Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 50

Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravine that debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feet above the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across.

The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricot trees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are not productive.

Timber is cut in good quant.i.ties, and is floated down in the spring to Cabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans, Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after selling their produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages.

The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as in Europe by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind, the coa.r.s.e chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about the same height as the pa.s.s into the valley of the Cabul river.

English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained all provisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared to Cabul.

The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiae one or two, some Carduaceae. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophae and roses, Salvia very common to-day; a.s.ses were seen laden with dried _Ruwash_ leaves.

_28th_.--To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up the Sir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still following the princ.i.p.al streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful _kila_, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along the same ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or six miles, pa.s.sing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it, and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, still continuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left, pa.s.sing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest.

Barometer 20.365: thermometer 80 degrees at 10.5 A.M.; after this we descended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep, having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to the north, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stony ridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near a green wet spot, visible for some distance.

The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the last kotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough for camels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravine not unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, but gradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a different country, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10,000 feet), longly _undulated_, the mountains generally ma.s.sive, rounded, here and there rising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is a fine ridge not under 14,000 or 15,000 feet, rugged with spots of snow; the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestone abundant, but not a tree from the base of the 1st ascent. The ascent is very practicable, the road is made, or artificial in many places, soil soft and broken: there is water at seven miles from Sir-i-Chushme, and even at the foot of the 1st kotal, at least there are two or three of the usual villages; there is one with its wall demolished. Many granite blocks are strewed on the road. For ponies and horses, even laden, the road is very easy, but for draft it is difficult. We experienced a cold cutting west wind from 11 A.M. Gra.s.s is plentiful along all the moist spots, but it is useless as the camels prefer the Carduacea of this place, though a bad fodder for them.

[Sir-i-Chushme ridges: m392.jpg]

Not much change was observed in the vegetation for half-way up the 1st kotal or ascent; willows and poplars continue to nearly one mile from the last village. Here and there along the ravine or streamlet, Salvia is very common, Senecionoides, Bubonoides on rocky ground, Sinapis, Verbasc.u.m decurrens used in the Himalayas for German tinder, Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Muscoides of yesterday, Urtica of Cabul, Malva rotundifolia, Hyoscyamus 1-l.a.b.i.at., Polygonum prostratum of s.h.i.+ngly spots, Composita dislocata, Leucades, Boraginea, Boraginis fasciae _of_ _before_. About Kila Moostaffur Khan a coa.r.s.e tufted gra.s.s, Centaurea oligantha common throughout, first found at Khilat-i-Gilzee; Onosma major, Cochlearia, Dianthoides. Chenopodium diclinum, villosa, Astragali 2-3, Cichorum, Linaria angustifolia, Euphorbia angustifolia, Marrabium, Hyoscyamus of Quettah, Testucoides annua appears about here, Epilobium minus, Rumex, Lactuca fol. cost. subtus spinosis, Melilotus, Silene angulata, Arenaria, calyce globoso inflato, Echinops of Cabul. The water plants are precisely the same as those of Cabul.

For new plants see Catalogue 980, etc.

Summit of 1st kotal Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Statice grandiflora, Dianthoides, several Astragali, one with the pinnulae dentato serratis, petiola spinosa, a tufted Monocotyledonous plant with terete ca.n.a.liculate subulate leaves, _Salvia_, Gramen alterum, Composita dislocata, Carduacea, this is the most common plant on the open rounded parts, while the others occupy the rocky sides of the hills. The vegetation is however very poor.

Cultivation various, as seen in different stages along the gorge up to the ascent. Thus, people are seen ploughing for the next year's crops amidst stubble fields, and lucerne; but above and throughout the ascent, no crops are cut, while the wheat and barley on the descent are in the ear: mustard very common. Several encampments of what are badly called black teal, and paths are to be seen very frequently over the hills in most directions, together with flocks of sheep. A large road leading off to the south-west from the summit is seen; from this our road is well- marked.

_29th_.--Halted: every tillable spot is made use of about Yonutt, where there is a fort with forty families. The crops are chiefly wheat and a four-awned barley, the grain is fine though scanty, and the plants are of stunted growth. Ravens the same, round-tailed eagle as at Urghundee, and Percnopterus, wagtails, three kinds of Conirostres, and an Alauda are found here, one or two Sylviae. The sward about this place is abundant, affords good pasturage for a few horses, and water is plentiful. This sward is chiefly occupied by a Leguminous Caraganoid shrub, rather th.o.r.n.y, and not unlike some species of Barberry in habit, this is abundant, and is first met with in the ravines beyond the Oonnoo pa.s.s, Cyperaceae, viz. 2-3, Carices, small gra.s.ses, Leontodon, Astragaloid caerulens, Trifolium alb.u.m, Composita corona, Cnicus acaulis, and Gentiana pusilla, compose the sward chiefly; in the drier parts of it there is a very fine Carduacea, which appears very local.

The hills about are all either clay slate, pure slate, or micaceous slate, the strata generally vertical.

Descended the ravine which the rivulet pa.s.ses down, to where it joins the Helmund, the hills bounding it are of no great height, but the slips are sometimes bold. The Helmund runs between rocky cliffs, its bed not much broader than the stream, the water is clear, rapid, and the column considerable.

This gorge is picturesque, the sides being generally precipitous.

The plants of these hills are, Umbelliferae very common, Statice 2, Carduacea, Ephedra, l.a.b.i.atae of Karabagh vel similia, Arenarioid out of flower in the crevices, a large Mattheoloid, Leucades, Dianthoides foliis undulatis, Artemisiae two or three, one a peculiar one, No.--a shrubby Astragalus, stunted scraggy Polanisia of Cabul? Campanula of Karabagh in the bed of the stream, Cnicus of Kot-i-Ashruf, and Salvia are excessively common, Artemisia pyramidalis, two or three: mosses occur on the banks, and several Gramineae, see Catalogue 1,005, etc. Cnicus alius, Verbasc.u.m.

[Helmund gorge: m393.jpg]

_30th_.--We continued ascending gradually, crossing a low ridge covered with sward, and then descended to surmount another ridge, which appeared to me to be as high as the top of the Oonnoo. We thence descended, crossing several small ridges; and, at about the distance of five miles from the commencement of the day's journey, suddenly turned north, entering a gorge of the usual structure, drained by a small stream, and thence came on the Helmund, not much increased in size as compared with the point at which we had seen it first, but in a comparatively wide and partly cultivated ravine, containing three or four ruined forts. We continued a quarter of a mile down the Helmund, then ascended up a considerable stream through a similar gorge, until we reached an encamping spot, after performing thirteen and a half miles. The barometer at the Helmund stood at 21.206, thermometer 63 degrees in sun.

Kohi-Baba is first seen from the first ridge, but it is seen beautifully from the second, and still better from some distance beneath this; it is a n.o.ble three-peaked ridge, the eastern peak is the largest, and of angular, conical shape. The other two are rugged; the central one is perhaps the highest; the lower portions cliffy, evidently slaty.

The river up which we came after leaving the Helmund, is fully equal to that in size; it is very rapid: the ravine is very narrow, occasionally widening into swardy spots. We encamped nearly opposite Kohi-Baba, the conical peak of which here seems a huge rounded ma.s.s, with heavy patches of snow, particularly along the northern ridge: the second range to the south is very precipitous and cliffy: at this place a small streamlet falls into the river from the direction of Kohi-Baba.

No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferae, a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliis anguste loratis, Potentilla, _Panserina_, a new Graminea.

The most common plants are still Carduaceae and Salvia; Rosa occurs also, (Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common, Verbasc.u.m, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change in water plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. faemin. villos, coa.r.s.e gra.s.s, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is _Ruwash_, the dead red leaves of which are abundant. Two villages were pa.s.sed after leaving the Helmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer.

Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river.

A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces all the way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation became rich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across a narrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep; near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, a new Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or two Compositae, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three or four Umbelliferae, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pa.s.s, two or three new Leguminosae, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium may be found among them, or in the fields close by.

_31st_.--We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, and continued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is too narrow for a road: we pa.s.sed two or three villages, the road undulating over ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small ma.s.ses, rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation is covered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we came on the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, used as a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arak road continuing along the river. We pa.s.sed another fort, and then commenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feet above us, was a large ma.s.s of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot of main ascent 20.320, thermometer 80 degrees. The ascent is rather steep, but easy enough: barometer 19.755, thermometer 80 degrees. Thence the descent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or five more, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pa.s.s we had a beautiful view of the _ridge_ of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW., presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical ma.s.s was not seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts of the ridge.

Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are covered with swardy gra.s.s. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt, consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Boulders of antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our camp composed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill near us, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A _cafila_ pa.s.sed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried on a.s.ses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort.

The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardy spots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices, Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snow in sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum on the dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferae, Echinops, Carduaceae, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata, Rutacea about springs, Parna.s.sia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long past this elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides.

See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminae 998, Carduaceae very common, Statice aliae rare.

The hill over which the pa.s.s runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceous Carduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, an Artemisioid, small Compositae, and the abundant Carduaceae of Yonutt, Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, _Koollah hujareel_, Statice, Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamea leaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenaria spinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus.

Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in the comparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali.

Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pa.s.s, a large Swertia, Caraganoid, Carices, etc. as before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a new Potentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I have seen in Khora.s.san: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower.

On the 1st of Sept., I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again into the snow ravine from the top of the pa.s.s, and found a number of plants, for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12,400 feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, and would repay two or three days' halt, as it runs a long way up the antimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fine Conyzoidia.

I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch of snow in r.e.t.a.r.ding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were a spring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all past seed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower sooner at such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, here past flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant will flower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring such plants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea is perhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of the sun.

_September 1st_.--After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march to Sohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerable descent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted to the west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction; towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, pa.s.sing across a land slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a great rate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almost precipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and other boulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrent comes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easy descent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along left bank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hills on the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself is infamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticable for wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we pa.s.sed through, the rocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic looking stone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leading up to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted.

A good many villages, with forts, as usual were pa.s.sed; the cultivation more advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley.

One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite the direction of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well marked road is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation than that which we crossed.

Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towards Sohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivation consisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freed from the husk.

The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatly tired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematis erecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant, Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum faemin. Dianthus, Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle, Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocks about camp, 2 Salsolae, Glauc.u.m, Umbelliferae of the Yonutt ravine, Artemisiae, Rosa _Ribes_! Scrophularia alia.

The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices, in some parts pa.s.sable without wetting the feet.

_2nd_.--From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. The road lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turning up a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, then levellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper but longer ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; two other moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is 500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep and most tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the road wound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near the village. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, that of the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, both might with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent.

The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A.M., stood at 19.513, at 11.5 A.M., 19.506, Thermometer 66 degrees.

The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, the descent was more tiring than the ascent.

From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. by N. To the NE., another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, was seen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peaks present themselves, but only visible when lower down.

A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have now obviously pa.s.sed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low and flat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifully varied, presenting rugged outlines 10,000 feet above Bamean, also a view of an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained, with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presenting tints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints are predominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also a view of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a fine gorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north, by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to be seen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribably volcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea of it.

[Bamean Idols: p398.jpg]

To the top of the pa.s.s it is three and a half miles; the character of Kulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded, and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well covered with plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed; immense quant.i.ties of Artemisia, coa.r.s.e tufted gra.s.ses, Onosma, Carduacea herbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fusco purpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravines are all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and no cultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo river which runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetation being distinct on either side.

Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action of water, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: the latter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigan a fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it is perhaps anologous.

About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides, Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiae, Aster pyramidalis, Chenopodium villosum faem., Senecionoides.

Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia, Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferae of Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, l.a.b.i.ata nova, Hyoscyamus minor, Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex, Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides, Statice, _Marmots_, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood, Aconiti sp., Ferula? Spiraea facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides.

First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, one sessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, l.a.b.i.ata trumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenaria spinosa, Tritic.u.m carneo p.u.b.escens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped, Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiraeoides, Chenopodium villos., faemin. parvus, Leguminosae two or three, _Ruwash_ sparingly.