Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 40

The temperature is delightful, thermometer 46 degrees at 7 A.M., 52 degrees in the middle of the day.

_May 15th_.--Left Chupcha for Chuka, distant seventeen miles. Our march commenced by a very steep and indeed almost precipitous descent to the nullah, at the foot of Chupcha, of 1,800 feet. Thence we ascended gradually until we reached a temple visible from Chupcha, at which place we returned to the course along the Teemboo. The remainder of the road undulating, varying in level from 6,000 to 6,500 feet, until we commenced the descent to Chuka, which was long and tedious: we reached this at 5.5 P.M. The road latterly was very bad, we pa.s.sed Punukha, a small village, about 300 feet below our path. The mountains closing in the Teemboo continue lofty, at least 9,000 feet. Iris, cedars, and Abies densa, were common on the loftier parts.

We pa.s.sed some beautiful places, indeed the march throughout was pretty.

The vegetation was beautiful, owing to the quant.i.ty of water on the road, a stream occupying each hollow, round many of which we wound. Glades and pieces of green sward were not uncommon.

The Lamium of Bulphai is found about Chupcha. On the descent to the nullah the following plants were found.

At 7,000 feet, Iris commences, with a species of Lychnis, ground bare and rocky, Umbellifera cana, Umb., from which _moud_ is prepared, common.

At 6,800 feet, Quercus ferruginea commences, on rocks here Stemodium ruderalis, Santonica of Panga, etc., Convallaria cirrhosa.

At 6,500 feet, Hedera common, Aristolochia tetrarima, Berberis obovata, Viburnum caerulescens, Filix ferrugineo tomentosa, Pteris dealbata.

Iris common to 6,500 feet, continues lower down, but scarce. Along the nullah, which is a middling-sized torrent, Rhus, Cederela toone, Acer sterculiacea, Hamamelis, Fici sp., scandens, Rhus, Juglandifolia! Populus oblonga, Sa.s.safras, on the ascent to the temple, Populus of very large size, and the above trees. Fraxinus floribunda, Osmundia in profusion, Aristolochia tetrarima, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Prunella, Fragaria vesca, d.u.c.h.esnum, Sarcococea, Elaeagnus fragrans, Galium of Panga cascade, Corydalis, which continues to Chuka, but is scarce below 5,000 feet, Deutzia, Lilium giganteum, Uvularia very common, Primula Stuartii, Woodwardia (scarce), Pythonium pallidium, Campanula cana, Panax herbacieae 2 species, Rhododendron agaleoides of ridge above Chupcha, Buddlaea cana, Ranunculus of Taseeling, Benthamia, Anemona ranunculacea, Buxus, Delphinum sp.? common, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Jasminum lutium, Conaria. This ascent was about 500 feet. Long-tailed pie seen here, red- billed shrikelet, first met with towards Tumashoo, common now as far down as 4,500 feet.

On pa.s.sing the temple, or rather before coming to it, we changed the vegetation which became of the ordinary _dry_ character. Woods of Q.

ferruginea mixed with Pinus pendula, Benthamia, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Conaria, Polygonum of Teemboo, Rhododendron minus, Gaultheria arborea.

The remainder of the march consisted of a series of winding round spurs: at about an average elevation of 6,000 feet found a Pythonium foliis pedalis, spad. apice filiformo recurvo, vel erecto, spathe viridi, Didymocarpea odora contuso terebinthaceo, Solanum nigrum, Succulent urticeae, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Gnaphalium, Polygonum globiferum, Scirpus eriophorus, Hippocratia angulata, Mitella, in damp spots, Cycnium, but rare, Sarcococea, Impatiens two species, one at 6,500 feet, with a creeping plant, foliis ranunculaceis floribus solitariis hypocrateriform albis. No Buxus or Delphinum was observed, in any other glens than the first crossed. Alnus became common soon, the pines disappeared, Osmundia common, Primula rotundifolia, Paris polyphylla, Bletia as of Churra at Punukha, Sphaeropteris.

In some places Rhododendron minus common, and with it Quercus ferruginea, Rubia hirsuta, not uncommon throughout as far as 15,000 feet, Thalictroides majus, Houttuynia, Betula.

In glades, Smilax gaultherifolia, in a wood round the marsh a Pomaceous tree: on the march, Swertia, Peloria, Carex stricta, and of Chupcha, Spiranthes rubriflora, Berberis pinnata, Saxifraga of Bulphai occur here.

Still further on, the forest a.s.sumed the appearance of those towards Khegumpa. Q. robur, recommences, cedars straggle down; Pinus pendula, more common, Arenariae sp., Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hottoneoides ranunculofolia common, Luzula, Sedi sp., Sambucus common throughout in shady spots, Radsurae sp., Daphne papyracea, rare, Acer sterculiacea common, Sabia, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Hamiltonia, this last common to 4,500 feet.

On wet rocks Hutchinsia, Arenaria, succulent Urticea. In woods Cucurbitacea cessifolia, Ajugae sp., Polygonum rheoides. On open spots, Benthamium in flower, Gaultheria arborea, here of large size, pines cease without changing the elevation, Q. ferruginea ceased, this is limited to dry spots.

The first change indicated by the appearance of Laurineae, and Symplocos among oaks and chesnuts. The woods continued thick for some time, but on commencing the descent, which is gradual, especially at first, Q. robur is common, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus.

At 5,500 feet Hottonia, Rubia hirsuta, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Phytolacea, also at 6,500 feet, and as low as 4,000 feet, Senecio scandens, Verbenacea of Dgin appears, Uvularia, d.u.c.h.esnia, Polygonum rheoides.

Umbellifera gigantea, Potentilla supina appear, Pythonium recurvum, Rhus, Dipsacus of Churra, Alnus, Pomacea macrophylla, Stauntonia angustifolia, Photinea parviflora, Benthamea disappears, in flower at least, Didymocarpea, Rhamnus, and also at 5,000 feet, Fragaria vesca, in fruit!

Paris, Curculigo pygmaea appears, Sedum continues and ceases at 4,500 feet, Ranunculus of Taseeling found also as low as 3,600 feet, Daphne nutans appears. This found first near Taseeling, found as low as 4,000 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron minus, Viburnum caerulescens continue, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Rubus deltoideus appears.

At 4,500 feet, a Malvaceae Sidoides, Erythrina, Rosa fragrans, Pythonium sp. majus, spadicis apice filiformi 2-pedali, Incerta of Taseeling, Ribesioides, Quercus ferruginoides, Indigofera major, Berberis obovata, in fruit.

At 4,400 feet, Cuscuta, Hamiltonia, Hottoneoides, Daphne pendula vel nutans, Impatiens, Mimosa, Menispermum tropaeolifolia, Celastrinia sp., Panax crucifolia, Hyperic.u.m j.a.ponic.u.m.

At 4,300 feet, Conyza nivea, Q. robur, Indigofera major, of Ta.s.sgoung, etc. Gaultheria arborea, Hedychium appears! Buddlaea of Nulka, Maesa salicifolia!

At 4,200 feet, Thibaudia lanceolata appears, ranges between 4,200 and 2,000 feet, Sanicula, Cynoglossum, Zyziphi sp.

Along the bed of the river, Zizyphus arborea, Urtica, foliis apicae erosis, Berberis obovata, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Elaeagnus fragrans, and Stellaria cana, occur, the last ranges between 3 and 6,000 feet, Thlaspi, Polygonum globifera, Dendrobium pictum, Verbenacea of Dgin, Clematis, petiolis basi connatis demum induratus majus, Magnolia, Randia of Punukha, Liriodendron tulipif., Apocynum nerufolium.

At Chuka, Ficus elastica, but not flouris.h.i.+ng, Musa, Salix pendula, Phytolacea, Buckwheat, Crucifera cordifructus, Sanicula, Stellaria cana, Thibaudia lanceolata, Cynoglossum, Vandea, Parkioides common.

The most limited plants are Iris, Silene, Aristolochia tetrarima vix infra 6,000 feet, Buxus, Delphinioid, Fraxinus non infra 6,000 feet, Epipactis ditto, Hutchinsia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Mitella, Carex stricta of Chupcha, _Petunia_, Smilax gaultherifolia, Osmundia non infra 5,500 feet, Hydrangeacea ditto, Cucurbitacea cissifolia, found about Suddiya, etc.

The most diffused, Hottonia, Q. robur, Gaultheria arborea, 5 to 3,500 feet, Corydalis.

The subtropical forms, Mimosa, Impatiens, occurrence of fleshy Urticea, Ficus elastica, but not flouris.h.i.+ng, Musa, Salix pendula, Buckwheat, Urtica urens, peaches, Stellaria cana, Crucifera cordifructus, Panax curcifolia, Andropogon arbusculoid, Rubia cordata.

_May 16th_.--The fort of Chuka not being whitewashed, is not conspicuous: its situation is strong, and against Bhooteas would be impregnable. It occupies a low hill arising from the centre of the valley, one side of which is washed by the Teemboo or Tchien-chiw. The room we were lodged in was a good one. The village is a mean one, and consisting of three or four houses.

We crossed the river by a suspension bridge much inferior to that of Benka, and then rose gradually and inconsiderably, following the Teemboo.

To this we subsequently descended by a most precipitous road built for the most part on the face of a huge cliff: we reached the Teemboo at its junction with a small torrent; the tongue of land here was strewn with huge rocks, and bore evidences of the power of the torrents, for it evidently had been once a hill, such as that we had just descended.

Thence we continued ascending, following the river, from which however we soon diverged to our right, but not far. The road was rugged beyond description. As we approached Murichom, it improved somewhat, but was still very bad. We reached this place which is visible for some distance at 5 P.M.; the march being one of eighteen miles. No villages occurred en route. The hills were densely wooded to the summits and much lowered in height than those to which we had been accustomed. Pa.s.sed two waterfalls, one less high, but more voluminous than the other, is the Minzapeeza of Turner; both these occurred on the left bank of the river.

Minzapeeza, is a fall of great height, but the body of water is small.

The vegetation to-day partook much of the subtropical character, almost all boreal plants being left behind. We ascended and descended between 3,000 to 4,500 feet near Chuka, Parkioides, Mimosa arborea! and M.

frutex. Magnolia! Rubia munjista, Impatiens! Cucurbitacea!

Oxyspora latifolia! Rosa fragrans, Incerta ribesioides, Piper! Urtica heterophylla! Wendlandia! Phytolacea, Daphne nutans, Rottleria! Curculigo orchediflora, Acer, Eurya p.u.b.escens, Rhus, Alnus! Adamia, Gordonia! Q.

robur reappears at a lower elevation than before seen: Dipterocarpioides arbor vasta trunco ramoso! Smilax auriculata! Pothos pinnatifid! Briedlia oblonga! Corydalis, Dipsacus, Acanthaceae common, Rubiaceae of a tropical character, such as Ophiorhizae; Celastrus! Pythonium majus, Tetranthera macrophylla! Quercus coriacea! Gaultheria arborea scarce, Deutzia on the descent to the Teemboo, Macrocapnos, Sterculia platanifolia, Melica latifolia! Arundo! Achyranthes densa! l.a.b.i.ata spinosa of Khegumpa or Phlomis, l.a.b.i.ata, Quercoides. The rocks on the river side are covered with Epiphytical Orchideae; Saurauja sterculifolia, Pythonium pallidum, Elaeagnus fragrans.

Along the banks of the Teemboo, Panda.n.u.s! Rhododendron azaleoides, R.

pulchrum, Lyellia, Begonia picta, Composita arborea! Ficus! on ascent above its banks, Dioscorea! Elaeocarpus! Acrostic.u.m atratum! Convallarium oppositifolia, Thibaudia loranthiflora! Pogostemon of Dgin! Leea! The only northern plant a species of Viola; Otochilus linearis! Entada!

Kydia! Mussaenda! Macrocapnos altera of Yen, Callicarpa arborea! Panax aculeato palmiformis supra decompositae of Dgin! Solanum farinacium!

Urena lobata! Marlea, Panic.u.m plicatum! Before ascending to Murichom we made two descents to two streams, crossed by common wooden bridges: that nearer Murichom being the largest; elevation at 2,500 feet. Here tree- fern; Pythonium majus, d.u.c.h.esnia, Lysimacha, Begonia of Punukha!

Caryophyllea scandens, Urtica gigas! Modeceoides exembryonata! Commelina!

Combretum sp.! Baehmeriae! Piper spica caudata pendula and another species!! Euphorbia! Galina of Panga, Croton malvifolius! Bambusa major!

Bauhinia! Engeldhaardtii!

Although we subsequently ascended 1500 feet, very little change occurred: no re-appearance of tropical forms, Sterculiacea novum of Moosmai, Adamia, Volkameria! serrata, Triumfetta mollis! Briedlia ovalis of Chilleeri! Gortnera! Corydalis! Hydrangeacae! Melastoma malabathrica!

The march was very tiresome, some of the ranges pa.s.sed were high and well clothed with firs. Those marked thus* are subtropical or tropical, and one glance will show their predominance: only Corydalis straggles down.

The woods were in many places damp, in others dry: it was obvious that less rain had fallen between Chupcha and Chuka, than in other situations: a large proportion of Laurineae and Acanthaceae appeared in the woods, with Gordonia: the oaks and chesnuts when they did present themselves bore a tropical form, pointed out by their coriaceous undivided or merely serrated leaves. I certainly never saw such a predominance of tropical forms, at such an elevation as 3,500 or 4,000 feet.

For Lyellia I had been hunting for three years, but never thought of looking for it at low elevations; as it was I believe given out to be a native of high places. Of birds, Bucco, Picus intermedius, green pigeon, azure shrikelet, occurred.

_May 17th_.--Murichom is a small village of eight or nine thatched houses, it is well and prettily situated: about it maize and wheat are in cultivation, Ficus, Hoya, Dendrobium, Croton malvaefolius, Meliacea, Cedrela Toona, orange, Verbesina, Datura, Artemisia major, Echites, in fact it would be difficult to point out an elevational plant. The same remark applies to the march to Gygoogoo, distant twelve miles, and situated 500 feet below the road, but still it is about the same level as Murichom. The march commenced with a steep descent, followed by a steeper ascent, then winding along, in and out, at an average elevation of 5,000 feet. The road was very bad, rocky and rugged as usual, P. and B. pa.s.sed the village, and pushed on to Buxa, a distance of twenty miles, which place they reached at 7 P.M. At Murichom, Ficus cordata, fructibus pyriformibus, Clerodendron infortunata, Adamia, Spilanthes, Melastoma malabathrica, Bignonia, Pentaptera. The Oollook or Simia Hylobates, of Upper a.s.sam.

Scarcely any thing worth noticing occurred; the vegetation being precisely the same. No oaks or chesnuts, at least comparatively few: Elaeocarpus, Rhus, Gordonia are the most common trees; Pythonium common, Hoya rotundifolia. Gygoogoo, a small village of two or three houses, was pa.s.sed.

_May 18th_.--Marched to Buxa, ascending from Gygoogoo over a wretched rocky road, winding in and out. No water was to be had until we reached a ridge from which to Buxa is one continued descent. This ridge is between 5 and 6,000 feet, and yet there is scarcely a change in the vegetation. Pythonium abounded, especially P. majus, which literally occurred in profusion. The trees towards the top of the ridge were covered with moss, but all appeared subtropical; a few chesnuts, E.

spinosissima occurred, Bambusa nodosis, verticillatis, and spinosis.

En route thither, Pholidota imbricata, Thib. loranthiflora, Aralia terebinthacea, Rottleria foliis peltatis, Ranunculus of Taseeling, Menisc.u.m majus, Byttneria ferox, Caladium foliis medio discoloratis saepius atratis, Gnetum, Ixora, Choulmoogra, Phlogacanthi sp., Corisanthes of Sudya, Acer platanifolia, Croton foliis oblongis irregularis dentato-lobatis occurred before, between 2,500 to 3,500 feet, Calamus, wild plantains as before, Gordonia, Rhus, Mimosa, Rottleria, Wallichia, Sida cuneata, Tradescantia cordata, AEschynanthus fulgens, et altera, Tupistra, Lobelia baccifera, Costus, tree-fern, as high as 5,000 feet, Bambusa fasciculata; of birds, the large Bucco.

At 5,000 feet, Thibaudia serrata, and on this side, as low as 2,500 feet, myrtifolia, Gordonia, Pythonium majus and medium, cinnamon, Piper, Acer platanifolia, Mucuna, Angiopteris, Saurauja ferruginea.

At 5,300 feet, Polygonia pinnatifolia, Hookeria macrophylla, Aralia scandens, etc. as before.

On descent nothing remarkable, except steepness: same vegetation.

Pythonium majus not below 3,000 feet, Guttiferae at 3,000 feet, Acanthaceae, Carduaceus 2,800 feet.

At 2,500 feet, Buchanania undulata, Hyalostemma undulatum, Roydsia.