Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 43

_26th_.--Leaving Bush.o.r.e, we proceeded to Joke, which we reached late, it being nineteen miles: we lost the road however, which is in a direct line only sixteen miles. We soon came on a nullah, or ca.n.a.l, which we followed to Meerpore, a rather large double village, with a nice grove of _Furas_, situated on the dry river Naree, which is as contemptible in size as deficient in water, this is only procurable by digging wells of thirty feet deep, and even then in small quant.i.ty. Before reaching it, we pa.s.sed several villages, mostly deserted and ruined.

The country is frightfully bare of wood; the chief plant is Chenopodium cymbifolium, and along the ca.n.a.l lemon gra.s.s, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, _Joussa_, _Ukko_, _Bheir_, etc.; near Meerpore a Centaurea, and Evolvulus acanthaceus. But along the nullah some wood may be found, stunted though it be, it is chiefly _Rairoo_. We left Meerpore and proceeded about one and a half mile from Joke, following the nullah until we came on a ca.n.a.l in which, from a bund having been thrown across, there was a puddle or two of water. Here we halted. Much remains of cultivation is presented about this, chiefly _Bagree_, which is perennial. Durand tells me that the sprouts of the second year are poisonous to cattle, i.e. horses; but this report may have been given out purposely by the natives. Along the river, _Jhow_ and _Furas_ occur, in the naked plains, Chenopodium cymbifolium, _Rairoo_, and a few _Kureel_, but they are so naked as to afford little fodder for the camels: there is a little cultivation of mustard, and _Taira meera_. The hills are about twenty miles off, and appear about 4,000 feet high, they are precipitous, but the outline is not rugged: they appear perfectly barren. Those to the north which run nearly east and west are more distant. No new birds were seen; rock pigeons occur. The soil would be rich if water were abundant: in the _Bagree_ fields it is of a cloddy kind.

Reseda, Euphorbia, Salsola lanata, Chenopodium cymbifolium, Evolvulus, Panic.u.m, and Andropogon occur here. _Jowaree_ sells at twelve seers a rupee, and _Khurbee_ is very dear. A large plain occurs here covered with Gramen Panic.u.m, which is in tufts, and has the appearance of being cultivated.

_27th_.--Halted at our camp near Joke. The Naree runs one and a half mile to the westward: its bed is fifty yards wide and about ten feet deep; the banks are well clothed with _Furas_. There is a good deal of _Bagree_ cultivation.

_28th_.--To _Oostadkote_, nine and a half miles. The road is not a made one for the latter one-third. Crossed the Naree about two miles from our encampment: the country appeared the same. On arriving near our halting place, green wheat fields, intermixed with much fresh Chenopodium, Gramen Panic.u.m, Reseda were most abundant, Chloroideum, Sinapis, Rapha.n.u.s cultivated with _Taira meera_, two Cruciferous plants common, Salsola lanata also occurs. Water abundant in a channel of fifteen yards wide and three feet deep, clear and tasteless. _Furas_ the most common shrub.

No gra.s.s occurs but the remains of Panic.u.m. Wheat is here sown in drills, in some places the crop is promising. The country is evidently occasionally overflowed, witness the indurated surface and the fissures, which away from the road, renders it bad for camels, being full of holes.

There are several villages visible round our camp, all of the usual miserable description, and there is a good deal of _Bagree_ cultivation.

The water does not extend more than a mile; it is eight feet deep, and about twenty yards wide towards the head, where the bund is thrown across.

_March 1st_.--To Bagh nine and a half miles. The country is quite similar: the chief plants continue to be Chenopodium cymbifolium, _Kureel_, a _Rairoo_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, and Salsola robusta, but occur in no great plenty, they and all the face of the country exhibit marks of inundation. Bagh is visible a long way off from its being ornamented with a gamboge, or ochre-wash, otherwise its aspect is poor and muddy. We came on the Naree about three miles from the town, and as it has been bunded, it is full of clearish blue water, to a good depth. We encamped about one and a half mile on the south side of the town. About the head of the bund there is a good deal of wheat cultivation, and some mustard.

In these _khets_ Reseda is very abundant, Heliotrope is also common; I picked up a Matthiola and a Pommereulla. The banks of the Naree are clothed with small _Furas_, which in these parts are always encrusted with saline matter, or, as it would seem, pure salt. Rock pigeons both sorts, Loodianah rats, etc.

Bagh is celebrated for gunpowder; it is a largish, straggling, but poor place, though thickly tenanted. Its lat.i.tude is 29 degrees 1' 20", and is placed thirty miles too far south in Ta.s.sin's last map. Sugar-candy from Bussorah and cloth, are the princ.i.p.al articles sold.

_4th_.--Marched sixteen miles to Mysoor: direction at first NNW. and latterly west, close to the Brahorck hills. Water is plentiful in bunds and river, but the country is very very bare, Salicornia robusta uncommon, Plantago canescens, Poa, Cynodon, _Ukko_ is very common, otherwise _Kureel_ is the predominant plant. A good deal of wheat cultivation, every thing depends on water: the wheat along watercourses is luxuriant, but where water is less plentiful, stunted: soil the same, a tenacious sandy clay when wet: fields very free from weeds. Reseda very common, but very small, Heliotropium ditto, Crucifera hispida ditto.

Green wheat a maund for a rupee. The road or rather country, is intersected here and there by ravines.

_5th_.--Halted. The nearest range of hills are six miles off, they have a very peculiar irregular brown appearance. The higher ones also have a similar appearance; these appear quite precipitous, and have in some parts a curious crenated outline. The chief vegetation about this place is _Kureel_, especially along the river and towards the bund, which last is well filled with water. _Kureel_, _Furas_, _Ukko_, very common, Cynodon, Prenanthoid, Poa minima, _Joussa_, f.a.gonia, Saccharum, Nerioid.

In the water Scirpus, Cyperaceus, Charae two species, Potomogeton two species, Valisnaria, Typha. On banks, Plantago cana, a curious _Sileneacea_, a splendid Orobanche, and a Bra.s.sicacea.

The birds continue the same: there is abundance of Fulica, swarms of waterfowl, herons, plovers, etc.; starlings re-appear.

Some wheat fields well irrigated; most luxuriant _Khujoors_, radishes.

_6th_.--Marched to Nowshera, sixteen miles: five first miles across a plain scantily furnished with _Kureel_. Sturt tells me the country looks quite a desert to the eastward from one of the hills. Thence we came on the hills, through which and the dividing valleys we proceeded for two miles, thence emerging into a narrow valley in which Nowshera is situated, drained by the river of Mysoor, which is an insignificant running stream.

The hills are very curious, totally bare of vegetation, not more than two or three stunted Chenopodium cymbifolium being seen on or about them.

They do not exceed 300 feet in height; their composition is various; they are much worn by rain, and the outline although generally sharp, is often rounded. They present great variety, but chiefly are of a soft clayish looking substance, distinctly enough stratified, the uppermost strata being indurated and often quite smooth, and of a sub-ochreous appearance.

The outer ridges on each side of the range slope gradually outwards, and the surface in these slopes is smooth. Inside, or towards the inner part of the range, they are generally precipitous, but beyond the uppermost strata, the exposed face is not indurated, hence this can scarcely arise from exposure to the weather. In these places they look much like sandstone, the fragments at the base of the cliffs are clayey, mixed with brown angular ma.s.ses, occasionally s.h.i.+ngle, and indeed, a low ridge near the north side of the range is chiefly of s.h.i.+ngle. The direction is NNE., the angle of inclination of the slopes say 30 degrees. The hills are highest towards the centre, and here some of the strata are curved.

The plain between this and the main range is much broken by ravines caused by rain; it is thinly covered with _Kureel_, Salsola robusta, Chenopodium, etc. The vegetation along the river is the same as at Mysoor. Durand finds nummulites, but thinks them brought down by the river. The strata or rather debris of slips often intersected by nearly erect projecting lines of a fibrous d.y.k.e. There is some wheat cultivation in the fields, a new Plantago, a Ruta, Silenacea, a curious Composita, two Boragineae, Phalaris, Phleum, Avena, two or three Crucifera, Trigonella, and Melilotus are to be found. The vegetation elsewhere is much the same, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_, Chenopodium, Lycium albidum re-occurs.

_7th_.--Proceeded to Dadur, a distance of seven and a half miles, nearly north. The country is a good deal cut up by water: within two and a half miles of Dadur we crossed the Naree, a running stream, with small boulders, and high clayey banks. The country improves towards Dadur, topes becoming more frequent. Salsola lanata abundant: a good deal of cultivation occurs along the river.

_10th_.--Dadur is a good sized, and more orderly looking place than Bagh, and is ornamented with well wooded gardens, among which the _Khujoor_ holds a conspicuous place. An elegant and large _Bheir_ and a Mimosa, are two other trees of the place; it is situated on the left bank of the Bolan river. The bed of this river until the Levee bund was cut, had been dry, but there is now plenty of water in it. It is in some places much choked by bulrushes, etc., it is eighty yards broad, and is s.h.i.+ngly.

Dadur stands nearly on the end of a good sized plain, surrounded on all sides by hills, of which those traversed to Nowshera, run NNE. and are lowest. The main range is four or five miles off. The greater part of this plain is uncultivated and covered with _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Joussa_, Sal. lanata, and Chenopodium; but along the sides of the river, as well as near that crossed en route to this place from Nowshera, there is a highly luxuriant cultivation of wheat, bearded and beardless, and barley.

In some places near the town, are rich gardens of _sonff_, coriander, _Mola_, cress, onions, carrots, beet, among which a few poppies and Cannabis occur. These, as well as the fields, are protected with loose _Bheir_ fences. There are a few small villages around, all of the same kucha or temporary construction, together with some remains of cotton, which in these parts is perennial.

There are no wild trees to be found, excepting perhaps an elegant species of willow. The vegetation of the fields is highly interesting, consisting of many European forms, similar to those at Nowshera--Avena, Phleum, Polygonium, Zanthoxyloid, Erodium! Anagallis in abundance, Plantago, _Pecagee_, Cynodon two species, Andropogon, Melilotus, Medicago, Boraginea, Malva, Tetragonolotus, Astragaloides, Sperguloides, Cruciferae.

In the bed of the river Nerium, Paederioides, Crotalaria, etc. of which the former is common every where: f.a.gonia, Viola found in the bed of the river crossed en route hither, a very curious plant. Antirrhenoid was brought from the hills by Capt. Sanders, singular in the inequality of the calyx and the great development of the posticous sepal.

Altogether this spot is curious in regard to vegetation, for the mean annual temperature must be high, and the winter temperature by no means low enough to account for the appearance presented.

The only novel birds are a jackdaw, with the voice and manners of the red- billed Himalayan species, and which I have only seen at a distance, and a different sort of Pterocles.

_11th_.--Proceeded to Drubbee, eight miles from Dadur, and about three within the range of hills, the plain towards which is rather elevated, and generally covered with boulders and s.h.i.+ngle. The vegetation of this s.h.i.+ngly plain is much the same, Chenopodium, _Ukko_, Salsola, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_; the most common shrubby plant, however, is an elegant Mimosa, much like the _Babool_, with white thorns; Nerium oleander is also very common along cuts.

In some wheat fields I procured Imperata, a new Plantago, and a curious Gnaphalium. The entrance to the pa.s.s is gradual; the hills almost entirely bare. I noticed _Rairoo_, Salvadora, _Kureel_. The most novel plant is a curious, erect, bushy, th.o.r.n.y Convolvulus, which is one of the most common plants farther in. The pa.s.s to Drubbee is wide, say 300 yards; the only obstacle exists in the s.h.i.+ngle, which renders the road heavy. No abutments are present, jutting out from the hills, the stream is considerable but easily fordable, and abounds with fish, the Mahaseer, and two or three species of Gonorhynchus. The hills about Drubbee are not more than 500 feet high. They are generally of a coa.r.s.e breccia, the component parts princ.i.p.ally limestone; abundance of nummulites. The chief vegetation of the pa.s.s is one or two Andropogoneous gra.s.ses, and Apocynum nerioides. There is absolutely no fodder for camels, which however, take readily to gra.s.s. Towards the mouth of the pa.s.s, Paederia involucrata, Villarsia, Lycioid, Stenophyllum and _Ukko_ are common, but they are rare inside, although the last continues some distance up the hills and attains a large size, becoming quite arboreous. A Crucifera, a rhubarby sorrel, a Goodyera, and one or two gra.s.ses, were the only additional novelties met with.

_12th_.--Marched on eight miles, after five of which we turned to the right, and the pa.s.s became and continued narrow, until we reached our halting place, which is something like what we may suppose to be the remains of a mountain, still a good deal elevated above the bed of river.

The mountains continued the same in the gorge, until we came to limestone cliffs, which afforded a peculiar vegetation, Linaria retephioides, Linaria alia pusilla foliis 5-gonis cordatis, floribus luteis minutis p.u.b.escens, specimen lost, one or two Rubiaceae, a Salvia, several very interesting gra.s.ses, among which is a Stipa, a Composita, Santanoides, a curious Capparidea, Ca.s.sia, etc. etc.

The hills have increased in height, in many places they were extremely picturesque, split and divided in every direction. The valley running off to south on our entrance into the gorge: river diminished somewhat in size. Jheely spots, with very deep water common, surrounded with thick Andropogon, Typha and Scirpus jungle. Few fish were seen and none taken.

Can the Mahaseer not reach this? Gonorhynchus continue, but they never take a fly; Ophiocephalus, _Sowlee_; turtle caught by bearers, Silurus.

No less than twenty-three plants novel to me were gathered on the limestone, which looks as bare as the breccia; all its plants grew in small tufts or singly, and all adhered firmly to the rock. The only tree which continues is _Phulahi_ or _Rairoo_; Convolvulus spinosus very common, a very curious Chenopodioid, Reseda with Cruciferous qualities.

_13th_.--Proceeded to Gurmab, eight and a half miles. Country continues the same. The defile after crossing some rather broad water three feet deep, opened out into a rather large valley, near the south end of which Gurmab is situated, and it is _ornamented_ with a good many _Rairoo_ trees, of indifferent size and appearance. No change whatever in the vegetation; Salsola prima occurs sparingly.

_14th_.--Halted at Gurmab. The hills close to our encampment are of limestone, which is in many places very angular. Oolite found by Durand in a low range, standing by itself in the valley, it generally bears a vast quant.i.ty of nummulites and madrepores. A flat discoid organized remain occurs in abundance, and probably belongs to the same group.

_Ukko_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_ rare, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankenioides, Stipaceum gramen, Euphorbia, Polygonum rheoides, Salvadora, may be found.

Along the water Andropogonoides 2, Typha, Arundo, Juncus, Scirpus juncinus in abundance. In the water, a new Naias, and Conferveae. In a ravine near our camp, I found a Cynoglossum and a curious Periploceous plant, in habit approaching to certain Aphyllous, true Asclepiads.

A few stunted dates are visible near Gurmab, which is three miles from Kirtah, and towards the deep water there is a ruin of a single house.

_Rairoo_, Nerioid, and Lycium albidum are the most common ground plants.

There is only _Rairoo_ for camels, who do not thrive on harsh gra.s.ses, although compelled by hunger to eat them. Large flocks of Doombah sheep and goats belonging to Khelat men were met with. Mahaseer in abundance, and very greedy after a red hackle of fish, Macrognathus and Opheocephalus occur also. Of birds the white vulture, Alauda cristata et alia, with a notched beak, a partridge which I had not previously seen, Motacilla alia.

_15th_.--Proceeded to Beebee Nanee, nine and a half miles up the valley in which Gurmab is situated. The road tolerably level and good; boulders not however common. The village of Kuttah, is one mile to the right, consisting of one ruined house; near the exit from the valley a burial ground occurs, having flags, or banners, pointing out the graves, which are covered with heaps of stones. The exit from the valley is by a narrow pa.s.s through a low range of angular limestone, thence up another narrow s.h.i.+ngly valley or narrowish gorge, and over a small stream of water of ordinary temperature, where we encamped: in the second valley two spots were observed covered with graves. Immense flocks of birds were seen on the range to the west of the valley. In the first valley Paederia involucrata and Salsola prima, are the most common plants. On the limestone hills, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankeniacea, Plantago villosa, and a curious Composita, subacaulis, involucro foliaceo, of which the single specimen has been lost, a few _Bheirs_.

Encamped in a small valley or pa.s.s leading to Khelat, a marked one only a few hundred yards wide. To the west, the hills continue very barren.

Gurmab--this takes its name from the warmth of the water, which apparently rises in several sedgy spots; the united waters form a small stream abounding with Mahaseer, Barbus, etc. and falling into another stream, again meets the main river, which runs off to the eastward from the place where it is crossed towards Gurmab. There is no sign of bubbling in the springs, although the water commences to run visibly from within a few yards. The temperature of one did not vary from 76 degrees, which must be about the mean temperature of the place, but the temperature of a deep body of water after the confluence of several springs was 82 degrees, so that some of them must hence be of considerable temperature: the highest examined was 81 degrees.

Of three springs examined--the first of these had a temperature of 82 degrees Fahr.--the second of 77 degrees, these unite to form the streamlet that runs towards the east--the third spring had a temperature of 77 degrees: this is crossed on entering the valley from the south, it runs under a limestone range, and then bends off to the south-east to unite with the main stream. Cyprinus fulgens and C. bimaculatus were found in the 82 degrees spring. From the variation in the temperature of the three, it is obvious that neither represents the mean temperature of the place.

_16th_.--To Abigoom, eight and a quarter miles, through a similar country up a valley in a NNW. direction; the valley is narrowed towards the middle, and is a plain of considerable inclination, the chief rocks pa.s.sed are limestones. No fodder for camels, and little enough on the road for horses; the chief vegetation consisting of Nerioides, Paederia involucrata, and small tufts of _Kuss-kuss_ gra.s.s; Ruwash is common, Lycium alb.u.m; Salsola prima are not common, and the _Bheir_ is rare. A new and curious plant looking like _Kureel_ was found, male flowers with large semi-antheriferous bearing disc. Apocynum viminale not uncommon, and not ruined by cattle, Prenanthoid albiflora, Echinopsides, a fine Begonia, B. punicoides, arbuscula; Salvadora also occurred. The inclined valleys are very s.h.i.+ngly and bouldery. The mountains as barren as ever.

There is at Beebee Nanee a running streamlet, in which small Mahaseer, Nepuroid, Gonorhynchus and Barbus may be found; also a species of Cancer.

We were encamped close to the cliffy termination of a limestone range, in which Linaria, Trichodesma, Cynoglossum, Ruwash, l.a.b.i.ata, and a most singular Telepheoid polygalous looking plant were found. There is some fodder along the water for horses, but for camels scarcely any: we accordingly lose six to ten camels now daily. There was a curious echo from the cliff.

_17th_.--To-day we halt at Abigoom, which is at the extremity of an inclined plain, and 2,500 feet above the sea; some of the boundary hills are considerably higher, the valley is s.h.i.+ngly and bouldery, covered with the usual plants, but more scantily: Nerioid, Paederia involucrata, Lycium albidium, Apocynum viminale.

I went to some wheat cultivation yesterday afternoon about two and a half miles off, in a small valley to the south-east. The wheat was fine, all bearded, most of the Dadur plant occurred in it with some curious novelties, Boraginea, Cynoglossum, Compositae, Cuscuta, and a new Reseda.

The Melilotus and red Anchusoid were not found, Plantago, were among the most abundant. A single _Furas_ tree and some _Kureel_ were seen near the wheat. The weather unsettled; cloudy; rain fell at night and early this morning. A _cafilah_ or caravan from Candahar with figs and raisins pa.s.sed us. Rock pigeon of Loodianah and the small partridge were observed. There is a streamlet here.

_18th_.--Detained by bad weather, which threatened the whole of yesterday. The river came down during the night, flooded, and upset some of the tents, damaging many things, but not carrying off much. It rained smartly almost the whole night: we moved this morning to rather higher ground, but not so high as to preclude all danger should the river rise again. A dawk man arrived last night, bringing a handful of tulips which he said came from Shal; it is a small species, foliis subtortis undulatis caule 1-flora, flore amplo aureo subodora.

_19th_.--Advanced to Sirekhugoor, distance nineteen miles, ascent throughout on a considerably inclined plain up the bed of a river, s.h.i.+ngly and bouldery; the pa.s.s is not much contracted, but a short distance from Abigoom we parted from every thing like valleys. The vegetation continues much the same: _Kureel_, Salsola prima re-occurred near Abigoom but sparingly, chief vegetation consists of clumps of withered coa.r.s.e Andropogons, Nerioides, Paederia, and Lycium, but less common than before, while Apocynum viminale, and Convolvulus spinosus have increased. The bed of the streamlet is until near Sirekhugoor, chiefly occupied by a large Arundo just past flowering, in which Typha also occurs sparingly: within 300 feet of the halting place, a solitary _Khujoor_, and some wheat cultivation occurs, the latter much behind that of Abigoom. In the fields Polygala occurred with a Galium; the most common plant being a Sinapis found at Dadur: some _Bheir_ trees also occur here; a few Compositae, l.a.b.i.atae, and Cruciferae, similar to those at Abigoom, are also found: the novelties were _Peganum_ which continues throughout the pa.s.s, Hyoscyamoid, and one or two Compositae; while in water-courses close to it the first dripping rocks occurred covered with Adiantum and fructiferous mosses, and a curious Primuloid plant out of flower, with a curious Clematis.

The halting place is at the head of the stream, which gushes copiously out of a rock; the bed of the river or defile is 100 yards wide: the mountains immediately adjoining not exceeding 1,000 feet in height, but the second range is much higher, that to our north being plentifully sprinkled with snow. These mountains are barren, chiefly covered with Convolvulus spinosus, which has a different aspect, with a Sytisoid, handsome silvery shrub, a species of Caragana and Apocynum viminale: about the spring and in other places there are thick patches of a very dwarf palm, and a solitary fig tree, a Lycium alb.u.m continues: the bed occupied by tufts of coa.r.s.e Andropogons and Apocynum viminale; about the spring Adiantum, a small Boraginia, white flowered small Compositae, a withered Hepatic.u.m, two or three efructiferous mosses, and the Primuloid plant. In the stream Chara, Conferva, Peppermint, _Beccabunga_, Convolvulus, like C. reptans, Arundo left behind nearly. On the mountains fragrant l.a.b.i.atae, Compositae, and Umbelliferae are commencing.

The barometer stood at 25.669; thermometer 64 degrees at 11 A.M. Many soft rocks occurred: pa.s.sed a clayey looking one, with very elevated strata, containing veins of transverse crystals: the sides of the defile are often precipitous, these are generally formed of conglomerate.

_20th_.--Continued up the same defile, a gradual ascent, and about two miles from Sirekhugoor entered the pa.s.s by pre-eminence; very much narrowed, precipitous cliffs on both sides: this continues for some time.

The road good, s.h.i.+ngly, but not very bouldery; very winding, and generally capable of strong defence; much cover exists from the rugged margins of cliffs, and windings of the road. The mountains, after four or five miles were pa.s.sed, gradually receded and became less precipitous: at length we came to gradually rounded more distant mountains; then to a small valley; then ascended say 100 feet, over a low rocky range, and descended into a fine valley, surrounded by usual barren looking mountains: high ranges to the north and south covered with snow presenting a beautiful view--and now entered Khora.s.san. We were accompanied by several bands of a gypsyish-looking people, forming parts of a _cafilah_. They were accompanied with numerous goats: and camels ornamented with trappings.

Throughout the very narrow portion of the pa.s.s the vegetation continues the same: at Sirekhugoor a Xanthoxylon appears and continues nearly throughout: this and an oleinous looking small tree are the only arborescent plants: Apocynum viminale and the other plants of Sirekhugoor continue, nor did I notice any new ones further than a Sedum, and Tortula. However fragrant l.a.b.i.atae and Compositae increase in number, but none are in flower.