Memoranda on Tours and Touraine Part 1

Memoranda on Tours, Touraine and Central France.

by J. H. Holdsworth.

PREFACE.

The author of the present little volume in offering it to the public is sensible how crude and imperfect is its form. The haste with which from unavoidable circ.u.mstances, it has been composed and the difficulties he has had to contend with in printing it in a foreign country will, he trusts, be considered an excuse, however insufficient, for errors which would otherwise be unpardonable.

His object has been to convey information on subjects new to the generality of those who resort to France for the restoration of their health. In England, independent of the valetudinarian, not only the man of wealth and fas.h.i.+on, but the economist of time and means,--in these days of locomotive mania,--deem a visit to the continent almost indispensable; and in the majority of cases, after the resolution to take a trip abroad is formed the resolvent with a perfect indifference as to _route_ or _locality_, becomes anxious to obtain information concerning such places as may in reality be most calculated to conduce to his health, pleasure, instruction or amus.e.m.e.nt,--either _en route_, or as a temporary place of residence.

Under a due consideration of these circ.u.mstances the author trusts having endeavoured to blend information with utility and amus.e.m.e.nt in so unpretending and general a form; he may be deemed to have accomplished the ends to which he has humbly aspired. And should his professional occupations at some future period, permit him to revise his work, he will render its style more worthy of the reader.

Tours, september 1842.

CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY OF TOURAINE.

Although there is little that can be denominated bold, or strikingly romantic, in the general aspect of the country around Tours, it nevertheless, possesses charms of a peculiar and novel nature, alike calculated to gratify a lover of the picturesque, tranquillize the mind, and renovate the enfeebled energies of the valetudinarian.

Hence it has long been famed as a favourite resort, more especially, of these cla.s.ses of British Tourists, etc.; many adopting it as a temporary place of residence, whilst others have permanently established themselves in some of the beautiful sylvan retreats which characterize the more immediate vicinity of the city.

Throughout a vast area, the surface of the surrounding country is pleasingly diversified by gentle undulations, considerable tracts of which are adorned by dense ma.s.ses of foliage, occasionally presenting deeply indented vistas, embosoming some modern country house or ancient Chateau, with its s.p.a.cious, but somewhat formal pleasure grounds. Many picturesque vales with their meandering streams, verdant meadows, and towering poplars, also present themselves to the eye of the traveller, but the characteristic rural features of this portion of France are its wide spread _vineyards_, which may almost be said to occupy every slope, and crown every upland.

As throughout nearly the whole of these extensive tracts of fluttering verdure, the walnut, the apple, and in many instances the peach, apricot, cherry and almond, with innumerable elms, oaks, and gigantic specimens of the Lombardy poplar are thickly and pretty uniformly interspersed, the whole country a.s.sumes a remarkably foreign and sylvan character; the peaceful beauty of which is much heightened by the sequestered and vine clad abodes of the rural population, of the majority of which, it may almost literally be said, that they are surrounded by a terrestrial paradise, teeming with the most luscious and grateful productions of all bounteous nature.

Although such is the agreeable aspect of much of what may be termed the table lands of Touraine, the picturesque character of the landscape is much enhanced as we gradually descend into the capacious valley of the Loire.

On approaching the _Barriere de la Tranchee_, the ancient and handsome city of Tours, with the dome capped towers of its magnificent cathedral, and other churches, presents itself full in view, occupying a considerable area on the opposite banks of the river, and being encircled by a girdle of luxuriant foliage formed by its celebrated _Mall (le Mail)_, a s.p.a.cious avenue of fine elms; beyond which, a fertile plain of about two miles broad extends to the Cher; which is immediately succeeded by the richly wooded southern slopes of the vale, thickly bespangled with the handsome white residences of the French n.o.blesse.

The broad and voluminous waters of the Loire, are here, as in many other localities, adorned by two rather large and well planted islands, between which the n.o.ble bridge with its fifteen elliptic arches stretches across the stream; opening a direct communication with the s.p.a.cious Rue Royale, said to be one of the handsomest streets in Europe.

The two opposite slopes of the beautiful vale of the Loire, which are sometimes deeply furrowed or intersected by denudated vallies, being thickly studded with pretty villas, surrounded by ornamental grounds, and intersected by thriving vineyards, with their sequestered villages, sometimes alone detectable by the tall taper mineret of the Parish church, piercing through the sombre ma.s.ses of foliage that occasionally project far into the hurrying current, or abruptly recede to crown some bold projection of the adjacent heights, necessarily present, many exceedingly interesting views, whose charming realities can alone be correctly depicted by the pencil of the artist, and many of which do in fact, merit to be delineated by the genius of a Claude.

The expansive plain through which this n.o.ble river gracefully serpentines, possesses an exceedingly fertile alluvial soil on a substratum of gravel, and is chiefly devoted to agricultural purposes; but, occasionally contains extensive tracts of pasture land, which fattens the majority of the cattle consumed in the adjacent districts.

The soils of the table lands are comparatively poor and infertile, being for the most part const.i.tuted of a light sandy loam and tenaceous calcareous marl, in which frequently a gravelly debris prevails, or innumerable flint stones are interspersed.

The subformations of the country being chiefly composed of sandstone and porous calcareous and siliceous rocks, renders the thin soils on these higher tracts extremely dry and arid. And perhaps this is more particularly the case where the white sandstone forms extensive mural terraces along the northern borders of the vale of the Loire. At _la Tranchee_ this rock being barely covered, and where it happens to be so to any depth, by a porous loamy and gravelly deposit only,--this fact is peculiarly and very happily demonstrated by the healthiness of the place.

CLIMATE OF TOURAINE, ETC.

A characteristic freedom from terreous moisture and aqueous exhalations, tends in no small degree to augment the natural salubrity of the Tourainean climate, and perhaps it is mainly indebted to its peculiar geological structure, which we shall presently consider more in detail, for the preference awarded to certain of its localities by invalids, over the somewhat milder but generally speaking more humid resorts of southern France.

The topographical situation also of Tours secures to it some advantageous peculiarities not possessed by many of the frequented places of the south. Pau in the south-west of France, one of its most formidable rivals, is, in consequence of its proximity to the Pyrenees, subject to considerable variations of temperature, and although a considerable distance from the coast, is very much under the influence of the Atlantic. All the changes though in some degree modified to which it gives rise extending as far as that place. These effects cannot be properly said to reach Tours, which is situated in a fine campaign country, and is at least twice the distance of Pau from the sea, or about one hundred and fifty miles; the temperature however of Tours is subject to rather frequent but decidedly not great vicissitudes, the thermometer being rarely above 80 in summer or below 40 in winter.

The comparative statements given by Dr Playfair respecting the climates of several places in the north and south of Europe, may somewhat serve to ill.u.s.trate that of Tours with regard to those respective localities:[A] The mean annual temperature of Pau is 4-1/2 higher than that of London, and about 3 higher than that of Penzance; it is about 5 lower than that of Marsilles, Nice, and Rome, and 10 lower than that of Maderia. In winter it is 2 warmer than London, 3 colder than Penzance, 6 colder than Nice and Rome, and 18 colder than Maderia. But in _spring_ Pau is 6 warmer than London, and 5 warmer than Penzance; only 2-1/2 colder than Marsilles and Rome, and 7 colder than Maderia.

The range of temperature, between the warmest and coldest months at Pau is 32; this at London, and likewise at Rome is 26; at Penzance it is only 18, and at Maderia 14. The daily range of temperature at Pau is 7-1/2, at Penzance it is 6-1/2, at Nice 8-1/2, at Rome 11.

At Tours the prevailing winds are south westerly. Between however the vernal equinox (the 21st of march and the latter part of april), easterly winds are rather frequent, but the city is pretty effectually protected from the effects of these and the north winds by the high range of country which stretches out from nearly east to west along the northern banks of the Loire. The long succession of handsome villas pleasantly situated opposite Tours at the base of these high grounds, occasionally climbing their slopes, and which are chiefly occupied by English families, being entirely protected from them.

The autumn which is peculiarly mild and may be said to be here exceedingly charming,--especially where the red tinted leaves of the vine impart a glowing richness to the vineyard clad landscape,--advances with an agreeable and smiling aspect into the more dreary month of december, when cold weather may, generally speaking, be said to have commenced; though the middle of most days is still cheered by a warm and genial suns.h.i.+ne. A good deal of heavy rain usually falls about the autumnal equinox, but is quickly absorbed by the porous soil and prevailing arenaceous formations of the neighbourhood, consequently, the atmosphere is particularly free from humidity.

A peculiar absence from cold winds may be strictly said to prevail the greater portion of the year, but perhaps the characteristic qualities of the climate are the equability of its seasons, and the comparative mildness of its spring. Const.i.tuting in a high degree, that healthful atmosphere so indispensable to the preservation and improvement of our native energies both physical and mental.

In all chronic pulmonary affections, the quality of the air which is inspired into the lungs is well known to be a point of the most vital consequence, and therefore invalids affected by inflammatory affections of that organ experience much benefit by repairing to a climate like this, more particularly during the vernal exacerbations of the disease.

Indeed experience has proved the climate of Tours to be peculiarly efficacious in bronchial affections, being very beneficial in almost all cases of irritation of the air pa.s.sages, whether or not accompanied by increased secretion.

The mild equable temperature of the Touraine climate is peculiarly adapted to afford essential relief to persons predisposed to phthisis or consumption, and those suffering from laryngeal, bronchial, and catarrhal affections, a.s.simulating that disease. Also to invalids labouring under chronic dyspepsia, gout, and rheumatic affections, a _winter's_ residence particularly, in Tours, has frequently proved highly serviceable, and no inconsiderable benefit is experienced by persons who have contracted local disease from a residence in a tropical or unhealthy climate.

Most of the above mentioned diseases being generally induced by a continued subjection to the suddenness and excess of atmospherical vicissitudes, and which the efforts of medicine alone too frequently fail to eradicate or alleviate, it is sufficiently evident, that a removal to localities where these causes can be in a great measure obviated, is in most cases, the more commendable course the afflicted can pursue, as the one a.s.suredly the most calculated to expedite the remedial skill of the Physician through the renovating virtues of those powerful and efficient agents, travelling and _change of air_.

When it is considered how much the natural character of the subtle and elastic fluid which surrounds the earth is changed and modified in different localities by the geographical position and physical peculiarities so variously distinguis.h.i.+ng the respective regions of the globe, it will, we trust, readily be conceived from what has been stated of such circ.u.mstances, respecting Tours and its neighbourhood, that its prevailing climatic qualities cannot fail to be of a highly healthful tendency.

Tours, we have intimated, is too remote from the Ocean, to be prejudicially affected by its mutable influences, or by the vast stream of aqueous vapours perpetually arising from the great western waters;--it is environed by moderately elevated _absorbing_ formations,--it is situated in a broad and extensive vale, whose fertile soils are based upon a thick alluvial deposit of gravel;--while its walls are bathed by the purifying waters of a wide, rapid and limpid river.

It is from such a happy combination of natural circ.u.mstances that its atmosphere possesses the transparency and elasticity which so strikingly characterizes it; and on which of course its peculiar adaptation for the due and healthful performance of the animal functions mainly depends.

Lord Bacon thinks the best air is to be met with in open campaign countries; where the soil is dry, not parched or sandy, and spontaneously produces wild thyme, wild marjorem, and the like sweet scented plants.

It is in fact sufficiently obvious, that wherever the aerial currents have a free and un.o.bstructed circulation those injurious mixtures, in the form of vapour known under the name of _miasmata_, cannot disseminate their baneful seeds, the whole ingredients of the atmosphere being thereby continually amalgamated together.

The greater portion indeed of central France, it may justly be said, has as strong and palpable claims to a genial and equable climate, as the province of Touraine, with all its acknowledged local advantages. The winters are of very short duration, and a powerful sun during the greater part of the year dispenses heat and life through a cloudless and lucid atmosphere.

The present winter (1842), like its immediate predecessor has been somewhat remarkable for an unusual though partial severity. This was only experienced at Tours during the month of January, when a keen but dry atmosphere prevailed. The cold about this period however, seems to have been severely felt in the south of Europe generally, and in countries where the temperature is usually very mild. At _Rome_ on the ninth January 1842, there was a fall of snow which remained on the ground several hours, and on the thirteenth the hills of Albano and Tusculum were still covered with snow. The cold was twenty two degrees below freezing point, which is a very rare circ.u.mstance in the Roman states. At _Carthagena_, where severe cold is seldom known, the thermometer fell for the first time to a degree and a half below zero.

The hills for the first time for many years were covered with snow. At _Madrid_, the great basin of the Buen-Retiro was covered with ice several inches thick, and two sentinels of the queen's palace were frozen to death at their posts. At _Valencia_ the thermometer fell seven degrees below freezing point. At _Burgois_, _Barcelona_, and _Cordova_, the weather was equally severe. Even the sh.o.r.es of _Africa_ experienced a similar visitation;--at _Algiers_ the thermometer stood at three degrees below zero. So low a temperature had not been experienced for twenty years. At _Trieste_ on the third of January, the roads were blocked up with snow, and the Mails from France and Italy were two days in arrears.

During the same month at _Tours_, but a few very slight falls of snow were experienced, and which throughout the whole winter, with the exception of one or two days, did not cover the ground for more than a few hours duration.

On the third, the thermometer here, stood at thirty-six degrees of Farenhenit in the shade, on the ninth at 24, the thirteenth at 31, the fifteenth at 39, the twentieth at 34, and on the twenty-fifth at forty-six degrees; the latter being the highest point the mercury attained during the month, and seventeen at nine o'clock in the morning of the tenth, the lowest, and which at midday rose to twenty-five degrees. There were thirteen clear, sunny days, and but six in which rain or snow fell. The north east winds prevailed until the tenth, when west and south west winds set in, and continued until the end of the month. The average daily range of temperature was four and a half.

The weather of the succeeding month rapidly became still more propitious, and the many days which a genial sun shone forth in uninterrupted splendour, produced a very sensible effect upon vegetation, the swelling buds of many of the deciduous trees, appeared on the eve of expanding into full form and beauty, while the green mantle of the plain a.s.sumed a lively and luxurious appearance.

During the month of march the thermometer continues generally to range between forty and fifty degrees; the vegetable world now resumes its wonted vigour and activity with astonis.h.i.+ng rapidity, and the whole face of nature begins to wear a smiling and cheerful aspect. The warm glowing suns.h.i.+ne of April completes the lovely picture, the tender plant is no longer held in bondage by the opposing elements, a thousand pretty odoriferous harbingers on every side remind us that the season of universal florescence is at hand, regenerated, benificent nature, rejoices beneath a serene and cloudless sky, and whilst a magical brilliancy illumines the new born verdure, the embryo bud, the expanded blossom, and the vigorous plant of spring, silently but eloquently give joyful promise of the abundant fruits of Autumn.

This is a pleasing but not overwrought picture of the forwardness and redundant beauty of the springs of central France:--

Where the resplendant orb of day Imparts the magic of his ray Een'through the wintry blast!

And dormant nature forthwith springs, Mounting to life with vig'rous wings Triumphant oer the past.

For now the rural G.o.ds do reign, Oer vine-clad hill and verdant plain, To grace the teemful earth; The clear, _elastic_ air is fill'd, With sweets the flowerets have distill'd, To consecrate their birth.

Redolent zephyrs play around, And _health_ inspiring hills abound, Beneath these bright blue skies; New energy, new life to man they give, Bidding his drooping spirit live, And taste the _new-born-joys_.