The Solomon Islands and Their Natives Part 22

[205] Spanish leagues, 17 to a degree, all through the narrative.

[206] I have not been able to find this name in any maps or charts.

[207] In the maps I have examined there is no bay of this name given.

"At this time," he writes, "I inquired of the pilots as to our position; but I only provoked their obstinacy: and we went on our voyage sailing across the ocean to discover land. We noticed the flight of the birds that pa.s.sed us in the morning and evening, and whence they came, and whither they went towards the setting sun. All this was no certain guide, as some flew north and others south; and there was nothing to justify our pursuing the flying-fish which abounded in those seas." It is right that I should here allude to the importance attached by the voyagers of this period to the flight of birds which had often guided them to the discovery of new lands. It was for this reason, it will be remembered, that Columbus swerved from his westerly course when approaching the American Continent.

Gallego soon began to lose confidence in the opinion of the Lord President, because pursuing their course along the same parallel of 15 they failed to observe any signs of land. On the 12th of December, being in the meridian of the harbour of La Navidad (a port on the Pacific coast of Mexico, in lat. 19 12' N., long. 104 46' W.), there was a consultation between Gallego and the other pilots, when their lat.i.tudes were found to agree, but the dead reckoning of the pilots was greater.

At length, on the 16th of the month, it was resolved by the Chief-Pilot to leave this parallel and head more to the northward, as they were now 620 leagues rather more than less from Peru and there were no signs of their approaching land.

Accordingly the course was altered; and for four days they ran west-by-north reaching the lat.i.tude of 13, and accomplis.h.i.+ng 166 leagues. During the 20th and 21st of December they steered north-west for 65 leagues, keeping a good look-out for land, but to no purpose. On the 22nd, after steering to the north-west-by-west for 30 leagues, they reached the parallel of 11. They then coursed north-west until the 26th, which was St. Stephen's Day, having gone by their reckoning 95 leagues and attaining, as their observations showed, a lat.i.tude rather under nine degrees (nueve grados escasos). It is worthy of note that in the daily record, which was at this time kept by Gallego of the course and distance and of the lat.i.tude obtained by observation, it usually happens that the computed lat.i.tude is considerably less than that observed.[208] In this journal, however, the lat.i.tudes are all those of observation except where it is otherwise mentioned. During the 27th and 28th of December they stood to the west-north-west for 60 leagues; and on the two following days they steered west-by-north for 62 leagues, reaching the lat.i.tude of 6. It is here recorded that the needle was deflected a third of a point to the north-west. On the last day of the year they sailed 30 leagues to the west, experiencing strong currents.

[208] This circ.u.mstance was, probably, due to a strong southerly drift.

Hitherto no signs of land had been observed, and, in consequence, symptoms of uneasiness showed themselves amongst the crews. As they sailed along, they were led in their imaginations to believe that they were always on the point of making the land; but no land appeared. "The pilots told me," writes Gallego in his journal, "that I was the only person who was not disheartened after having sailed so many leagues without seeing land: and when I told them that they would suffer no ill and that, with the favour of G.o.d, they would see the land at the end of January, they all kept silent and made no reply."

The 1st of January, 1567, found the Spanish voyagers steering west along the parallel of 6; and in accordance with the opinions of his fellow pilots, Gallego kept this course until the 7th, traversing in the time about 125 leagues.[209] They now experienced unsettled weather, the wind s.h.i.+fting to the north and subsequently to the north-east. Although steering west-by-south, they did not change their lat.i.tude as much as they expected; and, on the 10th, after accomplis.h.i.+ng 30 leagues on this course during the past three days they found their lat.i.tude in 6.

During the 11th and 12th with a very favourable wind they sailed 55 leagues to the west on the same parallel. Heavy rain-squalls here overtook them; and they ran along under easy sail.

[209] For one day, Sat.u.r.day the 3rd, there is no record in the Journal of the distance run. To allow for this omission, I have taken 18 leagues as being the average daily run during this week.

"On this day," writes Gallego, "they signalled from the "Almiranta" (the general's s.h.i.+p) to ask where the land should be. I replied that it lay, in my opinion, 300 leagues away; and that at all events we should not sight it until the end of the month. At this time some of the people began to doubt whether we should ever see the land. But I always told them that, if G.o.d was with them, it would be His pleasure that they should not suffer ill." During the 13th they steered west 25 leagues and found themselves in the parallel of 6. On the following day they ran in the same direction for 30 leagues, experiencing much rain and varying winds. Their water supply was failing, and the minds of many were the more depressed; for these reasons they ran on with eased sheets and did not shorten sail.

But the long-expected land was near, and I will permit Gallego for the time to tell his own story. "On the Thursday the 15th of January, we had heavy showers of rain and such thunder and lightning as we had not seen in all the voyage. We were distant from the land of Peru, on the course which we had steered, 1450 leagues. In the following[210] morning we ran with a light wind 15 leagues south-west-by-west, and were in the lat.i.tude of 6. A seaman went to the top and discovered land in the shape of a small island, which appeared on the port hand to the south-west-by-west. We were about six leagues from it, because being a low island it could not be seen at a greater distance. Keeping away, we reached it at sunset. This island is low and level. It has many reefs around it, and has quite a bay of the sea in the middle of it. After we had arrived, I found the lat.i.tude to be 6. We were eager to send a boat in; but, however, it was thought best to await the arrival of the 'Almiranta' which was much behind us.

[210] The word "following" has been added by me, since from the subsequent remarks of Gallego, it is evident that this land was sighted on the 16th.

"In the meantime seven canoes full of people started from the island.

Some turned back to the sh.o.r.e and the remainder came off to the s.h.i.+p.

But when they saw so many persons, they returned to the beach and made great bonfires. That night they put up flags, seemingly for the protection of the island. We were not able to determine whether they were mats of palm-leaves or of cotton, they were bleached so white.[211]

The people in the canoes were naked and of a tawny hue. When the 'Almiranta' arrived, we agreed that no boats should land until the next day, as it was then evening. And when it dawned, it blew so strong from the north-west that we drifted a quarter of a league to leeward of the island. I wished to reach it, but could not, as the wind was so strong that we could carry no sails. I advised that, if we beat up to reach the island with the wind so strong and contrary, the s.h.i.+ps might be broken in pieces (on the reefs); that it would not be wise to run the risk of losing all our lives for an island so small; and that seeing that the island was inhabited, the rest could not be far away. Although being so near to this island, we could not get bottom with 200 fathoms."

[211] Mats of very fine quality are manufactured in many of the Pacific islands.

The decision of Gallego naturally caused much discontent amongst the crews. "The soldiers murmured"--thus the Journal continues--"because they were unwilling to leave this island, notwithstanding that they would run the chance of losing their lives. Being weary of the voyage, they took no pains to conceal their displeasure. But I cheered them and consoled them with the a.s.surance that they would meet with no misfortune, and that with the grace of G.o.d, I would give them more land than they would be able to people; for this island (as I pointed out to them) was not more than five or six leagues in size. I gave it the name of the Isle of Jesus, because we arrived at it on the day after that which we accounted the 15th of January."[212]

[212] It is scarcely possible to identify this island with any of the islands marked in the latest Admiralty charts. _Vide_ Note III.

of the Geographical Appendix.

As the Spanish voyagers were now approaching the scene of their future discoveries, their course becomes of peculiar interest to the historical geographer.[213] Continuing their voyage on the 17th of January, they had before them a long and tedious pa.s.sage, having to contend with contrary winds and being swept north and south in turns by the currents.

On the 23rd, they were in the lat.i.tude of 6, and on the 28th in 5. At length on Sunday the 1st of February, when they were according to their reckoning 165 leagues from the Isle of Jesus, they discovered two leagues away[214] some banks of reefs with some islets in the middle of them. "These shoals"--as described by Gallego--"ran obliquely from north-east to south-west. We were not able"--so he writes--"to get their extremity within our range of sight; but as far as we could see them they extended more than fifteen leagues. We gave them the name of 'Los Bajos de la Candelaria,' because we saw them on Candlemas Eve: and I took the lat.i.tude near them, when we lay east and west with their centre, and found it to be 6." On referring to the present Admiralty charts, it will be noticed that the name "Candelaria Reef," is applied to an atoll lying about eighty miles to the north of the large island of Isabel in the Solomon Group and named "El Roncador" by Maurelle the Spanish navigator in 1781. Now, seeing that this atoll is not more than six miles across, it cannot possibly be identical with the extensive reefs which are above described by Gallego under the name of the Candelaria Shoals. As shown in the appendix,[215] it is highly probable that these shoals are the same with those which lie about 35 miles to the north of the Roncador Reef, where they const.i.tute an atoll fifty miles in width which was discovered by the Dutch navigators Le Maire and Schouten in 1616, and was named "Ontong Java" by Tasman in 1643.

[213] I would direct the nautical reader to Note V. of the Geographical Appendix which refers to Gallego's observations of lat.i.tude in this group. He will thus be saved some confusion in comparing the Spanish lat.i.tudes with those of the present charts.

[214] Thus the distance of these shoals from the Isle of Jesus would be probably about 167 leagues in all. Figueroa gives the distance as 160 leagues.

[215] _Vide_ Note IV. of the Geographical Appendix.

Leaving these shoals, they steered south-west, expecting to sight land, which could not have been, in the opinion of Gallego, more than fifty leagues distant. During the night, however, they had to heave-to on account of the heavy weather; and on the following day, which was the day of our Lady of Candlemas, they experienced the same weather and were obliged to take in all sail. During the next day, which was the 4th of February, the weather improved; and steering at first west-by-north they subsequently stood to the south-west; and as night approached they shortened sail, in the event of there being other reefs and shoals such as those they had already pa.s.sed. The prevailing winds had been north-west; but on the following day the wind went round to the west and fell very light. For four days they had been unable to take observations on account of the thick weather. On the 5th,[216] their lat.i.tude was found in 7 8', from which Gallego inferred that in those four days they had drifted fifteen leagues to the south-by-west. They now made sail and headed north.[217] (?)

[216] There is apparently an error in the journal with reference to this date, since the 6th is omitted altogether.

[217] The subsequent remarks relative to the course show that there is here an error in the M.S., or in the original journal.

"This day," writes Gallego, "was Sat.u.r.day, the 7th of February, and the 80th day since we set out from Callao, the port of the City of the Kings. In the morning I ordered a seaman to go aloft to the top and scan the south for land, because there seemed to me to be in that quarter an elevated ma.s.s; and the seaman reported land. The land soon became visible to us; and a signal of our discovery was made to the 'Almiranta'

which was half a league from the 'Capitana' (Gallego's vessel). Every one received the news with feelings of great joy and grat.i.tude for the favour which G.o.d had granted them through the intercession of the Blessed Virgin, the Glorious Mother of G.o.d, whom we all believed to be our mediator; and the 'Te Deum laudamus' was sung."

They were distant from the land, when they first saw it, about 15 leagues. It is described in the journal as "very high." Turning the s.h.i.+ps' heads in that direction, after they had gone 3 or 4 leagues, they discovered much more land belonging to the same island which appeared to be a continent. They did not get up to it until the evening of the next day, which was Sunday the 8th of February.

"Shortly after we arrived," continues Gallego in his narrative, "many large and small canoes came off to see us, displaying signs of amity.

But they did not dare to come alongside the vessels; and as we approached the land, they kept away. However the General threw them some coloured caps, and being thus a.s.sured they came alongside the s.h.i.+p. The boat was launched, and in it went Juan Enriquez with eight musketeers and target-men (rodeleros) to see if they could find a port to anchor in, and also to search for the place whence the canoes had come. The rest of the natives became more confident, and some of them came on board the s.h.i.+p. As they behaved well, we gave them things to eat and drink; and they remained on board until it began to grow dark, when they got into their canoes and went ash.o.r.e. And those who had gone away in the boat, seeing that it was getting dusk, returned without having found any port. As soon as it was dark we stood out to sea, and the natives in the canoes returned to their homes. They told us that for the sake of friends.h.i.+p we should have gone with them, and that they would have entertained us and given us plenty to eat.

"We stood to windward that night with a light wind; and the currents carried us more than three leagues to the west-north-west, bringing us over some reefs on which we might have been lost as the sea was breaking around them. Finding ourselves in seven fathoms of water, we at once made course to stand clear of them. We remained under easy canvas until it dawned, when we saw that the currents had carried us right upon the shoals; and as the sea broke around us, we made more sail. I hailed the 'Almiranta' to make the best of her way out of her position among the shoals; and we accordingly stood away until we found a sufficient depth."

Juan Enriquez was now dispatched in the boat to find a harbour for the s.h.i.+ps; but he was deterred by the sight of all the reefs and returned to the s.h.i.+p. He was ordered by the General to go back again and carry out his search, and "I told him"--adds Gallego--"that it was necessary for the safety of the s.h.i.+ps that he should find a port without delay." The position of the Spanish vessels was a truly critical one; and only those who have been similarly situated in a sailing s.h.i.+p in unsurveyed waters, studded with unknown coral reefs, can realise how anxious the moment was.

"Committing ourselves to G.o.d"--thus Gallego writes--"I sent a man aloft to the fore-top, and placed another on the bowsprit, and I told them to notice where the shoals were white. The sounding-lead was kept in hand; and in the event of our having to go about or to anchor, we stood by the sheets and bowlines and had the anchor cleared. I steered for the place where we found seven fathoms of water, as it seemed to me that we should not find a less depth. The boat had not yet reached the sh.o.r.e, so I determined to sound and I got twelve fathoms with a clear bottom; and farther on it was deeper and also clear of rocks. Although it was mid-day, a star appeared to us over the entrance of the reef. Taking it as a guide and as a good omen, we were cheered in spirit and became more hopeful. As we proceeded, the water deepened little by little: and I informed the General that we were already clear of the reefs ... I signalled to the 'Almiranta' to follow us. As we neared the harbour where the boat had gone, they signalled to us that they had found a good anchorage. Presently we entered the harbour with the star over the bow, and we anch.o.r.ed, the 'Almiranta' entering shortly afterwards. At the entrance of the port is a rock (or islet), in size larger than the s.h.i.+p.

"It was the day of Santa Polonia, the 9th of February. The harbour, which is in the lat.i.tude of 7 50', we named the port of Santa Isabel del Estrella; and we named the island, Santa Isabel. The Indians called the island Camba; and their cacique is named Billebanarra. This harbour lies nearly in the middle of the north coast of the island, and is 26 leagues north-east and south-west from the reefs.[218] Having disembarked with the other captains, I took possession of the island in the name of His Majesty. A cross was erected: and I chose a convenient place for building a brigantine."

[218] The reefs, here referred to, are evidently the Candelaria Shoals. This bearing of the harbour with these shoals does not warrant the position which has been a.s.signed to Estrella Bay in the present Admiralty Chart, its position there being due south of these reefs.

On the following day, Gallego landed with the carpenters; and they began with all diligence to fell the trees and to saw the planks for the construction of the brigantine. Meanwhile the General had sent Pedro Sarmiento with thirty men into the interior. They penetrated about five leagues, and met with some Indians, one of whom they took as a hostage.

This native was treated kindly by the General; and he was set at liberty in order that he might carry a favourable account to the other natives of the island. During this incursion, a soldier had been struck by an arrow, but received no hurt. Shortly afterwards, a larger force was dispatched under Pedro de Ortega to explore the interior. The expedition included 52 persons, and comprised 35 soldiers, with some seamen and negroes. They were absent seven days from the s.h.i.+p; and from the account of Gallego, we may infer that but little discretion was employed in their dealings with the natives. They burned "many temples dedicated to the wors.h.i.+p of snakes, toads, and other insects;" and, as the result of such proceedings, two soldiers were wounded, one of whom subsequently died of teta.n.u.s. His name was Alonzo Martin, and he bore the character of a good soldier.

"These people," writes the Chief Pilot, "are tawny and have crisp hair.

They go naked, wearing only short ap.r.o.ns of palm leaves. They have as food some maizes or roots which they call _benaus_ and plenty of fish.

They are, in my opinion, a clean race, and I am certain that they eat human flesh." On the 15th of March, whilst the Spaniards were at ma.s.s on sh.o.r.e, a fleet of fourteen canoes arrived at the place where the brigantine was being built. The cacique, who was in command, sent the General a present of a quarter of a boy, including the arm and hand, together with some roots (benaus), which he requested him to accept. In order that the natives should understand that the Spaniards did not eat human flesh, the General ordered it to be buried in their presence, at which they were abashed and hung their heads, and returned to an islet which was situated at the entrance of the harbour. This cacique, who is termed in the Journal the Taurique Meta, lived at a place fifteen leagues from the harbour to the west-by-north. Pedro de Ortega, with the two pilots, Pedro Roanges and Juan Enriquez, were sent with thirty soldiers and four Indians to visit the place where this taurique lived.

They were absent four days, and effected nothing except the capture of four Indians, two of whom they retained as hostages in order to compel the natives to bring them provisions.

On the 4th of April, the brigantine was launched, and the rigging was set up. It having been resolved that she should proceed on a voyage to discover the other islands and harbours, Gallego, Ortega, with 18 soldiers[219] and 12 sailors, embarked on board; and on the 7th of April they left the port. Following the coast along to the south-east, they came to two islets, lying six leagues away from the port of Santa Isabel de la Estrella, and situated, according to an observation of Gallego, exactly in the lat.i.tude of 8. On these islets were many palms which were deemed to be palmettos and cocoa-nut trees. "This land," as the Chief Pilot remarks, "trends south-east and north-west. The needle stood a point to the north-east and there remained. Proceeding on our cruise, we saw many islets in the same direction ... .[220] 5 leagues from where we had started; and we anch.o.r.ed at an islet in which we found a canoe and three houses. We landed 7 soldiers; and they went up towards the houses in search of the Indians, who, however, carried off their canoe. On reaching the houses, the soldiers found a quant.i.ty of provisions, which they brought on board the brigantine. Continuing our voyage along the coast, 17 canoes came out to us. In them came an exceedingly daring Indian, who, calling himself the cacique Babalay, held his bow towards us, and signified to us that we should go with him, and that, if we should not wish to go, he would carry us by force and would kill us. On account of his audacity, the "maestre de campo"

ordered them to fire and knocked him down with a shot; and when those in the canoes saw him fall, they all fled to the sh.o.r.e. Shortly afterwards, I tacked towards the sh.o.r.e in order to make a port, as the wind was strong. In a little time we came to an anchor, and I found by observation that the lat.i.tude was 8?... .[221]" Leaving this anchorage, they stood out to sea, with the wind in the north-north-west; and in a short time they kept away and followed the coast along to the south-east-by-east.

[219] According to the MS. in this pa.s.sage, only 10 soldiers embarked; but on one occasion during the cruise it is stated that 18 soldiers were landed (_vide_ p. 207), a number which agrees with that given by Figueroa.

[220] The words omitted here are in the Spanish: "hasta la provincia de Vallas."

[221] Reference is here made to the fact that the coast ran north-west-by-west with the island of Meta, which was seven (?) leagues distant. This island of Meta was probably a small coast island on which the chief of that name lived.

"And as we sailed on," continues Gallego, "the mast sprung and nearly fell on us. Seeing what had happened, I ordered the sails to be secured and the tackle to be brought to the weather side, and in this manner the mast was "stayed." When the night overtook us we were without knowledge of any port, having much thick weather with wind and rain.

Guided by the phosph.o.r.escence of the sea we skirted the reefs; and when I saw that the reefs did not make the sea phosph.o.r.escent, I weathered the point and entered a good harbour at the fourth hour of the night, where, much to our ease, we pa.s.sed (the remainder of) the night.[222]

This port is 6 leagues from where we set out, and is in a great bay. It is capacious and has 7 or 8 inhabited islands. The next day I disembarked the people to get water and wood; and we saw coming to the beach more than a hundred Indians, carrying their bows and arrows and clubs with which they are accustomed to fight. The 'maestre de campo'

ordered those on sh.o.r.e to embark, fearing some ambuscade. Soon the Indians arrived but they did nothing, and a canoe came. Seeing that they made no attack, the 'maestre de campo' ordered four soldiers to go ash.o.r.e and fire three or four shots to frighten them; and when this was done and the Indians saw it, they shot their arrows and took to flight.

Thus pa.s.sed the 12th of April.

[222] To find in a dark night and in thick weather an opening in a line of coral-reef on an unknown coast, is an undertaking fraught with the greatest hazard, even for a s.h.i.+p possessing steam power.

The only available guide is that which was followed by this clear-headed navigator; but it is one which, as it depends on the luminosity of the sea, can only be of occasional service. When the sea has been unusually phosph.o.r.escent, each roller, as it breaks on the weather-edge of the reef, is marked by a disconnected line of light, reminding one of the straggling fire of a line of musketry. I once saw this phenomenon splendidly exhibited on the coast of j.a.pan, the sea-surface being crowded with myriads of "Noctilucae."

"Whilst in this bay we saw to seaward a very large island which lies east and west with this bay. This island is called in the language of those Indians, Malaita. The west extreme of this island lies east and west with the point of Meta.[223] This island lies with the shoals of Candelaria north-west-by-west and south-east-by-east 52 leagues;[224]