The Solomon Islands and Their Natives Part 23

and the extremity of this island of Malaita is in 8; it is distant from the island of Santa Isabel 14 leagues; it has 5 or 6 islets at the extremity, which are, each of them, 2 leagues in circuit. There are two islets in the middle, between the two large islands. The name of the Isle of Ramos suggested itself for this Island of Malaita, because it was discovered on Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos).[225]

[223] The point of Meta is probably near the place where the chief of that name lived. _Vide_ page 203.

[224] "Norueste sueste quarta de leste hueste" is the bearing given in the MS. The distance of 52 leagues very closely corresponds with the distance indicated on the present chart between the west end of Malaita and Ontong Java. (_Vide_ appendix: note iv.)

[225] Through an unconscious error in the translations by Mr.

Dalrymple and Capt. Burney of the account given by Figueroa, the name "Isle of Ramos" has been applied in modern charts to an islet nearly in the middle of the pa.s.sage between Isabel and Malaita. For further particulars consult Note VI. of appendix.

"Coasting further along from this bay, we saw a fleet of more than seven large canoes making for the sh.o.r.e where there were fisheries. The canoes came on with us; and many Indians shot their arrows at us with great shouting. The 'maestre de campo,' on seeing their daring, ordered some muskets to be fired; and one Indian was killed and the rest took to flight. On the following day, which we made the 14th of April, running further along the coast to the east-south-east (?) we sailed nearly 6 leagues. Here the Indians came out to us in a friendly manner, bringing cocoa-nut and other things which we needed. Here we saw a hog, which was the first we had seen. The next day we went further out in quest of the point and extremity of this island, running to the south-east. From the bay to the point of the island, the coast ran north-west and south-east.

There are some islets near this point; and from this point to the bay is 14 leagues. I took the lat.i.tude and found it to be barely 9. At this point, two canoes came out to us with fighting-men, in order to question an Indian whom we had on board, one of the two we took from Meta. They shot their arrows at us; and when we fired a musket to frighten them, they fled.

"On the following day, which we reckoned the 16th of the month, being at the extremity of this island, we named it Cape Pueto;[226] and from here we discovered some islands to the south-east,[227] which are 9 leagues from this cape. Some lie north-by-west and south-by-east;[228] and others north-west and south-east. And we approached them this day with a fair wind, sailing to the south-east. We arrived at ten o'clock in the night at an island which was a league and a half in circuit; and there we anch.o.r.ed. It is low and beset with reefs. We sailed around it. It has many palms, is inhabited; and it was there we pa.s.sed the night. When it dawned, we were desirous to land but could not on account of the numerous shoals and reefs. It was named 'La Galera.' Here a canoe came off to us carrying 50 men whom we perceived to be ready for battle... .[229] It preceded us to another large island which was a league distant. It was soon joined by many canoes both small and large; and in (one of) them came a leading taurique. He came and approached us in a friendly manner, and gave us beads (chaquiza), of the kind they wear, which resemble those that are found in Puerto-viejo.[230] The 'maestre de campo' gave him a good reception; and in token of peace presented him with some things which we had on board. Soon the taurique commanded the men in the canoes to take the brigantine in tow and bring us into the harbour, which they did. After we were inside, the 'maestre de campo' landed with 18 soldiers; and I remained with 12 on board the brigantine. The Indians soon took up their weapons, and hurled stones at us, and jeered at us because we asked for provisions. Seeing their insolence, some shots were fired at them, and two Indians were killed.

Thereupon they fled, leaving their houses defenceless. This island is called in the language of the Indians, Pela.[231] And there is a chain of five islands, which lie east and west one with another. The first of these, which we came to, was at the east end, for we were pursuing our discoveries from East to West; it lies with the Cape Prieto north-west and south-east, 9 leagues from the said cape. It will be in circuit 12 leagues. It is well peopled by natives and has many huts and towns and ... .[232] To this island we gave the name of Buena Vista from its appearance; it seemed to be very fertile, and was well-peopled; and the rest are as above mentioned. They go naked, without any covering _whatever_, and have their faces patterned (tattooed).[233] There are many inhabited islands around. I took the lat.i.tude here, and found it to be 9 south of the equinoctial. It runs east and west.

[226] The name of this cape is spelt in three different ways in this MS., viz., Puerto, Pueto, and Prieto. The latter is that adopted in Figueroa's account. Puerto seems to be the correct name as no reason is given in the journal for using the epithet of "black" (prieto); but the last is employed in the present chart.

[227] In the account of Figueroa this bearing is given as south-west, which, as pointed out by Pingre, Fleurieu, and Burney, is in contradiction to the other bearings, and was by all three authors replaced by that of "south-east."

[228] "Norte sur quarta del norueste sueste."

[229] As the meaning is obscure, I have here omitted the following: "and coming close to us" which is followed in the Spanish by "no nos dijo cosa nise movieron contra nosotros," which I have left untranslated.

[230] A town in the province of Quito, in the kingdom of Peru.

[231] Gela is the present native name of the Florida Islands.

(Codrington's "Melanesian Languages," p. 522, _circa_). Consult Note VII. of the geographical appendix.

[232] "Lugares formados y juntos." These words, which I have not translated, are to be found unaltered in Figueroa's account, and have been rendered thus by Dalrymple "places cultivated and enclosed."

[233] "Las caras labradas."

"On Good Friday of this same year we went from this island to another a league distant. We found in it abundance of cocoa-nuts; and we placed a quant.i.ty on board the brigantine for our sustenance. Whilst we were at this island, a canoe came off to us with three Indians; they left us to go from there to the large island; and they offered us hogs, but we did not want them.

"On arriving at the large island, the 'maestre de campo' landed and came to a town which was on high-ground. Here they gave him two hogs, which he brought off with him to the s.h.i.+p, having met with no bad treatment; and we returned to pa.s.s the night at the islet (?). This day was Holy Sat.u.r.day. On the following day, which was the Feast of the Resurrection, we skirted the south coast of the island; and from here we went to another island, which is a league from it. On our arrival, there came off to us more than 20 canoes of fighting-men, who planned taking us to their town and capturing us, and displayed much delight amongst themselves. I ordered the anchor to be weighed that we might get to a better place, because we were almost touching the shoals. When the Indians saw that we were about to s.h.i.+ft our position, they got into their canoes in a great hurry with their bows and arrows, and clubs, and many stones; and in a very fierce manner they began to shoot their arrows and stones at us. Seeing their daring, we replied with the muskets; and many Indians were killed, and the whole were repulsed; and they rallied and came on to the attack with greater fury; but this time they suffered even more, and for the second time they were repulsed and routed. There were more than 700 Indians. We took three canoes; but afterwards we abandoned two and kept the other. Deserting their towns, they went off with many howls and cries to the higher land in the interior. Soon the 'maestre de campo' landed with 20 men: and he endeavoured to bring off some provisions to the brigantine, and to restore friends.h.i.+p with the natives; but from their dread of the muskets they would never approach; and they kept much in advance of them calling to each other by conch-sh.e.l.ls and with drums. Seeing that there was no help for it, we set fire to a house, after having taken possession of the island in the name of His Majesty, as in the case of the other islands; and we gave it the name of 'La Florida.' This island is in lat.i.tude 9 and lies east and west with the island of Buenavista. It is 25 leagues in circuit, and is a fine island in appearance, with many inhabitants, who are also naked as in the other islands; and they redden their hair, eat human flesh, and have their towns built over the water as in Mexico.[234]

[234] In the present day the natives of Florida built their houses on piles. See p. 60, of this work.

"This day we went on to other islands which are further to the east in the same lat.i.tude. The first has a circuit of 25 leagues. We had not resistance from them (the Indians); because they had already come to know that they could not overcome us, if we were prepared for them. To this island, we gave the name of San Dimas. We did not go to the remaining islands that we might not hinder ourselves. We named the one San German, and the other the Island of Guadalupe." (_Vide_ Note VII. of the Geographical Appendix.)

"The next morning we went to another very large island which is on the south side of the five islands. In the middle of the way, or half-way between them, is an island which we named Sesarga. It is 8 leagues in circuit. This island is high and round and well-peopled; with plenty of food, _mames_ and _pa.n.a.les_[235] and roots and hogs [which have no grain to eat?]. In the middle of this island there is a volcano, which is continually emitting great smoke. It has a white streak which resembles a road descending from the higher parts down to the sea. This island is in lat.i.tude 9. With the island of Buenavista it lies north-west and south-east (?).[236] Five leagues from this island, there came out 5 canoes; and they gave us a fish, telling us by signs that we should go with them to their island, and that they would give us hogs. The Indians went away; and we slept this night at sea.

[235] Figueroa gives for _mames_, _ynanimes_; and for _pa.n.a.les_, _panays_. In the first instance, "yams" are probably meant; whilst, in the second case, Burney suggests that by _panays_ the "breadfruit" may be referred to. Fleurieu hints that it may be the application of the name of the "parsnip" to some other vegetable.

The "taro" is evidently here alluded to.

[236] In Note VII. of the Geographical Appendix, I have treated of the question relating to the identification of the islands which lie between Cape Prieto and the north coast of Guadalcanar, with the Spanish discoveries. In so doing, I have re-opened a discussion that excited considerable interest a century ago, but which has since, notwithstanding the efforts of Burney and Krusenstern, been almost forgotten. Those acquainted with these islands will recognise in Sesarga the present Savo.

"On the next day, which was the 19th of April, we arrived at the great island, which we had seen, and came upon a town of the Indians. There is a large river here; and there came out canoes to the brigantine, and some Indians who were swimming, and some women and boys. They gave us a rope, and towing us, carried us to the sh.o.r.e. When we were close to the beach, they began to throw stones at us, saying, 'Mate,' 'Mate,' meaning that they were going to kill us.[237] Some shots were fired, which killed two of them, and immediately they left us and fled. The 'maestre de campo' landed with 20 men, and took possession as in the case of the other islands. In the town was found, in small baskets, a large quant.i.ty of provisions, of roots, and ginger which is plentiful in this island.

We put on board the brigantine what we could, including a hog. The same evening, we embarked; and we gave this island the name of Guadalca.n.a.l and to the river that of Ortega. I took the lat.i.tude, and found it to be in 10. With the higher part of Buenavista, it lies north and south 9 leagues, and with that of Sesarga north-west and south-east. From here we determined to return to where we had left the s.h.i.+ps. We, therefore, started on the return voyage. Running back to the island of Santa Isabel, we pa.s.sed by the island of Sesarga, which is called in the language of the Indians 'Guali.' Pursuing our way, we came close to Cape Prieto. We sailed along the south coast and arrived at an island, 7 leagues from Cape Prieto, which lies with the island of Sesarga north-by-west[238] 15 leagues. The taurique of this island, Beneboneja by name, called it the island of Veru. It is a league from that of Santa Isabel. The pa.s.sage (entrada), which is on the south-east side of the island of Beru (Veru), has a fine harbour that is able to hold a thousand s.h.i.+ps: it is 6 leagues in length, has a depth of 12 to 8 fathoms, is very clear (of shoals), and has an outlet to the north-west a league in length.[239] This channel[240] runs west-north-west to the cape of this island, where there is a large town which has more than 300 houses. The Indians received us in a friendly manner, giving us a hog: and because they would not give us more than a hog, we seized three canoes; and when they saw that we had taken these canoes, they ransomed them, giving for two canoes two hogs. We saw in this island some pearls that the Indians brought, which they did not hold in much esteem. They also brought us some tusks[241] that seemed to belong to some large animal, of which they have many: and they told us that we should take them and give them back their canoe. I considered that we should restore their canoe and accept these tusks: but the 'maestre de campo' was not willing to do so. This island is in lat.i.tude 9?. We named it the island of Jorge.[242]

[237] There is here a strange coincidence. The natives in using the word "mate"--a widely spread Polynesian word for "dead"--were unconsciously making a correct use of the Spanish verb "matar," to kill.

[238] Norueste quarta del norueste (?).

[239] This fine harbour is at present known as Thousand s.h.i.+ps Bay.

It was visited by D'Urville, in 1838, who named his anchorage Astrolabe Harbour.

[240] The outlet to the northwest has been named Ortega Channel. It was explored by the officers of D'Urville's expedition.

[241] Probably boar's tusks.

[242] The St. George's Island of the present chart.

"We continued our return journey, sailing to the west-by-north around the said island of Santa Isabel. When we were a third part from the south-south-east portion of this island, we saw two large islands. We did not go to them, because _we had not reached the extremity of the island which we should have to round_,[243] and also because the coast is beset with many reefs and shoals which we could scarcely pa.s.s through in the brigantine, it being impossible to sail through them in s.h.i.+ps.

These islands would be 6 leagues from Santa Isabel; they are in lat.i.tude 9? S., as they lie east and west with the island of Veru 10 leagues.

These islands, which we pa.s.sed, bear east and west one with the other.

The land runs much further to the west-by-north. The needle declined to the N.W.[244] I observed the sun near the river and found myself in 9 full (_9 grados largos_). In this island we saw many bats (_murcielagos_) of such a size that the wings from tip to tip measured 5 feet in expanse. This island has a breadth of 20 leagues; for I took the sun on the north side, where the s.h.i.+ps lay, and now on the south side; and in this last I found the lat.i.tude to be 9 full (_largos_), whilst on the north side the lat.i.tude is 8 minus 8 minutes, lying north-north-east and south-south-west 20 leagues. To the two large islands, which we saw, we gave the following names, to the one San Nicolas, and to the other, which lies more to the west, the Isle of Arracises (Reefs), because there are so many reefs to pa.s.s through that it is impracticable to sail round the island.[245]

[243] The general sense of this pa.s.sage italicized is here given.

[244] For N.W. read N.E. There is evidently a mistake in the MS., as Gallego previously found the needle to vary one point to the north-east, when a few leagues from Estrella Harbour (see p. 204).

[245] These two islands were probably, from their bearing with the island of Veru or St. George, the two mountainous islands in the south-east part of New Georgia, which, as observed by Gallego, runs much further to the westward. Their distance, however, from Veru, is more than double that which Gallego gives.

"After running for four days, but not through the nights, we could scarcely sail along,[246] on account of the many reefs; and we entered a pa.s.sage a quarter of a league further on, but seeing that there was no outlet we had to return by the aid of the oars.[247] At this time many Indians came out against us, from among the reefs, with their bows and arrows. We made sail, and as we were proceeding in the same direction, 18 canoes full of fishermen, in each canoe 30 Indians, with their bows and arrows, came to shoot at us. We fired some shots, and so they went away and left us.

[246] _Lit._ "we were unable to sail along."

[247] This blind pa.s.sage may be the one indicated in the present chart in the vicinity of Nairn Island, an off-lying islet.

"On the 26th of April, we reached some reefs and grounded on them.

...[248] Some Indians came out at this time with bows and arrows; and we fired some shots, but because the Indians did not leave us, we did not repeat this. There are many islets near, both inhabited and uninhabited. The island became narrower as we arrived at a point of this island which is from the extremity 6 leagues north-west to south-east.

We entered a pa.s.sage separating the island from the other islets around, which are many and inhabited. This is the west part of the island; and I took the sun at its extremity and found myself in 7. This island is 95 leagues in length, and in circuit more than 200.[249] As we sailed on, some canoes came out to us; and on our firing some shots, they left us, because ... (_porque nos aflirian_).

[248] The following sentence, being unintelligible to me, has not been translated, "porque en esta isla hay muchos suenos que llaman fuenos forzado volver atras para salir."

[249] These dimensions are very greatly in excess.

"Issuing from the pa.s.sage, we saw, towards the east-by-south,[250] 6 leagues away, a large island. We did not go to it, so as not to delay ourselves. We gave it the name of San Marcos.[251] It is in lat.i.tude 7. This island lies with that of Santa Isabel west-by-north and east-by-south. All this people, which we have hitherto seen, are naked, and are as the Moors of Barbary, and do not confess the Lord.

[250] This bearing is evidently an error; the correct bearing is given a few lines below.

[251] The island of San Marcos is evidently the Choiseul Island of the present chart, as named by Bougainville in 1768; and the pa.s.sage through which the brigantine had just pa.s.sed, is that known as Manning Strait between Choiseul and Isabel.

"Sailing on to the 28th of the month, there came out to us 34 canoes in line of battle, in order to stop us. Three large canoes, which pa.s.sed astern, followed us for more than 2 leagues. When we saw their determination to overhaul us (_que trahian_), we fired at them with a small cannon and some muskets. At this, they took to flight ... (_mas que de paieia_). Although we had been away from the s.h.i.+ps a long time and were endeavouring to return, we were delayed in arriving at them, as we were opposed by the east winds.

"Being anch.o.r.ed on Sunday at a small uninhabited island, we determined to send before us a canoe with nine soldiers, a sailor, and an Indian who had always accompanied us. Whilst they were coasting along, not daring to stand out to sea, they got on some reefs. Through their negligence, the canoe was broken in pieces; and by G.o.d's mercy, the people escaped with the loss of what they carried, their muskets and ammunition being wetted. When they were all collected together, they resolved to return to the brigantine; and the Indian ran away from them, although he did not belong to that land. Having walked all that night over the stones and rocks along the coast, for fear of meeting the Indians, they came to a point where they found a cross which they had put up when they pa.s.sed by there; and they wors.h.i.+pped it, and determined to await there the arrival of the brigantine. They put up a flag _which was seen by us as we came along_... .[252] We went to receive them and found them in a sorry plight (_maltratados_). Continuing our voyage, we came to where they had been wrecked amongst some reefs close to an islet, in which they had left two hogs that they carried with them. A canoe was sent for them (the hogs) and they were taken. Near here we anch.o.r.ed, because there was much wind. As the weather was fine and the wind was off the land, we went inside the reefs, looking out for our s.h.i.+ps all that day and part of the night. We made sail the next day at dawn, and arrived at the port of Santa Isabel de la Estrella, where we found the s.h.i.+ps, to the no small satisfaction of both those on board and of ourselves.[253]

[252] "Visto por losque en el veniamos soyechamos lo que podia ser."