The Invention of Lithography Part 20

When the design has been laid on the stone clean and strongly with chemical ink, the plate can be etched and prepared, but not till the whole design is perfectly dry, because otherwise it cannot resist the action of the fluid.

The parts finished first usually are dry long before the entire work is finished. A trained eye can recognize the proper degree of dryness from the sheen, which varies with different kinds of ink, but on the whole is always duller when the design is dry than while it still is wet. It is highly necessary that the design be thoroughly dry. It is possible to keep a designed plate for years without etching it, so long as it is protected against injury.

Etching is done in two ways, painting the fluid on and pouring it on.

The former method is less circ.u.mstantial, but is used only in coa.r.s.er work, because there is always danger of damaging delicate parts of the design. It has the advantage, however, that any dirt caused by corrections will be removed. A mixture of three or four parts of water with one part of aquafortis is painted over the stone with a soft brush of fox- or badger-hair. The brush must be dipped continually because the fluid loses its power.

For the second method the stone is placed in a large wooden trough or box, provided with cross-pieces to keep the stone from the bottom. The acid, thinned down with thirty or forty parts of water, is poured over it. It is rather immaterial how much one may dilute the acid. Very weak solutions simply mean that the pouring must be repeated oftener. The fluid acts on stones according to their degree of hardness. Regard must be had, too, to the delicacy of the design, very fine lines being unable to resist etching that does not affect coa.r.s.e lines.

Only slight experience is needed to recognize the effect of the acid. By looking at the stone sidewise and against the light, the growing elevation of the design can be perceived easily. When the fatty coating caused by the soap or turpentine wash has been etched away completely, and the water adheres equally everywhere, the stone generally is sufficiently etched to be ready for preparation and printing.

For the sake of easier printing, and also so that future grinding and any desired improvement may be done on the stone, there should be a little more etching, if the design is not too delicate. But if the design is very fine, the etching absolutely must not be more than strictly necessary, because the fine lines might easily be eaten away.

Coa.r.s.er designs can bear strong etching which often may reach the depth of a thick paper. But an inordinate amount of etching is not to be recommended, even if the design can bear it, because the edges of a deeply etched line are rough and take the color so strongly that it works into the cavities and is very hard to get out.

When the stone has been properly etched, clean water is poured over it to wash away the free acid. Then the work of preparing the plate with a solution of gum arabic in four or five parts of water can begin at once, or the stone may be set aside to dry, thus giving the finer parts of the design, that may have been most affected by the acid, time to adhere again to the stone and soak in, which can occur only in the dry state.

This is entirely unnecessary with most pen drawings, but with brush and especially with crayon work it is of great value.

When the stone has been prepared with gum, it is set aside to rest for a few minutes. Then pour a few drops of water and exactly the same quant.i.ty of oil of turpentine on it, spread it in all directions uniformly and wipe the entire design off clean with a woolen rag. Hard ink, especially if it has been on the stone for some time, is more difficult to remove and a little more turpentine is required.

The stone should now be inked-in at once, because the turpentine, and with it all the fattiness, is liable to extensive evaporation, and then the stone will not take color well.

Inking-in of the pen designs is done as follows: A clean linen or woolen rag is soaked in clean water and wrung out till it is damp rather than wet. This is pa.s.sed over the whole stone so that it becomes a little wet everywhere. Immediately after this dampening, the well-inked printing-roller is pa.s.sed to and fro over the plate several times. The roller must be lifted frequently during this work so that the points of contact change. To lay the color on well and quickly, the roller should be held rather firmly in the beginning, well pressed down and used with a certain rubbing motion that will tend to lay color on the design sideways, so to speak. Then the roller must be allowed to roll to and fro a few times without much pressure, to spread the color and take away any surplus. Do not roll too long, till the stone dries, because then it will take dirt immediately. Should this occur, it must be wiped instantly with the damp cloth till it is clean again. If dirt is left too long, it will be extremely hard to remove.

Beginners usually wet their plates excessively to counteract this trouble of drying during the inking-in. This results in wiping away fine strokes, and the roller gets so wet that no good impression can be made till it has been dried sufficiently again. For this reason beginners should not use bath-sponge, because, though it is excellent, it leaves too much water on the stone unless one knows exactly how to use it.

Some printers put a little gum, others a little aquafortis into the water to wet the stone. Others use stale beer, or even urine. I consider all this unnecessary, if the stone has been prepared correctly and the color is good.

I have described the ink-rollers. I repeat that they must be uniform, soft, and elastic.

As to the inking-in color, I am not able yet to lay down a strict rule.

All that I can say, as a result of my experiments and experiences, is:--

(1) The firmer the varnish in a color is, the cleaner is the work of inking-in.

(2) The same is true the more lampblack it contains.

But in both cases the finer parts of the work are easily rubbed away, and too much lampblack makes the lines squash the impression.

(3) The toughness or fluidity of the color must bear correct proportion to the power of the press. The harder the varnish, the more power is required in the press.

(4) Tough varnish is not so liable to squash under pressure, but if it has once been pressed into the s.p.a.ces between the lines of the design it is not readily removed by the mere action of the inking-roller, and this causes more and more s.m.u.tting and, finally, total ruin to the stone.

Generally when a tough color has adhered too much, there is no other remedy than to clean the stone well with gum and oil of turpentine; and this, if done too often, damages the preparation and makes the impressions continuously poorer.

(5) Soft color spreads more readily under pressure, but is removable after each impression by merely dampening the plate.

(6) In using soft color, the paper may be kept damper than with hard colors.

(7) Soft as well as hard printing-color, if not mixed with the proper amount of varnish, has the property of producing poor, sooty impressions because of a defect called shading. Shading is caused as follows: If a drop of oil falls into a basin of clean water, a part of the oil will spread immediately. Now, a stone is wetted before inking-in. After the inking a considerable portion of dampness remains. If the ink is very fluid, it will happen often that a part of it will spread away from the design to the surrounding moisture, producing something that looks like a shadow around every part of the design. This does not occur instantly, as in the case of the pure oil, but gradually, so that it is not as noticeable when the swifter lever press is used as with the slower cylinder press or if the workmen are slow. If a stone can be dampened so exactly that with the last touch of the ink-roller the last vestige of dampness is removed, this is not likely to happen. But it is difficult to arrive at such accuracy. It is better to add enough lampblack gradually to the varnish to make it lose its elasticity, when the shading effect will cease.

(8) While shading is obviated largely through enough intermixture of lampblack or other coloring substances to take away the fluidity of the printing-color, this intermixture will cause other troubles. The finer places will not take the harder color so well, whereas at other places too much will be taken. Also an impression made with much lampblack will off-set more than one made with color in which varnish predominates.

Neither will the impressions be so black. Experience teaches that a printing-color that has less lampblack will be blacker, because the sheen of the varnish will make the color strong and lacquer-like. I have tried to invent a kind of varnish that would not be so liable to shading and thus would permit a greater fluidity with safety, but lack of time has prevented me from exhausting the possibilities. I am sure, however, that it can be done, for I have found that the common linseed oil varnish can be made to lose its property of shading by admixture of fatty and resinous bodies. For instance, the addition of a slight amount of Venetian turpentine permits a greater fluidity. Very good is the following composition: Six parts linseed oil, two parts tallow, one part wax, melted together and thickened by boiling down and burning like the ordinary linseed oil varnish.

(9) The inner composition of the stone and the temperature have a considerable effect on the print and also react on the color. A stone, especially a porous one, has much less internal moisture on very warm, dry days. Then the dampening done before each impression often evaporates instantly and unequally, so that it is difficult to ink-in uniformly with a soft color or one lacking varnish, unless one wets the stone unduly, which, again, injures the impressions. In that case one must use a color that is firmer than should be used according to ordinary rule. It is also well, before printing from the stone, to lay it in clean water for a few hours, or overnight, so that it may soak in enough moisture to make it easier to dampen.

(10) If the drying of the printing-color is to be hastened, as is necessary with some work, a little finely powdered mennig may be mixed in. Finely powdered litharge of silver dries still better, but only a small amount of printing-color must be mixed with it, because it toughens within an hour. It will not keep for another day, because the mennig will dissolve after a while.

In printing from the pen design, the following must be observed:--

Even if the stone has been inked-in uniformly and well with a good color, the impression can be spoiled in various ways: if the paper has not been dampened as required by the nature of the color and the power of the press; if the pressure is not in proportion to the consistency of the color; if the sc.r.a.per is not even, and if the leather is not properly stretched.

Therefore care must be taken in printing pen designs:--

(1) The paper must not touch the inked design till the sc.r.a.per forces it down. It is not advisable to lay the paper directly on the stone. It should be in the printing-frame, which, as already described, should be so arranged that it will keep the paper at least one fourth inch away from the stone.

(2) The proper dampening of the paper is not a matter of the greatest importance in pen designs, so long as it is not too wet, in which case it causes squashed impressions, does not take color uniformly, and, if the printing-color is tough, will stick to the stone. In general, the rule holds good that the degree of dampening must be in proportion to the firmness of the varnish, and that a softer varnish permits increased dampening. Dampening is done chiefly to soften the paper, and the qualities of the paper dictate the amount necessary to a large extent.

(3) The tension of the press must be more powerful with hard printing-color and carefully graduated with soft color. Besides this, it depends--

(4) On the structure of the sc.r.a.per. If it is not absolutely uniform and well fitted to the stone, more power is needed. Thus the defect often is corrected; but this may make the color squash and spread in other spots, therefore it always is better to correct any defects in the sc.r.a.per. The sharper the sc.r.a.per is, the clearer are the impressions, because then the whole force of the pressure concentrates on the smallest area. But usually the sc.r.a.per soon becomes dull, and then the press must have more power.

(5) Insufficient tension of the leather also may produce poor impressions, especially if the color is soft and the paper very wet.

Therefore as soon as impressions appear blurred and squashed, the leather should be tautened and well lubricated with tallow.

Now we come to an important matter, namely, the correction of errors. It does not happen often that a drawing or inscription can be made entirely without error, and it would be a great imperfection in lithography if these mistakes could not be corrected at once.

Errors may be observed before etching or afterward. Different ways of making corrections are required.

It is very easy to make corrections before etching. If the error is observed as soon as it is made, while the ink still is wet, it may be corrected by merely wiping out the defect with the finger. If the ink is dry, oil of turpentine is required. In each case the ink must be well removed so that it will not resist the etching fluid later. If only tiny spots are defective they can be corrected by delicate use of a sharp eraser. Defects that need merely to be destroyed without drawing anything else in their place may be sc.r.a.ped off with a knife or with pumice stone.

After the plate is etched, errors demand treatments that differ according to whether a defect or blemish is merely to be removed, whether something else is to be drawn in place of the removed part, or if something has been forgotten and is to be added. The area of the correction also makes a difference.

If it is only a matter of removing small defects or places, delicate erasure will do. The same, or polis.h.i.+ng with pumice, is done if the area is larger. Then the corrected spots must be coated with a mixture of gum and aquafortis, using a soft brush very carefully that it may not touch any of the sound places.

If something new is to be drawn in, the process is different. Ink-in the stone very clean, and coat it with gum and water that is very thin and delicate. Let it dry. Then sc.r.a.pe the defective places away very carefully or grind them away by rubbing with pumice stone. Coat the spots cautiously with soap-water or oil of turpentine and clean off again as thoroughly as possible. (This coating is not necessary in the case of a few isolated small lines or points.) Now draw in your new design with chemical ink, and as soon as this is dry, etch the corrections carefully with a small brush and then prepare with gum.

The third case, where something has been forgotten, is treated almost the same way. If it is only a very small thing, the stone need merely be sc.r.a.ped carefully. Then the drawing may be put in, preferably with a thicker ink. If the area is large, the stone must be ground where the design is to be added, coated with soap-water or oil of turpentine, and then treated as explained before.

When the stone has been corrected and prepared for printing, it can be used at once or set aside for some length of time. In the latter case it should be inked with a firm color and coated delicately with gum solution. Then it can be held as long as desired. Coating with gum solution is advisable not merely for storing away, but for every interruption of printing that lasts more than five minutes.

If a stone has stood longer than a day without being freshly inked, it must be wiped off first of all with gum solution and oil of turpentine, that it may take the color well, so that the very first impression may be perfect. During the progress of printing, the following points are important: Uniform distribution of water, the same of printing-color, frequent inking of the inking-roller, and the very greatest speed possible.

In the main points the brush process is like that of the pen. The chief difference is that it is not possible to make the brush strokes as strong as those with the pen. Therefore, brush work does not resist etching so well and must not be treated too powerfully. Much depends on the treatment of the brush and the consistency of the ink. The brush does not permit such a flow of ink as does the pen, and generally requires one that is more fluid. A good brush ink is made as follows:--

Mix two parts of pure white wax and one part of good tallow soap into a ma.s.s not larger than a hazel nut. The ink loses its good properties quickly and should be made fresh day by day. Mix the two materials with a thick knife on a lukewarm (but positively not warm) stone, separate into small parts and moisten with rain water. As soon as the water has softened the ma.s.s a trifle, add as much lampblack as will lie on two knife points and mix the whole ma.s.s together once more till it is thoroughly mixed and quite firm. When required, a bit of this is rubbed down in a clean saucer with rain water.

As a better flow of ink is needed for brush work than for pen work, it is evident that it would not be requisite to treat the stone with soap-water and oil of turpentine, as for pen work. However, it often pays to make certain fine lines with the pen, and therefore it is better to combine both processes and prepare the stone as for pen work. It is well, however, after drying the coating, to rub it very gently with dry sand, which will not make the pen strokes flow to any extent and still will prepare the stone so that it will take the brush strokes well and not make necessary such strong etching.

If a brush design is to be etched in high relief, for ease in printing or for durability, it must be etched only to the extent absolutely required at first. Then it must be prepared with gum and inked-in with good acid-proof color. Set it aside for a while, that the color may concentrate so that it will resist the acid well, and then etch the stone to the desired degree. After etching, wash with water, coat with gum and put aside to dry. Owing to this latter procedure any fine parts that may have been unduly affected by the acid will adhere to the plate anew and it can be printed then like a pen design.