Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 22

10th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2 *.

11th row--knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2 *.

12th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 st.i.tches (that is, first knit off the second st.i.tch plain and then the first), knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

13th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.

14th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.

15th row--knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.

16th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

17th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

18th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

19th row--knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

20th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

21st row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

22nd row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

23rd row--knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.

24th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

25th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, knit 2 *.

26th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

27th round--knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.

PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN (fig. 380).--This easy and extremely elastic st.i.tch is used for all sorts of articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 380. PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN.]

Cast on a number of st.i.tches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the edge.

1st row--slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the next st.i.tch, as if to purl it, slip the st.i.tch from the left needle to the right, knit 1, repeat from *, and finish with 2 plain.

2nd row--begin with 1 chain, knit 1, knit the slipped st.i.tch and the over together, over, slip the single st.i.tch that remains, from the left needle to the right. When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake alternately.

DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING (fig. 381).--Begin on the wrong side.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 381. DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING.]

1st row--like the 1st row of fig. 380.

2nd row--knit all the st.i.tches, pa.s.s the over by putting the needle into it from right to left.

3rd row--like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only the second and third row that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a charming effect, done in two colours, by working them alternately backwards and forwards.

PLAITED St.i.tCH (fig. 382).--This kind of st.i.tch is worked in stripes, which, for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller articles the higher numbers. Plaited st.i.tch is formed by crossing the st.i.tches, that is, by knitting the second st.i.tch on the left needle to begin with, and then the first st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 382. PLAITED St.i.tCH.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

If you cross two or more st.i.tches in a few successive rows without slipping them, the st.i.tches will be seen by degrees, to form a plait, as shown in fig. 382.

1st row--purl 4, cast on 3 st.i.tches on to an auxiliary needle, and leave it hanging on the inside of the work; knit 3 and then knit the 3 st.i.tches on the extra needle, purl 4.

Then follow 5 rows, in which you purl all the purled st.i.tches and knit all the plain ones. After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.

TURKISH St.i.tCH (fig. 383).--1st row--slip 1, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on to the 2 last st.i.tches, which you knit plain.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 383. TURKISH St.i.tCH.]

2nd row--slip the 1st, knit the 2nd and the 3rd plain, the latter having been formed by the last over on the 1st needle; 1 over, 1 intake with the st.i.tch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake and so on.

TURKISH St.i.tCH WITH BEADS (fig. 384).--String the beads on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any colour, and small beads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 384. TURKISH St.i.tCH WITH BEADS.]

For close beaded knitting, plain st.i.tch is the best. Run the beads down singly at each st.i.tch. The beads will fall on the reverse side of the work so that in knitting with beads, remember that the reverse side will be the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same st.i.tch as fig. 383, you run down 2 or sometimes 3 beads before knitting each st.i.tch.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON (fig. 385).--A variety of pretty things, such as open-work stockings, shawls, curtains etc. can be made in this pattern, worked with two sizes of thread. To give it its full effect it ought to be knitted with coa.r.s.e needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 385. KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON.

MATERIALS: Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80, ecru.[A]]

Cast on a number of st.i.tches that divides by 8. Take the coa.r.s.e thread to begin with.

1st and 2nd row--purl.

3rd row--purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.