Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 19

But although this is the case, the valley of Hookhoom undergoes the same changes during the rainy season as a.s.sam, the greater part being during that period under water.

_Of the Climate_ it is perhaps presumptuous to give any opinion; it is however by no means so cold as that of Upper a.s.sam. In April the daily range of the thermometer was very considerable, from 60 degrees to 88 degrees. The rains set in later than on the northern side of the Patkaye, and they are said to be much less severe.

_The rivers_ are numerous, the princ.i.p.al one is the Namtunai, {125} which subsequently a.s.sumes the name of Kyeendweng. This is in the places I saw it a large, generally deep and sluggish stream, varying in breadth from 270 to 350 yards. The next in size is the Namtoroan, which has more of the character of a mountain stream; it is of considerable breadth (opposite Nhempean it is 270 yards across,) and presents numerous rapids.

Both of these rivers are navigable for boats of some size. The other rivers are small and insignificant; all fall into the Namtoroan or Namtunai.

_Villages_.--Of these the following were pa.s.sed on the route:--

1. _Nhempean_, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, is situated on an extensive open gra.s.sy plain, it is stockaded: it contains about 12 houses, the river is here navigable for middling sized canoes.

2. _Tubone_, on the same bank, but lower down, and within quarter of a mile of Nhempean, it is of about the same size, and similarly stockaded.

3. _Nidding_, on the left bank of the Saxsai-kha, about three-quarters of a mile above its junction with the Namtoroan: it is a stockaded village, and about the same size.

4. _Calleyang_, on the p.r.o.ng-kha contains about 8 houses: it is not stockaded.

5. _Lamoon_, on the Moneekha, is a very small village, containing four or five houses: it is not stockaded.

6. _Tsilone_, on the left bank of the Namtunai. This is the Dupha Gam's village: it is of the ordinary size, and is stockaded in the usual manner.

7. _Meinkhoon_, on the Cadeekha, by which it is intersected; it consists of two stockades, separated by the above stream; and contains about 25 houses, none of which are however large. It is here that the first PaG.o.das (Poongye houses) occur. The village is situated on an open gra.s.sy plain of considerable extent.

8. _Wullabhoom_, on the right bank of the Nemokapy, an insignificant stream. This village is not stockaded; it contains about 10 houses, of which several are of the Singpho structure.

The Gam of this village was in expectation of an attack from the Dupha people, and had in consequence erected a small square stockade for his own use; he had however built it so small that he might easily be dislodged by means of a long spear.

In addition to these, there is a village called _Bone_, on the Namtoroan; the path leading to this is crossed soon after leaving Namtusseek, and another stockaded village, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, a little below the mouth of the Saxsai-kha.

None of the above villages are situated on strong positions. The stockades are as usual of bamboo, and are but weak defences; the s.p.a.ce between the stockade and the outer palisades is covered with short pointed bamboos, placed obliquely in the ground: these are called Panjahs by the a.s.samese; they inflict very troublesome wounds, and are universally employed by the Singphos. The interiors of the stockades are dirty, the houses are built without order, and generally fill the stockade completely, so that the people inside might be burnt out with the greatest ease. The average number of houses in each of the above villages, may be estimated at about 12, of these the largest occur at Wullaboom. They are built on muchowns, and resemble in all respects those of our a.s.sam Singphos. They are generally thatched with gra.s.s (Imperata cylindrica. {126} ) The larger kinds have invariably one end unenclosed; under this portico, which is usually of some size, all the domestic operations are carried on. The Dupha Gam's is not distinguished above the rest in any one way.

_Population_.--No country inhabited by sets of petty chieftains belonging to different tribes, which are generally at enmity with each other, can be populous; it is therefore with considerable surprise that I find it stated that the number of houses in the north and eastern sides of the valley is estimated at not less than 3000, which at the rate of 7 men to one house, which is, considering the great size of very many Singpho houses, rather underrated, would make the population of these portions of the valley amount to 21,000 souls. The part of the valley which I have traversed, and during which route 75 miles of ground were pa.s.sed over, does not present a single sign which, in the absence of direct evidence, would lead one to suppose that it contained a considerable population.

During the before mentioned marches, I saw only four paths, crossing or diverging from that which we followed. Of these, one _leads_, as I have mentioned, to Bone, one to the hills on the NE., one to a Singpho village, some miles to the south of our track, and the fourth diverged from the path leading to the Amber mines through the village of a chief called Tharapown Hhoung. The population on the above route of 75 miles, would at the rate of 7 men to one house, and 12 houses to each village, amount only to 840, but I think that 1,100 or 1,200 would be a fairer estimate. From Kuttack-bhoom, as I have mentioned, a great portion of the valley is distinctly seen, and nothing meets the eye but jungle, broken here and there by the waters of the Namtunai: not a clearing is even visible; instead of a population of 30,000, as has been stated I should imagine that the whole valley of Hookhoom does not contain more than 12,000.

The above population consists almost entirely of Singphos and their a.s.samese slaves, and these last form a considerable portion. This was particularly evident at Wulla-khoon, where they certainly out-numbered their masters.

The Singphos of Hookhoong resemble exactly those located in a.s.sam: they are however less given to opium eating. They are of the same indolent habits, and content themselves with cultivating sufficient grain to keep themselves from starving. The women wear the Thumein, or Burmese dress, a costume which is entirely unknown among the Singphos of a.s.sam. The most superior men I saw belonged to the Lupai tribe, from the east of the Irrawaddi; they had come to Meinkhoon for the purpose of procuring amber.

In manners and dress they resembled the Shan-Chinese, they were provided with firelocks, in the use of which they were certainly adroit. The usual weapons of the Hookhoong Singphos are dhas and spears. I saw very few muskets.

The behaviour of these people was throughout civil, and perhaps friendly.

Their hatred of the Burmese is excessive, the visits of the armed forces of this nation being most hara.s.sing and oppressive. They are sub-divided into tribes, among whom there is but little unanimity. The Dupha Gam is much disliked, as he is considered the cause of the visit of the Burmese.

His power has been much exaggerated; he is not capable of bringing 500 men into the field. So unpopular was he, that it was reported to Mr.

Bayfield, that he was to be cut off immediately the Burmese force had left the valley.

In giving the foregoing low estimate of the population of the valley, I believe I have taken into consideration every circ.u.mstance of importance.

The occurrence of several old burial places on the route, some of which are of considerable extent, might be considered by some as a proof, that the population has undergone a decrease; but I conceive that it is sufficiently accounted for by the wandering habits of the people.

_Capabilities_.--The greater part of the valley is well adapted for the cultivation of rice, and as the soil is generally rich, approaching in external characters to that of some parts of Upper a.s.sam, particularly Muttack, it is capable of supporting a large population.

_Products_.--Of the mineral productions, the most remarkable is Amber, for which the valley of Hookhoong has been long famous, and from the existence of which it derives its Burmese name. The mines are situated in low, wooded hills, from which they are distant between five and six miles; of this distance the first three miles traverse the plain on which Meinkhoong is situated. The pits now worked give occupation to about a dozen people; they occur on the brow of a hill: they are square, and of various depth, the deepest being about 40 feet, the diameter not exceeding three feet; the workmen ascending and descending by placing their feet in holes made in two faces of the square. No props are used to prevent the sides of the pits from falling in, the tenacity of the soil rendering this precaution unnecessary. The instruments used, are small wooden shovels, a wooden crow-bar tipped with iron for displacing the soil or breaking the rocks, baskets for removing the substances so displaced, buckets made of the bark of trees {128} for removing the water which is met with in the deepest pits, and rude levers similar to those used in Madras for the purposes of irrigation, for carrying the soil, etc. from the pits to the surface; these however are only used in the deeper pits, a hooked bamboo answering the purpose in the shallower ones.

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of from 15 to 20 feet, is clayey and red: the remainder consists of a greyish-black carbonaceous earth, increasing in density with the depth, and being very hard at a depth of 40 feet. The amber occurs in both these, the clue to its existence being the presence of small ma.s.ses of lignite. The searching occupies but very little time, as the presence of the lignite is readily ascertained; all I saw dug out occurred as small irregular deposits; it did not appear to be abundant. The people appear to have no guide for the selections of favourable spots on which to commence their operations; but having once met with a good pit, they dig other pits all around, and often within a distance of two feet from the first one sunk.

I could not succeed in procuring a single fine specimen; indeed the workmen denied having found any of value during the last six years! It is an article in great request among the Chinese and Singphos; at the pits, however, it is not high priced, and a first rate pair of ear-rings are procurable at Meinkhoong for 5 tickals; in a.s.sam 10 rupees are occasionally given. Meinkhoong is annually visited by parties of Shan- Chinese, for the purpose of procuring this mineral; the caravan at the time I pa.s.sed this village had returned, and I believe was met by Mr.

Bayfield. There was a small party of Lupai Singphos from the East of the Irrawaddi, consisting of a Tsonba and six or seven followers still waiting for a supply.

The spot occupied by pits is considerable, but three-fourths of these are no longer worked. Compared with the Serpentine mines, they are but of small value.

Both _Coal and Salt_ exist in the valley; the only indication of the existence of the former I saw, was a ma.s.s of lignite in the bed of a nullah between Tsilone and Meinkhoong.

_Vegetable products_.--Fine timber trees, {129} which belong to the same genus as the Saul, occur between Nhempean and Namtusseek, and elsewhere towards the foot of the hills surrounding the valley.

The Mulberry of Upper a.s.sam occurs likewise, and the leaves supply with food a species of silkworm. From the silk a coa.r.s.e species of cloth is manufactured, but the use of this appears to be very limited.

Tea appears to be of uncommon occurrence. The only specimens I saw were given me by Mr. Bayfield, they were procured from low hills some distance from Sh.e.l.lingket. On this subject Mr. Bayfield made very frequent and minute enquiries, and the result appears to be that the plant is of rare occurrence; none exists towards or about the amber mines.

The Room of Upper a.s.sam (Ruellia Indigofera Mihi) is in use for dyeing cloths, but not so much so as in a.s.sam.

The cultivated plants are of the ordinary kind; and the produce is just sufficient to meet the wants of the inhabitants. Owing to the presence of the Myoowoon's force, rice was scarce during my visit; the price was seven tickals a basket, each of which contains about 30 days' supply for one man.

The domestic animals are of the ordinary description: fowls forming the only poultry. But on this subject it is unnecessary to enlarge, as the habits and manners of the people are precisely the same as those of the a.s.samese Singphos.

IV. FROM WULLABHOOM TO MOGOUNG.

COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING CONSIDERABLE PORTION OF THE MOGOUNG VALLEY, THROUGHOUT SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY.

March 1. _Halted_ on a small stream, a tributary of the Mogoung river.--Direction nearly S. distance 22 miles, course at first along the Namphyet, thence over low hills, forming part of the S. boundary of the valley of Hookhoong.

2. _Halted_ on the Mogoung river.--Direction S. distance 22 miles, over similar low hills until we reached the Mogoung river after a march of four hours, soon descending into its bed, which we followed.

3. _Mogoung_ river.--Direction S. distance 13 miles, course along the bed of the river.

4. _Mogoung_ river.---Direction SE. distance 14 miles, course continued along the bed of the river.

5. _Kamein_.--Direction SSE. distance 14 miles: on starting left the Mogoung river: course throughout over fine open high plains intersected by belts of jungle.

6. _From Kamein to Mogoung_.--Direction SSE. Distance 25 miles, course over high open plains and dry woods. Many nullahs occurred on the route: crossed the Mogoung river opposite to Kamein.

_Nature of the Country_.--The low hills which are pa.s.sed before reaching the Mogoung river, are covered with tree jungle, but they afford scarcely any thing of interest; they are here and there intersected by small plains, covered with the usual gra.s.ses. {130} The country traversed while following the Mogoung river, is most uninteresting, the road following almost entirely the sandy bed of the river, the banks of which are either covered with gra.s.s or tree jungle. On leaving this most tortuous river, the face of the country improved and became very picturesque, presenting almost exclusively fine high, and rather extensive plains covered with gra.s.s, and partially with trees, while here and there they are intersected by strips of dry tree jungle. Low hills are visible frequently, especially to the eastward.

_Villages and Towns_.

1. _Kamein_, on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the junction of the Endaw-khioung, consists of two stockades, one on a small hill the other at the foot. Both together contain about 32 houses. The inhabitants are Shans. It is a place of some consequence, as it is on the route from Mogoung to the Serpentine mines. From Kamein, Shewe Down Gyee, a conspicuous mountain, so called, bears east.

2. _Mogoung_, on the right bank of the river of the same name, just below the junction to the Namyeen Khioung, contains rather fewer than 300 houses. Although it contains so few houses it is a place of considerable extent. It is surrounded by the remains of a timber stockade, similar in construction to those of Burmah proper. The houses are mostly small, and I speak within bounds when I say, that there is not a single one that bears the stamp of respectability. There is a bazaar, but nothing good is procurable in it. Tea and sugar-candy are rare and high priced. Pork is plentiful. Mogoung is situated in a plain of some extent, this plain is surrounded in almost every direction by hills, all of which, with the exception of Shewe Down Gyee, are low: the nearest of these are about three miles off.

The inhabitants are mostly Shans, there are some a.s.samese, the chief of whom is a relation of Chundra Kant, the ex-Rajah of a.s.sam. The best street in the town, though one of small extent, is that occupied by the resident Chinese, none of whom however are natives of China proper. Of this people I should say there are barely 60 in Mogoung, and, judging from their houses, none of which are of brick, I should say they are very inferior to their fellow-countrymen residing in Bamo.