Copper Work Part 5

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIGURE 28.]

Invert bowl and handle and lay them upon a level block of charcoal, as shown at Figure 28. Four or five wire nails or pieces of iron wire forced into the charcoal keep the handle and bowl together. The borax is applied and sufficient solder to make a good joint. Use no more solder than is necessary, as it will have to be removed by filing and the less filing that is done about such a joint the better the work will be.

After the exercise has cooled, it may be pickled, washed and dried.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 39. PORRINGER]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 40. PORRINGER HANDLES]

While the heat is being applied for soldering, the bowl is at the same time annealed and becomes so soft that it is easily bent out of shape.

The bowl of course must be hardened again; this is done by placing it on an anvil that conforms to the outline of the bowl and hammered lightly over the surface. The handle is also treated in the same way.

Any necessary filing or finis.h.i.+ng is now done and the porringer is ready to be polished.

If we choose, the handle may be riveted on, or it may be made of the same piece as the bowl by allowing enough metal where the handle is to be, to be bent back when the bowl is raised into shape.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 41.]

TRAYS OR PLATES.

Trays or plates may be made by working the bowl part over an anvil or by driving it into a sand bag until the required depth is obtained, or a form may be turned out of a block of wood and the metal driven into it.

After the bowl part has been shaped it may be placed on the pitch block and the outline trued up with a chasing tool. The edge of the tray or plate may be decorated either by piercing, embossing, etching, or enameling.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Chapter VIII.

INK POT.

This exercise is carried out as follows: A form is first raised like the lower part of the pot inverted, which is nothing more than a bowl so far. A hole with a diameter a little less than the diameter of the ink well is then sawed with a piercing saw in the bottom of this bowl, as at A. After this a circular piece of metal is cut equal in diameter to the top of this bowl plus 1/4 of an inch, and soldered on G. By making this piece 1/4 inch greater than the diameter of the bowl, the soldering process becomes much easier. After the soldering is finished, the projecting edges may be filed off to the edge of the bowl. The bowl is then inverted so that it rests on its greatest diameter H, and it becomes an ink pot.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIGURE 29. Dapping tools in use.]

The cover, J, is made by taking a circular piece of metal and raising the sides in the same way as in the bowl except that the design calls for the sides at right angles to the base. The curve is obtained by placing it on a sand bag and driving it out from the inside to the required height. From a strip of copper 20 gauge and 3/16 inch wide, C, make a ring, D, equal in diameter to the inside of the cover. Solder the ends of the ring together and, after shaping it over a circular stake, fit and solder it to the base, as shown in the section at E.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 42. INK POT]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 43.]

This keeps the cover in place. The k.n.o.b, K, on the cover is made of two hemispheres, L, by use of the dapping block and tools, Figures 7 and 29.

The two pieces are soldered together, filed or finished about the joint, and soldered to the cover, F. After dipping the different parts in the pickle, then was.h.i.+ng them in clean water, and doing a little filing here and there about the joints to remove surplus solder, the ink pot is ready for finis.h.i.+ng. This may be done by polis.h.i.+ng, bronzing, or oxidizing.

The ink well proper should be made so that it may be removed. It should be of gla.s.s or some other material easily cleansed.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 44. INK POT]

SEALING WAX SET.

THE WAX POT.

The wax pot is raised into shape as described in Chapter VI on raised forms. Instead of cutting the top off level, a nose is formed as shown at A, Plate 45, which will pour well. A handle is designed, sawed out, and riveted on at the position indicated at B.

THE LAMP.

The body of the lamp is made by raising a bowl to conform with the design; after cutting a hole in the bottom it is inverted, C, and the bottom is soldered on at D. A shallow cup is raised, E, a hole cut in the bottom to allow for the lamp proper, and soldered to the body. Legs as shown at F, and held together by a strip, H, are riveted to the side of the body at G; on these the wax pot rests. The lamp proper or alcohol well, which is filled with asbestos, is raised with the edges turned out, as at N, which hold it in place as shown in the section at J. The part at K serves as a burner and is placed loosely in the cup, E, allowing its removal at any time.

SEAL.

A monogram, letter or design of some sort must first be decided on. When this has been done, the design is transferred and scratched on a piece of 22 or 24 gauge copper. If the design has a right and wrong to it, the reverse should be transferred to the metal so that, when stamped, the right side will appear. The copper is then placed on the pitch and when cool enough to work upon, the lines are followed with a chasing tool, sinking them to the required depth. Care must be taken to avoid sharp edges or any undercutting, if the seal is to free itself easily from the wax. A handle for the seal may be made of wood as shown on the plate; the seal is cut and attached as shown at Section on L. M.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 45. SEALING WAX SET]

WATCH FOB.

There are many ways of making watch fobs. A very simple one is made as follows: First make a drawing of the fob with some suitable pendant as at A, Plate 46. The pendant design is next transferred to a piece of 12 gauge copper, then sawed out and filed into shape. This must be done with perhaps more care than on larger work as it is to be more closely scrutinized. The parts of the fob must be made to conform with the width of the ribbon that is to be used. A bar must be made for the top, wide enough for the ribbon to be pa.s.sed through and fastened. This bar is made by cutting a slot in a piece of metal of the same gauge as the pendant, or by bending a piece of wire around a piece of metal about 1/16 of an inch thick and the width of the ribbon, making the ends meet in the centre of one of the long sides. If more than one of these pieces is needed, the wire is wound around the metal as many times as there are pieces required and sawed apart. The ends are then bent to come in line with each other and soldered. The piece is again placed over the metal and, with a rawhide hammer, worked into shape. The links that connect the bar and the swivel are made as all links are made. Take a piece of iron or steel wire the size required and also a piece of copper; place one end of the steel wire and one end of the copper wire in a vise so that the steel wire stands vertical. Then wind the copper wire around the steel wire spirally with as many turns as there are links required.

Now take it out of the vise and slip it off the steel wire, which leaves it in the shape of a spring. Hold it with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and, resting it against the bench pin, saw the links off with a fine saw one at a time until there are as many as needed.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 46. WATCH FOBS]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 47.]

[Ill.u.s.tration]

One of these links is soldered to the bar that holds the ribbon and one to the top of the pendant; the others are linked together to form the short chain at the top. To connect the pendant to the ribbon, two larger links are needed which are made in the same way as the small ones. All the links may be soldered or not. The links that are soldered to the bar and to the pendant should be filed flat a little to make the point of contact greater. This insures a more secure joint. When soldering such small pieces the charcoal block is indispensable, for depressions are easily made in it where necessary. The parts are placed on the block in position and a small mouth blow-pipe is used; with this the flame can be more delicately applied.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

When the different parts are completed, they are pickled, rinsed, dried, and polished, and then put together with the ribbon.

Fobs are sometimes made entirely of metal as B, Plate 46. In this slots are sawed in three or more bars of metal which are linked together with links made from the same thickness metal as the bars. The pendant and the swivel are also connected with the same kind of links.

[Ill.u.s.tration]