The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants Part 27

_Washed_ acacia pomatum, 6 oz.

" rose pomatum, 4 oz.

Manipulate as for marrow pomatum.

In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufacturing perfumers used the washed French pomatums and the washed French oils for making their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage and by maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles have been subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief. After the spirit has been on the pomatums, &c., it is poured off; the residue is then called _washed_ pomatum, and still retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases.

For pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to subst.i.tute rose, jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the acacia pomatum in the above formulae.

POMADE DOUBLE, MILLEFLEURS.

Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all made in winter, with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-third best French oils; in summer, equal parts.

POMADE A LA HELIOTROPE.

French rose pomade, 1 lb.

Vanilla oil, 1/2 lb.

Huile de jasmine, 4 oz.

" tubereuse, 2 oz.

" fleur d'orange, 2 oz.

Otto of almonds, 6 drops.

" cloves, 3 drops.

HUILE ANTIQUE. (_A la Heliotrope_.)

Same as the above, subst.i.tuting rose oil for the pomade.

PHILOCOME.

The name of this preparation, which is a compound of Greek and Latin, signifying "a friend to the hair," was first introduced by the Parisian perfumers; and a very good name it is, for Philocome is undoubtedly one of the best unguents for the hair that is made.

PHILOCOME. (_First quality_.)

White wax, 10 oz.

Fresh rose-oil, 1 lb.

" acacia oil, 1/2 lb.

" jasmine oil, 1/2 lb.

" fleur d'orange oil, 1 lb.

" tubereuse oil, 1 lb.

Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath, at the lowest possible temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour out the Philocome until it is nearly cool enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or at least of the same temperature as the Philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the material as it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture.

PHILOCOME. (_Second quality_.)

White wax, 5 oz.

Almond oil, 2 lbs.

Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.

" lemon, 1/2 oz.

" lavender, 2 drachms.

" cloves, 1 drachm.

FLUID PHILOCOME.

Take 1 ounce of wax to 1 pound of oil.

POMMADE HONGROISE. (_For the Moustache_.)

Lead plaster, 1 lb.

Acacia huile, 2 oz.

Otto of roses, 2 drachms.

" cloves, 1 drachm.

" almonds, 1 drachm.

Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil; mix the ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water.

Lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil: it is best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists.

HARD OR STICK POMATUMS.

Purified suet, 1 lb.

White wax, 1 lb.

Jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb.

Tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 lb.

Otto of rose, 1 drachm.

ANOTHER FORM,--_cheaper_.

Suet, 1 lb.

Wax, 1/2 lb.

Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.

" ca.s.sia, 1 drachm.

The above recipes produce WHITE BATONS. BROWN and BLACK BATONS are also in demand. They are made in the same way as the above, but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's.

BLACK AND BROWN COSMETIQUE.

Such as is sold by RIMMEL, is prepared with a nicely-scented soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber. The soap is melted, and the coloring added while the soap is soft; when cold it is cut up in oblong pieces.

It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied with a small brush and water.

SECTION XIII.

HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY.

By way of personal adornment, few practices are of more ancient origin than that of painting the face, dyeing the hair, and blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes.