepper, and the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil, and place it breast side down in a baking dish. Put the rest of the stuffing in another oven dish and cover with foil. Roast the chicken in a preheated 325F oven for about 1 hours, turning the chicken over after 40 minutes. Bake the remaining stuffing for the last 30-40 minutes.

Serve the chicken surrounded with the extra stuffing, accompanied by rice.

Variation You may add cup coa.r.s.ely chopped walnut halves and cup barberries (see page 43) to the stuffing.

Boned Stuffed Chicken with Veal and Pistachios Serves 8 or more This was a regular at my aunt Regine's dinner parties. It is similar to dishes featured in medieval manuals. The French would call it a galantine. This was a regular at my aunt Regine's dinner parties. It is similar to dishes featured in medieval manuals. The French would call it a galantine.

1 chicken, about 3 pounds 4 tablespoons vegetable oil salt and pepper 1 pounds ground veal - cup very coa.r.s.ely chopped pistachio nuts Juice of lemon Clean and wash the chicken, and cut off the wing tips and leg ends to make the removal of the skin possible. Singe the chicken over a flame to loosen the skin from the flesh. Carefully pull the skin right off, as though undressing the chicken, taking care not to tear it, starting from the neck and pulling it off the legs last. It will come right off with the occasional help of a pointed knife. Wash the skin, turn it right side out, and put it aside.

Cut the skinned chicken into quarters, put them in a saucepan, and cover with water. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, season with salt and pepper, bring to the boil, and simmer gently until the chicken is very tender-about 30-45 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it cool in the stock. Drain and keep the stock.

Bone the chicken, discarding nerves and tendons, and grind or chop the meat finely. Put it in a large bowl, mix in the ground veal, and season with salt and pepper. Knead very well, then add the pistachio nuts and work them into the mixture.

Using a needle and strong thread, sew up all but the largest vent in the chicken skin and darn any holes. Stuff the skin carefully with the chicken-and-veal mixture, and re-form as nearly as possible in its original shape. Sew the opening tightly.

Heat the remaining oil in a large pan, put in the stuffed chicken, and turn to brown it lightly all over. Add the lemon juice and about half a ladle of the stock. Simmer gently, covered, for about 1 hour, turning the chicken over, and adding more stock, half a ladle at a time, if it becomes dry. At the end of the cooking time, the veal should be well cooked and almost blended with the chicken, and the sauce much reduced. Remove from the heat and allow to cool overnight in its own sauce.

Serve cold. Traditionally, the chicken is served already cut in thick slices, but I think it looks rather beautiful with its subdued boneless shape, served whole and sliced at the table.

Variation A version said to be for lazy cooks is just as delicious, though not as dramatic. Cook the chicken as in the recipe for sofrito sofrito (page 213), adding just a pinch of turmeric or none at all. When cool, skin it and remove the bones and tendons. Grind or chop the flesh and mix it with the ground veal, 1 egg, and a handful of chopped pistachios. Knead thoroughly and roll into a thick sausage shape. Saute in 2 tablespoons hot oil, turning it until golden all over. Add water, a little at a time, as it becomes absorbed, and simmer gently, covered, until well cooked, turning it over once. Allow to cool in its sauce for several hours before serving. Serve cut in slices. (page 213), adding just a pinch of turmeric or none at all. When cool, skin it and remove the bones and tendons. Grind or chop the flesh and mix it with the ground veal, 1 egg, and a handful of chopped pistachios. Knead thoroughly and roll into a thick sausage shape. Saute in 2 tablespoons hot oil, turning it until golden all over. Add water, a little at a time, as it becomes absorbed, and simmer gently, covered, until well cooked, turning it over once. Allow to cool in its sauce for several hours before serving. Serve cut in slices.

Fesenjan e Ordak Duck with Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce Serves 4 * * Fesenjan Fesenjan is a famous Persian sauce for rice with stewed duck. I love the sauce, which has a special sweet-and-sour flavor from pomegranate mola.s.ses is a famous Persian sauce for rice with stewed duck. I love the sauce, which has a special sweet-and-sour flavor from pomegranate mola.s.ses (rob-e nar) (rob-e nar), but I don't like stewed duck, so I roast the duck instead.

1 duck, weighing about 5 pounds 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper 2 large onions, chopped 1 cups walnuts, finely chopped 4 tablespoons sour-pomegranate syrup (mola.s.ses or concentrate) 1-2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste 1 cup chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use bouillon cube) Rub the duck with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper. p.r.i.c.k the skin with a fork in several places so that the melted fat can ooze out. Put it breast side down on a rack in a baking dish in a preheated 400F oven. Cook for about 2 hours, until the skin is crisp and brown and the flesh still juicy, turning the duck over so that it is breast side up after an hour. If you don't have a rack, you can lay the duck straight in the dish, but you must pour out the fat as it is released-at least twice.

For the sauce, in a pan fry the onions in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add the walnuts and stir for 1-2 minutes. Stir in the pomegranate syrup and the sugar, and pour in the stock. Stir well, and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the sauce is thick.

Carve the duck and serve the pieces on plain rice. Pour the sauce on top.

Deek Mahs.h.i.+ Roast Turkey with Meat, Nut, and Rice Stuffing Serves 8-10 * In the Middle East, turkeys range freely and are small and tough, more like game birds, so they are usually stewed, which makes the flesh tender and moist. In America, roasting is best for the birds. * In the Middle East, turkeys range freely and are small and tough, more like game birds, so they are usually stewed, which makes the flesh tender and moist. In America, roasting is best for the birds.

A 10-pound turkey Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil FOR THE THE STUFFING STUFFING.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound lean ground lamb or beef 1 cups mixed whole nuts: blanched almonds, pistachios, and pine nuts 2 cups long-grain rice cup raisins (optional) Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice 3 cups water Wash the turkey and rub it inside and out with lemon juice and a little salt.

Prepare the stuffing. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan. Add the ground meat and fry, crus.h.i.+ng and turning it over with a fork, until it changes color. Fry the nuts in the remaining tablespoon of oil in a skillet, beginning with the almonds (pine nuts take moments only), stirring. Add them to the meat with the rice and the raisins. Season with salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice and mix well. Add the water, bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes.

Stuff the turkey loosely with this mixture, and sew the openings tightly with strong thread. Put any extra stuffing in a baking dish and cover with foil to reheat before serving. Truss the bird, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and rub with oil. Put it breast side up in a large roasting pan and cook in a preheated 425F oven for hour.

Now turn the turkey breast side down, reduce the oven temperature to 350F, and cook for 1 hours. Then turn the turkey breast side up again and cook a further -1 hour, until it is crisp and brown and the juice runs clear when you cut into a thigh with a pointed knife.

Put the extra stuffing to heat through in the oven during the last 20 minutes. The turkey may either be served whole, with the extra stuffing on the side, or carved into pieces and arranged over the stuffing in a large platter.

Variation The turkey can be boned before stuffing: Cut the skin and flesh of the bird along the spine all the way down from the neck. Starting from the neck, strip and cut away the flesh from the carca.s.s as close to it as possible, using a very sharp knife, taking care not to damage the skin, and pus.h.i.+ng the flesh back as you cut. Break the shoulder and leg joints. Carefully remove the carca.s.s all in one piece. Pack very loosely with stuffing and sew up neatly, re-forming the bird as far as possible in its original shape. In this way it will take more stuffing. The legs and wings remain unboned and help to keep the shape of the turkey firm.

Meat Dishes LOUHOMAT.

In Arab literature and folklore, meat dishes have always been labeled th food of the rich and aristocratic, in contrast with the filling dishes c beans, lentils, and wheat which are the diet of the poor. Many stories an proverbs ill.u.s.trate this distinction. Here is an old Egyptian tale of the Mam luk period by Ahmad ibn al Hajjar, in which the various foods are personi fied and their status is defined, from a book about the pleasant war between mutton and the refreshments of the market: King Mutton reigns over a large and powerful people, comprising mainly different types of meats. He hears of the power of a rival, King Honey, who has been crowned by the poor, and who reigns over vegetables, fruits, sweets, fish, dairy dishes, and the refreshments of the market. King Mutton sends his amba.s.sador, Mutton's Tail (alya), to King Honey, demanding that he surrender his kingdom and pay tribute. King Honey refuses and calls his troops together, but the amba.s.sador has taken advantage of his stay in the kingdom to debauch and corrupt the officers of rank, in particular, the Sugar, the Syrup, the Clarified b.u.t.ter, and others, to whom he has promised important positions at the court of his master. Thus, because of their treachery, the battle between the two armies is easily won by the troops of King Mutton, and even the reinforcements of fruits sent to help the broken army of King Honey are of no avail.

Most Arab meat recipes, medieval as well as modern, simply call for meat- meat with lentils, meat with yogurt, and so on-without specifying what kind of meat or any particular cut. This is because, in the past, only mutton and lamb were eaten, apart from occasionally kid and very rarely gazelle or camel. Cattle were seldom raised, because of the lack of humidity and grazing land, except for a water buffalo called gamoussa gamoussa mainly used to work in the fields, or for the rich milk which produces the famously thick cream of the region. Cattle brought from elsewhere had to travel a long way across whole countries to reach the Middle East, and by the time they got to their destination, their flesh was tough and inedible unless ground. Today, beef and veal are gradually becoming more popular. Although mutton and lamb remain the most widely used and favored meats, imported beef and veal quite often replace them, the dishes otherwise remaining unchanged. mainly used to work in the fields, or for the rich milk which produces the famously thick cream of the region. Cattle brought from elsewhere had to travel a long way across whole countries to reach the Middle East, and by the time they got to their destination, their flesh was tough and inedible unless ground. Today, beef and veal are gradually becoming more popular. Although mutton and lamb remain the most widely used and favored meats, imported beef and veal quite often replace them, the dishes otherwise remaining unchanged.

The most popular way of cooking meat is to broil or roast it. The word meshwi meshwi in Arabic covers all types of meat-large joints, chops, small skewered pieces, or a whole animal-broiled or roasted over a fire. It is the celebratory food of the Arab world, the street food, and the main fare of the restaurant trade which developed as kebab houses. in Arabic covers all types of meat-large joints, chops, small skewered pieces, or a whole animal-broiled or roasted over a fire. It is the celebratory food of the Arab world, the street food, and the main fare of the restaurant trade which developed as kebab houses.