Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 5

Serve the artichokes warm or at room temperature. (The artichokes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The artichokes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

TOMATO.

SERVES 6 PHOTO BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE.

3 large ripe tomatoes, such as Brandywine, beefsteak, or Jersey 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt Cut the tomatoes in half. Rub the toasted bruschetta with the cut sides of the tomato halves, squeezing the tomatoes so that the bread absorbs the juice and is coated with the pulp and seeds. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and serve.

LARDO.

SERVES 6 PHOTO BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE.

2 ounces lardo (cured fatback), preferably from Salumi Artisan Cured Meats (see Sources), chilled and very thinly sliced Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Arrange the slices of lardo on the bruschetta and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

BROCCOLI RABE.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUPS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 8 ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed Maldon or other flaky sea salt teaspoon hot red pepper flakes A 4-ounce chunk of ricotta salata for grating Combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the garlic in a large pot and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the broccoli rabe and cook, stirring and tossing, until beginning to wilt, 2 to 3 minutes. Add cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli rabe is very soft, about 20 minutes. Drain if necessary, and transfer to a bowl.

Season the broccoli rabe with salt to taste and the red pepper flakes, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Serve warm or at room temperature. (The broccoli rabe can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The broccoli rabe can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Arrange the broccoli rabe on top of the bruschetta and grate some cheese over each one.

CECI.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUPS PHOTO BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE CUPS PHOTO BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced Maldon or other flaky sea salt Hot red pepper flakes One 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and red pepper flakes, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the chickpeas, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with additional salt and/or red pepper flakes if necessary and serve warm or at room temperature. (The chickpeas can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The chickpeas can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Divide the chickpeas among the bruschetta, mas.h.i.+ng the chickpeas with a fork as you do so. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

ONION RAGU.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUPS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 pound sweet onions, such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, or Bermuda onions, thinly sliced 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Combine the olive oil, onions, and garlic in a large pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are beginning to soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 1 1/3 cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, 15 to 20 minutes. If necessary, increase the heat to high and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated. cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, 15 to 20 minutes. If necessary, increase the heat to high and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated.

Taste the onions and add additional salt and/or pepper if necessary. Remove from the heat and serve warm or at room temperature. (The onions can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The onions can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

LEEK RAGU.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP.

cup extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 pound leeks, trimmed, halved lengthwise, cut into -inch-thick slices, and washed well Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until soft, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1 1/3 cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook gently until the leeks are very soft, about 15 minutes. If necessary, increase the heat to high and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated. cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook gently until the leeks are very soft, about 15 minutes. If necessary, increase the heat to high and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated.

Taste the leeks and add additional salt and/or pepper if necessary. Remove from the heat and serve warm or at room temperature. (The leeks can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The leeks can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) EGGPLANT.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS.

1 pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil cup Pom strained tomatoes 2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Put the eggplant in a colander set on a plate, sprinkle generously with salt, and let stand for 20 minutes.

Preheat the broiler. Rinse the eggplant, drain, and pat dry. Toss with 2 tablespoons of the oil and spread on a baking sheet. Broil, stirring and turning the eggplant occasionally, until it is charred in spots and just tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Meanwhile, bring the tomato sauce to a boil in a small saucepan and boil, stirring occasionally, until as thick as ketchup. Stir in the mint and red pepper flakes.

Add the tomato mixture to the eggplant, stirring well. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and serve warm or at room temperature. (The eggplant can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The eggplant can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

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Cheese At Otto, the centerpiece of the antipasto station is the cheese. The arrangement is simple but important-and when serving cheese at home, the presentation helps lead your guests' mind a bit. So always arrange the cheeses you are serving with a little style on a tray, or even on a board on your kitchen counter.

We serve apricot mostarda and black truffle honey with our cheese plates (see BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE). Other cheese condiments we love include amarena cherries (see Sources), membrillo membrillo (quince paste), pomegranate mola.s.ses, pear chutney, fig jam...the list goes on. (quince paste), pomegranate mola.s.ses, pear chutney, fig jam...the list goes on.

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO is the undisputed king of cheeses, and its production is strictly regulated under D.O.C. laws: the cheese must have been made entirely in a restricted area that includes only the provinces of Parma, Modena, and Reggio-Emilia and parts of Bologna and Mantova. The rind of true Parmigiano is always imprinted all over with the term "Parmigiano-Reggiano," verifying its authenticity. Some Parmigiano enthusiasts claim to prefer cheeses made in the late spring and summer months, when the animals' feed is fresh gra.s.s and wheat. I like all of them, but I do prefer a younger cheese for eating unadorned or with balsamic vinegar and an older cheese for grating over my pasta and risotto. is the undisputed king of cheeses, and its production is strictly regulated under D.O.C. laws: the cheese must have been made entirely in a restricted area that includes only the provinces of Parma, Modena, and Reggio-Emilia and parts of Bologna and Mantova. The rind of true Parmigiano is always imprinted all over with the term "Parmigiano-Reggiano," verifying its authenticity. Some Parmigiano enthusiasts claim to prefer cheeses made in the late spring and summer months, when the animals' feed is fresh gra.s.s and wheat. I like all of them, but I do prefer a younger cheese for eating unadorned or with balsamic vinegar and an older cheese for grating over my pasta and risotto.

PECORINO ROMANO, the familiar firm sheep's-milk cheese, is named for the original Romans who made and ate so much of it, but today it is produced not necessarily in or near Rome-it is now made in Maremma, Sardegna, parts of Abruzzo, and in Lazio. When young and recently opened, pecorino romano is an excellent table cheese, often paired with fresh pears or figs. When aged, its saltiness makes it almost exclusively a grating cheese. It is indispensable in pasta dishes such as bucatini all'amatriciana and rigatoni cacio e pepe, but it is also excellent as the saline component in many vegetable dishes, especially when paired with guanciale as the cooking fat.

PECORINO DI FOSSA, an aged sheep's-milk cheese produced in Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche, has a rich, earthy flavor. Often wrapped in the leaves of chestnut or walnut trees, the cheese is aged in caves an aged sheep's-milk cheese produced in Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche, has a rich, earthy flavor. Often wrapped in the leaves of chestnut or walnut trees, the cheese is aged in caves (fosse) (fosse) for a minimum of 3 months. It is traditionally unearthed and celebrated on the Feast of Santa Caterina in late November. It is most often grated over pasta, but it can also be enjoyed on its own. I love it with its soulmate, black truffles, served in the form of honey (see BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE). for a minimum of 3 months. It is traditionally unearthed and celebrated on the Feast of Santa Caterina in late November. It is most often grated over pasta, but it can also be enjoyed on its own. I love it with its soulmate, black truffles, served in the form of honey (see BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE).

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TUADA is an unusual Tuscan pecorino, in that we cannot be sure from the label if there is not a touch of cow's milk along with the sheep's milk in it as well. Aged for 60 days and thus referred to as " is an unusual Tuscan pecorino, in that we cannot be sure from the label if there is not a touch of cow's milk along with the sheep's milk in it as well. Aged for 60 days and thus referred to as "semi stagionato," it is a semi-firm cheese with a nutty flavor, a crazy bubbly curd, and a cement-gray outer surface. It makes a mean salad with fresh hard pears, but it also grates well over a pizza Margherita, in combination with fresh mozzarella, for serious depth of flavor.

VENTO D'ESTATE is a cow's-milk cheese that is aged in nests of freshly mown hay in wine barrels, both of which contribute to its unique flavor and aroma (its name means "summer breeze"). Made near Treviso, in the Veneto, by Antonio Carpendo, it has only been produced since the late 1990s. With a firm but crumbly texture, it has a rich, somewhat sharp taste and goes well with a robust red wine. is a cow's-milk cheese that is aged in nests of freshly mown hay in wine barrels, both of which contribute to its unique flavor and aroma (its name means "summer breeze"). Made near Treviso, in the Veneto, by Antonio Carpendo, it has only been produced since the late 1990s. With a firm but crumbly texture, it has a rich, somewhat sharp taste and goes well with a robust red wine.

CACIOTTA cheeses, which may be made with ewe's and/or cow's milk, are produced in Tuscany, Umbria, and New York State. The American one is made by Jody Sommers from cow's milk, and it is rubbed with tomato paste before it is aged for 100 days. The Tuscan and Umbrian ones are made from a blend of cow's and ewe's milk and are often the vehicles for flavorings such as truffles-go for the plain ones, please. cheeses, which may be made with ewe's and/or cow's milk, are produced in Tuscany, Umbria, and New York State. The American one is made by Jody Sommers from cow's milk, and it is rubbed with tomato paste before it is aged for 100 days. The Tuscan and Umbrian ones are made from a blend of cow's and ewe's milk and are often the vehicles for flavorings such as truffles-go for the plain ones, please.

BAITA FRIULI is an unpasteurized cow's-milk cheese, aged for roughly 5 months, from Italy's Friuli-Venezia region, near the Slovenian border. It has a fruity, slightly spicy flavor similar to that of a good Swiss Gruyere. It can be served as part of a cheese plate or used for cooking, in a fondue or for grating. is an unpasteurized cow's-milk cheese, aged for roughly 5 months, from Italy's Friuli-Venezia region, near the Slovenian border. It has a fruity, slightly spicy flavor similar to that of a good Swiss Gruyere. It can be served as part of a cheese plate or used for cooking, in a fondue or for grating.

BRA cheeses, made with unpasteurized cow's milk, are named for the town of Bra in Italy's Piedmont, but they are not made there-they are actually produced on the Cuneo plains. They are sold either cheeses, made with unpasteurized cow's milk, are named for the town of Bra in Italy's Piedmont, but they are not made there-they are actually produced on the Cuneo plains. They are sold either duro duro (firm) or (firm) or tenero tenero (soft or tender), and the (soft or tender), and the BRA TENERO BRA TENERO we like is semi-soft and mild. we like is semi-soft and mild.

UBRIACO, a cow's-milk cheese from the Veneto, is produced by the same dude who makes Vento d'Estate. It is aged in red wine ( a cow's-milk cheese from the Veneto, is produced by the same dude who makes Vento d'Estate. It is aged in red wine (ubriaco means "drunk"), and it is moist but firm, with a somewhat sweet but sharp and delightfully spicy flavor. Its granular texture is similar to Parmigiano, with an off-the-cuff scent of pineapple. means "drunk"), and it is moist but firm, with a somewhat sweet but sharp and delightfully spicy flavor. Its granular texture is similar to Parmigiano, with an off-the-cuff scent of pineapple.

CASTEL ROSSO, an ancient cow's-milk cheese from Piedmont, is a semi-firm cheese with a crumbly texture and a mild, slightly tangy flavor that whispers mushrooms to me. Smoother in texture and softer under heat than its aged cousin Castel Magno, this champ begs to sing melted on a bruschetta or a pizza bianca. an ancient cow's-milk cheese from Piedmont, is a semi-firm cheese with a crumbly texture and a mild, slightly tangy flavor that whispers mushrooms to me. Smoother in texture and softer under heat than its aged cousin Castel Magno, this champ begs to sing melted on a bruschetta or a pizza bianca.

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BRUNET is a Piemontese fresh goat's-milk cheese with a rich, slightly tangy flavor and a creamy, almost silky, texture. It works very well as a light player on a plate with three or four more intense cheeses. is a Piemontese fresh goat's-milk cheese with a rich, slightly tangy flavor and a creamy, almost silky, texture. It works very well as a light player on a plate with three or four more intense cheeses.

MOZZARELLA DI BUFALA has more flavor than cow's-milk mozzarella; it is sweet with a slight tang and a creamy, milky bite (although some artisa.n.a.l producers are now using cow's milk for their mozzarella, with slightly different but very good results). Mozzarella di bufala is available salted or unsalted; it can also be smoked. has more flavor than cow's-milk mozzarella; it is sweet with a slight tang and a creamy, milky bite (although some artisa.n.a.l producers are now using cow's milk for their mozzarella, with slightly different but very good results). Mozzarella di bufala is available salted or unsalted; it can also be smoked.

JOE'S DAIRY MOZZARELLA, made at 156 Sullivan Street in New York's Soho by our pal Anthony Campanelli, is the epitome of fresh handmade mozzarella in the USA: clean, fresh, and tasting only of milk. We use it on pizzas that need a touch of lactic love but do not need any more moisture, like that exuded by a mozzarella di bufala from Campania. Check out the store for other great snackage as well. made at 156 Sullivan Street in New York's Soho by our pal Anthony Campanelli, is the epitome of fresh handmade mozzarella in the USA: clean, fresh, and tasting only of milk. We use it on pizzas that need a touch of lactic love but do not need any more moisture, like that exuded by a mozzarella di bufala from Campania. Check out the store for other great snackage as well.