Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 28

At the Choky, the elevation of which is 965 feet, OEsculus begins.

Wallichia,* OEschynanthus, Urtica gigas,* Derngia,* Govania,* Anthistiria arundinacea, Alstonea, Angiopteris, are found. Grislea is found as high as 1,000 feet. Ficus obliquissima is found at 300 feet, and Ficus altera species as high as 700 feet.

At 1,200 feet Rubi sp., Panax, Cordia, are found, and on the steep ascent, Hastingsia,* Gordonia, Eurya, Corisanthera, Griffithia.

At one place the jack fruits, Ficus elastica, Compositi arborea, Panax altera species.

Dew.a.n.geri occupies a ridge 200 feet above our halting place, the elevation of which is 2,031 feet. The view to the north is confined to a ravine of 1,500 feet deep, at the bottom of which runs a considerable mountain torrent: to the SW. plains are visible, to the east and west the view is hilly.

The village itself is a poor one, containing perhaps sixty houses, but these are divided into three or four groups; the houses, with the exception of three or four stone and lime ones, are of the usual build, viz. of bamboo, and raised on muchauns. Filth and dirt abound every where, and the places immediately contiguous to the huts are furnished plentifully with various ordures.

Along the ridge three or four temples occur, these are of the Boodhistical form: they are composed entirely of slate, are white-washed; none are of any size, and the workmans.h.i.+p is rude in the extreme; on each face of the square bas.e.m.e.nt, slabs of slate with inscriptions are visible, and in one instance many of these are ranged along a longish wall. The PaG.o.das are surrounded with long banners, with inscriptions fastened longitudinally to bamboos. On the west side of this the view is remarkably pretty, embracing all the temples, part of the village, and the Rajah's house. The hills adjoining being considerably diversified and remarkable, and for India over picturesquely wooded.

The pucka houses are ungainly structures, the height being out of all proportion to the width, the walls are very thick, and composed of slate slabs, the roof is choppered with projecting eaves, the windows are very narrow. Each has three stories, the middle one being occupied by the owner, this is divided into several rude compartments, each of which has one or two balconies.

The steps are rude and awkward, consisting of notches cut into large blocks. The cooking is carried on, on the ground floor, much to the edification of the residents above. Dirt abounds in every direction. The doors are rudely constructed of wood.

_January 4th_.--To-day was occupied by moving up into the village, in which we occupy a pucka house.

_January 5th_.--Visited the Sooba or Rajah, his house is very picturesque, reminding me much of the pictures of Swiss cottages: it is white-washed, with a red belt. The interior is capacious; the state room has hangings, which are decorated with native pictures on cloth. At the east end is a recess in which are some well-executed Chinese statues, the chief figure is of large dimensions, and is intended to represent the Durmah Rajah, whose statue is supposed to give infallibility. Two bells were suspended, one from the centre, the other from the balcony, the tongues of which were long, of ivory, and moved by a string. The Rajah received us in state, amidst discordant sounds of horns, pipes, and drums; his followers for the most part were badly clothed, the few decent looking persons being only decent externally. He was seated on a raised dais and was well dressed. He is a stout Chinese looking man, about 50 years old, and his deportment was certainly easy and dignified. The meeting was very friendly, but it is evident that we shall be delayed here at least seven days.

The central room in the Rajah's house is used as a guard house! arms were fixed round the walls, but they seemed to consist chiefly of spears, swords, and bucklers.

_January 6th_.--I walked this morning to a village, a mile to the west, in which there is a picturesque pucka house of religion. What pleased me especially was a specimen of a juniper, of extreme elegance, with drooping branches. The house itself was of the usual form, and one end was occupied as usual by an ornamental window and balcony. I noticed in addition Ulmus and Quercus.

The vegetation hitherto seen about this, consists of mango trees, several species of fig, among which were Ficus indica, elastica, terminalioides, Papyrifera, etc. two with cordate leaves occur. Ulmus, Quercus, Bombax, Juniperus and Pinus, both cultivated. Aralia or Panax, four or five species, Croton malvaefolium, Justicia, Adhatoda, Peristrophe, Amaranthaceae, Artemisia, Urtica urens? and heterophylla, Pogostemon, Triumfetta, (these occupy the old cleared spots,) Castaneae sp.?

Artocarpus integrifolium, Erythrina, Sambucus ebulus, Rubi, three species, Solanum farinaceum, Engeldhaardtia, Panda.n.u.s, Leptospartion, Calamus, Nauclea, Euphorbia carnosa, foliis ligulatis, Artocarpus chaplasha, the fruit of which is eaten, Phlebochiton extensus, Sedgwickia cerasifolia, Callicarpa arborea, Porana, Randia, sugarcane, citrons, tobacco.

The fauna contains two or three squirrels, one of which is the small one of Upper a.s.sam, Trocheloideus, the lesser Edolius or Drongo minor.

Mainas, two kinds, carrion crows, Bucco, Muscipeta flammea, and one or two other species, Parus, two or three species, kites, large tailor-birds, sparrows. The black-bird of the torrents, and the usual water-birds, black pheasants; bulbuls very common, Bucco barbatus, parroquets, barking deer.

The temperature being 58 degrees 61', water boiled at 208 degrees. The mean of two observations accordingly gives the alt.i.tude as 2,165 feet above the sea.

The number of houses is about 130, but these form two or three detached villages. The population is considerable, and there is no want of children. The people are stout and very fair, with ruddy cheeks, but abominably dirty. Some of the men are six feet in stature. We had one opportunity of witnessing their practice with the bow, but only two or three of the dozen candidates were decent shots. The mark was a very small one, and the distance 120 steps, but none hit it during the time we looked on, nor even the circular patch of branches, on which the slab of wood of this form was placed. The practice was accompanied with the usual proportion of noise and gesticulations.

There is very little cultivation on the hills around, so that this people are, at least about here, evidently dependent on the plains for their supplies. The cattle are a good breed, and totally different from those of the plains. Ponies and mules are by no means uncommon; there are likewise pigs and fowls, both of which are abundant, and of fine description.

_January 16th_.--Every thing leads me to conclude that the Booteas are the dirtiest race in existence, and if accounts be true, they are equally deficient in delicacy. Although much beyond other mountain tribes inhabiting either side of the a.s.sam valley, in the structure of their houses, in their clothing, in their language, and probably in their religion, they are inferior to them in other points. Thus their looms are perhaps really primitive, and of the most simple construction; neither in their weapons of defence are they at all superior.

On the 14th I ascended a peak to the eastward, and certainly 1,000 feet above the village: on the summit of this, where there were the remains of an old clearing, I observed Pyrus, Acer, Rhus, Tetrantherae, three or four species, Bigonia species picta, Carex, Composita arborea, Pteris aquilina, Kydia zyziphifolia, Saurauja, Eurya, Maesa Panax, Artemisia, Hedyotis scandens, Callicarpa arborea, Camellia, Caelogyne, Oberonia, Otochilus fuscescens, Ficus, Cinnamomum, AEschynanthus, Pholidota, Cyrtandra, Piper, Citrus, Corysanthera, Hypoxis, Tupistra, Bambusa.

Sanicula appeared at 2,500 feet with Bartramea spectabilis, and a small Ophiorhiza, Acer at 2,800 feet, as likewise Rhopala; at 2,000 feet, Costus and Abroma, Thunbergia grandiflora.

_January 19th_.--I find that large quant.i.ties of Mungista or madder are sent to the plains from this, where the plant is very common; it is exchanged for ill preserved salt-fish, one bundle of madder for one fish.

This fish is of an abominable odour, and probably tends to increase the natural savour of the Booteas, which, considering their total unacquaintance with soap, is sufficiently strong.

P. tells me that the Kampo country is situated north of this, and that it may be reached by a Kampo, in twenty-six days.

The language of the people we are now among, is distinct from that of a.s.sam, as will be observed from the names given to the common grains cultivated in both countries, their princ.i.p.al grain is barley, which is of a fine description; very little cultivation being carried on here, the people drawing all their supplies from the plains. The following is a list of grains cultivated: those marked * are Cerealea:--

_a.s.sam_. _Bootea_.

1* Lalkonee dhan, Yungra, )Panici sp.

2* Legaid ditto, Ditto, )

3 _Boot_, Tel, Hnam, A Sesamum.

4 _Cultivation_ in Upper a.s.sam, Braime, (Polygonum f.a.go- (pyrum, grains (very large.

5* Bhobosa, Khongpo, Eleusine sp.

6* Goomdam, Peihnam, Zea Mays.

7 Gellei-ma, Linjee, Phaseoli sp.

[Gradient Bootan: g204.jpg]

The palm from the cliffs on the road hither is evidently a species of Phaenix, pinnulis inferioribus spiniformibus reticula copiosa, pinnulis liniaribus ac.u.minatissimus, apicem versus ca.n.a.liculatis reticulo copioso, the height must be about that of a moderate Areca. No specimens of the trunk, none of flowers and seeds have been brought to me.

The temples here have a good deal of the Burmese shape, but the dome is more like that of a Mussulman mosque.

_January 22nd_.--Yesterday evening Mr. Blake's Khidmutgar died rather suddenly, he had been ailing for some days, but apparently not serious; his indisposition was owing to over-loading the stomach with radishes, etc. in which all partook too freely during the protracted halt, thus causing a good deal of sickness.

This place is so straggling that it is difficult to make a guess at the number of the houses, the greater number of the people are temporary residents and mostly are natives of Kampo,{205a} they are more dirty than the Booteas, and seem to have an especial predilection for begging. When wis.h.i.+ng to be very gracious they bow and gesticulate awkwardly, shewing their tongue at the same time. Their princ.i.p.al dress is coa.r.s.e woollen clothes, and in lieu of turbans they wear caps or hats. Their beasts of burden are princ.i.p.ally a.s.ses, which are perhaps, from bad treatment, undersized: they likewise use goats, and largish animals between goats and sheep in appearance; of these we saw one male only, it had _once_ _spiral_ horns. Even a little black kid was not exempt from carrying its share, this was ornamented by woollen ta.s.sels of a red colour, fastened through a hole in the ear.

Pemberton tells me, that most of these people come hither with the view of going to Hazoo, a place of pilgrimage in a.s.sam; some remain here as a security for the return of their brethren in three months, the period during which leave is granted by our friend the Rajah of this place.

Their language is totally different from that of the Booteas. The day before yesterday an edict against catching fish, being taken off as I supposed it would be on shewing the Rajah some flies, Blake and I went down, and repeated our visit yesterday; the bed of the river at the debouchment of the path leading towards Tongsa, is elevated 1,431 feet, (70.209.8), {205b} it is of no great size, and is generally fordable; the fish are almost exclusively Bookhar. {205c} I saw one or two Sentooreahs, {205d} and caught a long thin Bola, {206a} beautifully banded with purplish-blue. The Bookhars as usual take a fly well, especially red hackles; the largest was caught by Blake, and must have weighed nearly three pounds.

Very little worth noticing occurred in the vegetation. Sedgwickia is common and of very large size, 2,400 feet above the river, as well as tree ferns.

Equisetum occurs in the bed of the river; in some places at the same level a species of Ranunculus, Aroidea, Succulent Urticeae were common; along the edges or in the small churs, that have established themselves here and there, and which are covered with the usual Sacchara, but of smaller size; Erythrina, Leptospartion, Sambucus, Boehmeria tomentosa, Kydia calycina, Grislea, Tupistra, Leea occurred, Ficus elastica is not uncommon, one specimen presented itself, which had sprung up on another tree, fifty feet from the ground; this it had destroyed, and the appearance was singular enough.

The juice is used for water-proofing bamboo vessels. The general rocks are slate, and this was the only one we saw _in situ_; the vegetation is rather barren.

Near the bed of this river, which is called the Deo Panee, I found a curious Menispermous genus, Columnea, Clypeae perianthia uncialata, ore integeriuscula, a Myrtacea, Uncaria, Abroma augusta, etc.

On ascending, Murraya exotica, Magnoliaceae, Paederia faetida, and Bignonia, occurred at low elevations, Lobelia baccata, Wulfenia obliqua, Costus, Chloranthus, Justicea orchidiflora below 600 feet, Eurya occurred scarcely below 1,800 feet with Millingtonia simplicifolia.

The cattle here are really n.o.ble, particularly the bulls; they are much like the Mishmee Methuns, but are distinct, {206b} they are very quiet.

_January 23rd_.--Left at twelve, and arrived late at Rydang on a nullah, distant eight miles. Pa.s.sed no villages, but pa.s.sed a bridge erecting over the Deo Nuddee, at which place a Lam Gooroo or high Priest was employed: vegetation continued the same, and only two new plants occurred, a Stemodia with large yellow flowers, and a Begonia, with branched stems. Rydang is 2,404 feet above the sea (55.208.5.) {212}

_January 24th_.--Started early in the morning, (at 8 A.M.) the coolies mostly leaving at daylight. Yet although the distance was only eleven miles, we did not reach till 5 P.M. and many of the coolies did not arrive till late at night. The fact is the ascent was nearly uninterrupted during the day, the highest point traversed being about 6,000 feet. We then descended slightly to Khegumpe, our halting place, the alt.i.tude of which is 5,395 feet (46.202,) at the highest point Fahr.

thermometer stood at 42 degrees at 1 P.M.

The first part of the road lay over gra.s.sy sparingly-forested hills, until we reached 4,000 feet. Here or a little below this the change in the vegetation commenced, the first elevational plants being Serissoid; Gaultheria, and Rhododendron commenced at about 3,600 feet on dry rocky eminences, which it always prefers.

On the 1st eminence, 600 feet above Rydang or 3,000 feet above the sea, Quercus, Castanea, Sedgwickia, Polypodium Wallichii, Lobelia, Pyramidalis, Composita arborea, Gordonia, Pteris aquilina, Anthistiria, Gramen airoides, Callicarpa arborea, Artemisia, Tephrosia, Flemingia, Govania, and these continued up to 4,000 feet. We here met with Kampo Tartars with their laden sheep, the children being generally placed cradle-fas.h.i.+on on the top of the loads, each in its own basket. Itea macrophylla occurred at 3,200 feet, with Clematis, Hastingsia, Bignonia, Euphorbiacea, Briedleia.

At 3,300 feet Kydia zyziphifolia, Rhopala, Composita arborea, Hyperic.u.m,*

Triumfetta, Smilax, Indigofera.*