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Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 21

Encyclopedia of Needlework - BestLightNovel.com

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[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 372. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED HORIZONTALLY. HOW TO COVER THE HORIZONTAL THREADS.]

Then descending, pick up the nearest horizontal thread from below, so that the working thread lies to the right of the needle, and cover all the horizontal threads you have laid in this manner.

When you have taken up the last thread, pa.s.s the needle downwards from above, through the nearest loop, and bring it back through the one at which you entered it.

To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you must lay your thread to the right of the needle, fig. 372.

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS (figs. 373 and 374).--As the ill.u.s.tration shows, you have to pick up all the cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty s.p.a.ce. The number and length of the threads which you carry across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to replace.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 373. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS.

POSITION OF THE THREADS.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 374. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS.

HOW TO COVER THE OBLIQUE THREADS.]

Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the one the original web is made of, and make a few st.i.tches over the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first disengaged loop, pa.s.s it under two threads issuing from one loop, and then bring it back again into the same loop between the two slanting threads, drawing it out again upwards from below, through the next loop, and so on. The new loop must be just equal to the old ones in size. Make in the same manner as at the beginning, two or three st.i.tches at the end of the row, within the edge of the hole. Work back in a similar way, with this difference only, that you turn your work round.

PIQUe PATTERN (fig. 375).--The following patterns are suitable for making counterpanes, petticoats, vests and other articles of clothing.

Select a suitable number of Coton a tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of st.i.tches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain st.i.tches and 1 purled, taken from behind.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 375. PIQUe PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30.]

7th row--purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and knit 5 plain more and so on.

PIQUe PATTERN (fig. 376).--Cast on a number of st.i.tches divisible by 14.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 376. PIQUe PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Coton pour crochet 4 fils D.M.C Nos. 4 to 20.[A]]

1st and 2nd row--* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat from *.

3rd and 4th row--* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat from *.

Repeat the whole from the 1st row.

PIQUe PATTERN (fig. 377).--Cast on a number of st.i.tches divisible by 4.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 377. PIQUe PATTERN. MATERIALS: The same as for fig.

371.]

The 8 first rows--knit 2, purl 2.

9th and 10th row--knit 2 over the 2 purled, purl 2 over the 2 knitted of the 8th row.

11th and 12th rows--the same as the first 8 rows.

13th and 14th row--the same as the 9th and 10th row.

15th to the 23rd--the same as the first 8 rows.

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 378).--This pattern is to be worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes thicken the cotton more than the light ones do.

The blue, red and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 378. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C No. 6, 8, 10 or 12. COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321 and Gris-Tilleul 391.[A]]

Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the green, in order that the same number of st.i.tches should make the same length of stripe.

Cast on 28 st.i.tches:

1st needle--slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, 1 chain st.i.tch.

2nd needle--wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain st.i.tch.

3rd needle--right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain st.i.tch.

4th needle--wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain st.i.tch.

5th needle--on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain st.i.tch.

6th needle--on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain st.i.tch.

7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle like the 3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. Five plain st.i.tches form a zig-zag in the middle of the stripe.

Join the stripes with crochet st.i.tches; of which several kinds are described in the next chapter.

KNITTED SQUARE (fig. 379).--Cast on 2 st.i.tches on to each of the 4 needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 379. KNITTED SQUARE. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C No. 8 or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20.]

1st row--over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.

2nd row--knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.

3rd row--knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

4th row--knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

5th row--knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.

6th row--knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.

7th row--knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.

8th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2 *.

9th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2 *.

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Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 21 summary

You're reading Encyclopedia of Needlework. This manga has been translated by Updating. Author(s): Therese de Dillmont. Already has 527 views.

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