Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 6

During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of _Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are _Damasonium indic.u.m_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum_ _tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_.

_cristata_.

_19th_.--Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P.M.; the cantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter, along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this is the only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there are nothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about .75 of a mile from the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from the point of exit of the former river.

_24th_.--We left the cantonment about 11 A.M., and proceeded down the Burrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more like a net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks are about a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leaving the island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more.

During the dry weather this part of the river is pa.s.sable, and indeed is in some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk across it. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting and new plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the most prominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_ abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commence to be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_, probably an _Aerides_.

The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum_ _spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with.

_26th_.--We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down the Burrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothing but a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_.

The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerous islands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as the Ganges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed.

_27th_.--We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem to call it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? is remarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that of the Burrampooter.

_30th_.--Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left its channel, and up to this morning we have pa.s.sed through a tract of jheels with a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on small eminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usual form, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_, which they tell us are intended to keep out the gra.s.s. We have since entering these jheels pa.s.sed through and between immense beds of vegetation, formed princ.i.p.ally of _Oplismenus_ (Panic.u.m) _stagninus_, _Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia_ _cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. etc.

The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_, Roxb. (sui generis,) and a small gra.s.s intermediate between Panic.u.m and Chamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panic.u.m interruptum_ and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. also occur; the two former in abundance.

On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur, _Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself since the 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at a great distance.

_October 1st_.--We have continued to pa.s.s through immense jheels: about 6 A.M. we arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on the Barak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distance from this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in that direction was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. The ground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appears densely wooded, and to the S.E. rather high hills are visible. Altogether this land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of the great depth of the water, which except in one point has. .h.i.therto always exceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two or three more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is well worthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. is immense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_.

_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded by small rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re- entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated on the left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. During our pa.s.sage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, which do not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainly distinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices.

_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_.--After a residence of 20 days here, I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandia has coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably prove Monocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved a source of great delight, and acc.u.mulation of botanical and geological treasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feet above the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascent which closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situated towards the N. and W., and it is hence about 300 feet higher. The country immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and there a rounded hillock, dest.i.tute of any covering but gra.s.ses and a few low, half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautiful valley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered with jungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side, fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. and S., presents a succession of ravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, along the bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the low country at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent to Churra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles from the cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by a torrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys, that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, and particularly at Moosmai, a.s.sumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, over the brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerable plenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone is best seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet, the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in fact table-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to the Westward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churra is pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coal mines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yet seen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter, gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best c.o.ke.

Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at this season small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; it is then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, the water shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feet below. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height, it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on the precipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at the foot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra,) a tree fern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypod giganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen in somewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have been confined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately around Churra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo, and yet in this very limited s.p.a.ce the profusion of objects has been such as to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The above excursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered a solitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_,) and to the left, and up the broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and between Maamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of which on the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet, although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45.

Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascular fascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often a.s.suming the form of a UU near the circ.u.mference of the very dense cellular tissue of which the axis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an oblique dense ma.s.s of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they are developed in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, give the trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, and will probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that of Cycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenous nature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, or tree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs; these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly on the Tena.s.serim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation.

These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound in caves, and a.s.sume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear to be the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a n.o.ble species with the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They are very rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns I gathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffs in which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churra cantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entrance to Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very few animals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen one small species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer of Mergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with a very bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do not generally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are several species of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I have seen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautiful species of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a pretty king-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, are very scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood- c.o.c.ks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seen only one snipe and one quail.

Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built, squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactly like their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish- looking people, very dirty, and chew p.a.w.n to profusion--they can scarcely be said to form a worthy portion of the gentler s.e.x. They appear to be honest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their European lords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character; every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by the interchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kind of arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by the European invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respect to their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabs of sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they put up three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably, rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, and perhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for their support and supplies, and this is good management since rice at Terrya Ghat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering the cheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annas a day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they have no caste.

The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging from about 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains are said to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencing in April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen or sixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or ten inches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have been here, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of which three were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruption of heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuring every thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breaking up of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked up with dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to that on which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, in the first instance, the plains, or rather the ma.s.s of haze hanging over them, presented a most curious spectacle.

The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th, the thermometer at 8 P.M. being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, as Maamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of wood round the place. {7}

With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is at once indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of gra.s.ses.

Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country, _Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Panda.n.u.s, Eugenia, Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound in the same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and very varied; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by the existence of a species of Illic.u.m, I. khascanam, and several Ternstroemiaceae. The great orders are gra.s.ses, ferns, compositae.

During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink of the table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila_ _Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance of the tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns we found to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention _Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_.

_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_.--On the 2nd, we left for Surureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of a very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree, many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first _Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during our march thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, but not upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainly increased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two great acquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemon which W. has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoining the Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. It is on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make their appearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of the Bogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are very difficult.

Moflong is a bleak exposed village and the bungalow or residence for travellers very bad. The number of European forms we found to increase considerably about this place. The only woods that occur are of fir, but the trees are of no great size; their frequent occurrence, however, stamps a peculiar feature on the scenery. We here experienced nearly three days of continued rain, and, as the place is bleak, we were miserable enough. We left for Myrung on the 9th, and the greater and all the first part of the long march was very uninteresting. At Mumbree, however, there is a decided improvement, and the scenery is very good.

One here notices the occurrence of woods--of oaks, etc., and their form reminded me somewhat of the woods of Buckinghams.h.i.+re. No woods of fir occur; all the trees occurring isolatedly. I should mention that the country between Molee and Moflong is quite peculiar in geological structure, abounding in Cyanite, the ma.s.ses of which are of very considerable size. I imagine that the vegetation farther on in this direction would be more rich in European forms than elsewhere, at least between Churra and Mingklow.

Myrung is certainly far superior in every point to any place that we have yet seen; and, as the climate is peculiarly fine and the bungalow good, the degree of enjoyment is as great as can be expected. The features of the country are similar to those of Mumbree. The groves or woods are composed chiefly of oaks, intermixed with Magnolias, which attain a very large size. These forests seem all to have a northern aspect. Orchideae abound in these woods, and so far as herbaceous forms go, European vegetation is on the decrease. From the bungalow one has occasionally a remarkably fine view of the Himalayas, mountains intercepted by large tracts of very high land, probably Bootan. The coldest weather we have experienced here was when the thermometer sank to 46 degrees; even in the middle of the day the sun is not oppressive. It is singular enough, that the first attempts, so to speak, at a Fauna occur here. The woods abound with small birds. I shot one squirrel, with a very short tail and rounded head. Red deer (the Gyee of the Burmese) occur, though rarely.

Two or three solitary snipes may be found during a day's excursion, and perhaps a brace of quail, which are nearly as large as English partridges. Pheasants are reported to occur in the woods. I should add, that both here and at Nunklow snipe of a very large description, and of the habits of the solitary snipe, are found in small numbers. They are very brown, as large as a wood-c.o.c.k, and their cry is that of a common snipe. Lieutenant Townsend informs me, that these birds are a totally distinct species. Lieutenant Vetch tells me, that the Khasiyas declare that they are the females of the wood-c.o.c.k, in other words, wood-hens, and that in March wood-c.o.c.ks abound in the places with these wood-hens.

He likewise informs me, that the only difference he could ascertain to exist between these birds and wood-c.o.c.ks, consists in their having very short and thick legs.

I have seen two of this particular description, but have never shot any.

[View from Nunklow: p8.jpg]

After Myrung one can speak much less in favour of these hills. Nunklow is a pretty spot, and commands a really magnificent view of the Himalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of a.s.sam.

Altogether this view is the finest which, in my limited experience, I have ever seen: I did not however like Nunklow, nor do my wishes recur to it. {9} The route thither is pretty enough, and not fatiguing. I may mention Nunklow as the station of some fine trees, among which is a Betula, two AEsculi, oaks, etc. in abundance. The pine is in fine order, but not large. Much more cultivation is carried on in this portion of the hills than elsewhere, and paddy is cultivated apparently to some extent. The temperature is much warmer, and the air by no means so bracing as that of Myrung. Perhaps at this place the flora resemble that of lower Himalaya more than other places we have yet seen. The march from Nunklow to Nowgong is very long, and, as we started late, owing partly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, we were most agreeably benighted in the jungle. The descent is very sudden and commences at Nunklow; the valley, on the brink of which it is situated, being perhaps 2000 feet deep. It is in this valley or on its walls that the finest pines we have seen occur, but even here they do not attain a greater height than 60 feet, and perhaps a diameter of a foot or a foot and a half. As Mr. Brown of the Sillet Light Infantry informed me most correctly, many would make fine spars; but Mr. Cracroft's language in one of the Journals of the Asiatic Society when describing these firs, seems rather overwrought. During our march I picked up a pretty species of Sonerila. A small stream runs at the foot of the descent, by what name it goes I know not. Near the Bustapanee, flowing along a valley about two hours' walk from the last mentioned water. Wallich discovered abundance of his favourite and really splendid Polypodium Wallichianum, which I may accuse with justice of being an additional reason for our benightment. The stream is really the only respectable river we have seen, or rather the second one that can be called a torrent, the other being the Bogapanee. It boils along, and the body of water is great, even at the season of the year at which we pa.s.sed it. It has forced enormous holes, frequently round, in the large ma.s.ses of rock that form its bed, and then in and a few yards beyond the bridge of bamboos by which we crossed, it falls, they say, 70 feet into a fine bason, which however is only partly visible from above. They who have been on the edges of this bason say that the fall is really fine; it certainly has not much of this when viewed from above, neither can it, I think, even in the rains come up to Mr. Cracroft's description. Moosmai is, _apres_ _tout_ I will venture to say, the king of the falls between Terrya Ghat and Ranee G.o.down. On the farther side of this water, small trees of Cycas first make their appearance, but we had no time now or rather then to examine any thing. As the shades of evening lengthened we quickened our paces, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in a most rugged road, and when it was dark, after stumbling about a good deal, I made my way to the foot of the descent, and reached a small stream, where we made preparations for a halt, and where we pa.s.sed the night, during which we were treated with a slight shower of rain. As the season was far advanced we all escaped, scot-free, from fever, and reached the Bungalow called Nowgong about 10 o'clock next morning, where we spent the day.

[The village of Nunklow: p11.jpg]

From this time we were, I believe, all anxious to leave the hills, which had lost all their charms, although the vegetation was still more gigantic and interesting. But we were now confined to the road, which is very good, all digressions being prevented by the thickness of the jungles, and then in some places swarms of wild elephants. These animals appear most numerous about Onswye, near which there is a marshy place literally trodden up by them, and their tracks were so fresh that no traces of Wallich or his coolies could be identified, although they had preceded us only about half an hour. It was in this particular place that I gathered a solitary specimen of _Butomus pygmaeus_. Beyond Nowgong, saul first comes into view, and many trees attain a considerable size. Some fine ferns and two beautiful Acanthaceae, I may mention, as collected about that place. We reached Jyrung by an easy march the next day; every step adding only to a greater renewal of acquaintance with old faces, or at least old plain plants. Between Jyrung and the foot of the hills, we fell in with _Henslowia glabra_ in fine flower: Wallich took many fine specimens, all of which were males. This species is, as well as the former, liable to deceive one as to the s.e.x of the plant; but all the seeming ovaries beginning to enlarge are due to insect bites or punctures. To conclude: at the foot of the hills we were embraced with _Marlea Begonifolia_, _Bauhinia purpurea_, etc. almost exactly as at Terrya Ghat. Between the foot of these really delightful hills and Ranee G.o.down, I fell in with one plant only, deserving of mention, _Dischedia_ _Rafflesiana_; this is worthy of notice, as our Indian Asclipiferous species have not hitherto been found, I believe north of Moulmain, nor otherwhere than that peninsula and the archipelago. From Ranee G.o.down we had the pleasure of walking nineteen miles to Gowahatty, which place we reached on the 23rd November.

All I can say in its favour is, that it is very cold in the mornings, always at this season cool; that it is very pretty, being situated on the Burrampooter, and surrounded with hills; that the women are good-looking, and the whole body of officers among the best. Of its botanical riches I can only say, that in a short afternoon's excursion we found _Cardiopterus harnulosa_, or rather saw it, and a species of Apocynea in fruit, probably the same with one I have from Tena.s.serim, and which is remarkable for the very many fleshy alae of its fruit. Gowahatty is particularly known as the station for _Cycas circinatis_, one fine specimen of which Captain Jenkins shewed us, and the height of which is perhaps 20 or 25 feet.

It was dichotomous, but only once. The rings formed by the scars of the foot stalks, as well as those of the fruit stalks, were most distinct on the two branches only, and gave them a very rich and less elated appearance. The examination of this specimen only strengthens me in my opinion derived chiefly from examination of those in the Botanic Gardens, that these rings which certainly afford the age of each branch, one being added of either sort every year, are not to be distinguished in the stem below its division. So that after all, _Brongniart_ is only half-wrong, although he is ignorant of the saving clause.

I may add, that we were on the hills about thirty-eight days, of which seven and a half were rainy, a proportion of 1 in 5.5.

_On the 2nd December_, our party left Gowahatty for Suddiya, on the morning of the 4th I proceeded in advance in Captain Matthie's express canoe for Tezpoor, which place I reached on the evening of the 6th, and at which I met with a most kind reception from Captain Matthie, Princ.i.p.al a.s.sistant to the Agent to the Governor General, and in Civil charge of the district of Durrung. Tezpoor possesses many advantages over Gowahatty, from which place it is about 120 miles distant, that is, following the river. It is situated on the banks of what was once a portion of the Burrampooter, but which is now nothing but a nullah, nearly dry at the present season. It is a completely new place, {12} Captain Matthie having arrived here about a year since, at which time it was a complete jungle. Some small hills run along the side of the nullah, on one of which Captain Matthie's house is situated. The clearings have already reached to a considerable extent, and there are two good roads for buggies. The great advantage it has over Gowahatty consists in its freedom from fogs, which evidently hug the Meekur hills on the opposite side of the Burrampooter, bearing about E.S.E. from Tezpoor. It is perhaps owing to the proximity of these hills that Nowgong until 10 A.M. appears completely enveloped in fog, while all round Tezpoor it is completely clear.

From this place the view of the Himalayas and of the intervening Bootan hills is very fine. The chain is of considerable extent, and presents three grand peaks, of which the most westerly one is the largest. They do not appear very distant, and are distinctly seen at this season at all times of the day. They are more soft and picturesque towards evening, at which time the different shades are better developed. The degrees of ascent of the Bootan hills are well shewn; the hills forming the lowest range being of no considerable height. It is at once obvious, that the ascent into Bootan from this place would occupy several days.

[Captain Mathie's Cutcherry: p12.jpg]

The view to the S. and S.S.W. is barren enough, and is completely flat; the country presenting nothing whatever but high gra.s.s, with an occasional peep of the river. That to the north is, owing to the Himalayas, very striking and picturesque.

Cultivation is carried on to a great extent about Tezpoor, and the district is populous, although few villages are to be seen, as they are all concealed among trees. Paddy is the princ.i.p.al grain cultivated, and this is carried on in low places, which appear on a casual examination to have been originally beds of rivers. Captain Matthie however tells me, that many of these have abrupt terminations and commencements, such may have been old jheels. Sursoo, opium, and sugar-cane are likewise cultivated, especially the former.

The whole land indeed, with the exception of the rice-places and the evidently old beds of the Burrampooter, are much more elevated than the land round Gowahatty. Both Tezpoor and Durrung are consequently less damp, and more healthy than the above-mentioned place. In fact, as a residence I would infinitely prefer Tezpoor to Gowahatty. With regard to the s.h.i.+kar, (shooting) both large and small game abound. Tigers are frequent as well as bears. Buffaloes are to be seen on the _churs_ (islands) in large herds. Pea-fowl and jungle-fowl abound, as well as water-fowl; floricans and partridges, both black and red, are by no means unfrequent.

_Upper a.s.sam_, _Jan_. _15th_.--We arrived at Kujoo, a rather large village of Singfos, and within half a day's journey of which the tea is found in its native state. This is the first Singfo village I have as yet seen, and is situated on the skirts of a plain of small extent, and covered to all appearance by extensive gra.s.s jungles, among which trees are interspersed. The houses are not numerous, but they are of large size, and are raised in the Burman fas.h.i.+on on piles from the ground.

Within one, many families are accommodated. The people themselves are fair, much like the Burmese, but still quite distinct. The male dress resembles the Burmese much; the female is more distinct, consisting chiefly of a sort of _gown_; and whilst tattooing is confined to the males in Burma, it here appears to be indulged in chiefly by the ladies; all the legs I saw during the day, being ornamented with rings of tattoo.

The men are a stout, rather fine race; free, easy, and independent, and great admirers of _grog_ in every form.

During our journey hither, and indeed en route from Kujoo Ghat, we pa.s.sed over a clay soil and through a dense jungle, comparable to which I have seen but little. Our direction has been nearly south from the above place. The jungle consisted chiefly of trees, here and there large patches of bamboo or tobacco occurring: there was but little underwood.

Among the trees the most gigantic was a species of Dipterocarpus, probably the same with that I have gathered on Pator hill, Mergui. We picked up likewise very large acorns with a depressed lamellated cap, and two fruits of Castanea, one probably the same with that from Myrung. But of all the vegetation, that of ferns is the most luxuriant and most varied.

_Jan_. _16th_.--This day we gave up to the examination of the tea in its native place. It occurs in a deep jungle to the south of the village, and at a distance of about three miles from it. Our route thither lay through first a rather extensive gra.s.s jungle, then through a deep jungle. We crossed the Deboru once on our route; it is a mean and insignificant stream.

Nothing particular presents itself in the jungle until you approach the tea, on which you come very suddenly. This plant is limited to a small extent, perhaps to 300 yards square, the princ.i.p.al direction being N. and S. It grows in a part of the jungle where the soil is light and dryish, and throughout which, _ravinules_ are frequent, due, Mac. tells me, to the effect of rain dropping from the heavy over-shadowing foliage on a light soil. In addition to this, small mounds occur about the roots of the large trees; but chiefly around bamboos, which are by no means unfrequent. This, however, is of common occurrence in all bamboo jungles. The underwood consists chiefly of Rubeaceae, a small Leea, Cyrthandraceae and Filices, _Polypodium arboreum_, _Angiopteris_ _ora.s.sipes_, and a large Asplenium are common. Among the arbuscles are a large leaved Tetranthera, a Myristica, Anonaceae, _Paederioidea_ _faetidissima_, foliis ternatis; stipulis apicee subulata, 3-fidis, etc.

And among the forest trees are a vast Dipterocarpus, the same we met with en route to Kujoo, _Dillenia speciosa_, etc. Piper and Chloranthus are likewise not uncommon. There is no peculiar feature connected with the existence of the tea in such a place, and in such a limited extent. We were fortunate enough to find it both in flower and fruit, owing to its site; its growth is tall and slender, and its crown at least that of the smaller, very small and ill developed. Large trees are rare; in fact, they have been all cut down by the Singfos, who are like all other natives excessively improvident. The largest we saw, and which Wallich felled, was, including the crown, 43 feet in length. Small plants are very common, although Bruce had already removed 30,000. Mac. thinks they grow chiefly on the margins of the ravinules or hollows. Their leaves were all large, of a very dark green, and varying from four to eight inches in length. The pith of the tree felled was excentric, the greater development taking place as usual on the southern side; it was two and a half inches N., three and a half S.; but about 10 feet above the base this excentricity was nearly doubled. The wood is very compact, and the tree apparently one of slow growth. The largest that Bruce has seen, and which he felled last year, was 29 cubits in length. The jungle was so thick that all general views as to its real extent, and the circ.u.mstances limiting it, must be very superficial. To the East the cessation of the lightness of the soil and of the hollows is very abrupt, and strongly influences the tea, only a few small straggles being visible in that direction. The jungle here was choked with gra.s.ses, and the large viscous Acanthaceae of which we have elsewhere en route seen such abundance. The tree evidently, even in its large state, owes little grat.i.tude to the sun, at least for direct rays, none of which I should think ever reach it. The Singfos however say, that it will only thrive in the shade. We halted after gathering a crop of leaves under a fine Dillenia, which was loaded with its fruit. Here the Singfos demonstrated the mode in which the tea is prepared among them. I must premise, however, that they use none but young leaves. They roasted or rather semi-roasted the leaves in a large iron vessel, which must be quite clean, stirring them up and rolling them in the hands during the roasting. When duly roasted, they expose them to the sun for three days; some to the dew alternately with the sun. It is then finally packed into bamboo chungas, into which it is tightly rammed. The ground on which it occurs is somewhat raised above the plain adjoining the village, as we pa.s.sed over two hillocks on our route to the tea, and the descent did not evidently counterbalance the ascent.

_Jan_. _17th_.--We arrived at Kujoo-doo this afternoon, having pa.s.sed through a great extent of jungle, which I am sorry to say presented the usual features. We crossed the Deboro once during our march, and several tributary streams which, as may be supposed, from the size of the _larger_ recipient river, are excessively insignificant. The soil throughout, a good part seemed to be of clay. The only plants of interest we found were two Bambusae in flower, and two species of Meniscium, and a _Polypodium venulis_ tertiariis simplicibus. A _Sarcopyramis Sonerilae_ was also found, but rather past flowering, and an Acrostichum? or Lomaria? We did not observe any ravinules or hollows, although mounds were by no means uncommon.

_Jan_. _18th_.--We proceeded in a Southerly direction, and after marching for nearly seven hours arrived at, and encamped on, a largish plain, on which paddy had been extensively cultivated. The whole route lay through a vast and deep jungle, the road running partly on the side of an old bund: part of our road was through very wet ground, part through rather dry elevated woods, bamboos of two species occurred abundantly. We saw several vast specimens of Dipterocarpus, one which had been cut down measured from the base to first branch 110 feet. Ferns still continue in excess. I gathered another species of _Sarcopyramis_; a _Goodyera_, _Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_ in flower, but rare; and an Apostasia not in flower.

_Jan 19th_.--We reached Negrigam early in the forenoon although we did not leave our ground before 10 A.M. The road to the village was pretty good. Negrigam is a largish village on the north bank of the Booree Dihing, which is here a considerable though not deep stream. This bank is at the site of the village very high. The population seemed to be considerable. To the south, large ranges of hills were visible, the first of which were close enough to admit of one's distinguis.h.i.+ng them to be wooded to the top. The inner ranges were lofty. We had some difficulty in ascertaining where the tea was located, the accounts being rather contradictory. At length we proceeded up the bed of a small river, Maumoo, which runs into the Booree Dihing close to the village: after wading along in the waters for two hours we arrived at a khet where we encamped. The direction being from Negrigam N.W. along the banks of this stream. The Pavia I first observed at Silam Mookh, was abundant, and some of the specimens were very fine, the largest was a handsome, very shady tree, of perhaps thirty feet high. The only plant of interest was _Gnetum scandens_. On a high land bank I gathered a species of Polytrichum, and one of Bartramia.

_January 20th_.--This morning we crossed the small streamlet Maumoo, ascended its rather high bank, and within a few yards from it came upon the tea: which as we advanced farther into the jungle increased in abundance; in fact within a very few yards, several plants might be observed. The plant was both in flower and ripe fruit, in one instance the seeds had germinated while attached to the parent shrub. No large trees were found, the generality being six or seven feet high; all above this height being straggling, slender, unhandsome shrubs: the leaves upon the whole were, I think, smaller than those of the Kujoo plants. With respect to the plants with which it is here a.s.sociated, I may observe that they were nearly the same with those of the Kujoo jungle, but here there was nevertheless one striking difference, that the jungle was by no means so dark in consequence of the smaller size of the jungle trees. The underwood consisted chiefly of ferns, among which _Polipodium unitum_ was very common, and a Lycopodium. Bamboos occurred here and there, although by no means so extensively as at Kujoo.

_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_, and a new _d.i.c.ksonia_, _D_. _Griffithiana_, Wall. were the plants of the greatest interest. With regard to the limits of the tea, it is by all accounts of no very great extent; but this is a point upon which it is difficult to say any thing decisive, in consequence of the thickness of the jungle. The s.p.a.ce on which we found it may be said to be an elbow of the land, nearly surrounded by the Manmoo river, on the opposite side of which, where we were encamped, it is reported not to grow. Within this s.p.a.ce the greater part consists of a gentle elevation or rather large mound. On this it is very abundant, as likewise along its sides, where the soil is looser, less sandy, and yellow (McClell.); along the base of this I think it is less common, and the soil is here more sandy, and much darker (McClell.) We partly ascertained that it was limited to the west, in which direction we soon lost sight of it. To the south and eastward of the elbow of land it is most common, but here it is, as I have said above, stopped by the river.

The greatest diameter of the stem of any plant that I saw in this place, might be two or three inches, certainly not more.