The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 13

4. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 9-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, ideally even thinner. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle the dough with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough rest for a couple of minutes. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 9-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, ideally even thinner. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle the dough with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough rest for a couple of minutes.

5. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 3-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 3 inches to make 9 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces, separating layers with kitchen towels. Keep the squares covered as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 3-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 3 inches to make 9 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces, separating layers with kitchen towels. Keep the squares covered as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

6. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of the filling on top of each square. Fold one side over the filling, then fold over the opposite side. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlapping them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Continue with the remaining squares and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of the filling on top of each square. Fold one side over the filling, then fold over the opposite side. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlapping them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Continue with the remaining squares and filling.

7. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough, making them firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook, and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough, making them firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook, and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

8. MAKE THE CHILE OIL MAKE THE CHILE OIL: Heat the oil, ground chile, Sichuan pepper, the clove of chopped garlic, the sesame oil, and teaspoon salt in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook for 5 minutes and remove from the heat. Pour the flavored oil into a small bowl, stir in the rice vinegar, and set aside. (You can also make the chile oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 months.) Heat the oil, ground chile, Sichuan pepper, the clove of chopped garlic, the sesame oil, and teaspoon salt in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook for 5 minutes and remove from the heat. Pour the flavored oil into a small bowl, stir in the rice vinegar, and set aside. (You can also make the chile oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 months.) 9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

10. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully and occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen wontons, add them directly to the simmering water. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully and occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen wontons, add them directly to the simmering water. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw before cooking.) 11. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and place them in the large bowl. Drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and place them in the large bowl. Drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

12. Drain the wontons and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the chile oil, sprinkle with the scallion, and serve. Drain the wontons and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the chile oil, sprinkle with the scallion, and serve.

Corn Tamales Stuffed with Stringy Cheese and Poblano Tamales de Elote (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Big handfuls of juicy corn kernels mixed into the batter give tamales de elote tamales de elote a fresh corn texture and a delicate juiciness. Strips of Oaxacan cheese and poblano pepper in the center of these tamales add creaminess and a refres.h.i.+ng fruity flavor. If you prefer to leave out the peppers, the cheese alone is a delightful filling. a fresh corn texture and a delicate juiciness. Strips of Oaxacan cheese and poblano pepper in the center of these tamales add creaminess and a refres.h.i.+ng fruity flavor. If you prefer to leave out the peppers, the cheese alone is a delightful filling.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide).

For the Batter2 large ears of corn or 1 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or Tamale Batter from Masa Harina made with chicken broth teaspoon saltFor the Filling pound fresh Oaxacan cheese or soft mozzarella cheese, sliced into twenty-four 3-inch-long strips2 poblano chiles, cored, seeded, and sliced into twenty-four 3-inch-long stripsFor a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Eight 26-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamalesEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping the corn husks. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping the corn husks.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 1 cups of kernels. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 1 cups of kernels.

3. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Fold the kernels and salt into the batter. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Fold the kernels and salt into the batter.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, strips of cheese and pepper, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, strips of cheese and pepper, the husks, and the ties.

5. Pick out the best 16 husks. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter on top of the overlapping husks. Arrange 3 strips of cheese and 3 strips of pepper on top of the batter, then spoon another 2 heaping tablespoons of batter on top. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 8 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter on top of the overlapping husks. Arrange 3 strips of cheese and 3 strips of pepper on top of the batter, then spoon another 2 heaping tablespoons of batter on top. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 8 tamales.

6. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

7. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales de elote tamales de elote cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so they stay moist and warm.

Leaf-Wrapped Black-Eyed Pea Dumplings Moyin-Moyin (Nigeria) (Nigeria) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These steamed banana-leaf-wrapped dumplings call for you to peel off the papery skins of black-eyed peas. This may sound tiresome, but in fact it's quite easy to do. The result is a batch of savory dumplings that are creamy in texture and, because of the tomato paste, almost salmon-pink in color. These are popular dumplings, sold at markets or directly from stalls, varying according to the addition of shrimp powder or just about any fresh, salted, canned or dried meat or fish. Slices of hard-boiled egg and green peas are often appreciated additions.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Envelope Fold, but you can also use the Diamond in the Square Fold if your banana leaves are brittle or torn.

For the Dumplings1 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours1 large yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e2 teaspoons tomato paste cup fresh or frozen green peas1 red or green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped fine1 teaspoon salt to teaspoon cayenne teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon shrimp powder (optional)4 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and each sliced into 4 roundsFor a.s.semblyTwenty 8-inch prepared banana leaf squares (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 24-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the moyin-moyin moyin-moyinEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Drain the black-eyed peas and place them in a large bowl. Cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Scoop up handfuls of the black-eyed peas and rub them back and forth gently between your palms. They will split apart as you rub them against each other, loosening their skins. Occasionally swirl the black-eyed peas around in the water so that the loosened skins can float to the top and be skimmed off. Keep rubbing until most of the black-eyed peas have been peeled. Then use your fingers to peel off any remaining skins. Drain the black-eyed peas and pick out any obvious bits of skin. Drain the black-eyed peas and place them in a large bowl. Cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Scoop up handfuls of the black-eyed peas and rub them back and forth gently between your palms. They will split apart as you rub them against each other, loosening their skins. Occasionally swirl the black-eyed peas around in the water so that the loosened skins can float to the top and be skimmed off. Keep rubbing until most of the black-eyed peas have been peeled. Then use your fingers to peel off any remaining skins. Drain the black-eyed peas and pick out any obvious bits of skin.

2. Pulse the onion and the tomato paste in a food processor until the onion is finely chopped. Add the peeled black-eyed peas and pulse until the mixture becomes a grainy batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Drizzle in up to cup water, a little at a time, until the batter is just loose enough to spread out evenly within the food processor. Pulse the onion and the tomato paste in a food processor until the onion is finely chopped. Add the peeled black-eyed peas and pulse until the mixture becomes a grainy batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Drizzle in up to cup water, a little at a time, until the batter is just loose enough to spread out evenly within the food processor.

3. Scoop the batter into a medium bowl and stir in the green peas, bell pepper, salt, cayenne, black pepper, and shrimp powder if desired. (You can also make the batter in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) Scoop the batter into a medium bowl and stir in the green peas, bell pepper, salt, cayenne, black pepper, and shrimp powder if desired. (You can also make the batter in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the moyin-moyin, moyin-moyin, review the Envelope Fold. review the Envelope Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the sliced eggs, the banana-leaf squares, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the sliced eggs, the banana-leaf squares, and the ties.

6. Lay flat 1 banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of batter on top of the leaf. Gently press a slice of egg into the batter and top with another tablespoon of the batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages. Lay flat 1 banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of batter on top of the leaf. Gently press a slice of egg into the batter and top with another tablespoon of the batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot and add 2 inches of water to the pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in layers within the basket. Blanket them with any remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot and add 2 inches of water to the pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in layers within the basket. Blanket them with any remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the moyin-moyin moyin-moyin cool and set for about 5 minutes, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm, but they can also be served at room temperature. cool and set for about 5 minutes, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm, but they can also be served at room temperature. Moyin-moyin Moyin-moyin can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen moyin-moyin moyin-moyin, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Leaf-Wrapped Rice Bundles Stuffed with Pork and Beans Banh Tet (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Along with Zhong Zi Zhong Zi (September), this recipe is one of the most challenging in the book. It will test your dexterity to overlap the bamboo leaves, fill them with spoonfuls of partially cooked rice and other ingredients, and then wrap them up as tightly as you can. The snug wrapping keeps these savory dumplings, designed for travel without refrigeration, practically sterile for days. (September), this recipe is one of the most challenging in the book. It will test your dexterity to overlap the bamboo leaves, fill them with spoonfuls of partially cooked rice and other ingredients, and then wrap them up as tightly as you can. The snug wrapping keeps these savory dumplings, designed for travel without refrigeration, practically sterile for days.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Bamboo-Leaf Fold.

For the Filling pound boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of skin and excess fat and cut into 8 equal pieces1 small yellow onion, cut in half and sliced thin1 teaspoons sugar1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 tablespoons fish sauce, preferably from Vietnam cup dried peeled mung beans8 small dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang), cut diagonally into 8 thin slicesFor the Rice2/3 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 1 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 11/3 cups canned, drained and rinsed cups canned, drained and rinsed1 cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or canned coconut milk2 cups medium-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand, rinsed (see Glossary of Ingredients) and soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours1 teaspoon salt2 scallions, sliced into thin ringsFor a.s.sembly30 prepared bamboo leaves (see Glossary of Equipment)Eight 60-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the banh tet banh tetFor Serving1 recipe Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce 1. MARINATE THE PORK 2 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE MARINATE THE PORK 2 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Combine the pork, onion, sugar, black pepper, white pepper, and fish sauce in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours. Combine the pork, onion, sugar, black pepper, white pepper, and fish sauce in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours.

2. MAKE THE MUNG BEAN FILLING MAKE THE MUNG BEAN FILLING: Place the mung beans in a small saucepan. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beans are soft, about 30 minutes. Drain off excess water, if any, and return to the stove. Mash the mixture with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon into a moist, chunky paste. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beans are soft, about 30 minutes. Drain off excess water, if any, and return to the stove. Mash the mixture with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon into a moist, chunky paste. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool.

3. COOK THE BLACK-EYED PEAS AND THE RICE COOK THE BLACK-EYED PEAS AND THE RICE: (Skip this step if using canned black-eyed peas.) Drain the black-eyed peas. Place them in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until they are just tender but not breaking apart, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. (Skip this step if using canned black-eyed peas.) Drain the black-eyed peas. Place them in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until they are just tender but not breaking apart, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

4. Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and place over medium-low heat. Drain the rice. Once the coconut milk is warm, stir in the rice, black-eyed peas, and salt. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil. Stir and cook until all the coconut milk has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the scallions. Scoop this partially cooked rice mixture into a large bowl and set aside to cool. Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and place over medium-low heat. Drain the rice. Once the coconut milk is warm, stir in the rice, black-eyed peas, and salt. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil. Stir and cook until all the coconut milk has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the scallions. Scoop this partially cooked rice mixture into a large bowl and set aside to cool.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the banh tet, banh tet, review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold. The Bamboo-Leaf Fold uses 2 leaves as a platform for the filling and a third leaf as a cover before all 3 leaves are wrapped and folded around the filling. review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold. The Bamboo-Leaf Fold uses 2 leaves as a platform for the filling and a third leaf as a cover before all 3 leaves are wrapped and folded around the filling.

6. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water. Remove and discard the stems and slice the mushrooms into -inch strips. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water. Remove and discard the stems and slice the mushrooms into -inch strips.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the partially cooked rice mixture, the marinated pork, the mung bean mash, mushroom strips, sausage slices, bamboo leaves, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the partially cooked rice mixture, the marinated pork, the mung bean mash, mushroom strips, sausage slices, bamboo leaves, and ties.

8. Pick out the best 24 bamboo leaves. Place 2 leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches. Center 3 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about 4 inches long and 2 inches across or about the size of your palm. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the mung bean mash and place it over the rice. Arrange 4 to 5 slices of the mushroom over the mung bean mash, then place 1 piece of sausage, 1 piece of pork, and some of the onions on top of the mushrooms. Top everything with 3 more rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat, tight rectangular package. Wrap and tie the package 4 or 5 times across the width of the dumpling and at least once vertically to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Place the package on the lined tray and repeat until you have 8 packages. Pick out the best 24 bamboo leaves. Place 2 leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches. Center 3 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about 4 inches long and 2 inches across or about the size of your palm. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the mung bean mash and place it over the rice. Arrange 4 to 5 slices of the mushroom over the mung bean mash, then place 1 piece of sausage, 1 piece of pork, and some of the onions on top of the mushrooms. Top everything with 3 more rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat, tight rectangular package. Wrap and tie the package 4 or 5 times across the width of the dumpling and at least once vertically to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Place the package on the lined tray and repeat until you have 8 packages.

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Stack the packages as evenly as possible in a large pot and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the packages covered. Stack the packages as evenly as possible in a large pot and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the packages covered.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the banh tet banh tet with tongs, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. with tongs, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Banh tet Banh tet can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen banh tet banh tet, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Coconut-Filled Rice Dumplings Modak (India) (India) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The customary dumpling of the lengthy and joyous Ganpati Festival is the supersweet modak. modak. Its richness comes from a filling of coconut, sugar, and raisins. Although the sweetness of the filling may be over-the-top, these dumplings are doughy enough to balance out every bite. Its richness comes from a filling of coconut, sugar, and raisins. Although the sweetness of the filling may be over-the-top, these dumplings are doughy enough to balance out every bite. Modak Modak are often presented in a smooth, garlic-bulb shape that can be difficult to master. Luckily, there is a simpler pear shape that is equally acceptable and much easier to manage. are often presented in a smooth, garlic-bulb shape that can be difficult to master. Luckily, there is a simpler pear shape that is equally acceptable and much easier to manage.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup raw or roasted unsalted sh.e.l.led cashews or pistachios40 cardamom pods or 1 teaspoon ground cardamom1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawed1/3 cup finely crushed jaggery (about 2 ounces) or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup finely crushed jaggery (about 2 ounces) or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup raisins or dried currantsPinch of salt1 teaspoon rose water mixed with cup waterFor the Dough1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed teaspoon salt1 cups white rice flour, preferably from India, plus some extra for dustingFor Cooking and ServingGhee or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed, to coat the steamer basket cup melted ghee for dippingEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: If using raw cashews or pistachios, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Move them immediately into a bowl and cool slightly, then coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using pistachios, remove their papery skins. If using cardamom pods, split them open in a bowl and collect all of the tiny seeds. You will have about 1 teaspoon. If using raw cashews or pistachios, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Move them immediately into a bowl and cool slightly, then coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using pistachios, remove their papery skins. If using cardamom pods, split them open in a bowl and collect all of the tiny seeds. You will have about 1 teaspoon.

2. Heat the ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Mix in the jaggery, then mix in the nuts, cardamom, raisins, and the pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour in the rose water mixture, stir continuously, and cook until most of the liquid has cooked off. The mixture will be sticky and clumpy. Scoop into a bowl and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.) Heat the ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Mix in the jaggery, then mix in the nuts, cardamom, raisins, and the pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour in the rose water mixture, stir continuously, and cook until most of the liquid has cooked off. The mixture will be sticky and clumpy. Scoop into a bowl and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.) 3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the ghee and the teaspoon salt in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Set aside cup of the rice flour and add the remaining 1 cups, all at once, to the boiling water. Stir 2 or 3 times to combine, then immediately remove from the heat. Stir vigorously until all the liquid has been absorbed and the dough is a moist, sticky ball. Scoop the dough into a bowl and allow it to cool slightly. Place the ghee and the teaspoon salt in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Set aside cup of the rice flour and add the remaining 1 cups, all at once, to the boiling water. Stir 2 or 3 times to combine, then immediately remove from the heat. Stir vigorously until all the liquid has been absorbed and the dough is a moist, sticky ball. Scoop the dough into a bowl and allow it to cool slightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl until it is a smooth and manageable ball, 2 to 3 minutes. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved rice flour, a little at a time, until the dough no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough warm by covering it with a towel. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl until it is a smooth and manageable ball, 2 to 3 minutes. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved rice flour, a little at a time, until the dough no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough warm by covering it with a towel.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the modak, modak, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball and dust with flour. Holding the dumpling in the palm of your hand, gently pinch and pull its top until the shape is more like a pear. Place upright on the prepared tray and gently tap down to create a flat bottom or foot so that it can stand without tipping over. Repeat with the remaining filling and dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball and dust with flour. Holding the dumpling in the palm of your hand, gently pinch and pull its top until the shape is more like a pear. Place upright on the prepared tray and gently tap down to create a flat bottom or foot so that it can stand without tipping over. Repeat with the remaining filling and dough.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with ghee. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with ghee. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 15 minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the modak modak to cool slightly. Use a spoon or a small spatula to carefully move them onto a plate. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Use a spoon or a small spatula to carefully move them onto a plate. Cook any remaining modak modak and serve with melted ghee. and serve with melted ghee.

Tapioca b.a.l.l.s Stuffed with Minced Pork and Peanuts Sakoo Sai Moo (Thailand) (Thailand) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 24 24 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Tapioca pearls mixed throughout the dough of the sakoo sai moo sakoo sai moo give it a distinctively b.u.mpy look not seen in any other dumpling. These translucent pearls also make the dumplings intensely chewy, the better to savor their sweet and spicy pork filling. give it a distinctively b.u.mpy look not seen in any other dumpling. These translucent pearls also make the dumplings intensely chewy, the better to savor their sweet and spicy pork filling. Sakoo sai moo Sakoo sai moo can be tricky to a.s.semble because of the soft and unusually k.n.o.bby texture of the dough, so give yourself plenty of time. Cooked can be tricky to a.s.semble because of the soft and unusually k.n.o.bby texture of the dough, so give yourself plenty of time. Cooked sakoo sai moo sakoo sai moo are sticky to the touch, but wrapping them in lettuce leaves makes them much easier to serve and eat. Lettuce also adds a refres.h.i.+ng contrast to the mildly spicy filling. are sticky to the touch, but wrapping them in lettuce leaves makes them much easier to serve and eat. Lettuce also adds a refres.h.i.+ng contrast to the mildly spicy filling.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 medium yellow onion, chopped very fine pound freshly ground pork2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine1 tablespoons finely chopped hard palm sugar or soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 to 2 small Thai red chiles, such as prik kee noo, prik kee noo, cored, seeded, and chopped very fine cored, seeded, and chopped very fine teaspoon freshly ground white pepper cup unsalted roasted peanuts, papery skins removed and nuts chopped coa.r.s.e1 tablespoon fish sauce, preferably from Thailand3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leavesFor the Dough1 cup small tapioca pearls1 cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch), plus some extra for dustingFor the Topping1 teaspoon grapeseed or other neutral oil4 garlic cloves, chopped fine1 to 2 small Thai red or green chiles, such as prik kee noo, prik kee noo, sliced into thin rings sliced into thin ringsFor Cooking and ServingSoft lettuce leaves such as Boston or Bibb to line the serving plate and steamer basket, plus 12 additional leaves, torn in half, for wrappingEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Add the onion and stir occasionally until just soft, about 2 minutes. Add the pork and the 2 cloves of chopped garlic and continue to stir until the pork starts to brown, breaking up clumps of pork as you go, about 4 minutes. Mix in the palm sugar, the chopped red chiles, and the white pepper and cook for 1 minute longer. Mix in the peanuts and fish sauce and continue stirring until the pork is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Scoop the pork mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool completely. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Add the onion and stir occasionally until just soft, about 2 minutes. Add the pork and the 2 cloves of chopped garlic and continue to stir until the pork starts to brown, breaking up clumps of pork as you go, about 4 minutes. Mix in the palm sugar, the chopped red chiles, and the white pepper and cook for 1 minute longer. Mix in the peanuts and fish sauce and continue stirring until the pork is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Scoop the pork mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool completely. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) 2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Boil 1 cups water in a small saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the tapioca pearls. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring continuously. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, and set aside to cool slightly. The cooked tapioca will set and thicken as it cools. The pearls will be partially cooked through with tiny, still-white centers. Boil 1 cups water in a small saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the tapioca pearls. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring continuously. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, and set aside to cool slightly. The cooked tapioca will set and thicken as it cools. The pearls will be partially cooked through with tiny, still-white centers.

3. Add cup of the tapioca flour to the warm tapioca pearls and keep the remaining cup handy. Carefully work the mixture with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. You can work this dough with all the force needed to incorporate the flour, and you will not crush or break apart the pearls. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining tapioca flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Add cup of the tapioca flour to the warm tapioca pearls and keep the remaining cup handy. Carefully work the mixture with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. You can work this dough with all the force needed to incorporate the flour, and you will not crush or break apart the pearls. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining tapioca flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

4. Place the dough on a surface dusted with tapioca flour and knead for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with more tapioca flour if it gets a little sticky. The dough will be soft and very elastic. Place the dough back into the bowl and keep warm by covering it with a towel. Place the dough on a surface dusted with tapioca flour and knead for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with more tapioca flour if it gets a little sticky. The dough will be soft and very elastic. Place the dough back into the bowl and keep warm by covering it with a towel.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the sakoo sai moo, sakoo sai moo, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and dust it with tapioca flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and dust it with tapioca flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape the ball into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide and floppy bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with tapioca flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape the ball into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide and floppy bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with tapioca flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Line a serving plate with lettuce leaves. Line a serving plate with lettuce leaves.

9. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the bottom of the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 10 minutes. Uncover and steam for 2 minutes longer. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the bottom of the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 10 minutes. Uncover and steam for 2 minutes longer.

10. MAKE THE TOPPING MAKE THE TOPPING: While the dumplings steam, heat the 1 teaspoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the 4 cloves of chopped garlic. Cook until the garlic is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and scoop into a small bowl. Mix in the chile rings. While the dumplings steam, heat the 1 teaspoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the 4 cloves of chopped garlic. Cook until the garlic is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and scoop into a small bowl. Mix in the chile rings.

11. Once the Once the sakoo sai moo sakoo sai moo have finished steaming, remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Using a spoon or small spatula, carefully move them to the prepared plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining have finished steaming, remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Using a spoon or small spatula, carefully move them to the prepared plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining sakoo sai moo. sakoo sai moo. Serve with a sprinkle of the garlic and chile mixture and the lettuce leaf wrappers. Serve with a sprinkle of the garlic and chile mixture and the lettuce leaf wrappers.SeptemberWILD GRAPES AND DUMPLINGS.

(United States) BOSTON BROWN BREAD.

(United States) CHICKEN FRICOT WITH DUMPLINGS.

(Canada) CHICKEN AND DUMPLING SOUP.

(United States) BREAD AND SEMOLINA LOAF.

Houskove Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) OAT AND HONEY PUDDING.

(Ireland) GRAHAM POTATO BUNS.

(United States) LAYERED APPLE AND BREAD PUDDING.

(United States) BEEF AND OYSTER STEW WITH SUET DUMPLINGS.

(England) MILD YOGURT SEMOLINA CAKES.

Rava Idli (India) (India) BUCKWHEAT DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH APPLES AND CHEESE.

Vareniki s Yablokami (Russia) (Russia) POTATO DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH SUGAR-STUFFED PLUMS.

vestkove Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) LEAF-WRAPPED RICE PACKAGES STUFFED WITH PEANUTS AND SAUSAGE.

Zhong Zi (China) (China) Wild Grapes and Dumplings (United States) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 5 ( 5 (MAKES ABOUT 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This brilliantly purple dessert is both warming and refres.h.i.+ng. Like the Peach and Berry Grunt (August), this is a dish of simple cakelike dumplings cooked in a fruit stew. Possum grapes or wild Muscadine are ideal, but if you can't find them, Concord grapes are a fine subst.i.tute. Versions of this dumpling dish are found nationwide, especially in Choctaw, Cherokee, and Lenape regions. It can be made with bottled grape juice, but the results are far superior and worth the effort when the dumplings are simmered in freshly squeezed grape juice.

For Cooking4 cups Muscadine or Concord grapes for juicing or 2 cups unsweetened bottled Concord grape juice4 cups Muscadine or Concord grapes for stewing2 tablespoons honey, preferably rawFor the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 tablespoon baking powder teaspoon salt1 tablespoons sugar3 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into bits cup cold milkEquipmentLarge, wide pot or skillet with cover 1. JUICE THE GRAPES JUICE THE GRAPES: If making your own juice, place the grapes for juicing in a blender or a food processor and blend into a thin pulp. Strain the juice through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing down on the pulp with the back of a spoon. Measure out 2 cups of juice and set aside. If the juice measures less than 2 cups, add just enough water to make up the difference. If making your own juice, place the grapes for juicing in a blender or a food processor and blend into a thin pulp. Strain the juice through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing down on the pulp with the back of a spoon. Measure out 2 cups of juice and set aside. If the juice measures less than 2 cups, add just enough water to make up the difference.

2. Place the grapes for stewing and the honey in the large pot. Pour in the grape juice and set aside. Place the grapes for stewing and the honey in the large pot. Pour in the grape juice and set aside.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Place 1 cups of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder, salt, and sugar and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a damp cornmeal. Gradually drizzle in the milk, stirring constantly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 1 cups of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder, salt, and sugar and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a damp cornmeal. Gradually drizzle in the milk, stirring constantly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

4. Place the dough on a floured surface and shape it into a blunt log. Pat the dough into a 4 9-inch rectangle. Working along the 9-inch side, cut the dough every inch. These strips will be quite soft and are best left on the work surface until it's time to put them in the simmering juice. Place the dough on a floured surface and shape it into a blunt log. Pat the dough into a 4 9-inch rectangle. Working along the 9-inch side, cut the dough every inch. These strips will be quite soft and are best left on the work surface until it's time to put them in the simmering juice.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Bring the grapes and juice mixture in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Bring the grapes and juice mixture in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

6. Gently drop the dough strips into the juice, forming a single layer on top of the grapes. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Serve these dumplings with generous amounts of grapes and sauce. Serve as is or with vanilla ice cream. Gently drop the dough strips into the juice, forming a single layer on top of the grapes. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Serve these dumplings with generous amounts of grapes and sauce. Serve as is or with vanilla ice cream.

Boston Brown Bread (United States) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

Equal parts whole wheat flour, rye flour, and cornmeal give this steamed bread its interesting, complex flavor. You can buy this mixture prepackaged, but it's easy enough to make your own. The brown sugar, raisins, and mola.s.ses add a dark sweetness and color. This bread is sweet enough to be a dessert, or it can be used to make traditional tea sandwiches. Slices of leftover Boston brown bread toast beautifully and make great crumbs for parfaits or bread cubes for bread puddings.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling cup graham or whole wheat flour cup rye flour cup coa.r.s.e yellow cornmeal2 teaspoons baking soda teaspoon salt cup b.u.t.termilk2 tablespoons mola.s.ses3 tablespoons light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1/3 cup raisins (optional) cup raisins (optional)For Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basinUnsalted b.u.t.ter or cream cheese for servingEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the graham flour, rye flour, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl, mix together the b.u.t.termilk, mola.s.ses, sugar, and raisins, if desired, until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Set both mixtures aside. Combine the graham flour, rye flour, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl, mix together the b.u.t.termilk, mola.s.ses, sugar, and raisins, if desired, until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Set both mixtures aside.

2. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the brown bread, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the brown bread, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

3. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

4. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

5. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Give the b.u.t.termilk mixture a good stir, pour it into the flour mixture, and stir until combined. Do not overmix. Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the brown bread. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Give the b.u.t.termilk mixture a good stir, pour it into the flour mixture, and stir until combined. Do not overmix. Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the brown bread.

6. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

7. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the brown bread to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with b.u.t.ter or cream cheese. Brown bread can be kept refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the brown bread to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with b.u.t.ter or cream cheese. Brown bread can be kept refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Chicken Fricot with Dumplings (Canada) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This cla.s.sic Acadian dish is like most other chicken and dumpling stew recipes in that it requires dropping spoonfuls of biscuitlike dough onto its simmering surface. What makes it distinctive is the use of fresh savory and lots of potatoes. Traditionally, salt pork goes into the base of fricots, fricots, but if you can't find salt pork, bacon can be subst.i.tuted, although the flavor will be a bit smoky. Summer savory is a fragrant herb in the mint family, but its aroma and flavor are closer to thyme. It has a milder flavor than winter savory and is much more commonly used for cooking. You can find it fresh at specialty food markets, or dried at most supermarkets. but if you can't find salt pork, bacon can be subst.i.tuted, although the flavor will be a bit smoky. Summer savory is a fragrant herb in the mint family, but its aroma and flavor are closer to thyme. It has a milder flavor than winter savory and is much more commonly used for cooking. You can find it fresh at specialty food markets, or dried at most supermarkets.

For the Stew pound salt pork, cut into -inch cubesOne 3- to 4-pound chicken, skin on, cut into serving pieces1 medium yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour5 black peppercorns2 large carrots, sliced into 1-inch rounds3 medium baking potatoes, such as russet, cut into 1-inch cubes1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh summer savory leaves or 1 teaspoon driedFor the Dumplings1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour2 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt2 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into bits cup cold water 1. MAKE THE STEW MAKE THE STEW: Place the salt pork in a large, wide pot over medium heat and stir occasionally until enough fat has melted off to coat the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, in one layer and do not turn until the undersides are golden brown, about 8 minutes. Turn and brown the other sides, about 6 minutes longer. Move the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs to a bowl, leaving behind the bits of salt pork and oily fat. Stir the onions into the fat and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture turns a deep caramel brown, about 8 minutes. Place the salt pork in a large, wide pot over medium heat and stir occasionally until enough fat has melted off to coat the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, in one layer and do not turn until the undersides are golden brown, about 8 minutes. Turn and brown the other sides, about 6 minutes longer. Move the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs to a bowl, leaving behind the bits of salt pork and oily fat. Stir the onions into the fat and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture turns a deep caramel brown, about 8 minutes.

2. Pour in 6 cups water and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits off the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the chicken pieces and any drippings to the pot. Add the peppercorns. Cover and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Pour in 6 cups water and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits off the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the chicken pieces and any drippings to the pot. Add the peppercorns. Cover and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

3. Take out the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs and place it in a bowl to cool. Add the carrots, potatoes, and savory to the simmering stew, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 30 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Take out the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs and place it in a bowl to cool. Add the carrots, potatoes, and savory to the simmering stew, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 30 minutes longer, stirring occasionally.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin. Pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place the pieces back in the bowl, and discard the bones. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin. Pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place the pieces back in the bowl, and discard the bones.