The Theory and Practice of Archery Part 2

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 9.--CHESTED ARROW.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 10.--STRAIGHT CYLINDRICAL ARROW.]

The recoil of the bow, besides the motion in the direction of aim, impresses a rotary motion upon the arrow about its centre of gravity.

This tendency to rotate, however, about an axis through its centre of gravity is counteracted by the feathers. For, suppose the arrow to be shot off with a slight rotary motion about a vertical axis, in a short time its point will deviate to the left of the plane of projection, and the centre of gravity will be the only point which continues in that plane. The feathers of the arrow will now be turned to the right of the same plane, and, through the velocity of the arrow, will cause a considerable resistance of the air against them. This resistance will twist the arrow until its point comes to the right of the plane of projection, when it will begin to turn the arrow the contrary way. Thus, through the agency of the feathers, the deviation of the point of the arrow from the plane of projection is confined within very narrow limits. Any rotation of the arrow about a horizontal axis will be counteracted in the same way by the action of the feathers. Both these tendencies may be distinctly observed in the actual initial motion of the arrow. In the discussion of these rotations of the arrow about vertical and horizontal axes the bow is supposed to be held in a vertical position.

If the foregoing reasoning be carefully considered, it will be seen how prejudicial to the correct flight of the arrow in the direction of the aim any variation in the shape of that part of it which is in contact with the bow must necessarily be; for by this means an additional force is introduced into the elements of its flight. Take for example the chested arrow, which is smallest at the point and largest at the feathers: here there is during its whole pa.s.sage over the bow a constant and increasing deviation to the left of the direction of aim, caused by the arrow's shape, independent of, and in addition to, a deviation in the like direction caused by the retention of the nock upon the string.

Thus this description of arrow has greater difficulty in recovering its initial direction, the forces opposed to its doing so being so much increased. Accordingly, in practice, the chested arrow has always a tendency to fly to the left. These chested arrows are mostly _flight-arrows_, made very light, for long-distance shooting, and they are made of this shape to prevent their being too weak-waisted to bear steadily the recoil of very strong bows.

As regards the _bobtailed arrow_, which is largest at the point and smallest at the feathers, the converse is true to the extent that this description of arrow will deviate towards the left less than either the straight or chested arrow; moreover, any considerable bobtailedness would render an arrow so weak-waisted that it would be useless.

There is another arrow, known as the _barrelled arrow_, which is largest in the middle, and tapers thence towards each end. The quickest flight may be obtained with this sort of arrow, as to it may be applied a lighter pile without bringing on either the fault of a chested arrow or the weak-waistedness of a bobtailed arrow.

If the tapering be of equal amount at each end of the arrow, the pressure will act and react in precisely the same manner as in the case of the cylindrical arrow, with the result that this arrow will fly straight in the direction in which it is aimed. The cylindrical and the barrelled shapes are therefore recommended as the best for target-shooting. And as the barrelled is necessarily stronger in the waist and less likely to flirt, even if a light arrow be used with a strong bow, this shape is perhaps better than the cylindrical.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 11. _a_, different balancing points of thin arrows.

bobtail chested barrelled straight]

The _feathering_ of the arrow is about the most delicate part of the fletcher's craft, and it requires the utmost care and experience to effect it thoroughly well. It seems difficult now to realise why the feathering of the arrow came to have grown to the size in use during Mr.

Ford's time, when the feather occupied the whole distance between the archer's fingers and the place on the bow where the arrow lies when it is nocked previous to shooting--i.e. the length of the feather was upwards of five inches. Mr. H. Elliott was the first archer who, about fifteen years ago, reduced the dimensions of the feathers of his arrows by cutting off the three inches of each feather furthest from the nock.

He found this reduction enabled the arrow to fly further. Others soon followed his example, and in the course of about twelve months all the arrow-makers had supplied their customers with arrows of the new pattern, which, however, cannot be called a new pattern, as Oriental arrows, and many flight-arrows, were much less heavily feathered. The long feathering is now scarcely ever seen, except occasionally when it is erroneously used to diminish the difficulty of shooting at sixty yards. Mr. Ford recommended rather full-sized feathers 'as giving a steadiness to the flight.' With the reduced feathers arrows fly as steadily, and certainly more keenly towards the mark. A fair amount of rib should be left on the feather, for if the rib be pared too fine the lasting quality of the feather will be diminished. The three feathers of an arrow should be from the same wing, right or left; and as none but a raw beginner will find any difficulty in nocking his arrow the right way--i.e. with what is known as the c.o.c.k feather upwards, or at right angles to the line of the nock--without having this c.o.c.k feather of a different colour, it is advisable to have the three feathers all alike.

Perhaps the brown feathers of the peac.o.c.k's wing are the best of all, but the black turkey-feathers are also highly satisfactory. The white turkey-feathers are also equally good, but had better be avoided, as they too readily get soiled, and are not to be easily distinguished from white goose-feathers. These last, as well as those of the grey goose, though highly thought of by our forefathers, are now in no repute, and it is probable that our ancestors, if they had had the same plentiful supply of peafowls and turkeys as ourselves, would have had less respect for the wings of geese. The reason why the three feathers must be from the same wing is that every feather is outwardly convex and inwardly concave. When the feathers are correctly applied, all three alike, this their peculiarity of form rifles the arrow or causes it to rotate on its own axis. This may be tested by shooting an arrow through a pane of gla.s.s, when it will be found that the sc.r.a.ping against the arrow of the sharp edges of the fracture pa.s.ses along the arrow spirally. Some years ago a very unnecessary patent was taken out for rifling an arrow by putting on the feathers spirally, over-doing what was already sufficient. As regards the position of the feather, it should be brought as near as possible to the nock. Some consider an inch in length of feather quite sufficient. It is certain that any length between two inches and one inch will do; so each individual may please himself and suit the length of the feathering to the length and weight of his arrows. The two shapes in use are the triangular and the parabolic or balloon-shaped. Of these both are good--the former having the advantage of carrying the steerage further back, whilst the latter is a trifle stiffer.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 12, FIG. 13.]

The feathers are preserved from damp by a coat of oil paint laid on between them and for one-eighth of an inch above and below them. This should afterwards be varnished, and the rib of the feather should be carefully covered, but care must be taken to avoid injuring the suppleness of the feather with the varnish. Feathers laid down or ruffled by wet may be restored by spinning the arrow before a warm fire carefully.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 14.]

The _pile_, or point, is an important part of the arrow. Of the different shapes that have been used, the best for target-shooting--now almost the only survivor--is the square-shouldered parallel pile. Its greatest advantage is, that if the arrow be overdrawn so that the pile be brought on to the bow, the aim will not be injured, as must be the case with all conical piles so drawn. (Very light flight-arrows, for which the piles provided for ladies are considered too heavy, must still be furnished with the conical piles used for children's arrows.) This parallel pile is mostly made in two pieces--a pointed cone for its point, which is soldered on to the cylindrical part, which itself is made of a flat piece of metal soldered into this form. This same-shaped pile has occasionally been made turned out of solid metal; but this pile is liable to be so heavy as to be unsuitable for any but the heaviest arrows, and the fletchers aver that it is difficult to fix it on firmly owing to the grease used in its manufacture. Great care should be taken, in the manufacture of arrows, that the footing exactly fits the pile, so as to fill entirely the inside of it; unless the footing of the arrow reach the bottom of the pile, the pile will either crumple up or be driven down the stele when the pile comes in contact with a hard substance. It is, of course, fixed on with glue; and to prevent its coming off from damp, a blow, or the adhesiveness of stiff clay, it is well to indent it on each side with a sharp hard-pointed punch fitted for the purpose with a groove, in which the arrow is placed whilst the necessary pressure is applied. This instrument may be procured of Hill & Son, cutlers, 4 Haymarket.

The _nock_ should be strong, and very carefully finished, so that no injury may be done by the string or to the string. Of course the nock must be of the same size in section as the stele of the arrow; and this furnishes an additional argument against the bobtailed arrow, which is smallest at this end. The notch or groove in which the string acts should be about one-eighth of an inch wide and about three-sixteenths of an inch deep. The bottom of this notch will be much improved by the application of a round file of the right gauge, i.e. quite a trifle more than the eighth of an inch in diameter; but great care must be taken to apply this uniformly, and the nock must not be unduly weakened. This application will enable the archer to put thicker, and therefore safer, lapping to the nocking-place of the string, and the danger of the string being loose in the nock will be lessened. It is possible that this additional grooving of the nock may to a very trifling extent impede the escape of the arrow from the string. Mr. Ford recommended the application of a copper rivet through the nock near to the bottom of the notch to provide against the danger of splitting the nock. But it is so doubtful whether any rivet fine enough for safe application would be strong enough to guard against this danger, that the better plan will be to avoid the different sorts of carelessness that lead towards this accident.

As regards the _length_ of the arrow no arbitrary rule can be laid down. The arrow most generally in use is twenty-eight inches in length from the point of the pile to the bottom of the groove of the nock. This arrow may be easily drawn up by any man of average height--the twenty-seven inches, or the clothyard length of the old English archer, leaving the inch of pile undrawn. A taller man may venture to draw the pile. An arrow of twenty-nine inches may be adopted by those who have very long arms or are unusually tall. Those who are short of stature or short in limb may adopt the shorter arrow of twenty-seven inches.

Shorter arrows than this will be found to fly unsteadily, and the longer arrows, if thoroughly drawn up, are very trying to the bows. The shorter arrows of twenty-seven inches in length have been in much more frequent use since about 1862, when the late T. L. Coulson adopted them, and advocated that it was better to draw up a shorter arrow than to leave a longer one undrawn. The fault of drawing not far enough is so much more frequent than that of overdrawing, that archers are strongly recommended to avoid shortening their arrow unadvisedly, and rather to draw the longer ones as far as they reasonably can. The fault of overdrawing is so dangerous to the archer, his tackle, and others, that, though an unfrequent fault, a caution against it must not be omitted. Whatever be the length of the arrow, it should always be drawn up to exactly the same point.

The _weight_ of the arrow must to a certain extent be regulated by its length and by the strength of the bow with which it is to be used; for if an arrow be a long one it must have bulk sufficient to ensure its stiffness, and stiffness also in proportion to the strength of the bow.

4_s._ for the lowest, and 5_s._ 6_d._ for the highest weight, are the two extremes within which every length of arrow and strength of bow may be properly fitted, so far as gentlemen are concerned. For ladies, 2_s._ 6_d._ and 3_s._ 6_d._ should be about the limits. It should be borne in mind that light arrows, unless dictated by physical weakness, are a mistake in target-shooting. For flight-shooting very light-chested arrows may be procured stiff enough for any strength of bow; but in this style of shooting distance to be covered is of more importance than accuracy of aim. It would be much better if the arrow-makers, instead of selling their arrows in sets, progressing by three silver pennyweights, would sell them also weighed to the intermediate pennyweights. As the matter stands now, supposing the archer's favourite weight to be 4_s._ 9_d._, he may have at one time a set weighing rather less than 4_s._ 8_d._, and at another time rather more than 4_s._ 10_d._ As all the intermediate weights of arrows are manufactured, there can be no sufficient reason why the lighter set should not be marked and sold as 4_s._ 8_d._, and the heavier as 4_s._ 10_d._ A careful archer should attend also to the balance of his arrows. By this is meant that the same centre of gravity should pervade the whole set. Longer or shorter, lighter or heavier footing will vary this balancing-point, as also any variation in the weight of the piles.

As the variation of elevation, or distance to be shot, should not be managed by a change of weight in arrows, it is decidedly advisable to keep arrows all of the same weight, &c. Indeed it is a great mistake to change any part of the tackle, bow or arrow, during the shooting, except in unavoidable cases. The scoring will seldom be bettered by such means.

Formerly only two arrows were shot at each end, and three were carried, and called an 'archer's pair,' including the spare one. Now it is the almost universal custom to shoot three arrows at each end. Some spare ones should, of course, be at hand in case of accidents. It must be remembered that if the slightest variation in shape or weight occurs amongst those in use, the line or elevation is sure to be affected, to the serious detriment of accurate hitting; therefore too much care cannot be taken in their choice.

Whether it be for store or for daily use, the arrow should be kept in a quiver or case made on such a plan that each shall have its separate cell, and they should be kept upright when possible, and so be insured from warping, or from having their feathers crushed. It is too much the custom to squeeze a quant.i.ty of arrows into a small quiver. Let not any archer who values his tackle be guilty of this folly. An arrow that has had one of its feathers crumpled from this cause will, maybe, wobble and stagger all the rest of its life, though in all other respects it be in perfect repair. Arrows will be found to wear out quite speedily enough without being subjected to ill-usage or neglect to hurry them through their short lives.

It appears to be well authenticated that if a light-chested flight-arrow be feathered at each end, with the feathers trimmed lower at the nock than at the pile end, when shot against the wind it will return back again like a boomerang. And if the same-shaped arrow be feathered in the middle only, it will in its flight make a right angle, and no power of bow can send it any considerable distance.

Mr. R. Hely-Hutchinson, already mentioned as having made experiments in modern times with steel bows, had another peculiarity. On the back of his bow he had a flat piece of hard wood or metal fixed at right angles to the length of his bow. An upright piece of the same material was fitted into a groove in this, whose outside distance was about an inch from the place where the arrow usually touches the bow above the handle.

He used always to shoot with his arrow resting, not on the bow, or on his hand, but in the outside angle between this projection and the upright piece of it. He aimed as other archers do, and has been seen to make excellent hitting at the distance of one hundred yards, even when far advanced in years. In this case the axis of the arrow, or the line of aim, was distant from the plane through the string and the axis of the bow an inch in addition to the usual half-width of the arrow and half-width of the bow. Yet the arrow appeared to fly quite steadily and truly. It is not known why he adopted this peculiarity, and it is unnecessary to inquire; but it will serve as a useful peg whereon to hang a further consideration of the difficulties an arrow has to contend with in getting straight to the point of aim, and its determined resolution to overcome these difficulties. In addition to the forces already discussed as acting upon the arrow, there is also the force of gravity, the resistance of the air, and the interference of the wind; but these forces affect in the same way all arrows, however shot. The same may be said of all the other forces implicated, until there is an artificially increased impediment interposed in addition to the natural one of the half-bow and half-arrow. Now, supposing the distance of the nock from the centre of the bow be such when the arrow is drawn that a perpendicular let fall from the centre of the bow to the line of aim will mark off twenty-seven inches of draw, the resolution of the force acting in the line from the nock to the centre of the bow will be correctly represented by twenty-seven in the direction of the point of aim and three-eighths at right angles to that direction; or the relation between the straight part of the whole force and its remainder will be as 216 to 5.

But when Mr. Hutchinson's peculiar method of shooting is compared with this natural way, it will appear that the relation between these same resolved forces will be as 216 to 13; showing that the obstruction in this latter case has been considerably more than doubled--the keenness of flight will be diminished, and increased _friction_ will be shown between the arrow and its resting-place at the instant of the loose.

Besides the spin given to the string at the loose, there is also a push, at right angles to the direction delivered, by the more or less unavoidable obstruction of the fingers as they liberate the string; but this push, occurring before the liberation of the string, is the final difficulty of the aim and loose.

Immediately the string is loosed the arrow has, as it were, the nocking-place between its teeth in the nock, and contributes to the direction of its course to the point of rest; and it is highly probable that the path of the nocking-place from the loose to rest is not confined to the plane of the string and axis of the bow.

Greater or diminished friction between the bow and arrow would be another way of representing greater or less obstruction to the aim of the arrow. As the arrow deepens the groove made by its pa.s.sage over the bow the obstruction will be diminished, but the surface exposed to this friction will be increased.

If a bow could be so constructed that an arrow could be shot through it just above the handle, the opening must be large enough to admit free pa.s.sage for the feathering as well, and the opening must be contrived so that the 'stele,' true to the point of aim throughout its pa.s.sage through the bow, shall never swerve from the right side of the opening.

CHAPTER IV.

_OF THE STRING, BRACER, AND SHOOTING-GLOVE_

The best bowstrings are all of Belgian make, and cannot be considered of such good quality as they used to be twenty-five years ago. Then the best bowstrings were obtained from a maker at Liege, by name Meeles, the last of his race, who, with his wife, kept most jealously the secret of the manufacture, which had been transmitted through many generations in the one family, and they died childless without communicating it to anyone. Their residence was kept with the windows on the street side constantly barred up, so as to make sure that they could not be overlooked, and they depended entirely for the air and light necessary for their labour on the private garden at the back of the house.

In the choice of a string see that it has three, not two, strands; and care must be taken to avoid those that are too hard and stiff, as they are liable to be brittle and to break very soon. The next thing to be attended to is that the string is smooth and round throughout, and sufficiently increased in bulk at the ends where are the eye and loop.

It cannot be doubted that a quicker cast may be obtained from a _thin string_ than from a _very thick one_; but it will be better to choose strings strong enough in proportion to the strength of the bows to ensure their (i.e. the bows') safety rather than to pay too much regard to this quickness of cast. When the string is chosen its eye must be fitted into the groove of the lower horn of the bow. In order to make _the loop_ at the other end the string must now be applied to the back of the unbent bow, and the first rounded turn of the loop must be made at about three inches from the groove of the upper horn, or two and a half inches in the case of a lady's bow. At about the distance of one inch and a quarter beyond--and one inch in the case of a lady's string--the crown of this rounded turn the string must be sharply bent back, and this sharp bend applied round the string on the other side of the rounded turn. Slip the sharp turn a little further down the string towards the eye, and twist the remaining reversed end of the string three times round the looped part of the string, beginning inwards. The sharp turn must then be pushed back into the first bent position. The eye must now be pa.s.sed over the upper horn, and pa.s.sed far enough down the bow to allow the loop to be pa.s.sed over the lower horn and into its groove, and the loop should be so applied into this groove that the waste end of string shall lie between the sharp turn and the horn (see fig. 16). If the waste end of the string be then knotted firmly, and the remainder cut off, the loop will be finished, and, if successfully managed, will never s.h.i.+ft or stretch when it has once reached its bearings. The virtue in this loop is that it is quite fast and tight when in use, and yet it can be very readily slipped off and opened for readjustment on the same bow, or for application to another bow of different length. By far the neatest finish to a bowstring is the addition of a _second eye_ instead of the _loop_, and this is now very readily done by the bowmakers for their customers at a small additional charge; but every handy archer should learn how to make this second eye for himself. The following method is recommended. When the loop has been correctly adjusted, so that the string, when the bow is braced, is at a suitable distance from the bow (i.e. six inches or so for a man's bow, or five and a half inches for a lady's bow) mark with ink the crown of the rounded turn before mentioned (i.e. the point of the string, not of the waste twisted round the string in the loop nearest to the upper horn). Now unbrace the bow and take off the string. Undo the loop and straighten out the string (see fig. 15). At the distance of one inch and a quarter (one inch is sufficient for a lady's string) from the ink-mark, and on each side of it, tie tight round the string a small piece of fine waxed thread; cut off the waste end of the string at the knot made in finis.h.i.+ng the loop. Keep the part of the string between the two ties well wound up during the whole of the succeeding stages of the manufacture of this part into an eye so as to correct the necessary unwindings. Unwind up to C, fig. 17, completely separate, and straighten out the three strands (1), (2), (3), fig. 17, of the remaining portion of the waste end of the string up to its tie at C. Pa.s.s a small marlinespike or stiletto between each of the three strands of the string, just beyond the other tie at B, and as close to it as possible.

Flatten out the three unwound strands of the waste end fingerwise (fig.

17). Bend (keeping it wound up) the part of the string between the two ties B and C, so as to bring these two ties exactly together, with the separated strands (1), (2), (3) lying across the string at right angles to its worm (see fig. 18). Now insert the middle strand (1), fig. 19 (taking care to cross the worm of the string), with the help of the marlinespike under that strand of the string across which it lay in fig.

18.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 15, FIG. 16, FIG. 17.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 18.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 19, FIG. 20.]

Give the commenced eye a quarter turn to the left (see fig. 20), so that it is seen edgewise, tie C being now out of sight.

Strand (2) now lies across the strand of the string under which strand (1) has just been pa.s.sed, and the next strand of the string. Insert it (2) under this latter strand, and give the eye another quarter turn, showing strand (2) inserted (see fig. 21).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 21.]

Strand (3) as shown in fig. 21 must now be bent to the left across the central upright strand of the string, and pa.s.sed under that strand and brought out and back towards the right again (see fig. 22).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 22.]

The loop will now be an _eye_, as soon as the two ties B and C have been brought close together again, and the three strands, loosened by constant manipulation, have been carefully waxed and wound up again.

From this point there are two methods of proceeding: the one, which will complete the eye so as to resemble the manufactured eye, by winding each waste strand round and round its own corresponding strand; and for this method the waste strands should now be _tapered_ before they are wound in. By the other method each waste strand in turn should be pa.s.sed over the next strand and under the next but one. The waste strands will again occupy alternate positions between the other strands. Wind up and wax the waste strands again carefully. Enough has now been done to secure the safety of the _eye-splice_; but it will be best to splice in once again each of the waste strands; then bind tightly over the waste for about half an inch down the string, and cut off the remaining waste strands.

In order to taper the waste strands, divide each into two equal parts, lengthwise, after the position shown in fig. 22 has been completed, and with a blunt knife fine down each of the two parts gradually till each tapers to nothing at the length of about two and a half inches from the string; now work in as much wax as possible, flattening each of the divided portions in so doing; readjust the divided portions, and wind them carefully together again. The waste ends may then be wound round and round the appropriate strands until they disappear; or the first method of splicing may be continued till they fade off and disappear, so that the finis.h.i.+ng process of binding and cutting off the waste ends may be dispensed with. Don't bind the eye with string, leather, or any other material. If the string was originally sufficiently thicker at this part, its final failure is very unlikely to occur at either of the eyes, and there is a general belief that any _unnecessary clothing_ of the eye interferes with the cast of the string. If the waste strands, _untapered_, be spliced in and in very frequently, the string will be somewhat shortened. A string that is too short--i.e. too far from the bow when braced--cannot be lengthened without altering the loop or remaking the eye, but a string that is slightly too long--i.e. not giving sufficient distance between the string and bow when braced--can be shortened by spinning it up tighter; but care must be taken not to attempt this operation with a hard-cemented, new string, as it will almost certainly prove fatal to the string, which will snap in two at the loose; and no string should be much spun up.