A Journey to America in 1834 Part 9

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH.

Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of everything, the butchers in clean s.h.i.+rts and some with smart collars; vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr.

Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in Canada; and had children.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH.

Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair I scrambled up the wall and read as follows:

Benjamin and } Deborah } Franklin.

Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer.

Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine.

Slept with young Rollanson.

SAt.u.r.dAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH.

Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some conversation with a l.u.s.ty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers'

monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears 12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B.

plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The quant.i.ty, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B.

gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book."

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.

Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to Church, found a nice s.p.a.cious clean place; a poor respectable audience rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined in by the congregation; the prayers simple and un.o.bjectionable, but the sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.

Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to a.s.sist his brother, said 100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some peaches; offered a loan of 100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined.

Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.

This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death.

Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a gla.s.s of water for 9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; took two gla.s.sfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T.

formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for Unitarianism.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.

Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very perpendicular. Paid for pa.s.sage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr.

very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.

Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5 minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for pa.s.sage and dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; one fellow devoured almost more b.u.t.ter at dinner than all Mr.

Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the attendants excepting the driver of the hea.r.s.e were people of colour; two of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with females.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.

James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred.

Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each side raise the frame on which the s.h.i.+p is floated. After dinner at the Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the b.a.l.l.s are put by the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met Webster, he had seen all our pa.s.sengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at Toronto.

SAt.u.r.dAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.

Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J.

Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the sh.o.r.e. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times.

Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs.

D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.

Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at all times to G.o.d. A very respectable looking man but short of enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs.

B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J.

D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T.

desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible.

Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than two or three.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.

Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours.

Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera."

Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight carriages besides the hea.r.s.e; after interment they separated. Mrs. D.

made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.

Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer.

Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; only 7 pa.s.sengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the pa.s.sengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten.

Paid for was.h.i.+ng 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or 2-1/2_d._ each.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.

Pa.s.sed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr.

Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs.

Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quant.i.ties of vinegar; at the same time girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be considered stout.