Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 6

BURRATA, like mozzarella, is a "pulled-curd" cheese, but this cow's-milk (traditionally made with buffalo milk) cheese has a surprise inside: the cheese is shaped into a pouch around a rich, creamy, melting center of mozzarella curds mixed with cream. like mozzarella, is a "pulled-curd" cheese, but this cow's-milk (traditionally made with buffalo milk) cheese has a surprise inside: the cheese is shaped into a pouch around a rich, creamy, melting center of mozzarella curds mixed with cream.

STRACCHINO is in fact a family and style of cow's-milk cheeses from Lombardy, also made in the Piemonte and Veneto. The name refers to cattle that are tired ( is in fact a family and style of cow's-milk cheeses from Lombardy, also made in the Piemonte and Veneto. The name refers to cattle that are tired (straco in dialect, in dialect, stanco stanco in Italian) after the end-of-summer trek down from their mountain-grazing vacations. Sometimes called stracchino di crescenza, or just crescenza, these cheeses have a rich, acidic flavor with a soft, almost runny texture at room temperature. Both Taleggio and Toma Piemontese are stracchino cheeses, each a little more pungent due to the rind-was.h.i.+ng and aging strategies involved. in Italian) after the end-of-summer trek down from their mountain-grazing vacations. Sometimes called stracchino di crescenza, or just crescenza, these cheeses have a rich, acidic flavor with a soft, almost runny texture at room temperature. Both Taleggio and Toma Piemontese are stracchino cheeses, each a little more pungent due to the rind-was.h.i.+ng and aging strategies involved.

COACH FARM TRIPLE CREAM, an aged goat's-milk cheese from my wife, Susi's, family farm in New York's Hudson Valley, has a rich, almost sweet, b.u.t.tery flavor that defines what great American cheese making can be. It is an excellent cheese plate choice, and it also does well melted in a pasta like cacio e pepe or in the sophisticated mac-and-cheese of any rich man or woman. an aged goat's-milk cheese from my wife, Susi's, family farm in New York's Hudson Valley, has a rich, almost sweet, b.u.t.tery flavor that defines what great American cheese making can be. It is an excellent cheese plate choice, and it also does well melted in a pasta like cacio e pepe or in the sophisticated mac-and-cheese of any rich man or woman.

COACH FARM GREEN PEPPERCORN BRICK, also from Susi's family, is a crumbly aged goat's-milk cheese that is studded with green peppercorns. It goes very well with fruit condiments, such as our apricot mostarda. also from Susi's family, is a crumbly aged goat's-milk cheese that is studded with green peppercorns. It goes very well with fruit condiments, such as our apricot mostarda.

FRESH RICOTTA is not actually a cheese, but a by-product of the cheese-making process. Its name means "recooked," and it is traditionally made from the whey left over from the day's cheese making, reheated until it forms curds and then drained. Italian ricotta is usually made from whey from sheep's or water buffalo milk; most American ricotta is made from cow's-milk whey. Fresh Italian ricotta has a mild, nutty, sweet flavor and a drier texture than most American ricottas. is not actually a cheese, but a by-product of the cheese-making process. Its name means "recooked," and it is traditionally made from the whey left over from the day's cheese making, reheated until it forms curds and then drained. Italian ricotta is usually made from whey from sheep's or water buffalo milk; most American ricotta is made from cow's-milk whey. Fresh Italian ricotta has a mild, nutty, sweet flavor and a drier texture than most American ricottas.

SMOKED RICOTTA is a smoked log or "b.u.t.ton" of fresh sheep's-milk ricotta from Puglia or Calabria. Ours is made by Caseificio Abbasciano. It has a delicate smoky tang that does not overwhelm the creamy, sheepy flavor and a moist texture reminiscent of wet sand. We like it crumbled over pastas with tomato-based sauces as well as on a cheese board. is a smoked log or "b.u.t.ton" of fresh sheep's-milk ricotta from Puglia or Calabria. Ours is made by Caseificio Abbasciano. It has a delicate smoky tang that does not overwhelm the creamy, sheepy flavor and a moist texture reminiscent of wet sand. We like it crumbled over pastas with tomato-based sauces as well as on a cheese board.

MARZOLINO is an exceptional semi-soft young pecorino toscano with a smooth, creamy texture and a mild nutty flavor. This sheep's-milk cheese is released each March, hence the name. Unaged Marzolino is called Raviggiuolo and is rarely s.h.i.+pped, as it is delicate and highly perishable. If you see either one, buy it and eat it at home behind closed doors. is an exceptional semi-soft young pecorino toscano with a smooth, creamy texture and a mild nutty flavor. This sheep's-milk cheese is released each March, hence the name. Unaged Marzolino is called Raviggiuolo and is rarely s.h.i.+pped, as it is delicate and highly perishable. If you see either one, buy it and eat it at home behind closed doors.

CACIO DI ROMA, a semi-firm sheep's-milk cheese from Lazio, is one of our favorites. It has a smooth texture and a mild flavor, and because it melts well, it is used in many pastas and other dishes, but it can also be served on its own. a semi-firm sheep's-milk cheese from Lazio, is one of our favorites. It has a smooth texture and a mild flavor, and because it melts well, it is used in many pastas and other dishes, but it can also be served on its own.

BEL PAESE is a soft, creamy, mild cow's-milk cheese invented in the twentieth century to mimic a French melting cheese. True Italian Bel Paese comes from Lombardy. It can be served on a cheese plate or used in cooking, but it works best for me as a second or third cheese on a pizza. is a soft, creamy, mild cow's-milk cheese invented in the twentieth century to mimic a French melting cheese. True Italian Bel Paese comes from Lombardy. It can be served on a cheese plate or used in cooking, but it works best for me as a second or third cheese on a pizza.

TALEGGIO, a soft-ripened cow's-milk cheese from Lombardy, is a member of the stracchino clan. It has a washed rind that goes from a straw yellow when young and firm to a deep orange when older and runny. With a silky texture and a strong flavor even when young, the fragrant cheese becomes more a.s.sertive and tangy as it matures, and when aged perfectly, it can develop crystallized formations in the crust. a soft-ripened cow's-milk cheese from Lombardy, is a member of the stracchino clan. It has a washed rind that goes from a straw yellow when young and firm to a deep orange when older and runny. With a silky texture and a strong flavor even when young, the fragrant cheese becomes more a.s.sertive and tangy as it matures, and when aged perfectly, it can develop crystallized formations in the crust.

BLU DI LANGA is a creamy, mild semi-soft blue cheese from the Piemonte region of Italy. It is made from cow's, sheep's, and goat's milk and has a Brie-like curd marked by pale blue striations. is a creamy, mild semi-soft blue cheese from the Piemonte region of Italy. It is made from cow's, sheep's, and goat's milk and has a Brie-like curd marked by pale blue striations.

GORGONZOLA, created outside of Milano in Lombardia, is a blue-veined cow's-milk cheese that is on the level of Parmigiano-Reggiano in terms of greatness. Creamy and rich, with a flavor that goes from powerful and restrained to huge and voluptuous as it ages, it is a perfect cheese to serve instead of dessert when there is still a great wine on the table. We love it with amarene cherries, but it is also perfect with raw autumn fruits and exquisite alone with just crusty bread. created outside of Milano in Lombardia, is a blue-veined cow's-milk cheese that is on the level of Parmigiano-Reggiano in terms of greatness. Creamy and rich, with a flavor that goes from powerful and restrained to huge and voluptuous as it ages, it is a perfect cheese to serve instead of dessert when there is still a great wine on the table. We love it with amarene cherries, but it is also perfect with raw autumn fruits and exquisite alone with just crusty bread.

SAMPIETRINO, a cow's- and sheep's-milk blend from Lombardia, is aged for 120 days. The name comes from the shape, which is reminiscent of the cobblestones used to pave Rome. Hard as a rock outside but creamy and rich deep within, this is a great cheese plate offering for the conundrum it creates with its presentation tableside. a cow's- and sheep's-milk blend from Lombardia, is aged for 120 days. The name comes from the shape, which is reminiscent of the cobblestones used to pave Rome. Hard as a rock outside but creamy and rich deep within, this is a great cheese plate offering for the conundrum it creates with its presentation tableside.

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Cheese Condiments Apricot Mostarda MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS PHOTO OPPOSITE.

4 cups (about 1 pound) dried apricots, thinly sliced cup Simple Syrup (GELATO & SORBETTO) cup dry white wine 1 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon mustard seeds 1 tablespoon mustard oil (see Sources) Combine the apricots, simple syrup, and wine in a medium pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes to soften the apricots.

Transfer to a bowl and stir in the pepper flakes, mustard seeds, and mustard oil. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight before serving. (The mostarda can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.) (The mostarda can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.) Black Truffle Honey MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS PHOTO OPPOSITE.

2 cups honey One 6-ounce can black truffle tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, drained Combine the honey and truffles, mixing well. Stir in one of the flavorings listed below if desired. (The honey can be refrigerated for up to 6 months; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The honey can be refrigerated for up to 6 months; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Variations: For each cup of honey, add 2 tablespoons toasted fennel seeds, 2 tablespoons crushed pink or green peppercorns, 1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns, or 3 tablespoons toasted caraway seeds.

Note: To toast seeds, heat them in a dry heavy skillet over medium heat until fragrant and very slightly darker, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.

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4.

INSALATA.

There is no question that, as a category, the most nouris.h.i.+ng and healthy things to eat from the entire world of soil and gardens are the edible leafy foliage and greens that live in the sun above the earth itself. High in content of just about everything good for you, including calcium, unstorable vitamin C, vitamin E, beta-carotene, and fiber, they are low in calories, have no cholesterol, and are fat free. They are crunchy and crisp if you want them to be, but they also perform well when wilted with a warm dressing or sitting under a small portion of protein-meat, fish, or grains. They are a virtual kitchen-pantry painter's palette in that they are totally adaptable to almost any dish and, better than that, no one has ever told you to eat less salad! The following are some of our favorites, and the ingredients in these recipes can be subst.i.tuted in and out at will for anything that looks better or fresher or is in season wherever you are. There are very few vegetables that we do not like both raw and cooked, so feel free to experiment with both sides of the coin-almost anything goes. that, as a category, the most nouris.h.i.+ng and healthy things to eat from the entire world of soil and gardens are the edible leafy foliage and greens that live in the sun above the earth itself. High in content of just about everything good for you, including calcium, unstorable vitamin C, vitamin E, beta-carotene, and fiber, they are low in calories, have no cholesterol, and are fat free. They are crunchy and crisp if you want them to be, but they also perform well when wilted with a warm dressing or sitting under a small portion of protein-meat, fish, or grains. They are a virtual kitchen-pantry painter's palette in that they are totally adaptable to almost any dish and, better than that, no one has ever told you to eat less salad! The following are some of our favorites, and the ingredients in these recipes can be subst.i.tuted in and out at will for anything that looks better or fresher or is in season wherever you are. There are very few vegetables that we do not like both raw and cooked, so feel free to experiment with both sides of the coin-almost anything goes.

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Radicchio & Ginger Salad [image]

Asparagus & Pecorino Salad [image]

Romaine & Red Onion Salad [image]

Three-Bean Salad [image]

Summer Caprese Salad [image]

Misticanza

Radicchio & Ginger Salad SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

2 ounces young ginger, peeled 1 pounds radicchio, cored and each head cut into 8 wedges cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar cup lemon agrumato oil (see Sources) or cup extra virgin olive oil plus a generous pinch of grated lemon zest cup extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Using a Benriner (j.a.panese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer, thinly slice the ginger; or slice it paper-thin with a very sharp knife. Combine the radicchio and ginger in a large bowl, tossing gently.

Whisk the vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the oils, then whisk in salt and pepper to taste.

Toss the salad with half the vinaigrette, and serve the remainder on the side.

Asparagus & Pecorino Salad SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

1 pound asparagus, tough bottom ends snapped off 2 to 3 ounces pecorino romano cup Lemon Vinaigrette (Vegetable Antipasti) Kosher salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Using a Benriner (j.a.panese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer, or a vegetable peeler, thinly shave the asparagus, making long diagonal shavings. Transfer to a medium bowl.

Shave or thinly slice the pecorino and add to the bowl. Drizzle with half the vinaigrette, season lightly with salt and pepper, and toss gently. Serve with the remaining vinaigrette on the side.

Romaine & Red Onion Salad SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

2 heads romaine, tough outer green leaves removed, remaining leaves cut or torn into bite-sized pieces 1 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 2 ounces cacio di Roma, cut into 6 thin slices, plus a chunk (optional) for grating 1 small red onion, sliced into paper-thin rings Soak the romaine in a bowl of cool water for 10 minutes to crisp it. Drain and spin dry. Transfer to a large bowl.

Whisk the vinegar and oil together in a small bowl. Drizzle the romaine with half the vinaigrette, tossing to coat, and season with salt and pepper.

Divide the romaine among six salad bowls and add a slice of cheese to each. Grate additional cheese over the romaine if desired and garnish with the red onion. Serve the remaining vinaigrette on the side.

Three-Bean Salad SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

Kosher salt 1 pound green beans One 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained One 15-ounce can white kidney beans (cannellini), rinsed and drained 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint cup Red Wine Vinaigrette (Vegetable Antipasti) Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 2 tablespoons kosher salt. Add the beans and blanch until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool under cold running water; drain well.