Modern Machine-Shop Practice Part 170

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2515.]

REBORING CYLINDERS IN THEIR PLACES ON THE ENGINE.--When a cylinder bore becomes so worn out of cylindrical truth, or becomes grooved or cut, as it is termed, as to require to be rebored, it may be done with the cla.s.s of boring bar shown in Fig. 2513. It consists of a bar having journal bearing in castings which bolt on to the two ends of the cylinder in place of the cylinder covers. On the bar is fitted a sliding head carrying the cutting tool and fed by a screw pa.s.sing within the bar. To operate the bar and simultaneously the feed screw, the hand-wheel and worm-wheel is employed, giving rotary motion to the worm-wheel which is fast upon the bar. Fast also upon the bar is the inside one of the two small gears shown, which operates the inner of the two small gears shown above it. The outer of the upper gears engages with the outer of the lower ones, the latter being fast upon the feed screw. In the inner pair the lower is of largest diameter, but in the outer pair the upper is the largest, and as a result the outer of the lower rotates the fastest, and hence rotates the feed screw, causing the tool to feed to its cut.

The proportions of these wheels are, first or inside pair, lower wheel 36, upper 37; outside pair, upper 37, lower 36, so that the feed per bar rotation is in amount that produced by moving the outer lower gear a part of a rotation equal to twice the pitch of the teeth, the cutting tool motion depending upon the pitch of the feed screw.

To enable the rapid traverse of the head from end to end of the bar, the upper pair of gears are mounted on an eccentric stud, so that by operating the small handle shown they may be disengaged from the lower feed gears and the feed screw operated direct by means of the handle shown.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2516.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2517.]

In setting such a bar to a cylinder bore it is to be remembered that two methods may be employed. First, the bar may be set to accommodate the cylinder bore, truing it out with as light a cut as possible. In this case the bore of the cylinder may be made out of line with the guide bars and with the centre of the length of the crank-pin journal.

In the second the bar may be set with a view to bore it out in line with the guide bars and crank pin, and then taking as much cut as will be necessary to true the bore.

The latter plan is the preferable of the two, unless the repairs are so extensive as to require the guide bars to be redressed and the main bearing renewed, in which case those parts requiring to be re-aligned, the cylinder may be rebored with a view to take out as little metal as possible, and the other parts set to suit the new bore.

To set the bar true to the guide bars and crank pin, and thus retain the axis of the new bore true with that of the original bore, the bar should be set true with the recessed counterbore at each end of the cylinder, which being unworn remains true.

If, however, only one cylinder cover can be conveniently taken off, the piece of wood will require to fit in the counterbore at the open end, and in the cylinder bore at the closed end of the cylinder; hence we make it large enough for the counterbore, and after having removed the ridge at that end we cut the length of the wood down to fit the cylinder bore, whereas if we made our rest to fit the bore at first we should require to use wedges to make it fit the counterbore. In some cases holes might be bored near the ends of the rest or fulcrum to serve the same purpose as the notches.

The method of using the sc.r.a.per, Fig. 2516, is shown in Fig. 2514, which latter represents an engine cylinder. At B is shown the wooden rest or fulcrum; and at C the lever sc.r.a.per operating on the ridge at the closed end of the cylinder. The lever C is worked on the pulling stroke only, and is so held that the edge presents a keen sc.r.a.ping tool which will cut very freely. The fulcrum B should be adjusted as closely as convenient to the work, so as to obtain good leverage for the sc.r.a.per.

It should be moved in its position, so that during the roughing out only the lower notches in the fulcrum are used.

A plan was lately resorted to on the White Star Line of steams.h.i.+ps for re-boring a cylinder. The cylinder heads and piston follower were taken off; a groove was cut from the outer end of the cylinder along the bore as far and as deep as the counterboring was required to be done. The counterboring was then accomplished in the manner shown in Fig. 2515.

The junk ring was provided with a small tool holder, such as is used upon boring bars. The tool was fastened in the holder while its cutting edge was in the groove referred to, cut as deep and as far up the cylinder as the counterboring was to be. To the junk ring was fastened, by two long bolts, a wooden lever extending above and across the cylinder. Two men walked around pus.h.i.+ng the lever, and when the tool at each revolution arrived at the groove, a fresh cut was taken by moving the engine so as to raise the piston the necessary amount. It is obvious that the piston head may be steadied and held true in the bore of the cylinder by means of a few wooden wedges. Thus we see that in this operation the junk ring was made to serve as a boring bar head, the men furnis.h.i.+ng the necessary rotative motion, the feed motion to the tool being obtained by advancing the piston toward the end of the cylinder where the work was being done.

The ridges which in time form at the two ends of a cylinder bore are usually removed by the hand-boring bar shown in Fig. 2513, but they may, in cylinders of from 12 to 24 or 30 inches in diameter, be readily cut out by hand as follows:--

Take a bar of steel 9/16 inch square and 3 feet 6 inches long; forge it at one end to the shape shown in Fig. 2516, in which from A to B is the forged end. This end must then be heated along its entire length to a cherry red, and dipped vertically into cold water to harden it; after which it must be ground from A to B on all four faces square across, and as nearly of an even curve as can be ascertained by the eye. Next take a piece of hard wood--oak, for instance--about an inch thick and 3 inches wide; cut it to such a length that when placed upright its ends will wedge tightly into the counterbore of the cylinder. Into the edges of this piece of wood saw out a series of notches, making its finished appearance to be such as shown in Fig. 2517. The object of fitting its length tightly into the counterbore of the cylinder is as follows: If both cylinder covers are off or can be conveniently taken off, the ridge can be operated upon at each end of the cylinder; hence our piece of wood, which is merely an improvised rest to act as a fulcrum for the bar sc.r.a.per shown at the top of the figure, would require to fit into the counterbore.

CHAPTER XXIX.--ERECTING ENGINES AND MACHINERY.

In engines having suspended guide bars, it is not uncommon to set those bars by the working parts of the engine, instead of by lines. This is an advantage when the parts of the engines are not taken down, and, if care is taken, will make a true and smooth working job; but otherwise, it is likely to introduce errors in the lining of the engine, which throw it out of proper line, and cause a great deal of friction.

The proper method of setting the bars depends upon the condition of the engine as to wear. Suppose, for example, that a new piston head has been put in, then, if the gland is new also, or is a good fit to both the piston rod and the bar of the stuffing box, the bars may be set as follows:--

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2518.]

Place the piston at the back end of the cylinder, and put the cross head and guide blocks in proper place on the rod. Put up the bottom guide bars so that they just touch the cross-head guides. Now, in adjusting these bottom bars there are two essential points: first, that the plane of their upper surfaces shall stand parallel with the axial line of the main shaft, and secondly, to place the upper surface parallel with the axial line of the cylinder (it being of course a.s.sumed that the cylinder and crank shaft are in proper line). The first of these essential points will be attained when a spirit-level, placed truly along the bore of the cylinder, shows the bubble to stand in the same position in the tube, as it does when placed upon and along the bar. The second will be attained when a spirit-level, placed across the bars, as in Fig. 2518, at A, shows the bubble to stand the same as it does when the level is placed on a parallel part of the shaft, as in the figure at B. When the bars are thus temporarily set, the liners, or pieces of iron, may be fitted to the proper thickness, so that the gland will pa.s.s in and out of the stuffing box easily by hand, no matter in what position the piston may be in the cylinder.

To get the thickness of these liners, take wedges made of iron, wood, or lead, and insert the thin end between the faces of the bars and those of the supports, forcing the wedges in sufficiently to leave a mark upon them. By chalking the faces of the wedges they will exhibit the marks more plainly. The wedges should be inserted at each end and on both sides of the bar, for one bar at a time, the liners being got out a trifle too thick so as to allow some for fitting.

If the liners require to be very thin and are difficult to hold in the vice without springing, take a piece of soft wood faced true, and grip it in the vice, and fasten the liner on it by means of brads driven in around the edge of the liner.

When the four liners are ready place them in position between the bars and their seatings. Bolt the bars firmly in position, wipe them clean and test them lengthwise with the spirit-level to ascertain if they are parallel with the cylinder bore, and place the level across the bars at each end to test parallelism with the engine shaft, as in Fig. 2518, and, having noted where further adjustment is necessary, put marking upon the bars and move the cross head back and forth to ascertain how much the respective liners require reducing. If the gland is a fit upon the piston rod and in the stuffing box, moving the gland in and out of the stuffing box will be an admirable test of the guide-bar adjustment.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2519.]

The straight-edge should also be applied to test if the surfaces of the bars lead true one to the other; thus, in Fig. 2519, A and B are the bars and E the straight-edge, which by being pressed firmly to the surface of A discloses that the surface of A is not in line with B, because if it were so the straight-edge would meet the face of B as in Fig. 2519, where the straight-edge F pressed to the surface of C leads true to the surface of the bar D. All four of the bars require testing in this manner. If the seatings for the bars or the liners are not made flat and of equal thickness, or if from any other cause the bars do not bed properly upon the liners, then bolting up the bars will spring them as shown in Fig. 2520, in which, at A, is shown a bar sprung in the bolting up, because the liners fit at the ends B C only; while at E is shown a bar sprung or bent because the liners fit at the ends D D only.

In either case the cross head would be forced to travel in a curve, bending the piston rod, and inducing much friction. The way to test the bars in this respect is, after the above operations, and before loosening the bolts, place a long straight-edge lengthwise along each bar and move it laterally at one end. If it swings from the centre the bar is rounding, while if it shuffles across first at one end and then at the other the bar is hollow in its length and we must find at which end of the bar this spring exists. To do this, slightly slacken the bolt or bolts at one end and again apply the straight-edge, if the spring is removed the error lies in the bedding of the liner at that end. If not removed, retighten the bolts at that end and slacken those or that at the other end, and again apply the straight-edge, and thus may it be determined how much of the spring is due to each of the liners, and this must be remembered and allowed for in filing the liner to its final adjustment. Before putting the liners in a second time it is better to give them a light coat of marking to show where they bear.

At each trial of the bars the spirit-level and straight-edge should be applied and the cross head should be moved back and forth to show by the bearing marks how the cross-head guides fit to the bars. These marks are a great deal finer test than any spirit-level adjustment, hence the last part of the fitting should be performed with strict reference to the bearing marks upon both the bars and the cross-head guides as well as upon the liner, the cross-head f.l.a.n.g.es being adjusted and fitted at the same time as the face fitting.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2520.]

To set the top bars place the cross head in the middle of its stroke, and place them upon the cross-head guides. Then, with the wedges applied as before, ascertain the required thickness of the respective liners one at a time, leaving them, as previously, a trifle too thick, and testing them while fitting by marking placed upon their faces. The top bars may be entirely adjusted from the contact marks left by the cross-head guides when moved along the bars, thus dispensing with the use of the straight-edge and spirit-level.

As the bolts supporting the bottom bars often require to be loosened to get the top bars off, pieces of wood may be placed beneath the bottom bars to retain them in position when the bolts are loosened. These pieces must be removed during the testing, for if left so as to wedge the bars they may spring them, and thus mislead in the adjustment. After the top bars are adjusted the whole bearing surfaces should be oiled, and the cross head pulled back and forth by hand without the use of a lever, providing the size of the piston does not exceed about eighteen inches diameter. The bars when set true should be clamped to their seatings and the holes reamed out to receive the proper bolts, and, finally, mark each bolt, bar, and liner to its place.

When the bars, tested with the straight-edge and spirit-level as described, show true, if the gland will pa.s.s freely in and out of the stuffing box with the cross head at any part of its stroke, the guide bars are set.

In this operation let it be noted that the close fit of the piston to the cylinder bore and of the gland to the stuffing box is alone depended upon as a guide whereby to so set the guide bars that the axial line of the piston rod and its plane of motion shall be in line with the centre of the crank shaft.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2521.]

Suppose, however, that the piston head is a new one, and the gland is worn a loose fit to the stuffing box, then setting the bar to the gland would produce the result shown in Fig. 2521, in which the dotted line A A is a line or cord stretched axially true with the cylinder bore, and coincident with the centre of the pillow block at B. The gland being a loose fit permits the piston rod to fall below its proper level, and the surface of the bars, if set by the gland only, without using the spirit-level, would be set true to the full line C C, and therefore out of true line. If the bars are set by spirit-level true to the length of the cylinder bore, the gland becomes useless as a guide to set the bars by. It is a not uncommon practice, when the gland has play, to insert in the stuffing-box bore, at the bottom, a piece of tin or sheet bra.s.s, equal in thickness to one-half the amount to which the gland is too small, or to insert a similar piece beneath the piston head if it is too small. As a rule, however, there will be at least as much play between the piston rod and the gland bore as between the gland and the stuffing-box bore; hence, if there is any play, it is better to discard the use of the gland altogether.

The proper method of setting guide bars by a stretched line is as follows:--

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2522.]

The cord or line is set true to the cylinder bore, and coincident with the centre of the pillow block, as at A A in Fig. 2521, and the two bottom bars are put up in line horizontally with the axial line of the crank shaft, and at a distance below the stretched line equal to one-half the height of the guides for the cross head, as in Fig. 2522, in which A represents the stretched line, B, B the bottom bars, C C a straight-edge, and D a piece of wire whose length from point to point is equal to one-half the height or thickness of the guide blocks. The width apart of the bars is set to suit the width apart of the f.l.a.n.g.es of the guide blocks on the cross head, by means of a square. The square is applied in the following manner: On a straight-edge mark two lines A and D, Fig. 2523, a distance apart equal to the distance between the f.l.a.n.g.e edges of the cross-head guides. Midway between A and D mark the line C; place the straight-edge across the bars as shown, and when the edge of a square, placed on the straight-edge, coincides with C and the stretched line, and the marks A and D coincide with the edges of the bars, the latter are set true, and will come right for distance apart, and distance from the centre line, supposing the f.l.a.n.g.e edges of the cross-head guides to be equidistant from the centre of the length of the cross-head journal. If, however, such is not the case, the width from A to C and from C to D must be made to suit, C representing the centre of the length of the cross head journal, D the f.l.a.n.g.e on one guide and A the f.l.a.n.g.e on the other guide. Here it may also be remarked that, if the thicknesses of the cross-head guides vary, or if they are not central to the axial line of the cross-head journal, the bars must be set for distance from A in Fig. 2523, to suit the error, because in that figure the straight-edge is supposed to stand parallel to the axial line of the shaft, as it is also in Fig. 2522, the aim in both cases being to so set the bars that the cross-head journal shall stand parallel with the crank shaft.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2523.]

It is the liability of variation in the thickness of the guide blocks, and of their not being central to the cross-head journal, that const.i.tutes the disadvantage of setting the bars by lines, it being obvious that the bars must be either set to suit any errors in the guides, or those errors must be eliminated before setting the bars. The top bars must be set parallel to the bottom ones, at a distance from the bottom ones equal to the thickness of the guide blocks, and parallel to one another. It is preferable to set the top ones with the cross head and guides in place, observing all the precautions as to springing them given in the case of the bottom bars.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2524.]

The bars thus set will be in line with the crank axle, but unless the piston accurately fits the cylinder bore, they will not long remain in line with the line of motion of the piston rod. For example, Fig. 2524 shows a piston head too small for the cylinder bore, the guides fitting the bars properly, and the gland and stuffing box fitting the piston rod; the piston will be suspended in the cylinder, its overhanging weight being supported by the guides B, the gland, and packing ring.

This would cause friction and rapid wear of the gland bore and guide surfaces in a direction parallel to the line C, which would gradually let the piston fall to the bottom of the cylinder bore, touching at the end of D first. In some engines provision is made to adjust the piston to take up its wear, which is, it will be seen, a great advantage.

THE HEATING AND POUNDING, OR KNOCKING, OF ENGINES.--The heating of any part of an engine occurs from one of two causes, viz., either the fit of the parts is too close, inducing undue friction, or the parts are not in line.

When the former is the cause the remedy is to ease the fit. If the parts are not in line, the heating may also be remedied by loosening the fit of the parts; but this will often induce a pound or knock, hence the true remedy is to properly align the parts.

The location of a pound may be discovered by placing a piece of metal wire between the teeth, and resting the other end of the wire upon each end of the cylinder, guide bars, and bearings of the main shaft, repeating the operation in each place, and the sense of feeling will distinctly indicate the location of the knock, by imparting a more severe shock to the teeth when the vicinity of the knock is approached.

The most prominent location of the causes of a pound are, first, in the crank pin, from causes to be hereafter explained, and from its wearing oval at the cross-head journal; and second, at the ends of the cylinders, or the ends of the guide bars, because of a ridge forming there as the wear proceeds.

A crank pin cannot wear oval if the bra.s.ses are kept adjusted to fit it, because in that case the bra.s.s bore must wear it round; but if there is any play it wears oval, because the pressure of contact between the journal and the bra.s.s bores is least when the pin is at and near the points of dead centre, and the most when it is at and near half stroke.

The cross-head pin wears oval because the pressure between the pin and its bearing is in a line with the connecting rod, and there is but little wear on the pin in a direction at right angles to the rod.