Seasoning of Wood Part 21

8. Successful drying cannot be accomplished without ample and free circulation of air at all times.

If the above instructions are fully carried out, and good judgment used in the handling and operation of the blower kiln, no difficulties should be encountered in successfully drying the materials at hand.

The "Pipe" or "Moist-air" Dry Kiln

While in the blower cla.s.s of dry kiln, the circulation is obtained by forced draft with the aid of fans or blowers, in the Moist-air kilns (see Fig. 31); the circulation is obtained by natural draft only, aided by the manipulation of dampers installed at the receiving end of the drying room, which lead to vertical flues through a stack to the outside atmosphere.

The heat in these kilns is obtained by condensing steam in coils of pipe, which are placed underneath the material to be dried. As the degree of heat required, and steam pressure govern the amount of radiation, there are several types of radiating coils. In Fig. 32 will be seen the Single Row Heating Coils for live or high pressure steam, which are used when the low temperature is required. Figure 33 shows the Double (or 2) Row Heating Coils for live or high pressure steam.

This apparatus is used when a medium temperature is required. In Fig.

34 will be seen the Vertical Type Heating Coils which is recommended where exhaust or low-pressure steam is to be used, or may be used with live or high-pressure steam when high temperatures are desired.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 31. Section through a typical Moist-air Dry Kiln.]

These heating coils are usually installed in sections, which permit any degree of heat from the minimum to the maximum to be maintained by the elimination of, or the addition of, any number of heating sections. This gives a dry kiln for the drying of green softwoods, or by shutting off a portion of the radiating coils--thus reducing the temperature--a dry kiln for drying hardwoods, that will not stand the maximum degree of heat.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 32. Single Pipe Heating Apparatus for Dry Kilns, arranged for the Use of Live Steam. For Low Temperatures.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 33. Double Pipe Heating Apparatus for Dry Kilns, arranged for the Use of Live Steam. For Medium Temperatures.]

In the Moist-air or Natural Draft type of dry kiln, any degree of humidity, from clear and dry to a dense fog may be obtained; this is in fact, the main and most important feature of this type of dry kiln, and the most essential one in the drying of hardwoods.

It is not generally understood that the length of a kiln has any effect upon the quant.i.ty of material that may be put through it, but it is a fact nevertheless that long kilns are much more effective, and produce a better quality of stock in less time than kilns of shorter length.

Experience has proven that a kiln from 80 to 125 feet in length will produce the best results, and it should be the practice, where possible, to keep them within these figures. The reason for this is that in a long kiln there is a greater drop in temperature between the discharge end and the green or receiving end of the kiln.

It is very essential that the conditions in the receiving end of the kiln, as far as the temperature and humidity are concerned, must go hand in hand.

It has also been found that in a long kiln the desired conditions may be obtained with higher temperatures than with a shorter kiln; consequently higher temperatures may be carried in the discharge end of the kiln, thereby securing greater rapidity in drying. It is not unusual to find that a temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit is carried in the discharge end of a long dry kiln with safety, without in any way injuring the quality of the material, although, it would be better not to exceed 180 degrees in the discharge end, and about 120 degrees in the receiving or green end in order to be on the safe side.

Operation of the "Moist-air" Dry Kiln

To obtain the best results these kilns should be kept in continuous operation when once started, that is, they should be operated continuously day and night. When not in operation at night or on Sundays, and the kiln is used to season green stock direct from the saw, the large doors at both ends of the kiln should be opened wide, or the material to be dried will "sap stain."

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 34. Vertical Pipe Heating Apparatus for Dry Kilns; may be used in Connection with either Live or Exhaust Steam for High or Low Temperatures.]

It is highly important that the operator attending any drying apparatus keep a minute and accurate record of the condition of the material as it is placed into the drying room, and its final condition when taken out.

Records of the temperature and humidity should be taken frequently and at stated periods for the different thicknesses and species of material, in order that he may have reliable data to guide him in future operations.

The following facts should be taken into consideration when operating the Moist-air dry kiln:

1. Before any material has been placed in the drying room, the steam should be turned into the heating or radiating coils, gradually warming them, and bringing the temperature in the kiln up to the desired degree.

2. Care should be exercised that there is sufficient humidity in the receiving or loading end of the kiln, in order to guard against checking, case-hardening, etc.

Therefore it is essential that the steam spray at the receiving or loading end of the kiln be properly manipulated.

3. As the temperature depends princ.i.p.ally upon the pressure of steam carried in the boilers, maintain a steam pressure of not less than 80 pounds at all times; it may range as high as 100 pounds. The higher the temperature with its relatively high humidity the more rapidly the drying will be accomplished.

4. Since air circulation is as essential as the proper degree of heat, and as its contact with the material to be dried depends upon its free circulation, it is necessary that the dampers for its admittance into, and its exit from, the drying room be efficiently and properly operated.

Successful drying cannot be accomplished without ample and free circulation of air at all times during the drying process.

If the above basic principles are carefully noted and followed out, and good common sense used in the handling and operation of the kiln apparatus, no serious difficulties should arise against the successful drying of the materials at hand.

Choice of Drying Method

At this point naturally arises the question: Which of the two cla.s.ses of dry kilns, the "Moist-air" or "Blower" kiln is the better adapted for my particular needs?

This must be determined entirely by the species of wood to be dried, its condition when it goes into the kiln, and what kind of finished product is to be manufactured from it.

Almost any species of hardwood which has been subjected to air-seasoning for three months or more may be dried rapidly and in the best possible condition for glue-jointing and fine finis.h.i.+ng with a "Blower" kiln, but green hardwood, direct from the saw, can only be successfully dried (if at all) in a "Moist-air" kiln.

Most furniture factories have considerable bent stock which must of necessity be thoroughly steamed before bending. By steaming, the initial process of the Moist-air kiln has been consummated. Hence, the Blower kiln is better adapted to the drying of such stock than the Moist-air kiln would be, as the stock has been thoroughly soaked by the preliminary steaming, and all that is required is sufficient heat to volatilize the moisture, and a strong circulation of air to remove it as it comes to the surface.

The Moist-air kiln is better adapted to the drying of tight cooperage stock, while the Blower kiln is almost universally used throughout the slack cooperage industry for the drying of its products.

For the drying of heavy timbers, planks, blocks, carriage stock, etc., and for all species of hardwood thicker than one inch, the Moist-air kiln is undoubtedly the best.

Both types of kilns are equally well adapted to the drying of 1-inch green Norway and white pine, elm, hemlock, and such woods as are used in the manufacture of flooring, ceiling, siding, s.h.i.+ngles, hoops, tub and pail stock, etc.

The selection of one or the other for such work is largely matter of personal opinion.

Kilns of Different Types

All dry kilns as in use to-day are divided as to method of drying into two cla.s.ses:

The "Pipe" or "Moist-air" kiln; The "Blower" or "Hot Blast" kiln;

both of which have been fully explained in a previous article.

The above two cla.s.ses are again subdivided into five different types of dry kilns as follows:

The "Progressive" kiln; The "Apartment" kiln; The "Pocket" kiln; The "Tower" kiln; The "Box" kiln.

The "Progressive" Dry Kiln

Dry kilns constructed so that the material goes in at one end and is taken out at the opposite end are called Progressive dry kilns, from the fact that the material gradually progresses through the kiln from one stage to another while drying (see Fig. 31).

In the operation of the Progressive kiln, the material is first subjected to a sweating or steaming process at the receiving or loading end of the kiln with a low temperature and a relative high humidity. It then gradually progresses through the kiln into higher temperatures and lower humidities, as well as changes of air circulation, until it reaches the final stage at the discharge end of the kiln.

Progressive kilns, in order to produce the most satisfactory results, especially in the drying of hardwoods or heavy softwood timbers, should be not less than 100 feet in length (see Fig. 35).

In placing this type of kiln in operation, the following instructions should be carefully followed: