The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 9

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the cooked chicken, the tomatillo sauce, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the cooked chicken, the tomatillo sauce, the husks, and the ties.

8. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier.

9. Pick out the best 16 husks. Lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Arrange a generous forkful of the chicken mixture and then a spoonful of the sauce on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the batter. Fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. Lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Arrange a generous forkful of the chicken mixture and then a spoonful of the sauce on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the batter. Fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales.

10. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

11. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 12. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.

TAMALE BATTER FROM FRESH MASA.

MAKES 3 3 CUPS CUPS.

cup nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening2 cups Fresh Masa (recipe follows) teaspoon salt teaspoon baking powder cup Chicken Broth with Mexican Flavors or Pork Broth with Mexican Flavors, lukewarmEquipmentElectric hand mixer 1. Place the lard in a large bowl and whip with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and creamy, about 5 minutes. Place the lard in a large bowl and whip with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and creamy, about 5 minutes.

2. Slowly add about half of the corn masa while continuing to whip at medium speed. Once combined, whip in the salt, baking powder, and remaining masa. Slowly add about half of the corn masa while continuing to whip at medium speed. Once combined, whip in the salt, baking powder, and remaining masa.

3. Slowly drizzle in the broth as you continue whipping the batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Once all the broth has been added, raise the mixer speed to high and continue to mix until the batter is light and fluffy, about 10 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. You can also make the batter in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 day. Slowly drizzle in the broth as you continue whipping the batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Once all the broth has been added, raise the mixer speed to high and continue to mix until the batter is light and fluffy, about 10 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. You can also make the batter in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 day.

FRESH MASA.

MAKES ABOUT 2 2 POUNDS POUNDS (6 (6 CUPS CUPS).

2 tablespoons slaked lime (calcium hydroxide or "cal")1 pounds dried field corn kernels (about 4 cups), sorted and rinsedEquipmentColander with small holes (about 2mm) 1. Fill a large pot with 2 quarts water, stir in the slaked lime, and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the corn kernels, which will immediately turn a brighter yellow. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the kernels to soak for at least 3 hours, but no more than 8 hours. Drain and return the kernels to the pot. Fill a large pot with 2 quarts water, stir in the slaked lime, and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the corn kernels, which will immediately turn a brighter yellow. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the kernels to soak for at least 3 hours, but no more than 8 hours. Drain and return the kernels to the pot.

2. Place about a third of the kernels in a medium bowl and add enough water to cover them by a couple of inches. Rub the kernels against each other between your palms to work off their skins. Swirl the bowl around occasionally, encouraging the loosened skins to float to the top of the water so they can be collected or poured out of the bowl. Add fresh water and continue rinsing and rubbing the kernels until most of them have been peeled. Drain the skinned corn and place it in a large bowl. Repeat with the remaining kernels. Place about a third of the kernels in a medium bowl and add enough water to cover them by a couple of inches. Rub the kernels against each other between your palms to work off their skins. Swirl the bowl around occasionally, encouraging the loosened skins to float to the top of the water so they can be collected or poured out of the bowl. Add fresh water and continue rinsing and rubbing the kernels until most of them have been peeled. Drain the skinned corn and place it in a large bowl. Repeat with the remaining kernels.

3. Pinch off the tougher, pointy tip from the end of each kernel. Rinse the kernels in a colander under cool running water and wipe them dry as best you can between two kitchen towels. Pinch off the tougher, pointy tip from the end of each kernel. Rinse the kernels in a colander under cool running water and wipe them dry as best you can between two kitchen towels.

4. Place a third of the kernels in a food processor and process into a grainy meal, about 5 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Sift the meal through the colander into a bowl, scooping out the coa.r.s.er bits and placing them in a small bowl. Repeat with the remaining kernels. Scoop the collected coa.r.s.er bits back into the food processor, process, and sift again. Place a third of the kernels in a food processor and process into a grainy meal, about 5 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Sift the meal through the colander into a bowl, scooping out the coa.r.s.er bits and placing them in a small bowl. Repeat with the remaining kernels. Scoop the collected coa.r.s.er bits back into the food processor, process, and sift again.

5. Measure out the amount of masa you need for your recipe. You can also make the masa in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Frozen masa must be thawed before using. Measure out the amount of masa you need for your recipe. You can also make the masa in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Frozen masa must be thawed before using.

TAMALE BATTER FROM MASA HARINA.

MAKES 3 3 CUPS CUPS.

1/3 cup nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at room temperature cup nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at room temperature1 cup masa harina teaspoon baking powder teaspoon salt1 cups Chicken Broth with Mexican Flavors or Pork Broth with Mexican Flavors, lukewarmEquipmentElectric hand mixer 1. Place the lard in a small bowl and whip with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and creamy, about 5 minutes. Place the lard in a small bowl and whip with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and creamy, about 5 minutes.

2. Combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Pour in the broth and whip at medium speed until all the liquid has been absorbed. Continue whipping as you slowly add the lard, a spoonful at a time. Combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Pour in the broth and whip at medium speed until all the liquid has been absorbed. Continue whipping as you slowly add the lard, a spoonful at a time.

3. Once the last spoonful of lard has been added, raise the mixer speed to high and continue to mix until the batter is light and fluffy, about 10 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl as you go. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. You can also make the batter in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 day. Once the last spoonful of lard has been added, raise the mixer speed to high and continue to mix until the batter is light and fluffy, about 10 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl as you go. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. You can also make the batter in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 day.

Pounded Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Strawberries Ichigo Daif.u.ku (j.a.pan) (j.a.pan) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Daif.u.ku is a cla.s.sic j.a.panese confection made with is a cla.s.sic j.a.panese confection made with mochi mochi and sweetened adzuki bean paste. and sweetened adzuki bean paste. Ichigo daif.u.ku Ichigo daif.u.ku includes the inspired addition of whole fresh strawberries. The combination of fresh berries, bean paste, and includes the inspired addition of whole fresh strawberries. The combination of fresh berries, bean paste, and mochi mochi is an unusual juxtaposition of flavors and tastes like an unusually mellow nut paste and berry candy. The sweetest element, by far, is the bean paste, but because it's sandwiched between the is an unusual juxtaposition of flavors and tastes like an unusually mellow nut paste and berry candy. The sweetest element, by far, is the bean paste, but because it's sandwiched between the mochi mochi and the fruit, it doesn't overwhelm the way some bean paste fillings can. You will need to work with small strawberries for the dumplings to end up the right size. Cutting large berries in half or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g them to size will only make them slippery and impossible to wrap the bean paste around. and the fruit, it doesn't overwhelm the way some bean paste fillings can. You will need to work with small strawberries for the dumplings to end up the right size. Cutting large berries in half or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g them to size will only make them slippery and impossible to wrap the bean paste around.

Because fresh mochi mochi is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children. is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup dried adzuki beans, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours1/3 cup sugar cup sugar teaspoon salt12 small strawberries (about 1 inch around), stemmed and caps removedFor the Mochi1 recipe Mochi Mochi (Pounded Rice Dumplings) dough, divided into 12 equal pieces and rolled into b.a.l.l.s, preferably made while the bean paste is cooling, but no more than 1 hour in advance (Pounded Rice Dumplings) dough, divided into 12 equal pieces and rolled into b.a.l.l.s, preferably made while the bean paste is cooling, but no more than 1 hour in advance cup potato starch (katakuriko) for dusting and coating the dumplings 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Drain the beans and place them in a small saucepan. Fill the pot with enough water to cover the beans by about 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beans are soft and just beginning to split apart, 45 to 60 minutes. Drain the beans and set them aside. Drain the beans and place them in a small saucepan. Fill the pot with enough water to cover the beans by about 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beans are soft and just beginning to split apart, 45 to 60 minutes. Drain the beans and set them aside.

2. Place the sugar and salt in the same saucepan, pour in cup water, place over medium heat, and stir until all the sugar has dissolved. Place over medium heat and continue stirring until all the sugar has dissolved. Mix in the beans and simmer for 5 minutes. Place the sugar and salt in the same saucepan, pour in cup water, place over medium heat, and stir until all the sugar has dissolved. Place over medium heat and continue stirring until all the sugar has dissolved. Mix in the beans and simmer for 5 minutes.

3. Turn the beans and all of the cooking liquid into a food processor (don't rinse the saucepan) and process until the mixture becomes a grainy paste, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop the bean paste back into the same saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir continuously until the paste begins to turn into a doughy ball, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a wide bowl, break it up a bit, set aside, and allow it to cool to room temperature. (You can also make the bean paste in advance and keep it wrapped tightly in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) Turn the beans and all of the cooking liquid into a food processor (don't rinse the saucepan) and process until the mixture becomes a grainy paste, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop the bean paste back into the same saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir continuously until the paste begins to turn into a doughy ball, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a wide bowl, break it up a bit, set aside, and allow it to cool to room temperature. (You can also make the bean paste in advance and keep it wrapped tightly in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the ichigo daif.u.ku, ichigo daif.u.ku, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

5. Have ready the cooled bean paste, the strawberries, the Have ready the cooled bean paste, the strawberries, the mochi mochi, and a tray dusted with potato starch.

6. Pinch off a small piece of bean paste and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Pat it out into a 2-inch round. If it's a little crumbly, put it back into the bowl and work in a little water. Hold the round in the palm of your hand and place a strawberry in the center. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the bean paste around and over the strawberry until it is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Place on the prepared tray and repeat the a.s.sembly steps with the remaining bean paste and strawberries. Cover with a towel and set aside. Pinch off a small piece of bean paste and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Pat it out into a 2-inch round. If it's a little crumbly, put it back into the bowl and work in a little water. Hold the round in the palm of your hand and place a strawberry in the center. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the bean paste around and over the strawberry until it is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Place on the prepared tray and repeat the a.s.sembly steps with the remaining bean paste and strawberries. Cover with a towel and set aside.

7. Pick up one ball of Pick up one ball of mochi mochi and use your thumbs to shape the ball into a bowl about 2 inches deep. This will be a wide and floppy bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a wrapped strawberry in the center of the and use your thumbs to shape the ball into a bowl about 2 inches deep. This will be a wide and floppy bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a wrapped strawberry in the center of the mochi mochi bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the mochi mochi around and over the wrapped strawberry until it's surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Reroll into a ball, dust with some potato starch, and place back on the tray. Repeat with the remaining around and over the wrapped strawberry until it's surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Reroll into a ball, dust with some potato starch, and place back on the tray. Repeat with the remaining mochi mochi and wrapped strawberries. Serve immediately or keep them covered at room temperature for no more than 5 hours. and wrapped strawberries. Serve immediately or keep them covered at room temperature for no more than 5 hours.

Leaf-Wrapped Rice Packages Stuffed with Chicken and Bamboo Shoots Nuo Mi Ji (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 4 4 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The name nuo mi ji nuo mi ji means "glutinous rice chicken," because the rice is thought of as a moist, chewy extension of the chicken pieces it surrounds. This dumpling often includes bamboo shoots and whatever meaty extras are around. Mushrooms, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, and hard-boiled eggs are favorite additions, but any of these things can be left out or subst.i.tuted. You must, however, use dried lotus leaves to wrap means "glutinous rice chicken," because the rice is thought of as a moist, chewy extension of the chicken pieces it surrounds. This dumpling often includes bamboo shoots and whatever meaty extras are around. Mushrooms, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, and hard-boiled eggs are favorite additions, but any of these things can be left out or subst.i.tuted. You must, however, use dried lotus leaves to wrap nuo mi ji, nuo mi ji, because the leaves infuse a dry, tealike flavor into the rice. because the leaves infuse a dry, tealike flavor into the rice.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Lotus-Leaf Fold.

For the Marinade1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil1 tablespoon soy sauce1 tablespoon oyster sauce1 teaspoon cornstarch1/8 teaspoon sugar teaspoon sugar teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFor the Filling2 chicken thighs with skin, cut in half across the bone, or 4 chicken wings4 small dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in 1 cups hot water for 30 minutes1 teaspoon cornstarch10 to 12 small or medium dried shrimp, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil pound boneless pork loin, chopped very fine or coa.r.s.ely ground medium fresh bamboo shoot, trimmed and sliced thin, or one 8-ounce can sliced bamboo shoots, drained2 tablespoons rice wine (optional)1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang), cut diagonally into 4 equal pieces1 large hard-boiled egg, quarteredFor the Rice2 cups short-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from China or j.a.pan, rinsed (see Glossary of Ingredients)2 teaspoons saltFor a.s.sembly8 prepared lotus-leaf halves (see Glossary of Equipment)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslinLarge skillet with a cover 1. PREPARE THE FILLING PREPARE THE FILLING 1 1 TO TO 8 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE HOURS IN ADVANCE: Whisk together all the marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the chicken and turn until coated evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Whisk together all the marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the chicken and turn until coated evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

2. STEAM THE RICE STEAM THE RICE: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the rice into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Sprinkle the 2 teaspoons salt over the rice. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 25 minutes. Every 10 minutes or so, drizzle cup water over the rice, mix gently, cover again, and continue steaming. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the rice into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Sprinkle the 2 teaspoons salt over the rice. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 25 minutes. Every 10 minutes or so, drizzle cup water over the rice, mix gently, cover again, and continue steaming.

3. Remove the pot from the heat. The rice will be slightly undercooked. Move the rice to a large plate or tray, spread it out to cool, and then divide it into 8 equal piles. Remove the pot from the heat. The rice will be slightly undercooked. Move the rice to a large plate or tray, spread it out to cool, and then divide it into 8 equal piles.

4. COOK THE FILLING COOK THE FILLING: Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Remove and discard the stems and set the mushroom caps aside. Measure out cup of the soaking liquid, stir in the cornstarch, and set aside. Drain the shrimp and set aside. Have the marinated chicken ready. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Remove and discard the stems and set the mushroom caps aside. Measure out cup of the soaking liquid, stir in the cornstarch, and set aside. Drain the shrimp and set aside. Have the marinated chicken ready.

5. Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over high heat. Shake off excess marinade from the chicken pieces (set the marinade aside for later use), place them in the pan, and immediately stir until the chicken just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the pork, shrimp, mushrooms, and bamboo shoot and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring constantly. Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over high heat. Shake off excess marinade from the chicken pieces (set the marinade aside for later use), place them in the pan, and immediately stir until the chicken just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the pork, shrimp, mushrooms, and bamboo shoot and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring constantly.

6. Add the rice wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Mix the mushroom and cornstarch liquid into the chicken marinade, pour it over the chicken mixture, and stir until the sauce begins to simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Divide the filling evenly among 4 small bowls. Each bowl should have a mushroom and a piece of chicken. Add the rice wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Mix the mushroom and cornstarch liquid into the chicken marinade, pour it over the chicken mixture, and stir until the sauce begins to simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Divide the filling evenly among 4 small bowls. Each bowl should have a mushroom and a piece of chicken.

7. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the nuo mi ji, nuo mi ji, review the Lotus-Leaf Fold. review the Lotus-Leaf Fold.

8. Have ready the prepared lotus leaves, the preportioned rice and the filling, sausage, and the hard-boiled egg. Also have a large plate to place the dumplings once they have been a.s.sembled. Have ready the prepared lotus leaves, the preportioned rice and the filling, sausage, and the hard-boiled egg. Also have a large plate to place the dumplings once they have been a.s.sembled.

9. Lay flat 2 of the leaf halves, smooth side up. Center 1 portion of rice on one of the leaf halves. Moisten your hands with water and pat the rice into a 6-inch round patty. Spoon a bowl of filling onto the rice. Nestle a piece of sausage and egg into the filling. Pick up another portion of rice and form another 6-inch round patty as best you can. Place this patty on top of the filling, creating a loose, slightly messy sandwich. Use your hands to pack the pile inward just gently enough to neaten the edges. Lay flat 2 of the leaf halves, smooth side up. Center 1 portion of rice on one of the leaf halves. Moisten your hands with water and pat the rice into a 6-inch round patty. Spoon a bowl of filling onto the rice. Nestle a piece of sausage and egg into the filling. Pick up another portion of rice and form another 6-inch round patty as best you can. Place this patty on top of the filling, creating a loose, slightly messy sandwich. Use your hands to pack the pile inward just gently enough to neaten the edges.

10. Fold one of the longer sides of the leaf snugly over the pile of rice and filling. Fold the opposite side over just as snugly. Fold over the 2 ends as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Center this package, seam side down, on the second leaf half. Using the same folding pattern, wrap the package as tightly as you can. Keep this bundle folded side down on your plate to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Repeat the a.s.sembly steps until you have 4 bundles. Fold one of the longer sides of the leaf snugly over the pile of rice and filling. Fold the opposite side over just as snugly. Fold over the 2 ends as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Center this package, seam side down, on the second leaf half. Using the same folding pattern, wrap the package as tightly as you can. Keep this bundle folded side down on your plate to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Repeat the a.s.sembly steps until you have 4 bundles.

11. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the bundles, seam side down, in the basket. They can be wedged against each other if the s.p.a.ce in the steamer is tight. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the bundles, seam side down, in the basket. They can be wedged against each other if the s.p.a.ce in the steamer is tight. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes.

12. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and let the nuo mi ji nuo mi ji cool slightly. Remove the outer leaves (unless you are freezing the dumplings), place the dumplings seam side up on a plate, and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the leaves only just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. cool slightly. Remove the outer leaves (unless you are freezing the dumplings), place the dumplings seam side up on a plate, and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the leaves only just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Nuo mi ji Nuo mi ji can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen nuo mi ji, nuo mi ji, allow them to thaw before steaming. allow them to thaw before steaming.JuneFLATTENED RICE DUMPLINGS WITH GRATED COCONUT AND ANISE SUGAR.

Palitao (Philippines) (Philippines) LEAF BREAD, A FRESH CORN "TAMALE"

(United States and Canada) TARO b.a.l.l.s IN A SWEET COCONUT SOUP.

Bua Loi Phuak (Thailand) (Thailand) CANARY PUDDING WITH LEMON CURD.

(England) BLACK SESAME ROLL-UPS.

Hei Zi Ma Juan (China) (China) LEMONY LENTIL-CHARD SOUP WITH BULGUR DUMPLINGS.

Kibbet Raheb (Lebanon) (Lebanon) FISH RAVIOLI WITH A THINNED CREAM SAUCE.

Ravioli di Pesce (Italy) (Italy) STICKY RICE DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH PORK AND SHRIMP.

Banh It Tran (Vietnam) (Vietnam) RICE AND TAPIOCA DUMPLINGS TOPPED WITH SHRIMP AND BEAN PASTE.

Banh Beo (Vietnam) (Vietnam) PORK TAMALES WITH GREEN OLIVES AND JALAPEnO.

Tamales de Puerco (Mexico) (Mexico) THE ARM OF THE QUEEN TAMALE.

Brazo de la Reina (Mexico) (Mexico) LEAF-WRAPPED RICE BUNDLES STUFFED WITH CHICKEN AND PEANUTS.

Juanes de Arroz (Peru) (Peru) Flattened Rice Dumplings with Grated Coconut and Anise Sugar Palitao (Philippines) (Philippines) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These small oval dumplings are made of sweet rice flour and water. This easy dough can be made in a matter of seconds, for dumplings that are gooey, chewy, and surprisingly fragrant. A topping of grated coconut and anise sugar adds a necessary sweetness. Many recipes use sesame seeds instead of anise, but the licorice flavor of anise provides a much more unexpected flavor.

For the Dumplings1 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from the Philippines or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting2/3 cup warm water cup warm waterFor the Coating1 cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawed2 teaspoons anise seeds or 1 tablespoon sesame seeds2 tablespoons sugarEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the cooked dumplingsMortar and pestle 1. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

2. Fill a large pot halfway with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

3. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Spread the grated coconut out on a large plate and have another plate ready to hold the dumplings once they've been coated. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Spread the grated coconut out on a large plate and have another plate ready to hold the dumplings once they've been coated.

4. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Gently flatten and shape it between your hands into an oval patty about inch thick, place it on the prepared tray, and continue with the remaining dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Gently flatten and shape it between your hands into an oval patty about inch thick, place it on the prepared tray, and continue with the remaining dough.

5. COOK AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS COOK AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS: Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

6. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking.

7. Working quickly, remove one dumpling from the bowl, and if it is at all dry, dampen its surface with wet fingers to ensure an even coating. Place it on the grated coconut, gently press both sides into the coconut, then place on the other plate. Repeat with the remaining dumplings and set aside. Working quickly, remove one dumpling from the bowl, and if it is at all dry, dampen its surface with wet fingers to ensure an even coating. Place it on the grated coconut, gently press both sides into the coconut, then place on the other plate. Repeat with the remaining dumplings and set aside.

8. Toast the anise seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a bowl to cool, then grind in the mortar with the pestle. Mix together the ground anise seeds and the sugar in a small bowl. Serve the Toast the anise seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a bowl to cool, then grind in the mortar with the pestle. Mix together the ground anise seeds and the sugar in a small bowl. Serve the palitao palitao at room temperature with a sprinkling of anise sugar. at room temperature with a sprinkling of anise sugar.

Leaf Bread, a Fresh Corn "Tamale"

(United States and Canada) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Leaf bread, sometimes called Iroquois leaf bread, includes no fat and is made only from freshly cut corn and a little cornmeal. Once the corn has been pulped and mixed with the cornmeal, the batter is scooped back into the husks, wrapped into small packages, and steamed. Serve these dumplings with melted b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of salt for an appealing snack or side.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide).

For the Dumplings6 large ears of corn with husks2/3 cup coa.r.s.e yellow cornmeal cup coa.r.s.e yellow cornmealFor a.s.semblyTwelve 20-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the leaf breadFor Serving4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before servingEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 24 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat dry, and set aside. Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 24 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat dry, and set aside.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large board or a towel-lined tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large board or a towel-lined tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels.

3. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour into a large bowl and add half of the cornmeal. Continue mixing as you add more cornmeal, a little at a time, until the batter is stiff enough just to hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour into a large bowl and add half of the cornmeal. Continue mixing as you add more cornmeal, a little at a time, until the batter is stiff enough just to hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the leaf bread, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings. Before a.s.sembling the leaf bread, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the 24 husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the 24 husks, and the ties.

6. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center about cup of batter on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 12 packages. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center about cup of batter on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 12 packages.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in flat layers inside the basket. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in flat layers inside the basket. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the leaf bread cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with melted b.u.t.ter and a sprinkle of salt. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the husks just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Leaf bread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen leaf bread, allow it to thaw before steaming. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the leaf bread cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with melted b.u.t.ter and a sprinkle of salt. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the husks just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Leaf bread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen leaf bread, allow it to thaw before steaming.

Taro b.a.l.l.s in a Sweet Coconut Soup Bua Loi Phuak (Thailand) (Thailand) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 8.

Bua loi phuak, like like Onde-Onde Onde-Onde (March), is made out of a rice flour dough that's been combined with a mashed root vegetable to give these dumplings a softer texture and a subtle fruity flavor. It takes only about 15 minutes to roll up two hundred of these small dumplings, and they don't need to be strictly equal in size. Taro can be found at many well-stocked Chinese grocery stores and Asian food markets. Look for the large root, not the smaller, goose eggsized root. (March), is made out of a rice flour dough that's been combined with a mashed root vegetable to give these dumplings a softer texture and a subtle fruity flavor. It takes only about 15 minutes to roll up two hundred of these small dumplings, and they don't need to be strictly equal in size. Taro can be found at many well-stocked Chinese grocery stores and Asian food markets. Look for the large root, not the smaller, goose eggsized root.

For the Dumplings1 pound taro, peeled and quartered2 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from Thailand, plus some extra for dustingFor the Coconut Soup6 cups fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or two and a half 14-ounce cans coconut milk mixed with 2 cups water pound hard palm sugar or cup soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)Pinch of salt2 fresh or frozen pandan leaves, each folded in half and tied into a knot for easier handling, or 1 1/8 teaspoon pandan extract (optional) teaspoon pandan extract (optional)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer potPotato ricer 1. STEAM THE TARO STEAM THE TARO: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the taro in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam until the taro is fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat, carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the taro to cool slightly. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the taro in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam until the taro is fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat, carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the taro to cool slightly.

2. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: While the taro is steaming, pour the coconut milk into a medium pot. If using hard palm sugar, chop it into small pieces. Add the palm sugar, salt, and pandan leaves to the coconut milk and bring to a very gentle simmer over medium-low heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. Crush apart any bits of sugar with the back of the spoon. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil, or else it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start over. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved and set aside. While the taro is steaming, pour the coconut milk into a medium pot. If using hard palm sugar, chop it into small pieces. Add the palm sugar, salt, and pandan leaves to the coconut milk and bring to a very gentle simmer over medium-low heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. Crush apart any bits of sugar with the back of the spoon. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil, or else it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start over. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved and set aside.

3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Cut the taro into small chunks and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Add 1 cups of the rice flour to the taro, keeping the remaining cup handy. Rub with your fingers until the mixture is well combined and looks like a coa.r.s.e meal. Pour in cup water and work the mixture with your hands into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Cut the taro into small chunks and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Add 1 cups of the rice flour to the taro, keeping the remaining cup handy. Rub with your fingers until the mixture is well combined and looks like a coa.r.s.e meal. Pour in cup water and work the mixture with your hands into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

4. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour.

5. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about inch around. Sprinkle with rice flour if it gets sticky. Place the ball on the prepared tray and continue with the remaining dough. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about inch around. Sprinkle with rice flour if it gets sticky. Place the ball on the prepared tray and continue with the remaining dough. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside.

6. Fill a large bowl halfway with cold water. Fill a large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the cold water for 1 minute, drain, and move them to a large bowl. Cook, cool, and drain the second batch of dumplings and place them in the bowl. Fill a large bowl halfway with cold water. Fill a large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the cold water for 1 minute, drain, and move them to a large bowl. Cook, cool, and drain the second batch of dumplings and place them in the bowl.

7. Bring the coconut soup back to a gentle simmer over low heat, add the dumplings, and cook for 2 minutes to warm through. Remove from the heat, remove the pandan leaves, and serve. Bring the coconut soup back to a gentle simmer over low heat, add the dumplings, and cook for 2 minutes to warm through. Remove from the heat, remove the pandan leaves, and serve.

Canary Pudding with Lemon Curd (England) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

There is a large variety of lemon puddings from England, but the canary pudding is simple to make, exceptionally lemony, and cooks up flawlessly each time. Lining the basin with thin slices of lemon gives this pudding a lacy and glistening cap once it is unmolded. If you want to skip making the curd, you can place a large spoonful or two of lemon marmalade in the bottom of the basin (unlined with lemon slices) before pouring in the batter.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Lemon Curd1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon grated zest cup sugar2 tablespoons ( stick) cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into 4 equal piecesFor the Dumpling6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature cup sugar3 large eggs, at room temperature3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon grated zest1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon freshly grated nutmegPinch of saltFor a.s.sembly and CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 large lemon for decorating the top of the pudding (optional)Equipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch lengths of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE LEMON CURD MAKE THE LEMON CURD: Whisk the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, and sugar in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not be touching the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Whisk vigorously at all times until the mixture is thick and creamy, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cold b.u.t.ter a piece at a time. Mix in the lemon zest and let cool slightly. Cut out a round of parchment paper and press it onto the surface of the curd so it will not form a skin. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (You can also make the lemon curd in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 days. Place a round of parchment paper on top of the curd to prevent it from forming a skin.) Whisk the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, and sugar in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not be touching the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Whisk vigorously at all times until the mixture is thick and creamy, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cold b.u.t.ter a piece at a time. Mix in the lemon zest and let cool slightly. Cut out a round of parchment paper and press it onto the surface of the curd so it will not form a skin. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (You can also make the lemon curd in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 days. Place a round of parchment paper on top of the curd to prevent it from forming a skin.) 2. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Whisk together the room-temperature b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl until creamy. Whisk in the 3 eggs, one at a time, until the mixture is light and frothy, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the lemon juice and zest. Whisk together the room-temperature b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl until creamy. Whisk in the 3 eggs, one at a time, until the mixture is light and frothy, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the lemon juice and zest.

3. Combine the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt in a large bowl. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg mixture and fold until smooth, then fold in the second half of the flour mixture. Combine the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt in a large bowl. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg mixture and fold until smooth, then fold in the second half of the flour mixture.

4. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

5. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

6. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it's three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it's three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low for a gentle simmer.

7. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. If using lemon slices to decorate the pudding, cut the peel off the lemon, then slice the lemon into -inch rounds. Center the largest round of lemon on the bottom of the basin. Arrange 4 or 5 lemon rounds around the centered slice. The surrounding lemon slices should be partly resting on the bottom of the basin and partly climbing up against the basin's side, creating a "cap" for the pudding. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. If using lemon slices to decorate the pudding, cut the peel off the lemon, then slice the lemon into -inch rounds. Center the largest round of lemon on the bottom of the basin. Arrange 4 or 5 lemon rounds around the centered slice. The surrounding lemon slices should be partly resting on the bottom of the basin and partly climbing up against the basin's side, creating a "cap" for the pudding. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

8. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, like a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, like a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with a generous topping of lemon curd. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with a generous topping of lemon curd. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup.