The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 14

Another way of cooking meat which is both common and prestigious is in a stew-yakhni to Syrians and Lebanese, "tagines" to North Africans, and to Syrians and Lebanese, "tagines" to North Africans, and kh.o.r.esht kh.o.r.esht to Iranians. For those who can afford meat, a stew accompanied by rice or bulgur or by bread represents the main everyday meal. But stews can also reach extraordinary heights of sophistication to be the grand festive foods prepared for wedding parties and great occasions. to Iranians. For those who can afford meat, a stew accompanied by rice or bulgur or by bread represents the main everyday meal. But stews can also reach extraordinary heights of sophistication to be the grand festive foods prepared for wedding parties and great occasions.

In his Isret Name Isret Name, the sixteenth-century Turkish poet Revani describes a stew as "a saint who makes his prayer rug float upon the water," comparing the pieces of meat floating in the rich sauce to the prayer rugs on which the saints of old were supposed to traverse rivers.

Stews are among the finest features of Middle Eastern cooking. It is here, most of all, that you find the great similarities to dishes recorded in Arabic culinary ma.n.u.scripts of the tenth to the fourteenth centuries. Thirty-five years ago, when I first came across these ma.n.u.scripts, I was struck by the likeness to the modern recipes I was collecting. There was the same combination of ingredients, the same pairing of vegetables or fruits with meat, the same blends of aromatics, and methods of cooking-cutting the meat into cubes or grinding it and rolling it into little b.a.l.l.s before sauteing and stewing. Echoes of the old dishes, a legacy of ancient Persia, can be found all over the Middle East, but most remarkably, and in a stunning number of dishes, along the route charting the Arab conquering armies from Baghdad across North Africa through Tunisia and Morocco on their way to Spain. It was thrilling to discover that a high culinary art had been pa.s.sed down over the centuries, and that you could still find remnants of it in Tunis and Fez. I was so excited by recipes written in Baghdad in 1226 by a certain Muhammad ibn Ha.s.san ibn Muhammad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi, who claimed to love eating above all pleasures, that I cooked them all. It felt as though I was re-creating the Thousand and One Nights in my kitchen.

On the practical side, while you need prime cuts of meat for broiling or roasting, cheaper cuts, especially fatty ones, are best for stews. The lengthy cooking makes the meat deliciously tender. Although the cooking time is long, the labor is simple, and stews are the kind of thing that you can prepare in advance. And they can always be extended for the unexpected guest-according to tradition, simply by adding water. Nineteenth-century cookery manuals often state that the amounts given will serve a certain number of people, but that you can add water if a friend should arrive. Traditionally, in many countries, stews were cooked in the gentle all-round heat of a clay dish over the fire, as for the tagines of North Africa, or in the public baker's oven or the outdoor clay oven such as the tagen tagen of Egypt. Nowadays most people use heavy-bottomed saucepans or ca.s.seroles. of Egypt. Nowadays most people use heavy-bottomed saucepans or ca.s.seroles.

Meatb.a.l.l.s and ground-meat dishes are another very popular and prestigious feature of Middle Eastern cooking. The advantage here is in the flavoring, with the aromatics being incorporated into the meat.

ARAB SAYING:.

"One's eating shows one's love."

Fakhda Mahsheya Roast Leg of Lamb with Ground Meat, Rice, and Nut Stuffing Serves 6 * The grandest Arab meal is a whole stuffed baby lamb. A succulent leg accompanied by the traditional stuffing called * The grandest Arab meal is a whole stuffed baby lamb. A succulent leg accompanied by the traditional stuffing called hashwa hashwa is a representative of that ideal. The meat is cooked gently, for a long time, to such melting tenderness that you can pull morsels off with your fingers. is a representative of that ideal. The meat is cooked gently, for a long time, to such melting tenderness that you can pull morsels off with your fingers.

1 leg of lamb 4 cloves garlic, cut into slivers 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper FOR THE THE STUFFING STUFFING ( (HASHWA).

1 pound ground beef 4 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 cups long-grain rice Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon allspice 2 cups meat or chicken stock (page 143) (or you can use a bouillon cube), boiling hot cup split almonds cup pistachios cup pine nuts Make slashes into the meat with a sharp-pointed knife and insert the pieces of garlic. Rub the meat all over with oil, salt, and pepper and put it in a roasting pan in a preheated 400F oven. For rare meat roast 12 minutes per pound plus 20 minutes more; for medium-rare, roast 16 minutes per pound plus 20 minutes more; for well-done, roast 20 minutes per pound plus 20 minutes more. The Middle Eastern way is well-done.

Prepare the stuffing. In a large pan, fry the meat in 2 tablespoons of the oil, turning it constantly and breaking up lumps, until it has changed color. Add the rice, and stir well for a few minutes. Then add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Pour in the boiling stock, mix well, and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender, adding a little stock or water if it becomes too dry.

Fry the mixed nuts in the remaining oil until they just begin to color, and mix them into the rice before serving.

Let the meat rest in the turned-off oven with the door open for 15 minutes before carving. Serve accompanied with the stuffing.

Variations Add to the stuffing 1 teaspoon cardamom, and pinches of ground cloves and nutmeg.

Add cup raisins to the stuffing.

Dala' Mahs.h.i.+ Stuffed Breast of Lamb Serves 6-8 * This is an old family favorite which I recommend if you don't mind taking time and trouble. You may subst.i.tute for the apricot sauce a sauce made with sour cherries. Serve with extra stuffing. * This is an old family favorite which I recommend if you don't mind taking time and trouble. You may subst.i.tute for the apricot sauce a sauce made with sour cherries. Serve with extra stuffing.

2 whole large b.r.e.a.s.t.s of lamb Oil Salt and pepper pound dried apricots-a tart, natural (not sweetened) variety, soaked in water to cover for 1 hour FOR THE THE STUFFING AND SIDE DISH STUFFING AND SIDE DISH.

2 medium-sized onions, chopped 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil pound ground beef 2 cups long-grain rice cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt and pepper cup pine nuts or chopped walnuts cup currants or raisins (optional) Ask the butcher to chine the meat and to cut a pouch between the skin and the ribs-or do the latter yourself with a long, sharp knife.

Prepare the stuffing. In a large saucepan, fry the onions in the oil until golden. Add the ground beef and fry, crus.h.i.+ng and turning it over with a spoon, until browned. Stir in the rice, add parsley, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Pour in 3 cups water. Cover the pan and simmer undisturbed over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender but still firm. Let it cool, then mix in the nuts and, if you wish, the currants.

Stuff the pouches with the rice mixture, and put the extra stuffing in an oven dish, covered with foil. Rub the b.r.e.a.s.t.s with oil, salt, and pepper, and put them in a roasting pan. Set uncovered in an oven preheated to 425F, then reduce immediately to 325F and roast for about 1 hour, or until the meat is well cooked and browned on the outside. Put the extra stuffing in for the last 20 minutes to heat through.

Put the apricots in a small pan with enough of their soaking water to cover. Bring to the boil and simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, until the apricots are very soft and the liquid is reduced. If you like, blend to a cream in the food processor.

A few minutes before serving, pour off the excess fat from the roasting pan. Turn the oven up to 450F. Pour the apricot sauce over the lamb and glaze in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Do not leave in the oven too long, as the apricots burn easily.

Variations Instead of roasting, the stuffed b.r.e.a.s.t.s may be braised on top of the stove. First they are seared in hot b.u.t.ter or oil until browned all over, then the apricots and their water are added, and the lamb is simmered gently for about 1 hour, or until it is very tender and the sauce is reduced. The b.r.e.a.s.t.s must be turned over and water added as required.

Make a sauce with pound pitted dried sour cherries instead of the apricots.

Leg of Lamb with Onions, Potatoes, and Tomatoes Serves 6 * My aunt Latifa and uncle Mousa lived in a villa in a suburb of Cairo. It was large and housed their extended family. There was no oven. Much of the cooking was done over a * My aunt Latifa and uncle Mousa lived in a villa in a suburb of Cairo. It was large and housed their extended family. There was no oven. Much of the cooking was done over a mangal mangal (portable outdoor grill) and a Primus oil heater, and trays were sent off daily to the baker to be cooked in the bread oven. This dish was sent to the baker. (portable outdoor grill) and a Primus oil heater, and trays were sent off daily to the baker to be cooked in the bread oven. This dish was sent to the baker.

1 leg of lamb (about 4 pounds) 3 or 4 cloves garlic, slivered Salt and pepper 1 pounds potatoes, thickly sliced 2 large onions, sliced 1 pound tomatoes, sliced 2 teaspoons dried rigani (wild marjoram) or oregano (optional) Pierce the leg of lamb all over with the point of a sharp knife and insert the slivers of garlic at different depths. Rub generously with salt and pepper.

Put the prepared lamb, fat side up, in a large baking dish or roasting pan, and surround it with the sliced potatoes, onions, and tomatoes. Pour in cup water, and sprinkle if you like with a little rigani rigani or oregano. or oregano.

Preheat the oven to 425F. Put in the leg of lamb and reduce the heat immediately to 325F. Roast for about 2 hours, or until done to your liking, basting occasionally with the pan juices.

Turn the vegetables over once during the cooking so that they cook evenly in the juices from the joint, and pour off excess fat. The joint should be very tender and juicy, and the vegetables quite soft. I like them practically dis-integrating, but if you prefer them to be rather more firm, add them to the roast after about half an hour's cooking, when the meat has already released some fat. Baste the vegetables when you baste the meat, and moisten occasionally with a little water if necessary.

Let the meat rest in the turned-off oven with the door open for 15 minutes before serving. Remove the lamb to a board-it makes carving easier.

Variation You can of course cook the leg of lamb without the vegetables. Here is a sauce which you can pour on each serving as you hand it out: fry a handful of blanched, slivered almonds in a drop of oil till golden, add the defatted juices from the pan and a little water, and stir in 2 tablespoons black or golden raisins.

s.h.i.+sh Kebab Grilled Meat on Skewers Serves 6 * Meats grilled on skewers have become the best-known Middle Eastern foods as the standard fare of Lebanese, Turkish, and Iranian restaurants abroad. They are a symbol, in particular, of Turkish food. Turks say that this way of cooking meat was created during the conquering era of the Ottoman Empire, when Turkish soldiers, forced to camp out in tents for months on end, discovered the pleasures of eating meat grilled out of doors on wood fires. * Meats grilled on skewers have become the best-known Middle Eastern foods as the standard fare of Lebanese, Turkish, and Iranian restaurants abroad. They are a symbol, in particular, of Turkish food. Turks say that this way of cooking meat was created during the conquering era of the Ottoman Empire, when Turkish soldiers, forced to camp out in tents for months on end, discovered the pleasures of eating meat grilled out of doors on wood fires.

Twenty years ago, on a gastronomic visit to Turkey, I went with an interpreter on an arranged tour of kebab houses in Istanbul. At every stop I was invited to eat. It became a grand marathon-une grande bouffe. At the fifth establishment they opened the refrigerated room and showed me all the prize cuts, which were later presented to me straight from the fire on a gigantic plate. As well as the kebabs and ground-meat kofta kebab kofta kebab on skewers, there were small lamb chops, kidneys, slices of calf's liver, beef steaks, on skewers, there were small lamb chops, kidneys, slices of calf's liver, beef steaks, sucuk sucuk (spicy beef sausages), and pieces of chicken. It was a gourmand's dream, but for a woman already satiated from eating elsewhere and afraid of giving offense, it was a nightmare. (spicy beef sausages), and pieces of chicken. It was a gourmand's dream, but for a woman already satiated from eating elsewhere and afraid of giving offense, it was a nightmare.

In Greece and Turkey, alternating pieces of onion, tomato, and bell pepper are threaded onto the skewers in between the cubes of meat. This looks good, but it is not a good idea, as the meat and vegetables take different times to cook and the meat becomes wet and does not get properly seared. So, if you must have roasted vegetables, have them on another skewer, or straight on the grill. In some countries, lumps of fat are pressed between pieces of meat to keep them from drying out as the fat melts.

2 pounds boned leg of lamb 2 large onions, liquidized in the food processor cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Cut the meat into 1-inch cubes. Prepare a marinade by mixing the onion juice with the oil, salt, and pepper and soak the meat in this for at least 1 hour (Iranians and Turks marinate overnight), keeping it covered in the refrigerator, and turning the pieces over at least once.

Thread the pieces of meat onto 6 skewers, preferably the flat, wide type, so that the meat does not slide.

Grill over charcoal or wood embers, making sure that the fire has stopped smoking. Place the skewers 3 inches from the fire on a well-oiled grill. Or broil under a preheated gas or electric broiler. Cook for about 7-10 minutes, turning over once, until the meat is well browned on the outside but still pink and juicy inside.

Ways of Serving Serve the kebabs on top of a thin Arab flat-bread over sprigs of flat-leaf parsley or chervil; or inside a pita bread topped with a salad of finely chopped raw tomato, cuc.u.mber, and onion with herbs.

Alternatively, place the skewers on a bed of rice or bulgur.

In Iran the rice is garnished with an egg yolk presented on the half-sh.e.l.l. The yolk is then stirred into the rice at table. This is ch.e.l.lo kebab ch.e.l.lo kebab. The Turks serve kebabs with yogurt as a sauce.

Other Popular Marinades For a Greek one, blend in the food processor 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, cup extra-virgin olive oil, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 teaspoons dried rigani rigani (wild marjoram), salt, and pepper. (wild marjoram), salt, and pepper.

For a marinade inspired by Sidqi Effendi's nineteenth-century Turkish cookery manual, blend to a cream cup olive oil, 2 onions, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, salt, and pepper.

For another Turkish marinade, blend 1 cups yogurt, 1 onion, salt, and pepper.

Additions At the same time, broil quartered onions and tomatoes and sweet peppers cut into 1-inch pieces threaded on skewers.

Broil whole medium-small eggplants at the same time, turning them until they are soft inside, and serve them cut open. In some Turkish restaurants in London's famously Turkish Stoke Newington district, they thread thick slices of eggplant between pieces of meat, and the eggplants have time to roast and become deli-ciously tender.

In Lebanon they thread cherry tomatoes and pickling onions between the pieces of meat.

Lamb cutlets, or chops, and filet of beef can be marinated and grilled or broiled at the same time so as to have a mix of meats.

By reason of the sweet smiles of the salt cellar of her mouth, blood flows from the heart as from a salted kebab.

KANJU ' 'L ISHTIHA.

(THE TREASURE OF THE THE APPEt.i.tE APPEt.i.tE).

by Abu Ishaq of s.h.i.+raz, the sixteenth-century Persian poet of food Kofta Meshweya Grilled Ground Meat on Skewers Serves 4 * In Egypt this is the favorite kebab. It is also mine. I love the soft, moist texture of the meat, and the flavors of parsley and onion. The traditional way of preparing it is to chop all the main ingredients by hand, then to chop them together. They still do this in restaurants (where it is called * In Egypt this is the favorite kebab. It is also mine. I love the soft, moist texture of the meat, and the flavors of parsley and onion. The traditional way of preparing it is to chop all the main ingredients by hand, then to chop them together. They still do this in restaurants (where it is called kofta kebab kofta kebab or or kofta alla s.h.i.+sh) kofta alla s.h.i.+sh)-but you can achieve good results with the blade of the food processor if you do each ingredient separately. For a moist, juicy kofta kofta you need a good amount of fat. Most of it will melt away in the heat of the broiler. You will need skewers with a wide, thick blade to hold the ground meat and prevent it from rolling around. If you find it difficult, you can always shape the meat into burgers (see variations). you need a good amount of fat. Most of it will melt away in the heat of the broiler. You will need skewers with a wide, thick blade to hold the ground meat and prevent it from rolling around. If you find it difficult, you can always shape the meat into burgers (see variations).

1 pounds lamb from the shoulder, with some fat Salt and pepper cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 medium onions, grated or very finely chopped Cut the meat in chunks, then blend in the food processor to a soft paste, adding salt and pepper. Put it in a bowl with the parsley and the onions-drained of juices-and knead well with your hand until well blended.

Divide the meat into 8 b.a.l.l.s and wrap each one around a skewer, pressing firmly so that it holds together in a long, flat sausage shape. Place the skewers on an oiled grill over a fire, or on a rack under the broiler, and cook for 5-8 minutes, turning over once or more, until lightly browned.

Serve with warmed pita bread or on top of those very thin Arab flatbreads or with rice or bulgur.

Accompaniments Slice 1 large onion thinly and sprinkle generously with salt. Leave for 30 minutes, until the juices run out and it loses its strong flavor. Then rinse and drain and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sumac.

Serve on a bed of chopped flat-leaf parsley and mint mixed with 1 thinly sliced onion and sprinkled with 1 tablespoon sumac.

Serve with chopped flat-leaf parsley and diced lemon (the lemon is peeled and cut into tiny cubes).

Serve with 8 or more broiled cherry tomatoes.

Roast 4 long, mild green peppers (you find them in Middle Eastern stores) until softened.

In Turkey they serve kofta kebab kofta kebab on a bed of yogurt beaten with a sprinkling of salt, pepper, and chopped parsley and mint, and topped with chopped tomatoes. on a bed of yogurt beaten with a sprinkling of salt, pepper, and chopped parsley and mint, and topped with chopped tomatoes.

Variations Use chopped fresh mint as well as parsley.

Add to the meat mixture 1 teaspoon cinnamon and teaspoon allspice.

Add to the meat teaspoon c.u.min and 1 1 teaspoon ground coriander seed. teaspoon ground coriander seed.

Add teaspoon red-pepper flakes or a pinch of chili pepper.

Instead of pressing the meat on skewers, you can make it into hamburgers and grill them or cook them in a pan filmed lightly with oil.

Cut long, thin eggplants into 1-inch slices and thread them in between lumps of kofta kofta. The skin protects the flesh from drying out. This is a specialty of Aleppo.

Yogurtlu Kebab Kofta with Tomato Sauce and Yogurt Serves 4 * Hardly any dishes were invented by restaurant chefs in Turkey, but this one was, by a man called Iskander; that is why it is also known as * Hardly any dishes were invented by restaurant chefs in Turkey, but this one was, by a man called Iskander; that is why it is also known as Iskander kebab Iskander kebab. It made its appearance in the 1920s, after the Ottoman Empire had crumbled and Turkey became a republic. The cooks who had worked in the palace kitchens and in the homes of the aristocracy (much of the aristocracy moved to Egypt) became unemployed and looked for ways to survive. Many of them opened restaurants-lokandesi and kebab houses. and kebab houses.

This dish has remained a mainstay of Turkish kebab houses, where it is sometimes served dramatically in a dome-shaped copper dish-the type that was used at the palace. On one level it reflects the preponderance of yogurt in the Turkish kitchen. I serve it in deep individual clay bowls which can be kept hot in the oven. It is a multi-layered extravaganza. There is toasted pita bread at the bottom. It is covered by a light sauce made with fresh tomatoes, topped by a layer of yogurt. This is sprinkled with olive oil which has been colored with paprika and with pine nuts. Skewers of grilled ground meat kofta kofta or small burgers (as in this recipe) are laid on top. The tomato sauce and the meat must be very hot when you a.s.semble the dish. The yogurt should be at room temperature. or small burgers (as in this recipe) are laid on top. The tomato sauce and the meat must be very hot when you a.s.semble the dish. The yogurt should be at room temperature.

RIDDLE:.

It is red like blood; it burns like fire. What is it?

ANSWER:.

Red pimento FOR THE THE TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE.

1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 4 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 1 thin pita bread Ground-lamb kofta kofta mixture, as in preceding recipe (page 238), with the same amount of meat mixture, as in preceding recipe (page 238), with the same amount of meat 2 cups plain whole-milk or thick strained yogurt (see page 110), at room temperature cups plain whole-milk or thick strained yogurt (see page 110), at room temperature 1 teaspoon paprika 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted or not 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish (optional) Put the tomatoes in a pan with 1 tablespoon of the oil, salt, pepper, and sugar, and cook over medium heat until they soften.

Toast the pita bread until it is crisp, then break it into small pieces.

Shape the ground-lamb kofta kofta into 12 or 16 small burgers. Cook them under the broiler, turning them over once, until they are brown outside but still pink inside. into 12 or 16 small burgers. Cook them under the broiler, turning them over once, until they are brown outside but still pink inside.

In each individual bowl, put a quarter of the toasted bread, cover with a quarter of the tomato sauce, and top with a layer of yogurt. Mix the paprika with the remaining oil and dribble over the yogurt, then sprinkle with pine nuts. Arrange the meat burgers on top. If you like, garnish further with chopped parsley.

Brochettes de Kefta Ground Meat Kebabs Serves 8, with 16 skewers Moroccans call their diminutive kebabs Moroccans call their diminutive kebabs brochettes brochettes, in the French manner. The streets of Fez are dotted with little braziers of glowing charcoal over which turn wood or metal skewers heavy with tiny pieces of meat, liver, or kefta kefta, enveloping pa.s.sersby with their irresistibly enticing aromas. Many spices are used in the kefta kefta, but so discreetly that you can hardly guess what has gone in.

2 pounds lamb, finely ground 2 onions, grated 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cinnamon Salt and pepper teaspoon ground chili pepper (optional) Mix finely ground meat with onions, herbs, and seasonings, and knead vigorously until very smooth and pasty. Wet your hands and divide the meat into 32 egg-sized lumps. Press them firmly around small, square-bladed skewers, two on each skewer, and form into thin sausage shapes. Cook over charcoal or under the broiler for 4-5 minutes, until done, turning over once. Be careful not to overcook, as the meat dries out quickly. Serve at once with bread.

Variations For a minty brochette brochette, mix the meat and onion with 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, 3 tablespoons chopped mint, 2 teaspoons ground c.u.min, salt, and pepper.

When serving, dribble 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil mixed with the juice of -1 lemon over the brochettes brochettes.

Arni Tou Hartiou Lamb with Grape Leaves Baked in Fillo Parcels Serves 6 * This is a version, using fillo pastry, of a Greek dish of lamb baked in parchment packets. * This is a version, using fillo pastry, of a Greek dish of lamb baked in parchment packets.

24 grape leaves, fresh or preserved in brine 1 piece of boned leg of lamb (about 2 pounds) 4-5 tablespoons olive oil Juice of lemon cup red wine Pepper 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons rigani rigani wild marjoram) or oregano wild marjoram) or oregano 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted 6 sheets fillo pastry Salt If you are using fresh grape leaves, blanch them for a few seconds in boiling water, until they become limp and their color changes. If you are using leaves preserved in brine, soak them in boiling water for 1 hour to remove their saltiness, changing the water at least once. Rinse and drain well.

Cut the meat into 6 fat slices.

In a bowl, mix the oil, lemon juice, wine, pepper, garlic, and oregano or marjoram, and turn the pieces of meat in this marinade. Leave in a cool place for hour or longer.

When you are ready to cook, brush each sheet of fillo very lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Place 2 grape leaves on each, side by side towards the middle of a long edge. Lay a piece of meat over them, sprinkle with very little salt, and cover with 2 more grape leaves.

Fold the fillo over and over the meat and leaves, wrapping them up in a loose package. Repeat with the rest of the fillo, meat, and leaves. Brush the top of each packet lightly with melted b.u.t.ter and place on an oven rack.

Bake in a preheated 325F oven for about 30 minutes, by which time the meat should be done and the fillo lightly colored. You will have to cut into one piece to make sure that it is done to your liking. Serve the packets as they are, crisp and hot.

Variations Sprinkle the meat with pound grated cheese. Kefalotyri is used in Greece, but mature cheddar is an acceptable alternative.