Girl Hunter Part 15

3. Preheat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, melt the b.u.t.ter and whisk in the flour until it bubbles, 1 minute. Add the milk and whisk until a paste forms, then add the paste to the pot containing the broth and bring to a boil. Stir until the broth has consistency of gravy, about 10 minutes, then remove from the heat.

4. Add the meat and additional vegetables to the broth, along with the thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Add the filling to the prebaked crust. Remove the second dough disk from the freezer, let rest for 10 minutes, then roll it out on a floured surface, until it is about an inch wider than the pie dish. Drape it over the filling. Trim the edges and tuck them under the top crust.

6. With a pastry brush, brush some beaten egg white along the circ.u.mference, between the two crusts, and press down gently with your thumb or a fork.

7. Brush the top of the pie with egg white. With a paring knife, cut small vent holes in the center and on the outer edges.

8. Bake at 350F for 35 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Serve hot.

Also try: brant, coot, duck, gallinule, goose, grouse, prairie chicken, partridge, pheasant, pigeon, ptarmigan, quail, rail, snipe, turkey, squirrel, rabbit, or a combination of those leftover sc.r.a.ps Note: To subst.i.tute other game birds, 3 chukar = 2 pheasants, 3 grouse, 6 quail, or 12 doves.

Quail en Papillote

Serves 4 Cooking en papillote is a very traditional French technique that is designed to trap the flavor and the aroma until it reaches the diner. The protein, traditionally fish, is baked in a parchment envelope sealed with egg white, which puffs dramatically in the oven. French gastronome Brillat-Savarin described the quail as "everything that is most delightful and tempting. One of these plump little birds is pleasing equally for its taste, shape, and its color. It is unfortunate to serve it any other way but roasted or en papillote, because its aroma is extremely fleeting, and whenever the bird comes in contact with a liquid, this perfume dissolves, evaporates, and is lost." This method is especially useful when the bird skin couldn't be saved. The juices that develop in the bag serve as the sauce, but you can also serve a beurre blanc (page 228) or other sauce on the side.

2 tablespoons grape seed oil plus additional oil or b.u.t.ter as needed

1/2 cup diced shallots

4 garlic cloves, diced

1 cup sliced white b.u.t.ton mushrooms

1/2 cup thinly sliced leeks

1 cup seeded and diced tomatoes

Salt and pepper

4 sprigs fresh thyme

8 tablespoons white wine

4 whole quail

Salt and pepper

2 egg whites, lightly beaten

1. Preheat the oven to 425F. If you have a convection setting, that is best.

2. In a saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Sweat the shallots and garlic until they are soft. Add the mushrooms and brown them on all sides. Add more oil or a bit of b.u.t.ter toward the end if the pan becomes too dry. Add the leeks and tomatoes. Cover partially with a lid and cook on low heat until all of the excess liquid has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Cut two large pieces of parchment paper in half. Fold each piece in half and cut off the corners, rounding off each edge, so that when unfolded, all outer and inner corners of each piece of paper are rounded.

4. Place a fourth of the vegetable mixture on one rounded half of each piece of parchment. Top each with a whole sprig of thyme and moisten with 2 tablespoons of white wine.

5. Season the quail liberally with salt and pepper. Insert a toothpick through the legs to keep them together. Then lay one quail over each bed of vegetables.

6. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges of the parchment paper with the beaten egg white, and press the edges together to seal. Brush the edges of the folded package with the beaten egg white and make a series of short folds along the edges. Brush the edges again with egg white and repeat the short folds. Very lightly brush the top of each parchment package with oil.

7. Place the papillotes on a sheet tray. Bake for 10 minutes, until completely puffed and the parchment has browned. Serve the quail in the papillote to be opened at the table, so that people can enjoy the aroma when they open the package.

Also try: any small game bird of similar size

Quail Kebabs

Serves 4 This idea of kebabs was described to me while I was in England, sitting at the fireside with a lovely woman, at a pub. She is married to a farmer-gamekeeper and is frequently faced with a glut of game birds. This is one of her favorite recipes, no doubt inspired by the high-quality ethnic food that is now prevalent in Britain. You can also add any medley of vegetables to these skewers. These kebabs will also work with a variety of other sauces, such as barbecue sauce (page 227) or sweet-and-sour dipping sauce (page 226).

4 quail, quartered, deboned, and cut into large chunks

4 tablespoons finely diced green chiles

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon red chili powder

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1 cup coconut milk

1. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate for 2 days in the refrigerator.

2. If using wooden skewers, soak them for 30 minutes first. Then skewer the chunks of meat onto four wooden or metal skewers and barbecue for about 6 minutes, rotating and basting with the marinade once (discard any remaining marinade). Alternatively, you can broil the skewers in the oven, though be careful not to overcook them or they will become dry.

Also try: brant, coot, duck, gallinule, goose, grouse, prairie chicken, partridge, pheasant, pigeon, ptarmigan, quail, rail, snipe, turkey, squirrel, rabbit

Stuffed Quail