The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants Part 29

SECTION XIV.

ABSORBENT POWDERS.

A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights of such powders are used in this country annually. They are princ.i.p.ally composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc--of Hauy, steat.i.te (soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bis.m.u.th, and oxide of zinc, &c. The most popular is what is termed

VIOLET POWDER.

Wheat starch, 12 lbs.

Orris-root powder, 2 lbs.

Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz.

" bergamot, 3/4 oz.

" cloves, 2 drachms.

ROSE FACE POWDER.

Wheat starch, 7 lbs.

Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.

Otto of rose, 2 drachms.

" santal, 2 "

PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER

Is pure wheat starch.

FACE POWDER.

Starch, 1 lb.

Oxide of Bis.m.u.th, 4 oz.

PERLE POWDER.

French chalk, 1 lb.

Oxide of bis.m.u.th, 1 oz.

Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.

BLANC DE PERLE

Is pure oxide of bis.m.u.th in powder.

FRENCH BLANC

Is levigated talc pa.s.sed through a silk sieve.

This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere.

LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE).

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bis.m.u.th, prepared thus:--

Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.

Oxide of bis.m.u.th, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.

CALCINED TALC

Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind.

ROUGE AND RED PAINTS.

These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that termed

BLOOM OF ROSES.

Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz.

Finest carmine, 1/4 oz.

Rose-water, 1 pint.

Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz.

Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.

Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of Europe! M. t.i.tard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the princ.i.p.al operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.

"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made."--DR. URE.

In the _Encyclopedie Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine; the number of formulae will convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.

a.n.a.lysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.

Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them.

TOILET ROUGES.

Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth. M. t.i.tard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually; it then a.s.sumes a beautiful green tint.

This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has been imported into this country for many years.

When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color a.s.sumes a beautiful rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower (_Carthamus tinctorius_); from this plant also is made

PINK SAUCERS.

The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.