Final Report of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition Commission Part 80

_Group 61. Various industries connected with clothing (processes and products)_.--Cla.s.s 383, hats; hats of felt, wool, straw, silk; caps, tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for hats. Cla.s.s 384, artificial flowers for dressing the hair, for dress and for all other uses.

Feathers, millinery, hair: coiffures, wigs, switches. Cla.s.s 385, s.h.i.+rts and underclothing for men, women, and children. Cla.s.s 386, hosiery of cotton, wool, silk, and floss silk, etc.; knitted hosiery, cravats, and neckties. Cla.s.s 387, corsets and corset fittings. Cla.s.s 388, elastic goods, suspenders, garters, belts. Cla.s.s 389, canes, whips, riding whips, sunshades, parasols, umbrellas. Cla.s.s 390, b.u.t.tons; b.u.t.tons of china, metal, cloth, silk, mother-of-pearl or other sh.e.l.l, ivory, nut, horn, bone, papier-mache, etc. Cla.s.s 391, buckles, eyelets, hooks and eyes, pins, needles, etc. Cla.s.s 392, fans and hand screens.

Owing to Mr. Farmer being called to his home, Mrs. Ella E. Lane Bowes, secretary of group 53, served as secretary of group 61 also. Group 61 was composed of 11 individuals, 7 men and 4 women, with an American for chairman and a Frenchman for secretary, and two vice-chairmen.

Group 61 contained 30 cla.s.ses. Within this group there was no especial exhibit by women, although their work stood out in prominence.

The most striking display was the corset display of Birdsey & Sumers, of New York. The corsets were shown on wax half-size figures, the color scheme being carried out in detail to match the corset. The most prominent figure was one done in white satin and real lace with jewel clasps, etc. This display, from its artistic arrangement and elegant materials was in conformity with the French exhibits. With the exception of the jewels, it was purely of American production; and the arrangement and display of the exhibit was due to an American woman, an employee of the manufacturer.

Another notable display was that of Kops Brothers, of New York.

They exhibited the "Nemo" corset and the "Smart Set," in an artistic manner. The arrangement of this display was also due to a woman.

Strouse-Adler & Co., New York City, showed a practical exhibit of what was termed by the exposition officials a "live exhibit,"

manufacturing garments from start to finish, and was an attractive display. These demonstrations were by women.

In the exhibit of the American Hosiery Company, New Britain, Conn., the goods were up to the high standard of the "Grand Prix."

The Lewis Knitting Company, Janesville, Wis., made an attractive display, and the writer was told at this exhibit that the garments were brought to a high state of perfection through the ingenuity of Mrs. Lewis.

The Wayne Knitting Mills, Fort Wayne, Ind., made a very beautiful display of fine knit goods, the work of women.

The Kleinert Rubber Company, New York City, made an artistic display of fancy things and were a.s.sisted in the arrangement of same by a woman. This exhibit should have special mention for having had everything in place and on time before opening day, which could not be said of many others. I was told that here also many of the improvements were the suggestions of women.

Many of the finest exhibits in this group were ladies' lingerie.

There were many creditable exhibits of women's underwear, the work of their hands, and marvelous creations in bead embroidery, lace, and artificial flowers.

A most brilliant display was made by the Rosenthal-Sloan Millinery Company, consisting of artificial flowers manufactured by women. This artistic display was said to have been suggested and carried out in detail by a woman. A unique feature of this display was a map of the United States, each State being formed with its adopted flower, the States being outlined in golden rod, the proposed national flower.

The writer understood that in some of the underwear and hosiery mills women were superintendents of departments and employed in great numbers in other work, the proportion of women to men being between 80 and 90 per cent.

The J.B. Stetson Company, of Philadelphia, Pa., made a good practical display of hats, and in their line the finished product was equal to any in the world, and showed great progress since the Columbian Exposition, when the writer had the pleasure of judging their exhibit. The average of woman's work is about equal.

In this group the advancement in special industries has been in the processes of women's work in the knit goods and corsets, which show greatest improvement. The creditable work shown in the arrangement and display of exhibits by suggestions and carrying out of detail by women leads one to think that women are more remarkable along these lines of work and have accomplished much in the last eleven years, since the time of the Chicago Exposition, or at any time in the past.

Their work was more individualized in former expositions, while in the latter it was impossible to draw comparisons in the advancement or success of women's work, the work not being placed in such a way as to enable one to judge whether it was solely that of women or men. All work was exhibited as the work of mankind in general, and could not be cla.s.sified under the head of either women's or men's work.

Where manufacturers were questioned relative to the percentage of women working in their establishments, they gladly answered the questions.

No woman received an award in this group.

Among the useful and distinctive inventions shown were the garter supporters, well known to be the invention of a woman.

The underwear in general, corsets, and accessories are more useful and more healthful from a physical standpoint, especially the corsets of to-day. This is an advancement.

There was more ingenuity displayed in the installation and taste in artistic arrangement of the exhibits, making them of greater value as exposition attractions; whereas in former expositions Philadelphia was experimental, the World's Columbian Exposition educational, and the Louisiana Purchase Exposition exploitive.

There is no reason why women should not have a large representation, if not equal with men, in all expositions. While they may not be the real inventors of the machines, devices, etc., they many times are the suggestors. Being the spenders and buyers for the home and family makes them more competent as judges of merchandise of all kinds and quicker to note improvements.

In the work of the world, especially in anything pertaining to the home, educational matters, arts, and professions, women hold such a prominent place to-day, almost exclusively doing the work in the manufacture of articles and habiliments for creature comforts, that it is impossible to ignore them.

_Summary of groups 53 and 61 (jury composed of 19 persons)_.--In previous world's fairs they were called judges, but at this one they were "jurors."

It would be well to dwell upon the vastness of the work accomplished by the pet.i.t jury within a brief period of time, for they were in constant work for twenty days, from morning till night, visiting the many exhibits. Upon examination, the value of the commodity or product was decided and the usefulness of the same and comparisons made with similar exhibits, consultation in jury meetings, where the many good points of the exhibits were presented and discussed, and a final decision was reached by vote of the jury as a whole.

The various machines were for the manufacture of women's habiliments, with the much-needed garment-drafting machine, which, if not invented by women, was at their suggestion and creation of the demand for supplies.

The up-to-date paper patterns, wax figures, papier-mache forms, milliners' findings, and sewing machines made the grand whole.

The finished products were the marvelous creations of her hands, for, as truly said, man did invent these machines, but women work and bring forth the grand finale, therefore one is not complete without the other. In all things it takes the good work of men and women to complete the whole. And this applies to jury work as well.

From the writer's experience in expositions up to date she would approve the combination of the John Boyd Thatcher individual judge and diploma systems, together with the bronze, silver, gold, and "grand prix," which would be preferable from an educational standpoint and also to show to the world what the medal was given for. Also, the group or pet.i.t jury doing the work should combine with a larger jury, and perhaps a court of appeal, it being impossible for anyone in a higher court to know the why and the wherefore of the workers of the pet.i.t jury; and as far as the writer could learn it was the concensus of opinion of both exhibitors and jurors, as heretofore stated, that the opportunity to hold to the last was more preferable.

As an observer of the workings of world's fairs from the Centennial at Philadelphia, and also being closely allied with other great fairs, having visited same since that time and being a judge heretofore, will repeat the general remark of exhibitors and judges of former expositions. The consensus of opinion was that "no world's fair was complete without a jury composed of men and women, a just representation," working in unison and perfect accord with only one end in view--justice to all.

Group 61 (combined with 53, as above), Mrs. A.G. Harrow, Ottumwa, Iowa, Juror.

Under the group heading, "Various industries connected with clothing," the ten cla.s.ses into which it was divided represented (processes and products): Hats; hats of felt, wool, straw, silk; caps, tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for hats. Artificial flowers for dressing the hair, for dress, and for all other uses. Feathers. Millinery.

Hair; coiffures, wigs, switches. s.h.i.+rts and underclothing for men, women, and children. Hosiery of cotton, wool, silk, and floss silk, etc.; knitted hosiery; cravats and neckties. Corsets and corset fittings. Elastic goods, suspenders, garters, belts.

Canes, whips, riding whips, sunshades, parasols, umbrellas.

b.u.t.tons, b.u.t.tons of china, metal, cloth, silk, mother-of-pearl, or other sh.e.l.l, ivory, nut, horn, bone, papier-mache, etc.

Buckles, eyelets, hooks and eyes, pins, needles, etc. Fans and hand screens.

Mrs. Harrow reports as follows:

The work of group 53, of which I was a member, did not take us very extensively among the women exhibitors of the exposition, but in every instance where their work came under our observation or inspection they demonstrated their marked ability in the manner and taste shown in their display, and in some instances, where their compet.i.tors were men, they proved the fact that if their work was not superior, it was at least equal to that of the men.

In my opinion it is better for women's work to come in compet.i.tion with that of men and not be separated.

All women in general, I feel sure, must have been greatly benefited by having a fair representation at the exposition, as it could not but help placing a higher standard upon all women's work, and that work in particular in which she excelled.

And as woman's work receives benefit, and also success by being placed on equal terms of comparison with that of men, so likewise may man's work receive helpful suggestions and real advancement by being brought into compet.i.tion with the work of women.

Group 58 (later combined with Group 59), Mrs. E.D. Wood, Indianapolis, Ind., Juror.

Under the group heading "Laces, embroidery, and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs," the seven cla.s.ses into which it was divided represented: Lace made by hand, laces, blond or guipure, wrought on pillow or with the needle or crochet, made of flax, cotton, silk, wool, gold, silver, or other threads. Laces made by machinery; tulles, plain or embroidered; imitation lace, blond and guipure, in thread of every kind. Embroidery made by hand; embroidery by needle or crochet, with thread of every kind, on all kinds of grounds (fabric, net, tulle, skin, etc.), including needlework upon canvas, as well as embroidery applique or ornamented with gems, pearls, jet, spangles of metal or other material, feathers, sh.e.l.ls, etc. Embroidery made by machinery, with the foundation preserved, or with the foundation cut or burned away. Tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs; galloons, lace or braids, fringes, ta.s.sels, all kinds of applique and ornamental work, handmade or woven, for millinery or garments, ecclesiastical vestments, civil or military uniforms; for furniture, saddlery, carriages, etc.; threads and plates of metal, gold or silver, real or imitation, spangles, chenilles, and all other articles used for tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Church embroidery; church ornaments and linen; altar cloths, banners, and other objects for religious ceremonies in fabrics ornamented with lace, embroideries and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Curtains, with lace, guipure, or embroidery, upon tulle or fabrics; blinds, screens, portieres, lambrequins, and other draperies, ornamented with lace, embroidery, and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs.

Mrs. Wood writes:

Our jury was a large one--about thirty members. They came from France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, China, j.a.pan, Great Britain, Mexico, Porto Rico; the other members were Americans, and represented the different States. The work we were to do was what was known as "groups 58 and 59," and covered so much ground we found that in order to finish in the required time we would have to divide our jury, so that some were detailed to examine embroidery, others costumes, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, laces, etc. I was on the lace committee. Laces made by hand, wrought on pillows, by needle or crochet, silk, wool, gold, silver, or thread, machine-made laces, imitation, embroidered tulles, and lace curtains. It would be impossible to describe the beauties of the lovely laces, the time, patience, and labor given to them. We examined the exhibits in the Manufacturers' Building, Varied Industries, all foreign buildings. The work done by women in the Philippines, Porto Rico, Mexican and Alaskan exhibits was as fine in texture and as beautiful as imported laces. The work in every instance was as handsome as that shown at the Chicago World's Fair, but perhaps not on so large a scale.

I was a member of a committee of four appointed to adjust the losses on the handsome imported costumes and wraps in the French section that were damaged during a wind and rain storm that swept over the exposition grounds during the summer and damaged the building and the immense gla.s.s cases containing these valuable goods, the loss of which amounted to hundreds of dollars to the Exposition Company.

Group 59 (combined with Group 58 above), Mrs. William S. Major, Shelbyville, Ind., Juror.

Under the group heading "Industries producing wearing apparel for men, women, and children," the four cla.s.ses into which it was divided represented: Clothing to measure for men and boys; ordinary costumes, suits for hunting and riding, leather breeches and similar articles; suits for gymnastic uses and games, military and civil uniforms, campaign clothing of special types, robes and costumes for magistrates, members of the bar, professors, ecclesiastics, etc., liveries, various costumes for children. Clothing, ready-made, for men and boys. Clothing to measure for women and girls; dresses, vests, jackets, cloaks (made by ladies' tailors, dressmakers, or cloak makers), riding habits, sporting suits. Clothing, ready-made, for women and girls. Patterns.

Mrs. Major reports as follows: