The High-Protein Cookbook Part 1

The High-Protein Cookbook.

by Linda West Eckhardt.

Introduction.

So you've been on a high-protein diet. Or know people who rave about the good results they've gotten by limiting their carbohydrates. But you're not sure if you can live on nothing but steaks and nibbles of lettuce.

Well, we had the same concerns. We're a mother-daughter cookbook writing team who-for a variety of reasons-had gained more weight than we were comfortable with.

Our love of great food and our various age issues made weight gain seem inevitable. Being food scholars, we read everything we could about the new wave of dieting plans. We also read all the criticism that comes from the legitimate food press.

The good news is that by following a high-protein diet, we each lost more than twenty-five pounds. The bad news is that we got really bored with the scant recipes offered in the sources we consulted. Because food boredom is all too often the undoing of what begins as a successful diet regimen, we began to put our professional expertise to work on this very personal problem. We developed a group of recipes that made this diet acceptable to us. We are living proof that you can eat well-really well-lose weight, improve your health, and feel great.

The High-Protein Cookbook is not a diet book. No diet works for everyone, and you should certainly consult with your physician before making any significant change in the way you eat. is not a diet book. No diet works for everyone, and you should certainly consult with your physician before making any significant change in the way you eat. The High-Protein Cookbook The High-Protein Cookbook was conceived as a companion to today's popular high-protein diet books. Whether you follow Eades, the Zone, Sugar Busters, or others in this genre, you'll find recipes in this cookbook that offer you fast and fresh ideas to keep you on your diet and help you in your quest to lose weight and get healthy. At the same time, you'll be preparing varied, interesting meals that everyone in the household will enjoy, so there's no need to serve one meal for yourself and another for family members who don't feel the need to limit their carbohydrates. was conceived as a companion to today's popular high-protein diet books. Whether you follow Eades, the Zone, Sugar Busters, or others in this genre, you'll find recipes in this cookbook that offer you fast and fresh ideas to keep you on your diet and help you in your quest to lose weight and get healthy. At the same time, you'll be preparing varied, interesting meals that everyone in the household will enjoy, so there's no need to serve one meal for yourself and another for family members who don't feel the need to limit their carbohydrates.

These recipes adhere to strict nutritional guidelines-that is, no more than 15 grams of carbohydrate per meal, and a daily caloric intake that hovers around 1,500. You'll also find recipes that encourage you to eat those healthy vegetables and fruits, at least five a day. And mostly, you'll find reasonable reasonable amounts of high-quality protein-3 to 4 ounces of lean, cooked red meats, and up to 6 ounces of fish per meal. Complete nutritional a.n.a.lyses for each recipe was calculated using ESHA Research Inc., National Restaurant a.s.sociation's computer program, allow you to budget carbohydrates and calories. amounts of high-quality protein-3 to 4 ounces of lean, cooked red meats, and up to 6 ounces of fish per meal. Complete nutritional a.n.a.lyses for each recipe was calculated using ESHA Research Inc., National Restaurant a.s.sociation's computer program, allow you to budget carbohydrates and calories.

But the most important distinction we make is that our recipes taste good. With us, taste is is number one. If our dinners don't have exciting flavor profiles, we know we'll never stick with any change in eating patterns. This book is a short course in high-protein cooking. The recipes use a short list of fast and fresh ingredients with clear instructions. The recipes are simple enough for the beginner cook and interesting enough for experts. Best of all, you don't have to rely on fake foods or phony processed diet dinners to get your weight under control. You can use real food, real cooking techniques, and you can have dinner on the table in a hurry-in 30 minutes or less. number one. If our dinners don't have exciting flavor profiles, we know we'll never stick with any change in eating patterns. This book is a short course in high-protein cooking. The recipes use a short list of fast and fresh ingredients with clear instructions. The recipes are simple enough for the beginner cook and interesting enough for experts. Best of all, you don't have to rely on fake foods or phony processed diet dinners to get your weight under control. You can use real food, real cooking techniques, and you can have dinner on the table in a hurry-in 30 minutes or less.

WHY HIGH PROTEIN?.

After fifteen years of carbo loading, a period in which Americans have watched one another getting fatter and fatter, we've decided to face facts: Empty calories will eventually equal extra pounds. Like numerous others, we found that by eliminating many of the carbohydrate-rich foods that formed the backbone of our diets and boosting our intake of lean protein, we not only lost weight, we felt better, had more energy, and saw some pretty significant changes in our blood cholesterol levels. Across the country people are embracing a diet based less on overly refined carbohydrates and more on lean protein, fruits, and vegetables, and they are seeing positive results. It has benefited so many, in fact, that we believe a fundamental s.h.i.+ft away from excess carbohydrates will prevail, just as our understanding of the role of saturated fats has caused a sea change in the way America eats.

We want to make one thing clear. It doesn't take a doctor to tell you that a diet consisting entirely of enormous grilled steaks or chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with green salads on the side will not sustain good health. In fact, it can lead to serious health risks. That's why we've pursued a moderate path. Our recipes preclude the dangers of a radical protein diet, which potentially puts the body into a state of ketosis, by incorporating generous amounts of healthy vegetables and fruits. You'll see that all of our recipes include a protein and and vegetable or, at the very least, a vegetable suggestion. We truly believe the best shot at good nutrition is to eat a wide and varied diet of unprocessed foods, including sufficient protein for health and endurance, and five vegetables and fruits every day to provide the best quality of vegetable or, at the very least, a vegetable suggestion. We truly believe the best shot at good nutrition is to eat a wide and varied diet of unprocessed foods, including sufficient protein for health and endurance, and five vegetables and fruits every day to provide the best quality of complex complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and sufficient fiber for optimum health. carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and sufficient fiber for optimum health.

A Word About Portion Size In order to lose weight, we do have to count calories. They are nothing more than the energy units necessary to fuel our own personal furnaces. When we feed our machines excess energy, our bodies use what they need and store the rest for a rainy day in the form of fat.

The recipes in this book do not offer unhealthy, outsized portions. Three to 4 ounces of meat or up to 6 ounces of fish provide more than enough protein and are sufficient to keep you satisfied until your next meal. In restaurants today, it is not uncommon for each diner to be presented with 8, 10, or even 12 ounces of protein, and a meal that represents about 2,500 calories overall. This is absurd. Unless you are able to radically increase your daily exercise output, you will not lose weight if your caloric intake exceeds about 1,500 per day. per day. All of our recipes indicate clearly what a portion size should look like. Should you find yourself staring at a typically gargantuan restaurant serving, here's an easy no-scale way to judge how much you should eat: Look at the palm of your hand. A 3- to 4-ounce portion of meat or fish is about that size. If there's more than that much protein on your plate, cut some off and hand it to your dining companion, or put it in a "doggie bag" for a free lunch the next day. If you follow a high-protein diet, you can do this without feeling hungry because the body takes longer to digest protein. Protein "sticks to your ribs." All of our recipes indicate clearly what a portion size should look like. Should you find yourself staring at a typically gargantuan restaurant serving, here's an easy no-scale way to judge how much you should eat: Look at the palm of your hand. A 3- to 4-ounce portion of meat or fish is about that size. If there's more than that much protein on your plate, cut some off and hand it to your dining companion, or put it in a "doggie bag" for a free lunch the next day. If you follow a high-protein diet, you can do this without feeling hungry because the body takes longer to digest protein. Protein "sticks to your ribs."

Add one cup of leafy green vegetables, cup cooked vegetables, plus medium-size pieces of fruit (oranges, apples, and pears), or 1 cup of berries. Fruits and vegetables give you needed fiber, which protects the bowel. It's like your mama said: Eat your vegetables.

The body is a wonderfully adaptable machine. Just as it has adjusted to your former bad eating habits, given half a chance, the body will adapt and quit crying out for cookies and cakes. Then you are more than halfway to success. Eat sufficient protein, balance it off with a generous serving of the right vegetables and fruits, and you will succeed.

When There's No Time to Cook Don't even have time to look at a recipe? You belong to a huge club; some would say an enormous society. In fact, if you think we use recipes every night to make terrific meals, you have a fantasy about the life of a food writer. Many a night, we do nothing but grill or saute a chop, rip open a bag of salad, and eat. Part of this new way of life is making food less central to your existence.

We can teach you how to improve your skills with a saute pan and grill so that you'll soon be whipping up sweet little suppers without cracking a book. That's what we're here for.

Yes, you may have to break the m.u.f.fin-breakfast cereal-sugary doughnut habit. Those convenience foods have come to dominate America's breakfast and the cessation of that habit may be the most important change you make. Stop the hypoglycemic yo-yo that starts with a big jolt of sugar for breakfast, and you've made a heroic beginning on a high-protein plan.

Eating the Rest of the Day The recipes in The High-Protein Cookbook The High-Protein Cookbook are intended primarily as dinner entrees, although many could be made in larger quant.i.ties and served for lunch the next day. We recommend that you decide on a basic breakfast and lunch strategy and simply stick with it, day in, day out, saving your energy, creativity, and best recipes for the evening meal. Before you protest that this will be too limiting, think about what you eat for breakfast now-it's probably just as limited a menu. Do are intended primarily as dinner entrees, although many could be made in larger quant.i.ties and served for lunch the next day. We recommend that you decide on a basic breakfast and lunch strategy and simply stick with it, day in, day out, saving your energy, creativity, and best recipes for the evening meal. Before you protest that this will be too limiting, think about what you eat for breakfast now-it's probably just as limited a menu. Do not not skip breakfast; simply subst.i.tute a healthy, high-protein option, such as cottage cheese and berries, or eggs with a piece of thin toast, or even a cheese omelet. Make that your "regular" and be done with it. Soon it will feel as natural as that bagel "with a smear" or that bowl of oatmeal does now. Make sure you get sufficient protein at every meal. Eat five vegetables and fruits every day and drink lots and lots of water-at skip breakfast; simply subst.i.tute a healthy, high-protein option, such as cottage cheese and berries, or eggs with a piece of thin toast, or even a cheese omelet. Make that your "regular" and be done with it. Soon it will feel as natural as that bagel "with a smear" or that bowl of oatmeal does now. Make sure you get sufficient protein at every meal. Eat five vegetables and fruits every day and drink lots and lots of water-at least least 64 ounces per day. Load your refrigerator and purse with acceptable emergency provisions, such as string cheese, hard-cooked eggs, and hard salami. If you're so hungry you can't wait for dinner, spread a tablespoon of chunky natural peanut b.u.t.ter on a couple of celery ribs and munch away. It's about 6 grams of carbohydrates and quite satisfying. And don't forget, a gla.s.s of red wine has been shown to promote good cardiac health. So eat well, drink wisely, and feel good about realigning your eating habits into a more healthful, life-affirming pattern. 64 ounces per day. Load your refrigerator and purse with acceptable emergency provisions, such as string cheese, hard-cooked eggs, and hard salami. If you're so hungry you can't wait for dinner, spread a tablespoon of chunky natural peanut b.u.t.ter on a couple of celery ribs and munch away. It's about 6 grams of carbohydrates and quite satisfying. And don't forget, a gla.s.s of red wine has been shown to promote good cardiac health. So eat well, drink wisely, and feel good about realigning your eating habits into a more healthful, life-affirming pattern.

THE QUESTION OF VITAMINS.

Supplements have gained acceptance among professional nutritionists, medical doctors, and dieticians. The old argument that you should get all the vitamins you need from your diet seems to have melted away. We believe a sound supplementation program, in addition to your new dietary regimen, can only increase your health benefits and make you stronger and more vigorous. For openers, we recommend a good all-purpose multivitamin. Don't s.n.a.t.c.h up the cheapest bottle you see on sale. Read the label. Pick a multivitamin that includes both vitamins and minerals and reasonable amounts of the additives that promote health.

The National Academy of Science Food and Nutrition Board calls thirteen vitamins and ten minerals "essential." This government body sets recommended dietary allowances (RDAs) for men and women of various ages. In theory, if you are eating the recommended number of servings from the five food groups, including at least five servings of fruits and vegetables, you should be getting all the vitamins and minerals you need.

But you know the difference between theory and practice. A 1994 USDA survey found most adult women failed to meet the RDAs for iron, zinc, vitamin B6, calcium, magnesium, and vitamin E, while men were short on zinc and magnesium. While this diet goes far to ameliorate these deficiencies, with its emphasis on red meat, eggs, fish, and a variety of green leafy vegetables, we recommend a daily multivitamin/mineral supplement. Think of it as an insurance policy.

You must understand that RDAs were established a number of years ago, and were intended only to prevent nutrient shortages that lead to ailments such as scurvy or rickets. Antioxidants-which scientists now believe act as scavengers for oxygen-free radicals responsible for harmful cellular changes leading to cancer, heart disease, and other disorders-are best supplemented.

Vitamin E can boost the immune system and promote heart health, among many other things. Tufts University's vitamin E researcher, Jeffrey Blumberg, Ph.D., a professor of nutrition, recommends a daily intake of 100 to 400 IUs (international units) of supplemental vitamin E for healthy people, and 400 to 800 IUs for those who have heart disease or diabetes. We faithfully take our 400-IU dose of Vitamin E. can boost the immune system and promote heart health, among many other things. Tufts University's vitamin E researcher, Jeffrey Blumberg, Ph.D., a professor of nutrition, recommends a daily intake of 100 to 400 IUs (international units) of supplemental vitamin E for healthy people, and 400 to 800 IUs for those who have heart disease or diabetes. We faithfully take our 400-IU dose of Vitamin E.

Vitamin C has a recommended RDA of 60 milligrams. But scientists believe between 250 and 500 milligrams are beneficial for general health. Up to 1,000 milligrams may be taken before stomach upsets or other counterproductive effects are felt. We like a couple of 500-milligram chewables a day. has a recommended RDA of 60 milligrams. But scientists believe between 250 and 500 milligrams are beneficial for general health. Up to 1,000 milligrams may be taken before stomach upsets or other counterproductive effects are felt. We like a couple of 500-milligram chewables a day.

Beta-carotene is a plant-based antioxidant your body can transform into vitamin A as needed. You can take up to 5,000 IUs with no unpleasant side effects. is a plant-based antioxidant your body can transform into vitamin A as needed. You can take up to 5,000 IUs with no unpleasant side effects.

Folic acid and vitamins B12 and B6 are linked to a lower incidence of heart disease and heart attacks. You need at least 400 micrograms. You'll get a lot from meat and eggs, but supplementation is recommended, particularly if you are of child-bearing age. are linked to a lower incidence of heart disease and heart attacks. You need at least 400 micrograms. You'll get a lot from meat and eggs, but supplementation is recommended, particularly if you are of child-bearing age.

Calcium builds strong bones and teeth and reduces our risk for osteoporosis. The high-protein diet contains lots of calcium if you eat eggs and cheese, but the Nutrition Board has raised the RDA for adults up to the age of fifty to 1,000 milligrams, and to 1,200 milligrams for those over fifty. The average woman gets only about 600 milligrams of calcium in her normal diet, so a supplement of 1,000 milligrams is advised. builds strong bones and teeth and reduces our risk for osteoporosis. The high-protein diet contains lots of calcium if you eat eggs and cheese, but the Nutrition Board has raised the RDA for adults up to the age of fifty to 1,000 milligrams, and to 1,200 milligrams for those over fifty. The average woman gets only about 600 milligrams of calcium in her normal diet, so a supplement of 1,000 milligrams is advised.

Vitamin D, the suns.h.i.+ne vitamin, available in milk, b.u.t.ter, and egg yolks, potentiates the use of calcium. The recommended RDA is 200 IUs, but 400 IUs are recommended as supplementation for adults between the ages of fifty and seventy because after fifty, the body may not absorb dietary sources as well. the suns.h.i.+ne vitamin, available in milk, b.u.t.ter, and egg yolks, potentiates the use of calcium. The recommended RDA is 200 IUs, but 400 IUs are recommended as supplementation for adults between the ages of fifty and seventy because after fifty, the body may not absorb dietary sources as well.

In addition to the vitamins and minerals listed above, trace minerals, including magnesium, iron, and selenium, are needed by the body but are usually found in adequate supply in a good all-purpose multivitamin.

To Learn More If you'd like to calculate your own recipes, do what we did. Order the National Restaurant a.s.sociation Nutrition Recipe a.n.a.lysis, Version 1.0, from ESHA Research. This well-respected computer program will tell you what you need to know. Call ESHA (503-585-5543) or e-mail them ([email protected]).

Two 5-feet-4-inch women, each of whom weigh 140 pounds, may look quite different. One seems fat and the other just right. Why? Body ma.s.s index. How much fat do you carry? How much in muscle and bone? Learn your own BMI (body ma.s.s index), and you'll get a scientific recommendation of the correct weight for your height and body frame size. The simplest way to determine this is to go online and let one of the computer a.n.a.lysts do the work for you. Try www.thriveonline.com/shape/experts/karen/karen. However, if you are good at math, you can figure this out for yourself. Here's how to calculate your own BMI: Multiply your weight in pounds by 704.5, and then divide by the square of your height in inches. For example, if you weigh 130 pounds and are 5 feet 4 inches (64 inches) tall, then your BMI is (130 X 704.5) h h (64 X 64) = 22.4. (64 X 64) = 22.4.

So what, you say? If your BMI is 27 or below, your health is not at risk from fat, but if it's above that number, you have jumped into the high-risk category for coronary heart disease, stroke, and certain cancers.

Three sisters, who have dieted successfully, started a Web site that acts as a clearinghouse for lots of great information: nutrition a.n.a.lysis, BMI and basal metabolism calculations, and lots more. Log onto 3fatchicks.com. You'll find lots of good answers by going through this gateway.

You can also call the American Dietetic a.s.sociation (800-366-1655) and ask for their free brochures. To order a free copy of the USDA brochure "Nutrition and Your Health: Dietary Guidelines for Americans," call the Centrum Center for Nutritional Science (800-597-2267).

EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES.

High-protein cooking does not require any unusual appliances or expensive equipment. In fact, you are likely to have all that you need already. Here are the items we find indispensable.

Saute pan: A good-quality nonstick 10- to 12-inch skillet will get you through most of the meals in this book. A good-quality nonstick 10- to 12-inch skillet will get you through most of the meals in this book.

Steamer: Linda constantly uses her steamer for vegetable accompaniments. Linda constantly uses her steamer for vegetable accompaniments.

Grilling machine: A secret weapon in the armament of high-protein cooks. We each keep one on the counter. In almost any recipe, foods that are to be sauteed can also be grilled, and this is one quick and easy way to do it. Others we know swear by their A secret weapon in the armament of high-protein cooks. We each keep one on the counter. In almost any recipe, foods that are to be sauteed can also be grilled, and this is one quick and easy way to do it. Others we know swear by their stove-top water-pan grill, stove-top water-pan grill, which uses your stove's burners as its heat source. The water below the grill surface reduces the smoky fumes released into your kitchen. which uses your stove's burners as its heat source. The water below the grill surface reduces the smoky fumes released into your kitchen.

Citrus zester: Want to zip up flavor? Add zest from almost any citrus fruit-lemon, lime, or orange-to whatever you're cooking, and you'll get a flavor hit that's memorable. To make it even easier, invest in a Want to zip up flavor? Add zest from almost any citrus fruit-lemon, lime, or orange-to whatever you're cooking, and you'll get a flavor hit that's memorable. To make it even easier, invest in a Microplane, Microplane, the newest and best piece of equipment to come along for zipping up flavor. You can also use it to grate ginger or garlic, or to add a dusting of nutmeg. Look for it at the cookware store. For about twelve bucks, you'll get a new magic wand. the newest and best piece of equipment to come along for zipping up flavor. You can also use it to grate ginger or garlic, or to add a dusting of nutmeg. Look for it at the cookware store. For about twelve bucks, you'll get a new magic wand.

Kitchen scale (or diet scale): Keeps you honest with food portions. You'll note that when possible, we give measurements in ounces for carbohydrate-rich foods that might sabotage your efforts. Most scales come with their own food tray and measure in both grams and ounces. A scale takes the guesswork out of measurement. Keeps you honest with food portions. You'll note that when possible, we give measurements in ounces for carbohydrate-rich foods that might sabotage your efforts. Most scales come with their own food tray and measure in both grams and ounces. A scale takes the guesswork out of measurement.

Sports bottle: You must drink at least 64 ounces of water a day to help flush all the fat and toxins away. Fill your bottle each morning and carry it with you throughout the day. It's especially recommended if you sit at a desk all day. Choose your water. We like seltzer. You may like spring water. Just pick a clean, pure water to drink. You must drink at least 64 ounces of water a day to help flush all the fat and toxins away. Fill your bottle each morning and carry it with you throughout the day. It's especially recommended if you sit at a desk all day. Choose your water. We like seltzer. You may like spring water. Just pick a clean, pure water to drink.

FISH: YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND.

Fish belongs on everyone's menu, not just those on low-carbohydrate diet. It is naturally low in fat, flavorful, and full of essential vitamins (including many vitamin Bs), minerals (especially iodine and phosphorus), and in particular, omega-3 fatty acids, which lower triglycerides, act as anticoagulants, and lower insulin levels. In plain English, fish is good for you. We also love fish for the same reason restaurateurs do: it cooks fast. The fact is, if you are on a high-protein regimen, fish gives great bang for the buck. It may cost more than chicken or pork pound for pound, but because it is not as dense as red meat or fowl, a 6-ounce fillet is larger than a 6-ounce piece of steak. You on everyone's menu, not just those on low-carbohydrate diet. It is naturally low in fat, flavorful, and full of essential vitamins (including many vitamin Bs), minerals (especially iodine and phosphorus), and in particular, omega-3 fatty acids, which lower triglycerides, act as anticoagulants, and lower insulin levels. In plain English, fish is good for you. We also love fish for the same reason restaurateurs do: it cooks fast. The fact is, if you are on a high-protein regimen, fish gives great bang for the buck. It may cost more than chicken or pork pound for pound, but because it is not as dense as red meat or fowl, a 6-ounce fillet is larger than a 6-ounce piece of steak. You feel feel like you are eating more. It may only be a psychological advantage, but hey, we will take any advantage we can get. like you are eating more. It may only be a psychological advantage, but hey, we will take any advantage we can get.

Which leads us to the main point about fish. It is a great weapon with which to fight our biggest dieting battle, food boredom. In the first place, more than sixty varieties of fish enter the marketplace in this country on any given day. When you multiply the number of varieties of fish times the number of ways you can cook and season it, you could probably eat fish every day for the rest of your life and never get bored.

With all of its great qualities, you may be wondering why is it that we most often order fish in a restaurant and not at the fish market. We figure it is fear of getting bad fish, plus not enough information on how to prepare this delicate protein source.

When cooking fish, know that it's more important to purchase the freshest variety you can get, rather than the exact species called for in the recipe. Only purchase fish from vendors who keep their wares on ice, and who make at least twice-weekly trips to their wholesale source. (In our experience, Tuesdays and Fridays are when markets get their supplies.) Lastly, always cook fish the day you get it-it's that fragile.

If you're buying a whole fish, ask the fishmonger to clean it for you. Choose a fish with bright, clear eyes. Sunken, cloudy eyes means it's past its prime. Never hesitate to ask for a sniff. Any odor of ammonia means the fish is gone. If you're buying fillets, ask the fishmonger when he got them in; if they've been frozen (not necessarily a bad thing); and ask for a sniff. If the layers of meat are gaping, the fish is over the hill. The meat should look firm, s.h.i.+ny, and clear. It should also smell briny and fresh-not fishy or of ammonia. Ask the fishmonger to double wrap the fish, putting ice in the outside plastic bag. Keep it on ice, double bagged in the refrigerator, until you're ready to cook later that day.

Contrary to what some people think, the best time of year to eat sh.e.l.lfish is in the winter. Any fisherman will tell you that as the oceans get colder, the fish tastes better. Most Gulf Coast natives (us included) will only eat sh.e.l.lfish in the months with an "r" in it. And we are suspicious of September. Nearly all shrimp is frozen the minute it is caught. So if you can buy it frozen in 5-pound blocks, you have more control over when it is defrosted. This is how restaurateurs and caterers buy it. Just remember to give the shrimp enough time to thaw-overnight in the refrigerator or in cold water. Partial defrosting to break off what you need is okay, too, and preferable to buying thawed shrimp.

The other problem most home cooks have with fish is that they tend to overcook it. Fish and sh.e.l.lfish cook very quickly. When overcooked, they become dry and rubbery. They are not chicken. They do not need to be well-done. As you begin to buy and cook fish and sh.e.l.lfish more often, you will increase your comfort level. Make a regular date to stop by the fish counter, preferably the day the major s.h.i.+pment comes in (not Sunday night). Soon, cooking fish will be become very easy.

Lastly, remember a recipe is only a guide. If the recipe calls for cod and the store only has mahimahi, then feel free to subst.i.tute. Perhaps it is seafood's versatility that makes it the most valuable. Go forth and eat fish.

Sea Ba.s.s with Mango Chutney, Ginger, and Black Sesame Seeds.

The b.u.t.tery flavor of sea ba.s.s is a delicious complement to the chutney, ginger, and sesame. Serve over a crunchy bed of shredded iceberg lettuce.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 5 minutes Baking time: 15 minutes Cooking spray Two 6-ounce striped ba.s.s fillets 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger (see note) 1 tablespoon soy souce 1 tablespoon sesame oil Salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste cup mango chutney 3 cups shredded iceberg lettuce Ginger and Hot Red Pepper Vinaigrette Preheat the oven to 425F. Spray an 8 X 8 X 8-inch Pyrex baking dish with cooking spray. Place the fillets in the baking dish. Sprinkle each fillet with ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Lightly salt and pepper. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and spoon 2 tablespoons of chutney onto each fillet. Return to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 5 more minutes.

Toss the shredded lettuce with the dressing. Divide between two plates and top each one with a fillet.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 316 calories, FAT 10 g, PROTEIN 40 g, CARB 15 g, FIBER 6 g, CHOL 90 mg, IRON 1 mg, SODIUM 1,258 mg, CALC 32 mg Cooking LessonFresh ginger can easily be minced in a food processor. Don't bother peeling, Asians never do! Place 1-inch chunks in the food processor and process until coa.r.s.ely chopped; do not overchop. To store, place in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and pour in dry sherry until the ginger is just covered. Ginger will keep for at least 6 months in your refrigerator this way, and it's ready when you are!

Roasted Striped Ba.s.s on a Bed of Summer Vegetables Caramelized vegetables make a flavorful bed for one of the Northeast's favorite fish. Can't find striped ba.s.s? Choose a firm-fleshed white fish, such as cod, haddock, or halibut.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 5 minutes Baking time: 30-35 minutes 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 yellow crookneck squash, sliced into thin coins 1 small zucchini, sliced into thin coins fennel bulb, thinly sliced 1 small red onion, peeled and quartered 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional for sprinkling Two 6-ounce striped ba.s.s fillets, or other firm-fleshed white fish, such as haddock, halibut, or cod Freshly milled black pepper cup fresh basil leaves, cut in ribbons Preheat the oven to 450F. Film a large ovenproof skillet with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil, then add the yellow squash, zucchini, fennel, and onion. Toss with a tablespoon of the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, thyme, and salt. Roast for 20 minutes.

While the vegetables are cooking, brush the fish fillets with the remaining teaspoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Stir the vegetables. Lay the fish on top and cook until the fish flakes easily, 5 to 10 minutes more. To serve, make a bed of vegetables on two warm plates and top with a fish fillet. Mound half the basil ribbons on each fillet.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 400 calories, FAT 19 g, PROTEIN 42 g, CARB 14 g, FIBER 5 g, CHOL 175 mg, IRON 3 mg, SODIUM 476 mg, CALC 117 mg Health BenefitSummer squashes, such as zucchini, crooknecks, and pattypans, are considered "free" vegetables. Eat all you want for optimum fiber and vitamins, as well as great taste.

Braised Monkfish with Fennel and Pernod This recipe torques up the anise flavor with fennel, fennel seed, and Pernod. The result is surprisingly subtle, and very French.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes cup olive oil cup chopped onion pound sliced fennel bulb 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 garlic clove, minced 1 cup dry white wine One 8-ounce bottle clam juice One 8-ounce can tomatoes with their juices, chopped 1 tablespoon Pernod 12 ounces monkfish fillets, skinned 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh curly-leaf parsley for garnish In a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, fennel, fennel seeds, and garlic and saute until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the white wine and clam juice and deglaze the pan, sc.r.a.ping up brown bits from the bottom. Boil until the wine and juice are reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices and Pernod and add the monkfish fillets. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve fish, vegetables, and broth in soup plates sprinkled with freshly chopped parsley.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 242 calories, FAT 3 g, PROTEIN 27 g, CARB 14 g, FIBER 4 g, CHOL 43 mg, IRON 2 mg, SODIUM 207 mg, CALC 93 mg Cooking LessonMONKFISH: Known in France and in French restaurants as lotte lotte, this is a delicious, firm-fleshed fish that tastes a bit like sh.e.l.lfish. It is sometimes called "poor man's lobster," but in our opinion, you are rich with this delicacy on your table!PERNOD (PER NOH): A yellowish, milky liqueur with a licorice flavor. In the old days, people used absinthe, from the wormwood family, but since it's actually a poison, it fell into disfavor. Often Pernod is the secret ingredient in bouillabaisse, oysters Rockefeller, and other New Orleans dishes.

Steamed Cod in Borscht with Warm Chive-Horseradish Cream There are few better ways to infuse fish fillets with flavor than by steaming them atop aromatic vegetables. The aroma that wafts up from a steaming bowl of fish swimming in a sea of cabbage and beets will more than make up for the fact that this looks like an estuary after the powerboats have chewed through the water lilies. Never mind. Go ahead. Taste it.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 7 minutes Cooking time: 13 minutes 1 teaspoon peanut oil cup thinly sliced red onion 1 garlic clove, sliced teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley cup shredded savoy cabbage cup drained and julienned canned beets 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth Two 6-ounce cod steaks or fillets (or other firm-fleshed white fish, such as Chilean sea ba.s.s, haddock, halibut) teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste teaspoon freshly milled black pepper, or to taste 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish 2 tablespoons sour cream Heat a heavy pot, then film the bottom with oil. Add the onion and garlic and saute over medium-high heat until the onion becomes translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme, parsley, cabbage, beets, and chicken broth and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Uncover the pot and arrange the cod on top of the vegetables; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and steam the fish until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, stir together the chives, horseradish, and sour cream in a small bowl.

To serve, ladle some of the vegetables and broth into a warm wide-rimmed soup bowl and top with a steamed fish steak. Add a dollop of chive-horseradish cream.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 255 calories, FAT 9 g, PROTEIN 34 g, CARB 10 g, FIBER 2 g, CHOL 69 mg, IRON 1 mg, SODIUM 1,198 mg, CALC 62 mg Cooking Les...o...b.. steaming fish on top of the simmering vegetables and broth, you'll get the benefit of the aromatic steam and enhance the broth as well, losing not one precious drop of flavor.Health BenefitThe monounsaturated fatty acids in mayonnaise and olive oil help prevent heart disease. This dinner makes the most of their health-promoting properties. Olive oil, which is one of the top-choice fats, starts the process by caramelizing the vegetables to concentrate their naturally occurring sugars. Then the oil in the cold-water fish, cod, tops it off, giving you a meal that tastes great and is loaded with natural antioxidants: cabbage, onions, and beets. Toss in the fiber you get from the vegetables and you have here an almost perfect dinner.

Roasted Cod with Clementine Sauce on a Bed of Braised Brussels Sprouts Citrus is one of winter's gifts. For a delicate sauce that flatters a cod, use the juice of Spain's clementine. (Subst.i.tute a tangerine or Florida orange in a pinch.) The main satisfaction to this dish is that you get every flavor note at once: sweet, sour, bitter, and salty. First the sweetness of the fruit, then the pucker from the undercurrent of acid, a warming trend of cayenne, and the bracing bitter flavor found in the Brussels sprouts-all of this in addition to the sweet-salty codfish.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cups finely sliced Brussels sprouts (about 1 pint) Grated zest and juice of 1 clementine 12 ounces cod fillets or other firm, mild, cold-water white fish Pinch of cayenne teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro Preheat the oven to 500F. Heat a saucepan over medium-high heat and film the bottom with some of the oil. Saute Brussels sprouts about 3 minutes. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the clementine juice, and pour the rest into a small saucepan. Boil over medium-high heat until reduced by half (about 5 minutes). Add the reserved juice to the Brussels sprouts, cover, and steam about 3 minutes. Keep warm.

Place a large ovenproof skillet or gratin dish on the stovetop and preheat over high heat. Film it with the remaining olive oil, then add the fish. Cook 1 minute, then carefully turn the fish. Transfer to the oven and cook until the fish flakes, no more than 5 to 8 minutes.

Season the reduced citrus juice with zest, cayenne, and salt. Off heat, swirl in the b.u.t.ter, whisking until the sauce is thick.

To serve, divide Brussels sprouts between two warmed dinner plates, then top each with a fish fillet. Spoon the sauce over and garnish with the cilantro.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 278 calories, FAT 9 g, PROTEIN 34 g, CARB 15 g, FIBER 4 g, CHOL 78 mg, IRON 2 mg, SODIUM 776 mg, CALC 64 mg Cooking LessonZip up meals using citrus zest, a nearly calorie-free flavor enhancer. Buy one of those new Microplane rasps, and it's all too easy. One pa.s.s of the fruit skin over the rasp and you have a neat, flavorful bite, plus the colorful oil of citrus, which lifts up many a plain food. Regardless of the tool you use to zest, take care not to bear down into the pithy white underflesh, which is bitter. All you want is color and flavor.Menu SuggestionOnce in awhile, nothing but chocolate will do. For a ravis.h.i.+ng 5-gram carb finish to this meal, take your choice: Melt a Hershey's Nugget on your tongue. Want crunch? Chew on eight Starbucks chocolate-covered espres...o...b..ans. Need a kiss? Take two Hershey's kisses with almonds. With this menu, you can afford it.

Grilled Halibut with Anchovy-Lemon b.u.t.ter People may think they don't like anchovies, but when used as a flavor enhancer, as in this savory b.u.t.ter, it's a simple addition that adds a subtle taste. Always use the canned variety rather than the salted, or use the paste. If your market doesn't have halibut you can freely interchange with other cold-water ocean fishes-salmon, swordfish.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 12 minutes teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil Two 6-ounce halibut steaks teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cracked pepper 2 teaspoons softened unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon anchovy paste or 1 tablespoon chopped canned anchovy Zest of 1 lemon plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Preheat a large skillet, then film it with oil. Meanwhile, pat the fish steaks dry, then salt and pepper them. Brush each side with a little oil then place in the skillet and cook about 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, stir together the b.u.t.ter, anchovy paste, zest, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Transfer the steaks to warmed dinner plates and top with a dollop of anchovy b.u.t.ter.

Nutritional a.n.a.lysis: 236 calories, FAT 9 g, PROTEIN 36 g, CARB. 2 g, FIBER .5 g, CHOL 65 mg, IRON 2 mg, SODIUM 745 mg, CALC 90 mg Health BenefitChoose cold-water ocean fish several times a week. You'll increase your intake of EPA, an omega-3 fatty acid found in fish oils that helps prevent heart disease. Which are the cold-water ocean fishes? Cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, halibut, and other less well-known fishes. If you can't include fish often enough, take cod liver oil pills by mouth, but be aware that it takes three or four a day to equal one good fish dinner.

The Halibut Caper Pan-frying fish is about the quickest, easiest way we know to get food on the table. Finish the crisp, golden fillet with a lemon-caper sauce, and you can call it a party. Dredge fillets in salt, pepper, and flour. Shake off any excess. Pan-fry in oil you've splashed into the skillet, then finish with a jot of chicken broth, a shot of lemon juice, a spoonful of capers and a pat of b.u.t.ter. Voila. A French cla.s.sic.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly milled black pepper 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour cup low-sodium chicken broth Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon drained capers 1 tablespoon peanut oil Two 6-ounce boneless, skinless halibut fillets 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter Stir together the salt, pepper, and flour on a piece of wax paper. Mix the broth, lemon, and capers in a small cup. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat, then film the bottom with oil. Dredge the fish in the seasoned flour, then cook until it is light brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip it over, adding oil if necessary to keep it from sticking, and cook the second side until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to warmed dinner plates. Crank up the heat under the skillet and pour in the lemon-caper mixture. Sc.r.a.pe up the brown bits in the skillet and boil it down until somewhat reduced. Remove from the heat, and swirl in the b.u.t.ter. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve.